How to Capture Motion Blur in Photography
Capturing movement in images is something that many photographers only think to do when they are photographing sports or other fast moving subjects.
While there is an obvious opportunity in sports photography to emphasize the movement of participants – almost every type of photography can benefit from the emphasis of movement in a shot – even when the movement is very small, slow and/or subtle.
Last week I featured 15 images that capture movement with creative blur – today I want to take a few moments to suggest some tips on how to do it.
Tips for capturing movement:
1. Slow Down Your Shutter Speed
The reason for movement blur is simply that the amount of time that the shutter of a camera is open is long enough to allow your camera’s image sensor to ’see’ the movement of your subject.
So the number one tip in capturing movement in an image is to select a longer shutter speed.
If your shutter speed is fast (eg 1/4000th of a second) it’s not going to see much movement (unless the the subject is moving mighty fast) while if you select a longer shutter speed (eg 5 seconds) you don’t need your subject to move very much at all before you start to see blur.
How long should your shutter speed be? – Of course the speed of your subject comes into play. A moving snail and a moving racing car will give you very different results at the same shutter speed.
The other factor that comes into play in determining shutter speed is how much light there is in the scene you are photographing. A longer shutter speed lets more light into your camera and runs the risk of blowing out or overexposing your shot. We’ll cover some ways to let less light in and give you the option to have longer shutter speeds below.
So how long should your shutter speed be to get movement blur in your shot? There is no ‘answer’ for this question as it will obviously vary a lot depending upon the speed of your subject, how much blur you want to capture and how well lit the subject is. The key is to experiment (something that a digital camera is ideal for as you can take as many shots as you like without it costing you anything).
2. Secure Your Camera
There are two ways to get a feeling of movement in your images – have your subject move or have your camera move (or both). In the majority of cases that we featured in last week’s post it was the subject that was moving.
In this type of shot you need to do everything that you can to keep your camera perfectly still or in addition to the blur from the subject you’ll find that the whole frame looks like it’s moving as a result of using a longer shutter speed. Whether it be by using a tripod or have your camera sitting on some other still object (consider a shutter release mechanism or using the self timer) you’ll want to ensure that camera is perfectly still.
3. Shutter Priority Mode
One of the most important settings in photographing an image which emphasizes movement is the shutter speed (as outlined above). Even small changes in shutter speed will have a big impact upon your shot – so you want to shoot in a mode that gives you full control over it.
This means either switching your camera into full Manual Mode or Shutter Priority Mode. Shutter Priority Mode is a mode that allows you to set your shutter speed and where the camera chooses other settings (like Aperture) to ensure the shot is well exposed. It’s a very handy mode to play with as it ensures you get the movement effect that you’re after but also generally well exposed shots.
The other option is to go with Manual mode if you feel more confident in getting the aperture/shutterspeed balance right.
How to Compensate for Long Shutter Speeds When there is too Much Light
I mentioned above that one of the effects of using longer exposure times (slow shutter speeds) is that more light will get into your camera. Unless you compensate for this in some way this will lead to over exposed shots.
Below I’ll suggest three main methods for making this compensation (note – a forth method is simply to wait for the light to change (ie for it to get darker). This is why many shots that incorporate blur are taken at night or at dawn/dusk):
1. Small Apertures
So how do you cut down the amount of light that gets into your camera to help compensate for a longer shutter speed? How about changing the size of the hole that the light comes in through. This is called adjusting your camera’s Aperture.
If you shoot in shutter priority mode the camera will do this automatically for you – but if you’re in manual mode you’ll need to decrease your Aperture in a proportional amount to the amount that you lengthen the shutter speed.
Luckily this isn’t as hard as you might think because shutter speed and aperture settings are organized in ’stops’. As you decrease shutter speed by a ’stop’ you double the amount of time the shutter is open (eg – from 1/250 to 1/125). The same is true with Aperture settings – as you decrease the Aperture by one stop you decrease the size of the shutter opening by 50%. This is great because an adjustment of 1 stop in one means that you just need to adjust the other by 1 stop too and you’ll still get good exposure.
