10 Tips for Creating Great Family Portraits

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With my background being in classic style studio portraiture (aka “boring”), and 25 years experience photographing portraits and weddings, I have a few tips up my sleeve for you. If you’ve never done a family or group portrait before don’t be intimidated. Be honest with the family and tell they you’re just learning, I bet they’ll be willing participants to help you out and they get some nice photos in exchange.

With a little planning, doing a family portrait should be fun for both you, and the family you’re photographing. Here are 10 quick tips to help you have a successful and fun photo session.

SUMMARY – 10 TIPS FOR BETTER FAMILY PORTRAITS

  1. Use a tripod when possible
  2. Shoot in Manual exposure mode
  3. Lock the focus or use manual focus
  4. Arrange people with heads staggered
  5. Allow kids to be kids and get goofy with them
  6. If it bends, bend it – how to help people pose
  7. Pose people to flatter them
  8. Lighting is key – get some in their eyes
  9. Expression is everything!
  10. Have a little fun with it and let go

Let’s take a look at each in more detail.

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#1 USE A TRIPOD WHENEVER POSSIBLE

“Ugh”, I already know what you’re thinking. A tripod cramps your style. It’s too heavy and cumbersome. Your style is more free flowing. That all may be true and in some cases (like photographing kids running or doing more documentary style photography) it may be better to shoot hand held.  However, just consider another side of the coin.

When being photographed  most, if not all, people are nervous. Yes nervous! Some are down right scared, and some would even go as far to say that they “hate it”. So it is part of your job to help your subjects feel more comfortable and relaxed. That can be hard to do when you’re also nervous, especially if you’re new to portraits. But there’s a big advantage of putting that camera on the tripod.  Two actually.

#1 – it automatically forces you to slow down. That’s a good thing. You can check your settings, review the composition, and exposure to make sure you’ve got everything right. All to often it’s easy to get carried away once you put the camera up to your eye and forget to check something only to see later you had the wrong White Balance, or ISO was 6400, or you accidentally shot Small JPG. Slow down, avoid an “oops”.

#2 – it allows you to get your eye away from the camera so you can actually make eye contact with your subjects. They are very real people and they feel even more uncomfortable staring straight into your lens than they do looking at you. You can make gestures to get kids attention, or make faces. But you’ll get way better expressions by interacting with them than you will looking through the viewfinder. Try it!

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#2 SHOOT IN MANUAL EXPOSURE MODE

Assuming that you are setting something up, choosing the time of day and the location carefully, you have control of all the elements. Meaning, once you get set up the exposure should not need to change. But if you put it in Aperture or Shutter priority, depending in the metering mode selected, the camera could choose a slightly different exposure for each frame. You do NOT want that! Consistency is very important.

Inconsistent exposures create more work in post processing, as you have to even them all out. It also can cause a slight color shift, increase noise (if underexposed) and other undesirable things. To keep your exposures consistent through the whole shoot, use Manual Mode. Just remember that each time you change the pose, location, etc, you need to check exposure again. I just fire off a quick test shot, review the histogram, adjust if necessary and continue.

#3 LOCK THE FOCUS

Just as you do not want the exposure to change from frame to frame, neither do you want the focus to be adjusted. Assuming you’ve taken #1 to heart and are using a tripod, you will not be moving. Likely if you’ve posed your group in a relatively static position, they will not be moving. Not much anyway. We are only concerned with moving closer to, or further away from the camera. So . . .

Set your camera up to do one of the following: use focus lock, back button focus, or use manual focus. With any of those options the focus will not change from shot to shot. If you use the shutter button to focus and someone moves a little bit so that the focus dot hits the background, you got another “oops”. If you aren’t sure how to do this, consult your camera manual.

Bonus tip: If your camera has video capabilities you have a neat way of doing manual focus. Turn on the Live View so you can see the image on your screen. Hit your “zoom” button (it may have a magnifying glass or a “+” sign on it) once or twice. The image on the screen will zoom in (your lens doesn’t) so you can see what is in focus which allows for much most precise manual focusing. Press zoom again to return to normal view and turn off Live View.

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#4 STAGGER THE HEADS

You may or may not have heard this one before, or perhaps you weren’t 100% what it meant. What you want to avoid is a boring straight line, row, or column of heads. Diagonal lines are more dynamic and add interest to an image, so try to do that with the people in your grouping.

