10 Tips For Great Telephoto Photography
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| Canon 1Ds Mark II + 600mm f/4 Super Telephoto Lens |
One of the most exciting aspects of photography is working with Telephoto and Super Telephoto lenses. While out of the price range for most to buy, this lens family is easily accessible through lens rental services online or through local camera stores. Telephoto and super telephoto lenses enable photographers to explore a variety of subjects in new ways. Such lenses are often used in wildlife photography, but they can be used for a variety of subjects. Here are 10 tips and ideas for great telephoto photography:
1. Use A Tripod For Sharp Photos
By and large the vast majority of subjects photographed with telephoto and super telephoto lenses need to be tack sharp. Due to the narrow field of view and magnification of telephoto lenses ever so slight movements have an amplified impact diminishing image sharpness. The first thing you can do to ensure that you’ll capture sharp images is to use a tripod and a tripod head that can support the weight of your lens & camera. While this isn’t the only step to take to ensure sharp photos it is the essential first step. Using a tripod or even a monopod will also save your back and arms from unnecessary pain and fatigue.
2. Use A Shutter Release
Any movement is amplified when looking through the view finder of a camera using a telephoto lens. The simple act of pressing the shutter on your camera will cause even a tripod mounted camera and lens to shake when photographing a distant subject. To minimize camera shake use a shutter release. Quite simply a shutter release is a shutter release button on an extension cord. Minimizing movement of your camera and lens while mounted on a tripod will reduce unintended bluring of your photo.
Bonus Tip:
If your camera has a Mirror Lock-up function this in addition to the use of a shutter release will remove much of the mechanical vibration your camera itself can create. The mirror in the camera box of your dSLR allows you to see from the viewfinder out your lens. When you trigger the shutter the mirror will flip up out of the way so that light coming through your lens hits the sensor or film in your camera body. Mirror Lock-up will prompt you to trigger the shutter twice, first to move the mirror into a ready position and second to open the shutter. After the first trigger of the shutter you should wait 2-5 seconds for the internal mechanics of your camera and resulting vibration of your camera to settle to the point of being still before you trigger the shutter a second and final time.
3. Turn Off Lens Image Stabilization / Vibration Reduction for Tripod Mounted Cameras
When you have Image Stabilization or Vibration Reduction active on your lens the internal mechanics detects movement and counter acts it producing a sharp image. When your camera and lens are mounted on a tripod movement is removed, but your lens can errantly activating its IS/VR mechanism creating an image that is less than sharp. For this reason its a best practice to turn off your lenses IS or VR functionality when it is mounted to a tripod.
4. Telephoto Effect – Bringing Far and Near Together
Telephoto lenses have a unique optical effect in that they flatten scenes with great depth. Fittingly this is referred to as a Telephoto Effect. Making use of this effect can be very useful in composing graphically striking subjects and scenes. Unlike shorter focal length lenses that can provide a great deal of depth to a scene the flattening of a scene with the use of a telephoto lens can give the illusion that multiple subjects separated by great distances are actually very close. This effect can generate a great deal of impact with viewers.

Canon 1Ds Mark III and 600mm + 1.4x teleconverter for a total focal length of 840mm
5. Tightly Frame Your Subject
The most obvious use of a telephoto lens is to magnify a subject so as to close the distance between you and what you’re photographing. This can be of extremely valueable if you’re photographing wildlife and would like to get closer with out putting your life at risk. Beyond wildlife using a telephoto lens give you creative license to get extremely close to your subject in some instances. This is particularly useful in highlighting details that would otherwise be lost with shorter focal length lenses.

Canon 1Ds Mark III and 600mm + 2x teleconverter for a total focal length of 1200mm
Taken on my last Sea Otter Photo Tour
6. Isolate Your Subject
Telephoto lenses are great to more distinctly isolate your subject. While this can be done with shorter focal length lenses telephotos enable you to have greater reach to subjects that might be too far off otherwise. This is a middle ground use of telephoto lenses where you’re not looking to crop in too tightly or close the gap between subjects that are far apart.

Canon 1Ds Mark II + 70-200mm IS f/2.8 lens at 200mm
7. Make Use of Ultra Shallow Depth of Field
Telephoto and Super-Telephoto lenses share an optical characteristic that can produce very shallow planes of focus. As a result an often discussed secondary characteristic of long lenses, Bokeh, is the optical signature of out of focus portions of a photograph. Use of shallow depth of field can provide a non-distracting background to your subject enhancing perceived focus and its isolation from competing background elements. Understanding how Bokeh will look from one lens to another will enhance your ability to produce the highest quality image.