2. Decrease Your ISO
Another way to compensate for the extra light that a longer shutter speed lets into your camera is to adjust the ISO setting of your camera. ISO impacts the sensitivity of your digital camera’s image sensor. A higher number will make it more sensitive to light and a lower number will make the sensor less sensitive. Choose a low number and you’ll find yourself able to choose longer shutter speeds.
3. Try a Neutral Density Filter
These filters cut down the light passing through your lens and into your camera which in turn allows you to use a slower shutter speed.
It is sort of like putting sunglasses on your camera (in fact some people actually have been known to use sunglasses when they didn’t have an ND filter handy).
For instance, if you’re shooting a landscape in a brightly lit situation but want a shutter speed of a second or more you could well end up with a very over exposed image. A ND filter can be very helpful in slowing the shutter speed down enough to still get a well balanced shot.
It is the use of ND filters that enabled some of the shots in our previous post to get a lot of motion blur while being taken in daylight.
Another type of filter that can have a similar impact is a polarizing filter. Keep in mind however that polarizers not only cut out some light but they can impact the look of your image in other ways (ie cut out reflection and even change the color of a sky – this may or may not be the look you’re after).
Two More Technique to Try – one more technique to experiment if you’re wanting to capture images with motion blur is to experiment with Slow Sync Flash. This combines longer shutter speeds with the use of a flash so that elements in the shot are frozen still while others are blurry. Read more about Slow Sync Flash. Another technique worth trying out is panning – moving your camera along with a moving subject so that they come out nicely in focus but the background blurs.







56 Responses to “How to Capture Motion Blur in Photography” - Add Yours
August 30th, 2007 at 2:46 am
Fantastic! I just experimented with motion blur last weekend and was mostly unhappy with the results! This comes at a perfect time for me! ;-) Thanks!
August 30th, 2007 at 5:05 am
Hi, Darren. Do you want to publish your articles under any Creative Commons license? I want to translate some articles in russian.
August 30th, 2007 at 5:37 am
Really cool snaps. I’ll have to try these out soon ^_^
August 30th, 2007 at 7:13 am
I’ve often used the sunglasses trick, especially when on a boat in the middle of the ocean. Lots of people don’t know what their camera can do, and learned some new techniques that trip. How about the sensor “light sensitivity” level? It sometimes appears as “EV” settings (plus or minus). Does adjusting that down help with getting motion blur without overexposing?
August 30th, 2007 at 7:29 am
Svetlyak 40wt – not at this point – we will do some translation versions at some point but not yet. Thanks for the offer though.
August 30th, 2007 at 8:21 pm
Nice article. I tried last week something on Times square. But it was in the middle of the day. This caused overexposure. I Think at least an ND filter was realy needed.
August 30th, 2007 at 9:36 pm
I think theres one very important rule for capturing motion blur that hasn’t been mentioned…
Focus on the subjects eyes.
If your trying to capture movement, often the thing that can separate it from an average shot to a fantastic shot is capturing the eyes in focus. For eg. My favorite ‘crowd’ shot has a protest marching by (with motion blur), and a police man in the middle with eyes perfectly still.
Likewise, heres one I captured a week or so ago… the face being in focus makes the photo ‘just work’ despite everything else moving. http://flickr.com/photos/heenan/1197094606/
Motion blur is very powerful for conveying atmosphere, but don’t loose sight of some of the other tips on this site at the same time :-)
August 31st, 2007 at 11:37 am
Hi Klew I am interested in the sun glasses trick. Can you post on here so I can try it too. thanks
September 1st, 2007 at 3:51 pm
You can also move the camera to freeze (mostly) a moving subject while blurring the surroundings.
September 1st, 2007 at 11:59 pm
Great article on a really fun subject. You can get some really great shots of moving traffic at night, here’s my efforts.. http://www.flickr.com/photos/50277096@N00/268109264/
Seen at http://www.photographyvoter.com
September 3rd, 2007 at 12:56 am
human mind needs something different. to catch shots normally is a general practice. but panning, blur etc does a different approach and look and above all experimentation becomes the theme. thank u for introducing to a new approach which is more exciting than normal photo-taking.