Imagine there is a line drawn from each face to the next. Try and position them so that no head is directly on top of, or beside (same level) another. Make diagonal lines not totem poles. Use props to seat some people or bring some small folding stools. Have some people sit down, or stand up on something. Use what is naturally in the environment to pose them, or if you have nothing available just arrange them so the heights are staggered.

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#5 IF IT BENDS, BEND IT

This is a general rule when photographing any people and it’s a good one. People tend to stand stiff and rigid when you position them, so you need to get them to bend a few body parts to look more natural. Nobody naturally stands stiff as a board. Here are a few starters

  • get them to shift their weight to one foot and stick out one hip, away from the camera
  • get them to put a hand in a pocket, I usually recommend thumb out otherwise they have a tendancy to shove their hand to the bottom of the pocket also not looking natural
  • OR hook a finger on their belt or a belt loop
  • if they are sitting lean forward a bit and put weight on one hip
  • if standing against something have them cross one foot over the other, toe down
  • if sitting (males) put one knee up, foot flat on the ground (make sure they rotate so you aren’t looking straight into their crotch

You get the idea. The best way to get someone to do any of this is to do it yourself and have them mirror you. Face them, do the pose you want them to do, and have them mimic it exactly.

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Example of bending body parts. The girls did a much better job here than the guys but even the arms bent at the elbow helps. Some people are stiff and you may have  a challenge with them. Just do your best.

#6 LET KIDS BE KIDS

I’ve found that often parents will tell their kids “you need to be good and smile” before a photo session. For many kids that puts too much pressure on them to “perform”. I usually prepare my parents by getting them to tell their kids this instead:

We’re doing to the park to take some photos. It will be a lot of fun.

That’s it! No expectations other than fun. Then prepare yourself. Bring along props, get mom to bring one of their favourite toys or books. I usually have a hand puppet and bubbles in my camera bag along with my gear. If the kids don’t want to sit and smile don’t force them. Then them run around and be kids for a while and shoot that. Play with them, make it fun. Then they may cooperate and sit for a bit a few minutes later.

When I’m photographing kids I make a total idiot of myself. I make funny noises, I sing songs (I’m really bad but they don’t care), I make fish faces, I play peek-a-boo behind the camera.  I run back and forth to the camera with the puppet. I lie on the ground, I stick my butt out. Kids are the ones that have life the right way around, it’s us adults that ruin it. Let them be kids, let them have fun. Then be ready to capture it when it happens.

This was a game of peek-a-boo around the tree.

This was a game of peek-a-boo around the tree. Look at those genuine smiles! You can’t force those.

#7 POSE PEOPLE TO FLATTER THEM

Here’s the bottom line – if mom thinks she looks fat she isn’t going to like them no matter how great the lighting and expressions (see #8 and #9 below). So get this one right.

Be aware of people’s perceived “flaws” and work with them. A list of some quick tips.

  • If someone has a bigger bottom half, don’t pose them walking away from the camera using a wide angle lens.
  • For double chins take a slightly higher camera angle, above their eye level. Making them look up stretches it out and minimizes the chin/neck area
  • A bump on a nose will show up when they face one way and not the other (usually) study their face to find out which way to shoot them
  • When you have a couple that has a huge height difference get the man (usually the taller one) to stand with his feet further apart. That will make him slightly shorter, closing the gap a bit.
  • For really heavy people (or those overly self-conscious of their weight) use the lying down in the grass pose and pile the kids on top. Works great every time. Hides tummies, stretches out chins and makes the kids closer in size because it’s just faces.
The lying in the grass, pile on top pose. Great for families with small children.

The lying in the grass, pile on top pose. Great for families with small children. This family didn’t need the pose to correct anything, it’s also just fun having the kids jump on top and squish mom and dad.

#8 LIGHTING IS KING – GET SOME IN THEIR EYES

Light can make or break any photograph, portraits are no different. The very derivative of the word photography is “drawing with light”. The biggest thing you want to make sure you do for portraits is get light into your subjects’ eyes. There are many ways to do that and that’s a whole huge topic but there are a few things you can do to set yourself up to start off with good light.

