Should you buy a DSLR or Point and Shoot Digital Camera?

“I’m using a compact point and shoot digital camera and i would like to ask it is worth it to upgrade to a DSLR camera? How huge a difference do DSLR cameras make compared to compact point and shoot digital camera?”
Thanks for the question – I’ll attempt to keep my answer brief and not too technical. This is a question that I’m regularly asked, increasingly so as the price of DSLRs have dropped and become much more in the reach of the average digital photographer’s budget.
Before I start this post you might like to check out two posts looking at the Top DSLR Models and Top Point and Shoot Cameras as voted by our readers.
Let me declare up front that I own both a Point and Shoot digital camera (a Fujifilm FinePix F30) and a DSLR (a Canon EOS 5D). I like having both because I do feel they compliment each other and are each suited for different situations. My preference in terms of quality of shots is with the DSLR but for convenience the point and shoot sometimes wins out.
I also want to say up front that the digital camera industry is constantly evolving and changing. The lines between DSLRs and point and shoots are blurring (or at least this seems to be the intention of manufacturers). What I write below unfortunately will have elements of generalizations in it as I classify hundreds of cameras (each with their own distinctive features) into two camps.
Are Megapixels Everything?
Before I get into the Pros and Cons of DSLRs vs Point and Shoot digital cameras I want to address a common misconception that I regularly hear among digital camera owners – that a cameras megapixel rating is the main thing to consider when determining a camera’s quality.
The fact is that megapixels are NOT everything. Despite point and shoot cameras now coming with up to 10 megapixels (Casio released one last month) their quality level is not necessarily has good as a DSLR with only 8 or so.
The main reason for this (and there are many as we’ll see below) is that the image sensor used in point and shoot digital cameras is generally much smaller than the image sensor used in a DSLR (the difference is often as much as 25 times). This means that the pixels on a point and shoot camera have to be much smaller and (without getting too technical) collect fewer photons (ok I lied about the technicalities). The long and short of it is that because of this point and shoot cameras need to work at slower ISO levels which means that they produce ‘noisier’ (or more grainy) shots.
A lot more could be said on sensor size – but trust me, smaller sensors significantly reduce the quality of an image. I’d much rather have a camera with less megapixels and a larger image sensor than the other way around.
This is one factor that needs to be considered when choosing between a DSLR and point and shoot – but let me run through some more:
DSLRs
A quick definition - unfortunately some camera manufacturers in recent months have released cameras with the DSLR label that technically are not. For the purposes of this article I’ll define DSLR’s as cameras that have removable lenses, that have a reflex mirror which allows live optical viewing through the lens taking the image. ie DSLR’s use a mirror that allows you to see the image you’re about to shoot through the view finder – when you take the shot the mirror flips up allowing the image sensor to capture the image.
Some cameras these days are being touted as DSLRs because you have ‘through lens viewing’ but they are not true DSLR’s – (Digital, Single, Lens, Reflex). This does not necessarily make them a bad camera – but in my opinion it there is a distinction between them.
DSLR Strengths
- Image Quality - I’ve already covered this above in my discussion on megapixels and image sensors – but due to the larger size of image sensors in DSLRs which allows for larger pixel sizes – DSLRs are generally able to be used at a faster ISO which will lead to faster shutter speeds and less grain.
- Adaptability – DSLR’s ability to change lenses opens up a world of possibilities for photographers. While my point and shoot has a nice little 3x Optical Zoom (and many these days have longer ones) my DSLR can be fitted with many high quality lenses ranging from wide angle to super long focal lengths depending upon what I’m photographing (and of course my budget). Add to this a large range of other accessories (flashes, filters etc) and a DSLR can be adapted to many different situations. It should be noted that when it comes to lenses that the diversity in quality of lenses is great. Image quality is impacted greatly by the quality of the lens you use.
- Speed – DSLR’s are generally pretty fast pieces of machinery when it comes to things like start up, focussing and shutter lag.
- Optical Viewfinder – due to the reflex mirror DSLR’s are very much a what you see is what you get operation.
- large ISO range - this varies between cameras but generally DSLRs offer a wide array of ISO settings which lends itself to their flexibility in shooting in different conditions.
- Manual Controls – while many point and shoots come with the ability to shoot in manual mode, a DSLR is designed in such a way that it is assumed that the photographer using it will want to control their own settings. While they do come with good auto modes the manual controls are generally built in in such a way that they are at the photographers finger tips as they are shooting.
- Hold it’s value – some argue that a DSLR will hold it’s value longer than a point and shoot. There is probably some truth in this. DSLR models do not get updated quite as often as point and shoot models (which can be updated twice a year at times). The other factor in favor of DSLRs is that the lenses you buy for them are compatible with other camera bodies if you do choose to upgrade later on (as long as you stay with your brand). This means your investment in lenses is not a waste over the years.