September 4th, 2007 at 2:40 am
There some great examples of motion blur pics taken by moving the camera rather than the subject in the “cameratoss” group on Flickr – literally taken by throwing the camera!: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tags/cameratoss
September 6th, 2007 at 4:48 am
i love photography
December 6th, 2007 at 6:19 am
this was good review.. now i need to try it again
October 18th, 2008 at 5:59 am
hi, i want to manually change the settings of my speed shutter, but I don’t know how, I’m using sony dsc t50, can you show me how to modify it? I want to capture fast movements like games in badminton…
thank you so much.
October 23rd, 2008 at 11:38 am
well i have to say that i am new to this camera buisness, but i have a question, i am looking to purchase a video camera, i want to be able to slow things down, (slomo) after i shoot them, but i also want to do this shutter thing, im sure i cant do both on one thing but what is a good camera or good advice to buy. i dont want something super high speed to slow down bullets, i would like it to still be practical… any advice would help, email me at eat_it_its_good_for_you@hotmail.com … thanks
January 5th, 2009 at 7:52 am
i would like to know who wrote this blog so i could cite it correctly for my paper :)
January 5th, 2009 at 10:00 am
I did Nancy – Darren Rowse is my name.
January 6th, 2009 at 9:10 am
omg! thank you so much!!
this paper is huge and its due tomorrow
thanxs!
January 22nd, 2009 at 3:22 am
Question: I have been shooting my son’s basketball games inside the Gymnasium. I’ve been shooting with a Nikon 70 – 200 mm, 2.8. The problem is that all my action shots are blurred, I want the players to be in focus. Also, I have been dealing with the yellow tint that is in all the photos. I have been working with the white balance in that area. Could you help by telling me how to achieve a more clear action shot where the players are NOT blurred.
I appreciate any advise,
Maureen
January 24th, 2009 at 6:38 am
Motion photography has always interested me. I think after reading this I’ll experiment with this some between work.
January 24th, 2009 at 10:28 pm
Since my photograph is identified on Flickr as “all rights reserved” and not a CC license, don’t you think it might have been nice if you had asked me before using my photo on your site? I thought that was the polite thing to do.
January 25th, 2009 at 2:30 am
markal – I’m sure Darren will have an explanation, I know for a fact he only ever uses photos that are CC – I’ll alert him to your post, please accept my apologies.
Sime
February 13th, 2009 at 1:12 am
it was a great post….and this paper really help me when i took some photos in my schools’s basketball competion,,,thx..
March 1st, 2009 at 3:26 am
Your tips have helped me tremendously, I’ve learned more one on one, than I did when I took photojournalism. They were not in depth enough with some of this stuff. Thank you very much know it is very appreciated!!
Tammy <3 :-)
March 26th, 2009 at 10:37 am
Markal – as I said in my email to you I’ve removed the image and apologize. I don’t know how it happened as we work hard to keep images used on this site CC licensed. The process we use to get images from Flickr stops us from using all rights reserved images – so I’m confused how this happened.
Any chance you changed your licence sine this was originally published in 2007? That’s the only explanation I can think of.
May 19th, 2009 at 7:18 am
i specialise in dance movement, always looking for new ideas and tips,heres a few of my favourites.cheers martyn
http://www.nomadphoto.co.uk/30.09.08/slides/DSC_3978r.html
http://www.nomadphoto.co.uk/05.03.08/slides/DSC_4705r.html
http://www.nomadphoto.co.uk/26.11.07/slides/El%20Matador.html
August 26th, 2009 at 1:26 am
This is just AWESOME. I’ve been looking for a good resource to learn about different techniques etc. I’m completely new to anything other than simply point-shoot photography…I’ve tried other things before but never had success and really was discouraged. This site is exactly what I’ve been looking for. GREAT STUFF! Thanks!