  • Choose the time of day to do the portrait! Ideally late evening about an hour before dusk is the best time for portraits. Why because the sun is lower on the horizon and you don’t get the harsh overhead light you do at midday. It’s more directional and usually a bit diffused if there’s haze on the horizon.
  • If you can’t shoot at dusk, find some shade. Get your family out of the sun, BUT make sure you don’t get the background lit up. Bright areas in the background will draw attention away from the subjects. Look for areas in the shade of large buildings, or under large trees.
  • Avoid using an overcast day simply because the lighting is even and less harsh than bright sunlight. While it is true the light is softer and less harsh, the direction isn’t great. Overcast days give you direct overhead lighting and dark eyes, especially anyone with deep eye sockets.
  • Add some light using a reflector or a flash if need be. Again this is a whole other class on lighting but learn to know when you need more light on their faces. If you cannot see a catchlight (the lightsource reflected in their eyes) then there isn’t enough light in their faces.

Just as important as getting some light in the eyes is having it come from a good direction. We’ve established overhead isn’t good direction, neither is straight from camera. So turning on your built-in pop flash isn’t going to give you good light. Neither is sticking a speedlight on top. Light direct from the camera angle flattens the subject, that is not what you want. You want the light to come from the side more, 30-45 degrees from camera is a good starting point. To learn more about this read my article on the 6 Lighting Patterns Every Photographer Should Know.

This was done just before sunset. The sun is coming just over their shoulders on the left. I used a flash in an umbrella also to the left to add light to their faces, without it they'd be in shadow.

This was done just before sunset. The sun is coming just over their shoulders on the left, behind them. I used a flash, bounced into an umbrella also to the left to add light to their faces, without it they’d be in shadow.

#9 EXPRESSION IS EVERYTHING

So if lighting is king, getting the right expressions is everything! You can totally screw up the lighting, and the pose, but if you get them laughing or making “that” face – it’ll be a big hit!  So how do you do that?

See #1 first of all. Then look at #6. Being a photographer means that sometimes you have to also become a comedian, or a clown. Knowing the right thing to say or do to make people smile is mostly experience. Sometimes you’ll get tough adults too. The dad in the photo above by the brick wall pretty much has the same expression all the time. I’ve known this family and photographed them for 13 years, they’re friends too. So I know I can bug him a little bit or get out the ducky to have some fun at his expense.

If there are small children or babies involved make sure to get their attention. It even helps to have an assistant, tell them to bring Grandma along or a friend to help out. But what always happens is you get the kids all looking and smiling, and what are the parents doing? Looking at the kids!  Oops again! I always tell the parents, “no matter what keep looking at me as I make a total fool of myself, do NOT look at your child”.

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Baby laughing, everyone else followed instructions and looked at me, success!

#10 HAVE A LITLE FUN WITH IT

Last tip is to no take yourself so seriously. Create a few really whacky shots at the end of the session (or even in the middle if the energy seems to be fading). Tell them to do a group squish and really get them to squish. Often they will start laughing and as they pull apart you grab the shot. Do a pile on down in the grass. Ask them to jump in the air or make goofy faces (you make one too). It breaks the tension and lightens up the mood.

I volunteered my time at an event called Help Portrait last year that has photographers, make up artists and organizers giving their time to create portraits for people that otherwise couldn’t afford a professional one. They ended up sending most of the families to me, initially because I had the biggest area to do the group photo and later because the other photographers said I was the best with the kids.  To see some of my photos from that event go to Help Portrait, Edmonton  2012

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I was making a similar face!

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My off camera flash stopped working so this is direct from camera, not my first choice. But we were all tired and I thought this would be fun so we just went for it. Notice dad has a new expression!

BONUS TIP

Get the family to think about what they are going to wear. Some people disagree with my point of view on that, which is totally fine. But if you want to read more about it go to Clothing for Portraits.

Get out there and photograph some families and have fun!

Further Reading: What to wear to a family photo shoot

PIN IT: if you’re on Pinterest and want to save this Family Portrait Tips Tutorial – here’s an image just for you.