- Depth of Field – one of the things I love about my DSLR is the versatility that it gives me in many areas, especially depth of field. I guess this is really an extension of it’s manual controls and ability to use a variety of lenses but a DSLR can give you depth of field that puts everything from forground to background in focus through to nice blurry backgrounds.
- Quality Optics – I hesitate to add this point as there is a large degree of difference in quality between DSLR lenses (and point and shoot cameras are always improving) but in general the lenses that you’ll find on a DSLR are superior to a point and shoot camera. DSLR lenses are larger (more glass can add to the quality) and many of them have many hours of time put into their manufacture (especially when you get into higher end lenses). I strongly advise DSLR buyers to buy the best quality lenses that they can afford. It it’s the difference between a high end lens on a medium range camera or a medium range lens on a high end camera I’d go for quality lenses every time as they add so much to photos.
DSLR Weaknesses
- Price – while they are coming down in price (especially at the lower end) DSLR’s are generally more expensive than point and shoot digital cameras. Also consider that you might want to upgrade your lens (as kit lenses are generally not of a super high quality) or you may wish to add more lenses later and that this adds to the cost of a DSLR.
- Size and Weight – the only reason I take my point and shoot out with me is on those occasions when I don’t want to lug my DSLR (and it’s lenses) around with me. DSLRs are heavy and sizable and when you add a lens or two to your kit bag you can end up with quite the load!
- Maintenance – a factor well worth considering if you’re going to use a DSLR with more than one lens is that every time you change lenses you run the risk of letting dust into your camera. Dust on an image sensor is a real annoyance as it will leave your images looking blotchy. Cleaning your image sensor is not a job for the faint hearted and most recommend that you get it done professionally (which of course costs). This is a problem that is being rectified in many new DSLRs which are being released with self cleaning sensors.
- Noise – DSLRs are generally more noisy to use than point and shoots. This will vary depending upon the lens you use but while point and shoots can be almost silent when taking a shot a DSLR will generally have a ‘clunk’ as the mechanisms inside it do their thing. I personally quite like this sound – but it’s something that is a factor for some.
- Complexity – while DSLRs are designed for manual use this of course means you need to know how to use the tools that they give you. Some friends that have bought DSLRs in the past few months have told me that they were a little overwhelmed at first by the array of settings and features. The learning curve can be quite steep. Having said this – all DSLRs have fully Automatic mode and many have the normal array of semi-auto modes that point and shoot digital cameras have.
- No live LCD – in many DSLRs the only way to frame your shot is via the optical viewfinder. Some photographers prefer to use a camera’s LCD for this task. This is another thing that is changing with more and more new DSLRs having a ‘Live View’ LCD which enables you to frame your shots without looking through the view finder (update: please note that Live View isn’t perfect – check out the comments of NormMonkey below who shares more.
So what DSLR do I recommend?
Let me point you to a recent post here at DPS listing the Top 20 DSLRs as owned by our community members. I am a Canon fan myself but the Nikon DSLRs on the list get great reviews as do the others. Also check out the new Canon EOS 40D that’s just been announced (available now for preorder at Amazon).
Point and Shoots
While some people write off all non DSLR’s as inferior I think they’ve got a lot going for them and would highly recommend them depending upon the level of photography that you engage in, your budget, the things that you’ll want to do with your photos and the subject matter that you will be shooting. You’ll also notice below that I note that the Point and Shoot market options available are improving. Some of the weaknesses I note are being improved by manufacturers lately on some of their models. Here’s some Pros and Cons of point and shoot digital cameras.:
Point and Shoot Digital Camera Strengths
- Size and Weight - to be able to slip a camera in a pocket as you dash out the door to a party is a wonderful thing. These days point and shoot cameras can be slim and light – to the point of not even knowing you’ve got them with you. This is great for parties, travel and all manner of situations. Of course some point and shoots can be quite bulky too (especially some of the super zoom models on the market).
- Quiet Operation – this was the thing I noticed about my new point and shoot the most. Not only didn’t my subjects not notice I’d taken shots of them at times, once or twice it was so quiet that even I didn’t notice I’d taken a shot.
- Auto Mode – the quality of images produced in point and shoots varies greatly, but in general they shoot quite well in auto mode. I guess manufacturers presume that this style of camera will be used in auto mode (or one of the other preset modes) mostly and as a result they generally come pretty well optimized for this type of shooting (as do many DSLRs these days).