Canon 1Ds Mark III + 300mm f/2.8 IS + 1.4x teleconverter for a total focal length of 420mm
Lens provided by BorrowLenses.com
8. Think Macro Photography
If you’re not into photo yoga an alternate way to shoot macro photography is to use a telephoto lens. Extension tubes in combination with super telephoto lenses shorten the closest focusing distance of a lens. Working with a larger lens will not give you every vantage point that a smaller lens can provide, but it will enable you to obtain other unique perspectives all while saving you from getting your pants dirty.

Canon 1Ds Mark III + 300mm f/2.8 IS + 1.4x teleconverter for a total focal length of 420mm
Note these clusters of flowers are smaller than a US Quarter
9. Panning for Action
Panning with a telephoto lens can provide high impact photos of almost any moving subject. Maintaining a sharp subject can be tricky requiring some practice. The added dimension of motion blur bring telephoto and super telephoto lens photos to life. This is a perfect technique for wildlife and action subjects alike.

Canon 1D Mark II + 70-200mm IS f/2.8 lens at 190mm + 2x teleconverter for a total focal length of 380mm
10. Experiment with Astrophotography
With a big enough lens your camera can become a low power telescope. Photographs likely won’t be in the exact same class as a true astrophotography taken with a telescope, but you’ll certainly get eye catching photos none-the-less. The key to successfully using telephoto lenses for astrophotography is:
1. Setting up in an area where there is little light pollution
2. Use of a tripod
3. use of a cable release.
The slightest vibration will be enough to blur a photo with a long lens so special care should be applied to avoid this. For greater drama in post-production with a high enough resolution sensor you can crop down your image while maintaining mouth dropping detail.

Canon 1Ds Mark III and 600mm + 1.4x teleconverter for a total focal length of 840mm
Cropped in Photoshop for an equivalent focal length of 1800mm
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Jim Goldstein’s landscape, nature, travel and photojournalism photography is featured on his web site JMG-Galleries.com, and blog. In addition Jim’s podcast “EXIF and Beyond” features photographer interviews and chronicles the creation of some of his images. In addition Jim can be followed on Twitter and FriendFeed. Also be sure to check out his workshops.