Read more from our Tips & Tutorials category

Darlene Hildebrandt is the Managing Editor of dPS. She is also an educator who teaches aspiring amateurs and hobbyists how to improve their skills through articles, online photography classes, and travel tours. Get her free ebook 10 Photography Challenges to help you take better pictures or join a photo tour to some exotic places.

  • You need all participants to place tighter in the frame.
    Often a family photo majority of families are not close to each other. As the majority of professionals works “American personal space” and it becomes a problem. But such work should show the family, then the pictures people should be closer to each other. The task of the photographer take a picture by following this important requirement. It is advisable that people rested on the shoulders of each other. You can try to place people at the angle to present effect: shoulders overlap. Important role played by the age of people in the photo. Grandma should sit on a chair.

  • Vera Kruis

    These tips are really good. Can’t wait to use them. Thanks for sharing.

Some Older Comments

  • kavi September 4, 2013 02:52 pm

    Thank you for the great ideas.

  • Darlene Hildebrandt September 2, 2013 05:09 am

    @Leslie yes it is certainly easier to get people at ease outdoors without the studio lights and all the stuff that goes with it that can be intimidating. Try putting on some soft music that's relaxing, or some funky music to get people a bit more relaxed. The best way to get people to pose more easily is to talk to them! It's that simple. Stop focusing on the technical stuff, do that before they get in front of the camera. Then interact and talk to them. Ask them about them, their day, etc. It's also easier to show people how to pose by doing it first in their place, then have them repeat it. Hope that helps.

    @Joan and @Jon thanks!

  • Jon August 31, 2013 09:10 pm

    The tips about light are great thanks. Always trying to improve those lasting memories of my two young boys.

  • Joan August 31, 2013 02:25 am

    LOVE the bonus tip regarding locking the focus!

  • Leslie August 31, 2013 01:58 am

    Thank you so much for sharing your advice! So what do you think - is it easier to pose people outside, with gorgeous backgrounds and the natural terrain/props to help you create interesting portraits, or is it easier in a studio? My business partner and I will be taking family portraits for a fundraiser (indoors, on-location) and it we will be using a backdrop. I much prefer taking photos outdoors because I feel it is easier to put people at ease and there is the option to change things up a little more. I am afraid these mini-session portraits will be boring. I'd love to hear some studio posing tips geared toward family photos if anyone is willing to share them.

  • Darlene August 26, 2013 12:07 pm

    @Richard thanks so much, have fun with it the kids love doing that.

    @chetan glad to have helped!

  • Chetan G August 23, 2013 11:51 pm

    HI Darlene, a very nice article. This will really help me in the family shots or even couple shots. Tripod thing is really true, you can connect more.

  • Richard Spears August 23, 2013 11:02 pm

    Darlene, Great article. I love the idea of letting the kids pile on top of the parents... I'm going to use that on my next family portrait session!! These are really good ideas. Well written too.

  • Darlene August 23, 2013 11:39 am

    @Norm fair enough re: closeness. Sure the mom on the bottom of the pile could possible use a little dodge on the face but it's not objectionable to me and it's a fun image not a main one so I wasn't too picky on it.

    Pets for sure get included when possible. I just couldn't find any recent examples. Thanks for mentioning that.

  • Darlene Hildebrandt August 23, 2013 09:30 am

    @Kia wow thanks I'm flattered! good luck with your shoot

  • Kia Groat August 23, 2013 09:21 am

    This was honestly the best advice I have read on DPS! Thank you. I'm just about to shoot a 'boring' studio maternity shoot in an hour, I might see if they would like to go to the park across the road too! :-)

  • Greg August 23, 2013 09:03 am

    Great Article - Thanks!

  • Norm Levin August 23, 2013 08:45 am

    @Darlene You have developed a portrait style that works well for you and your clients. If you check out my website, you'll see that we're not all that different... only a matter of degree of "closeness". More power to you if your clients buy 20x30 prints or larger. Mine do not, so having their faces a little more prominent in the frame is important.

    Your portraits are beautifully lit and fortunately don't need much retouching. The only exception I see in your examples is the family piled on top of each other on the ground where the mom appears to be in the shadow a bit more than I'd prefer. She could use a quick swipe of the dodge tool, IMHO. I do tend to spend too much time in post production working to "perfect" each file, but that's me.