- Price – in general point and shoot digital cameras are cheaper. Of course you can go to the top of the range and spend as much as you would on a cheaper DSLR, but most are in a much more affordable price bracket.
- LCD Framing – as I mentioned above, many digital camera users prefer to frame their shots using LCDs. Point and Shoots always come with this ability and some even come with ‘flip out’ screens that enable their users to take shots from different angles and still see what they’re shooting.
Point and Shoot Digital Camera Weaknesses
- Image Quality – point and shoots generally have small image sensors which means that the quality that they produce is generally lower. This is slowly changing in some point and shoots but in comparison to DSLRs they still have a way to go. It’s worth saying however – that if you’re not planning on using your images for major enlargements or in professional applications that the quality of point and shoot cameras can be more than enough for the average user. Manufacturers are making improvements all the time in their technology and even in the last year or two I’ve noticed significant image quality improvements.
- Smaller ISO range – once again this is changing slowly (my point and shoot has the ability to shoot to 1600 ISO) but in general ISO ranges are more limited in point and shoot cameras – this limits them in different shooting conditions.
- Speed – point and shoot digital cameras were always notorious for their slowness, particularly their ’shutter lag’ (the time between pressing the shutter and when the image is taken. This is constantly being improved but the instantaneous feel of many DSLRs is still not there with point and shoots when it comes to shutter lag, start up and even focusing time.
- Reliance upon LCD - most point and shoot digital camera rely almost completely upon their LCD for framing. While some enjoy this others like to use a viewfinder. Most point and shoot cameras have view finders but they are generally so small that they are almost useless. Some models don’t have viewfinders at all (increasingly a trend).
- Manual Controls Limited – many point and shoot cameras do have the ability to play with a full array of manual settings and controls (or at least make it difficult to do so). They often come with ‘aperture priority’ and ’shutter priority’ modes which are great – but quite often the manual controls are hidden in menu systems and are not as accessible as on a DSLR (if they are there at all).
- Less Adaptable - while they are highly portable point and shoot cameras are generally not very adaptable. What you buy when you first get them is what you are stuck with using for years. Some do have lens adapters to give you wider angles or longer zooms but generally most people don’t go for these accessories.
Which Point and Shoot digital cameras do I recommend?
Once again let me point you to the Top 10 Point and Shoot Digital Cameras as used by the DPS community. There are some fantastic cameras in the list including the Canon PowerShot Pro Series S3 IS.
Should You Buy a DSLR or a Point and Shoot Digital Camera?
This is ultimately a question that you need to answer for yourself. My answer is to have both (I’m fortunate to be able to do so) but if I had to choose between one or the other I’d get a DSLR based upon my experience level, the type of photos I take, my desire to use manual settings and the quality of image that I’m after.
If your situation is different to mine however and you want a portable camera that takes good pictures that you’ll mainly use for small prints and emailing that you’ll mainly shoot in auto mode – you’ll probably be quite happy with a cheaper point and shoot.
Further Reading on DSLRs:




156 Responses to “Should you buy a DSLR or Point and Shoot Digital Camera?” - Add Yours
August 24th, 2007 at 1:55 am
Not actually answering the question, I would suggest a camera that occupies the middle ground between P&S and DSLR. I’m very pleased with our Canon S3IS and Lumix DMC_FZ7. Not the superior quality of a DSLR but both have manual controls that a P&S usually lacks.
August 24th, 2007 at 2:13 am
One big disadvantage of point and shoots which should be mentioned is that they tend to have large depth of field at every f/stop. The article mentions depth of field flexibility in terms of lenses and settings for a DSLR, but the issue is really more a function of the camera formats.
Even shooting wide open (at the lowest f/stop) it can be quite hard to get the nice blurred background with the very small sensor of a point and shoot (I have seen it said that at normal focal length, the depth of field of a point and shoot at f/2.8 is about the same as a DSLR at f/13). This can be great for things like macro photography, but makes it quite difficult with many point and shoots to get nice blurred backgrounds.
I learned this the hard way when I bought a long-zoom point and shoot a couple of years back — the biggest frustration I had was the enormous and inflexible depth of field.
EL
August 24th, 2007 at 2:44 am
Another drawback of P&S cameras is that they tend not to save RAW file formats. I could be wrong, but I seem to remember that many of them did do RAW several years ago. Now, I think the only Canon P&S camera that supports RAW is thier G9, and that was re-added since the G8 didn’t have it. Don’t know if they’re still making the S70, but that one has RAW too. Personally, I would love to buy the SD870 IS, but without RAW, I don’t think I’m gonna.
A friend just referred me to your site, by the way; good work!