36 Responses to “10 Tips For Great Telephoto Photography” - Add Yours
August 25th, 2009 at 1:28 am
Good tips. What tripod/ballhead would you recommend using? What works well for you?
August 25th, 2009 at 2:11 am
You can simulate a remote shutter release by using the delayed release. Some camera offer you a short 2 sec delay wich is perfect.
August 25th, 2009 at 4:00 am
Zack glad you enjoyed the article. I use a RRS ballhead style tripodhead. There are several different makes, just be sure to find one that can properly support the weight of your gear. Note some of the bigger lenses require special tripod heads such as a Wimberly. It all comes down to the gear you’re going to be using and the subjects you’ll be photographing.
August 25th, 2009 at 6:48 am
Your picture of the moon is rotated 90 degrees clockwise of what it should be. (Copernicus Crater should be on the bottom right, not the bottom left). To correct it, rotate it 90 degrees counterclockwise.
Pete
August 25th, 2009 at 12:05 pm
Thanks for the interesting tips. I am considering using a monopod to shoot a tennis tournament, where I’ll be in the stands. What are your thoughts/suggestions?
August 25th, 2009 at 1:14 pm
Richard that is indeed an alternate to a shutter release. The shutter release provides you a bit more control though. If the wind is blowing and your lens is shaking the shutter release will let you wait until the right time saving you a wasted shot.
August 25th, 2009 at 1:15 pm
Pete thanks for the comment. Actually that is how the moon appears from my location here in Northern California during a moonset.
August 25th, 2009 at 1:17 pm
jet16 a monopod might be a good way to go, but with out knowing the lens you’ll be using or the rules of the facility holding the event its tough to say. Check to make sure that the venue allows monopods or tripods. Many do not. For panning left and right a monopod would be a good choice to save you from arm, shoulder and back fatigue.
August 25th, 2009 at 2:47 pm
The solar eclipse last month was a great chance, so I tried to follow many of the tips in this tutorial and managed to take some amazing astrophotography pictures:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/focx/sets/72157621734845365/
August 25th, 2009 at 5:52 pm
Great tips and I love the moonshot.
August 26th, 2009 at 2:23 am
Jet16, unless you’re going to be using a heavy lens, you should not need a monopod. If your shutter speed is slow enough to merit a monopod, you won’t be freezing the match’s action. You should be aiming at a speed around 1/500, so if you aren’t using a 600mm lens you shouldn’t need a monopod for stabilization. Weight is another matter entirely.
August 26th, 2009 at 4:06 am
This is a great collection of tips!
However, let me please note that the telephoto lens is not responsible for the “flattening effect” that you describe under point 4. The only thing responsible for that effect is a change in perspective! The telephoto lens just allows you to take the same frame from another perspective further away.
Try it for yourself: Take a picture with your telephoto lens and then take it again with a standard lense without changing your location/perspective. Now crop the standard lens picture to the frame of your telephoto lens picture: no difference (except for depth of field, so use a f16 or higher for testing)!
I didn’t believe this until I tried it myself. Ever since I’ve used perspective more efficiently. The telephoto lens is just a tool to shoot the same frame from another perspective – with a dramatic effect. It has no magic optical qualities that flatten the image. The perspective – the different position of the photographer – does the flattening.
This means to get the “flattening” effect you will always have to change your perspective (e.g. move further away) before you get your telephoto lens out. Otherwise it won’t work!!!
Keep them tips coming, love this blog!
August 26th, 2009 at 8:56 am
These lenses , especially the 300mm and 600mm , cost thousands of pounds / dollars . One cheaper way of getting a telephoto lens is to buy a video camera with a long zoom lens . I have a Sony SR5. The lens at the telephoto end is about 400mm . I can add a tele-adapter which boosts it to about 560mm . The file sizes for stills are probably smaller than a digital camera , buy this solution is still useful
August 26th, 2009 at 7:17 pm
these are wonderfull tips, i hope u can give us some tips about low light photography with our normal lenses
a nikon 18-200 .i am getting a lot of out off focus pitures . i have a nikon D300 .what can i do
August 27th, 2009 at 6:15 am
elio–
In low light conditions, cameras frequently have trouble seeing the subject well enough to focus. You might try manual focus rather than automatic. Or have the camera focus automatically on something the same distance as your subject, shut off the auto focus (which will leave the focus set at the right distance), and shoot your subject.
Are you sure you’re not just getting blur from moving the camera during a long shutter speed? You may need a tripod, a higher ISO, or a quicker shutter speed. I personally have to concentrate on being very steady and still when I’m shooting at slow shutter speeds. It’s like shooting a rifle–take a deep breath, exhale most of it, and squeeze the shutter release.
August 27th, 2009 at 10:51 pm
Thanks for your responses, Jim and Alejandro. Another telephoto question…
I just purchased a Canon Rebel T1i and I have a 75-300mm lens from my old Canon film camera which is compatible. The way I understand it, the lens actually will be even longer due to the digital sensor conversion. Any thoughts as to the new equivalency of the lens? 150-400?
August 28th, 2009 at 12:22 am
the last image is awesome.
can’t beat that 1800mm.
August 28th, 2009 at 4:10 am
This artical has 10 tips for great telephoto photographs & the #.2 tip is, use of the shutter release chord. Ur comment is Quite simply a shutter release is a shutter button on a extension chord.
My previous (yesterday’s) question was since the modern cameras specifically the Digital SLRs absolutely has no provision i.e threadding on the shutter release button. So in this case a shutter release chord or the extension chord is of no use & cannot be utilized. I had also expressed some of the difficulties.