    My main light is almost always ambient, shooting late in the day as you do. I try to use backlighting so that the flash fills up the faces to reveal detail and character. That's my preferred style. I do agree that having an off camera light to one side can create some attractive shading. I'll do that when the situation calls for it.

    One more thing that wasn't mentioned, is that most of my clients bring their dog to the session! And most of the time that additional "family member" enhances the image. As long as said dog follows commands, it's been a easy challenge to get him to pay attention to the camera.

    Here's some examples so you can see for yourself:

    [eimg url='http://www.naturalportraitsandevents.com/Portraits/Portraits/3273171_vNPqi#!i=2428731720&k=S5bGj9g' title='3273171_vNPqi#!i=2428731720&k=S5bGj9g']

    http://www.naturalportraitsandevents.com/Portraits/Portraits/3273171_vNPqi#!i=2581315948&k=dgVv6tr

    http://www.naturalportraitsandevents.com/Portraits/Portraits/3273171_vNPqi#!i=2295396788&k=B5TPbDR

    http://www.naturalportraitsandevents.com/Portraits/Portraits/3273171_vNPqi#!i=2217419265&k=bsh52B2

  • Darlene Hildebrandt August 23, 2013 08:22 am

    @gary no that won't do the same thing. Two reasons:

    #1 - the umbrella is to make the light spread out over a larger area which softens it. There is a misconception that just diffusing your light with one of those plastic spheres will make it softer - not true. If you are bouncing indoors off the ceiling or a wall then yes it will - but outdoors it will not make the light any softer. Light quality is related to the size of the light source - nothing else.

    #2 - it will still be coming straight from camera so will flatten out the subject. The angle of light from that direction adds no texture to the people or their face, and it removes all texture. Perhaps if you are doing a glamour or fashion shoot that would work but for most portraits you want the light from the side to create shadows, which create texture and lighting patterns.

    Read this article I wrote on lighting patterns, perhaps it will help.
    https://digital-photography-school.com/6-portrait-lighting-patterns-every-photographer-should-know

    An umbrella and stand are not expensive. You just need a way to fire your flash off camera. If you have a camera and flash that "speak" to each other you don't need anything else. If not look into one of the Yongnuo remote flash trigger sets (less than $100). Honestly for under $150 you can probably get everything I just mentioned.

  • Bo Insogna August 23, 2013 04:08 am

    fantastic post and tips! A must read for any family photographer!

  • Gary August 23, 2013 03:41 am

    Darlene,

    First, great article with some very useful advice! This is an area of photography that I want to get more into. I don't have an umbrella with a flash for side lighting and wondering if a Lightsphere cloud diffuser mounted on my Speedlite would work as a "fill" flash for this type of photography since it's not directly pointed at the subject.

    Thanks!

    Gary

  • Darlene August 23, 2013 03:07 am

    @Jon yes all except the family in brown on the grass were public parks and places. I've never had an issue. Most of my portraits are done late evening and there tend to be less passers-by at that time of day.

  • Darlene August 23, 2013 03:05 am

    @Norm in regards to flash I didn't say don't use fill flash, I recommended not using it ON camera. Getting your flash off camera will give you more directional light, from camera will flatten out your subjects.

    If you are shooting under a large tree you shouldn't be getting dark eyes. I look for exactly that type of location to put people under a large branch. When you block the overhead light it IS darker for sure but the direction of light changes to coming from the front instead of overhead, so you don't get dark eyes. You may just need more exposure overall but the quality of light should be there.

    I try and avoid having to add light or dodge in LR when possible. If I'm doing many shots of a group as you mentioned you can't always copy and paste the settings from one to all of them as the heads aren't in exactly the same spots. So you end up having to dodge on every single image and causing yourself a lot more work in post production. That's why if my faces are dark I add a flash (bounced into an umbrella or bounced off a big reflector) off to one side to add light into their eyes. Of the images in the article, NONE of the faces have been dodged.

    Yes touching and connecting - great tip I do that also. Not every family is touchy feely but most will rest a hand on each other willingly.

    Lens - I use the 70-200 for individuals and couples but it's not always practical for groups. The further away you get the harder it is to relate and even talk to them, you end up shouting at them or running back and forth a lot. If you have the space to do so great. In the case of a few of these I'd have been off the cliff LOL!