September 9th, 2009 at 8:20 pm
Check my picture, shot during a race event… 600CC bike on its full speed…
From Road Race (Processed)
October 18th, 2009 at 7:57 am
Great tips I knew all them before but you have drilled them further into my brain and given me a reminder to try some motion blur photography!
October 18th, 2009 at 11:11 pm
Here are some that I did a while ago.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/streetghost/3068505344/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/streetghost/3243145200/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/streetghost/2710481615/
October 18th, 2009 at 11:13 pm
@martyn
Beautiful work.
October 18th, 2009 at 11:49 pm
thanks for your comments, heres a couple more
http://www.nomadphoto.co.uk/mexican%20dance/slides/DSC_7693r.html
http://www.nomadphoto.co.uk/02.04.09/slides/DSC_6886r.html
i left the exif data in to show the camera settings,cheers martyn
October 19th, 2009 at 8:43 am
All great ideas. Getting a crisp image when trying to capture motion blur can be extremely difficult. Make sure you have a big memory card and a lot of time to practice.
October 19th, 2009 at 8:58 am
I’ve subscribed to a few photograghy news letters and Digital Photograghy School (Darren Rowse) is the only one I still read and do research from as well as learn any thing from, thank you! I can spend as much time as I want reading,researching and learning without anything or one trying to sell me anything! Wow! I have to actually search for that, thank you. Don’t ever stop, the world of photograghy would suffer.
You are a child of the universe,no less than the trees and the stars and you compliment that greatly…
Peace be with You brother
Rev. Joe
Caretakers of the Holy Garden
October 20th, 2009 at 8:03 am
Another great technique for creative blur is to use a zoom lens and rotate in or out during exposure. I’ve done quite a few of these hand held with very cool results. As with other blurring techniques shutter speed needs to be slowed down but it’s surprising how even at 1/2 a second you can create dramatic effects from mundane subjects like a bush. I now take my ND filters everywhere. Took these yesterday. No post processing…right off the card. Sony Alpha 700 with a 24-250 tele. x6nd with a polarizer on top because it was bright out. In other words the light was bad. Shutter speeds were all over the place. Fun to play with. http://www.pb-ranch.com/blur.
October 20th, 2009 at 12:37 pm
My motion blur example of the marathon runners
http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=run&w=8886642%40N02&m=tags
October 23rd, 2009 at 2:05 am
Thanks Darren for another useful post! I had lots of fun trying to capture motion while in Paris last year.
Here are my two favorite shots:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drummp2/2944762304/in/set-72157612434970409/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drummp2/2943899137/in/set-72157612434970409/
October 23rd, 2009 at 2:11 am
As passed on to me by Harry Nowell, there are 3 types of motion: blur, frozen and implied. You’ve mostly got blur here and there is several other ways to capture: 1. move the camera either to introduce the motion or to pan the subject, 2. zoom in/out.
Even on a very sunlit day, setting the camera at 1/30 or 1/15 of a second and moving the camera can introduce nice blur without over exposure. 1/3 of a second takes even less motion of the camera.
Panning and long exposure example:


Zoom example:
quick panning at noon:
October 23rd, 2009 at 2:12 am
Hmm, that didn’t work as planned. Right click on each image to go to the flickr page or flickr.com/hagenhohn/
October 23rd, 2009 at 3:39 am
I think that I will start playing with the long exposure a little, having recently bagged a triumph, (for me) at our local Carnival in Dunmow, Essex.
Thanks again for the great tips
Michael
October 23rd, 2009 at 7:39 am
right click didnt work for me hagen maybe just post the complete link to each pic would be good , that way i can just right click and open in new tab.cheers nomad
October 23rd, 2009 at 1:13 pm
Thanks Darren for your tips!!! :)
October 23rd, 2009 at 6:20 pm
Any tips for creating motion blur using a compact digital with no aperture or shutter speed priorities, only pre-defined scene settings, ISO changing and EV compensation?