I started my photography with Kodak Brownie in 1961, then a twin lens kodak Box camera, similar looking to Rollieflex Twin lens Reflex, Later on graduated to Rollichord, Rolieflex & Mamiya C330 Twin lens reflex cameras, ( My choice was 120 ILFORD FILMS) since my father was a Police forensic & fingerprint photographer I got some training in Contax, Hasselblad medium format + 35MM Film, the Lieca & 35mm range finder & the SLR cameras. My first Nikon was the Nikkormat 35mm SLR fully manual camera.
Now I use a Nikon D70s & the Nikon D80 with the same problem. So the camera manufacturers put away the very essential component (shutter release chord & the provision) for the looks & created the inconvenience for the camera users, finally got it screwed up. So in this case & as per Ur #2. tip How To Use The shutter release chord or the Extension Chord Without A Provision to screw or mount.
Ur bonus tip is not useful for a long periods of shutter opening for night photography & night fire works etc Thank U. Have a Nice Day.
Kumaresan Vibhakar
August 28th, 2009 at 11:14 am
Multiply the lens by 1.6. That’s your number.
August 28th, 2009 at 12:34 pm
The lesson is educative ,comprehensive.The examples show use of 6oo mm.tele Some samples of lesser mm teles should also be included indicating/suggesting steps to take care of from exposure to DOF.
August 28th, 2009 at 1:56 pm
This is a reply to Mr. Kumaresan Vibhakar,
Dear Sir,
Digital SLRs do have the option to use a shutter release. Instead of the old “plunger type,” the new generation DSLRs use an electric cable to do this. I shoot with Sony equipment (A100 & A700). Both of these consumer cameras have shutter release cable (electric) called a remote commander. My A700 even has an Infared (IR) control to remotely trip the shutter. My friend’s Canon (40D) also has such a mechanism. I would bet that your Nikon does too. On the DSLRs, you don’t screw in the cable; you plug it into one of teh accessory ports…it should be well marked.
Cheers,
Bret
August 28th, 2009 at 5:47 pm
When buying a shutter release, make sure you get one that has a “lock open” (B) position. Not all models do. Also non brand models can be half price and work just as well (it’s just a switch and some cable after all).
Anyway my cable release sees a lot of use, even on a monopod, I sometimes use it on long focals. Therefore it lives in a pouch that’s attached to the camera neck strap (along with a spare card and a cleaning cloth). Another pouch has a spare battery.
August 31st, 2009 at 12:21 am
>JIM, That angle of the moon is how it appears at different times of the day=24 hours, season and phase here in the Wonderful Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
August 31st, 2009 at 2:17 am
Tried shooting for the moon using my 55-250mm lens with a tripod but could never get the shot I wanted. It’s just a blur, or a circle light. What should I do to get a clear photo? Pls adv.
August 31st, 2009 at 9:21 am
Doug thanks for the comment and clarification. The moon is in orbit and takes on slightly different orientation based on your location and as you noted season.
August 31st, 2009 at 9:31 am
Norman your capturing a blur of the moon because you’re not exposing correctly for it. It’s important to remember that the moon is a sun lit object. As a result digital cameras do not meter correctly for the moon with a dark sky around it. To obtain the best exposure use your camera’s manual mode. A quick rule of thumb is to follow the Sunny 16 rule… this rule states to set the exposure as 1/ISO at f16. For example if you’re at ISO 400 then set the exposure time for 1/400 at f/16. I hope the info helps and you get your shot the next time. Keep us posted how it works out.
August 31st, 2009 at 4:27 pm
This is a very useful article to improve the knowledge about the telephoto lens.I am really pleased.
Ashvin Patel
August 31st, 2009 at 7:22 pm
This is article is great. Thanks for sharing.
I now have another item on my wish list : a remote shutter.
Jim, do I still need to cover the viewfinder when using the remote shutter? Is the wireless shutter better than wired shutter?
Thanks.
September 1st, 2009 at 7:40 am
“Norman. Amora Says:
August 31st, 2009 at 2:17 am
Tried shooting for the moon using my 55-250mm lens with a tripod but could never get the shot I wanted. It’s just a blur, or a circle light. What should I do to get a clear photo? Pls adv.”
I had the same problem and after many, many nights of trying all the different functions and variations on my Cannon power shot A702 IS… I found the feature called “Spot” (found beside weighted center ballance) and that worked very well for me
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YozWdEgzveI/SWpdCbZM4uI/AAAAAAAAAUY/hgvh1LufxyU/s1600-h/1-9.JPG
not near as good as the example in the tip but it works for me.
September 6th, 2009 at 12:59 am
thanks for the tips!
i am more of landscape photography. but of course on the side, i want to explore some portrait photography as well. so i need to make use of my wide angle and kit lenses for now in my portrait projects.
keep up the tips coming!
September 16th, 2009 at 7:09 pm
Hi Jim. I used my EOS 40D with grip & a Bigma with a timer shutter release, and mounted on a Velbon sherpa tripod. At my head level I can use with ease the live view function of my camera, when I take pictures of a full moon. However at torso level I find it hard to use the live view function. Do you think I have to use an angle finder to compensate for the handicap?
September 19th, 2009 at 6:32 pm
Shutter Release
This is actually an non-issue with any camera that has a self timer feature. There is no need to use a seperate shutter release; I kick myself every time I look at mine!. Just set the self timer to its lowest setting, 2 seconds on my D90, press the shutter and step back; the camera will do the rest! And there’s one less piece of equipment to buy and haul around.
September 23rd, 2009 at 1:44 am
what the … great picture, awesome, nothing can say but very nice
September 23rd, 2009 at 4:27 am
I love my telephoto lens, you can barely tell I shot this through bars.
http://gallery.photo.net/photo/9697273-md.jpg
September 24th, 2009 at 11:39 pm
How do I shoot into the sun?
September 24th, 2009 at 11:40 pm
How do I shoot into the late afternoon sun?
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