    As far as being too far away from the subjects - that's well - subjective. I agree you're not doing a landscape photo but we go to great lengths to select the location so let's see some of it. I also tend to sell large wall portraits and face size is dependent on print size. So once you make these into a 24x30 or so the face sizes are quite good. I just took another look and of all the images the only one that's maybe a bit looser cropped is the family in black sitting on the rock (3 young kids). Other than that I wouldn't crop any of them any closer no matter what print size.

    You need to give space around them and allow for some composition and negative space otherwise they'll feel crowded. The family all in purples tones feels a bit too cramped for me actually. As for it being about the faces - for me it is and it isn't. If you want a head shot, do that. This is a family "portrait" which means "portrayal" - not what your face looks like. For me showing more of the scene that they chose around them it gives more of a sense of who they are as a family. A portrait for me isn't about what they look like, it should give insight into their personality too.

  • Jon Searle August 23, 2013 02:33 am

    Some great ideas & lovely images shared Darlene, thank you. Out of interest, were the locations fully public places or did you have control of passers by? I have had some mixed experiences where subjects have felt a little self conscious with random people stopping to see whats going on, especially in cities..

    Thanks also for the what to wear ideas - it's amazing how much difference a quick word can make before the shoot to eliminate crazy pattern clashes and colour nightmares!

    Thanks again
    Jon

  • Norm Levin August 23, 2013 02:25 am

    Excellent points, especially about using a tripod. The main benefit is that you'll need taking many nearly identical photos in order to get "the one" where everybody in the group is looking their best. Unless you've done this before, you'd be surprised how many shots it can take. Somebody's always looking away, blinking, has their head/hands etc. in a less than ideal position. Once everything is all set up as Darlene says, just shoot as many shots as you can in a very short amount of time.

    She advises against using a Speedlight mounted on the camera. While this may be her preference, and often for good reason, it really depends on your location's light. I tend to shoot in open shade under a large tree where it can get pretty dark. Shadows under the eyes, nose and chin can be eliminated with a slight flash fill. In post processing, I'll using Lightroom's dodge tool to add more light to faces, if necessary. Even a half-stop boost will make your subjects stand out.

    In posing families, I ask them to touch each other's shoulders, arms, waists, depending on the overall pose and composition. This not only gives them something (natural) to do with their hands, but creates a warmer, more loving appearing group.

    I try to use a longer focal length, often a 70-200 zoom. This does two things: let's me show the faces better and 2) blurs the background light (bokeh) into more pleasing, less distracting patterns.

    My only other comment on the author's examples, which are overall quite beautiful, is that to my taste she is a little to far away from her subjects. These are family portraits, not landscapes, so ideally, the faces should be larger and more prominent. In the end it's all about the faces.

  • Darlene August 22, 2013 01:58 am

    @William yes I used the 24-105mm mostly for the family groups. When I do individual or couple photos I often use my 85mm f1.8. One thing I didn't mention though is to make sure you use a small enough aperture to get the whole group in focus. Most of these were at f/5.6 or f/8

    @clyde, Ray, daniel - thanks!

    @Debra did you go over to the other article on clothing?

  • Daniel F. August 21, 2013 12:51 am

    Thanks for the tips! This is one of the most useful articles I've read, great ideas!

  • Ray August 21, 2013 12:35 am

    Darlene, as always, great article! Love the way you "teach" in your writing. #7 was very helpful and funny/ Thanks again!

  • Debra Kasowski August 20, 2013 03:24 pm

    Great tips - thank you! Also considering what to wear for an extended family photo - large group.

  • clyde corley August 20, 2013 10:58 am

    Great concise information, things a forgot or haven't thought of. One of the better collection of tips I've encountered.

    Thsnk You

  • William Marshall August 20, 2013 07:25 am

    Great article! What type of lens would you suggest? I was thinking something like a 24-70 or along those lines. Something that wouldn't put you too far from the family.

  • Darlene August 20, 2013 06:59 am

    Which issues exactly? Anything I can help with specifically?

  • Pocatello Photography, Cramer Imaging August 20, 2013 06:54 am

    This is some good advice. I have a fundraiser portrait session coming up this week. You have addressed some of the issues I am facing with these clients. Thanks for sharing.

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