Cheers, Iain
October 23rd, 2009 at 10:21 pm
Mot sure if this is the right place, but how does one reduce the size of a photo that was taken. I want to use it as a background on my desktop, but it way to large . New to digital. Thanks to all.
October 23rd, 2009 at 10:54 pm
Trying again (slow learner), thanks for the request Martyn.
Panning and long exposure example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hagenhohn/4034357083/
Zoom example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hagenhohn/4034366457/
quick panning at noon: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hagenhohn/4035134570/
I’ve also subsequently added several day-time car images from Gatineau Park
zoom example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hagenhohn/4035384090/
panning: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hagenhohn/4035386854/
panning: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hagenhohn/4035386976/
The last two are good examples of differences in speed. Both were at the same car speed: 30km/h and both with the same camera settings (f16, 1/30 sec). However since the Maserati (the second shot) was another car length or so closer, I’m panning much faster, giving more apparent “speed”
Barryl – in whatever program you are using, look for the command “crop”. Hopefully that tidbit helps.
Cheers,
hagen
October 24th, 2009 at 1:10 am
iain you can add blur after the event with things like photoshop,
this pic was formed using radial blur tool in photoshop
http://www.fotothing.com/martynb/photo/2f798aaea5151255cff79e61ecfd70f9/
barryl you need a prog like photoshop to reduce the size (i think something like 1280 x 1024 pixels is max but you can as little as 800 x 600), thinks like picassa and gimp are free if you dont have photoshop,
another easy way to resize is upload your pic to photobucket, it gives you the option to resize as you upload it and also has software that allows you to alter your pics once uploaded, then its just a question of right click and save back to your comp . hope this helps,.cheers martyn
October 24th, 2009 at 1:36 am
Great tips! ND filters are great but it always bugged me why they are so expensive :)
Here are 2 of my motion blur photography shots I’d like to share with you:
Main subject – not moving – the movement is all in the background (passing by bus):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/piotr_golebiowski/3976944655/
Example of the “pan and zoom” technique – picture shot from a moving vehicle, the main subject is panned (followed by with the lens) and the lens zoomed in all at the same time:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/piotr_golebiowski/3968293317/
Take care!
October 25th, 2009 at 8:12 pm
Cheers Martin!
October 25th, 2009 at 10:02 pm
no probs, i am not a great flickr fan but i did enjoy the master of the decisive moment getting a real slating.
the comments are well worth reading.cheers martyn
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrerabelo/70458366
October 26th, 2009 at 8:51 pm
hi ..you r very helpful to me…always encouraging ,your tips and all .thank you
November 1st, 2009 at 7:17 am
Hi Darren,
Your articles are really helpful and practicable for new comers like me. It really ecourages people like me as your instructions and explanations are in layman style. Thanks to the patience of the ‘real pro’ as well. Again, thanks Darren :)
November 19th, 2009 at 6:42 pm
Everything just clicked into place with this article, i found it so useful, now just want to go try it all out. Thanks!
December 17th, 2009 at 8:10 pm
January 3rd, 2010 at 4:01 pm
so, what camera is best for fast shutter speed camera with a really good picture quality!?
January 3rd, 2010 at 10:09 pm
lil miss the quality of camera doesnt matter so much for fast shutter speeds, although a dlsr should give you better picture quality over a point and shoot, the size of the sensor can make a huge difference when blurring the background in camera, for instance using a point and shoot at F2.8 aperture would hardly blur the background but on a dlsr with bigger sensor it is easy to do,
some point and shoots allow you to use manual settings, so that means the shot above is possible with one, i would say something like F16,10 sec exposure, iso 100 would give similar results,
lastly the shutter speed exposure is controlled by light when on auto, if its a dark day the shutter speed will be slower to get correct exposure (by going slower it allows more light to access the sensor), the only two ways to get the shutter to go faster is either by upping the iso (the higher the iso the bigger the risk of noise on your pics) ,the other way is lowering the aperture (F stop), the risk from this that the depth of field (bit thats in sharp focus) becomes narrower when you lower the F stop,
hope that helps a bit, cheers martyn
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