Shawn
August 24th, 2007 at 3:37 am
When people ask me this, I usually ask if they like to use all the settings on their point and shoot. If they are the sort of person that tends to be happy with auto & “night”, they’re probably not going to enjoy the myriad settings on a DSLR, and the quality improvement of pictures is going to be minimal i.e. not worth the cost and size.
I say this having shot with a point and shoot for two years before my DSLR, and I tried about every single setting and trick I could with that little camera before I decided I’d hit the limits of what it could do technically.
I do agree with EL about depth of field. It is the first thing one notices about using an SLR compared to a point and shoot and it’s a beautiful thing.
August 24th, 2007 at 3:44 am
Well, personally I find quite convenient to have one of each as you cannot always carry your DSLR with you.
I’m quite happy with Ricoh Caplio R6 but new shock and water proof Olympus SW 790/795 might be the perfect companion of a DSLR too as it they get access where DSLR’s can hardly go.
Regrettably RAW format is only available on the Panasonic LX-2 / Leica D-Lux 3.
August 24th, 2007 at 6:45 am
Most people will “upgrade” from point and shoot to DSLR. so in that case, they too have best of both worlds
August 24th, 2007 at 8:07 am
I agree with Cedric. Best to have both.. I find my canon digital elph stuck in my pocket going everywhere with me, while my DSLR gets left behind for many events either from fear of theft or damage..
August 24th, 2007 at 1:19 pm
Another great article and observant responses too.
I say both as Cedric noted! The dSLR for the creativity, flexibility, high shutter rate, etc, etc and the P+S for the small size, have it with me all the time convinience.
Also as Shawn said, I would love RAW in my P+S. Most though have antiquated implimentations which renders it too slow to be usable.
August 24th, 2007 at 4:59 pm
May I say that the DSLR’s are not noisier than compact camera’s?
Because of the small sensor in a compact cam, the pixels stand very close to each other and create so more noise.
And the DSLR’s do have most of the time a better noise reduction. Look at a picture made with an 350D at ISO 1600, and a picture with an compact cam at ISO 1600.
In my opinion is the compact cam more noisy than you ever want.
Or am I wrong?
August 24th, 2007 at 7:10 pm
Since I use my photos only for collection purpose, and for sending them via email, I find P&S camera very good. I have got a Canon Powershot SD1000, and it is much much better than what I had expected. :-)
August 24th, 2007 at 8:14 pm
Christel, the noise referred to was mechanical, not image. By their very nature a DSLR has a lot of mechanics to operate the mirror and shutter, and make a satisfying, if noisy, shutter clunk.
P&S cameras can be almost silent, even if the manufacturer has added a “fake” shutter sound for psychological reasons.
:o)
August 25th, 2007 at 12:57 am
I have a Nikon D50 and I am looking into purchasing a P&S camera as well. I don’t carry my DSLR with me for the reason of I have so much additional equipment (Lensbabies, extra lenses, batteries, filters, etc…) and I don’t like half done shots. Needless to say I can’t just whip it out like you can with a P&S so for those “moments” you just want to catch right then and there I think a P&S is a smart addition. I think it is very beneficial to have one of each and each one have strengths and weakness that can compliment each other.
August 25th, 2007 at 3:30 am
A quick note about Live View on dSLRs: this feature is not designed to work the same way it does on P&S cameras. Users planning to jump from P&S to a dSLR with LV, who plan to use it to frame their shots the same way they do with their P&S, will be sorely disappointed.
The Live View in a dSLR helps the photog deal with situations like ground-level or above-head shooting, when you can’t see through the viewfinder. You pay a price, though: there’s a shutter lag when using LV (the mirror snaps down and then back up), and the LV can’t focus well. As well, the displayed histogram on the LV may be off from the actual shot, especially for edge cases (long exposures, IR photography).
–
Technical details: dSLRs have their AE and AF sensors behind the mirror. While the mirror is up out of the way for Live View, the camera can’t focus nor can it get exposure info (beyond adjusting the sensor’s sensitivity). When the user wants to take a shot, the mirror snaps back down so the AE and AF sensors can do their thing. As well, the shutter must close and the sensor must be cleared and reset. Then the mirror snaps back up and the exposure proceeds as normal.
More technical details: In a P&S camera, the AE and AF can be done using data right from the sensor. The much larger sensors (smaller DoF) and finer optics in a dSLR require using the traditional AF methods.
August 25th, 2007 at 3:49 am
I’ve thought off-and-on about getting a P&S for the pocket-size convenience for a long time.
I keep deciding not to. I figure
(a) if an image is worth taking, it’s worth taking with the best equipment;
(b) why buy an expensive camera and leave it on the shelf?
(c) I can take just my camera and one attached lens in a smaller pouch to specific events, if I want less weight (not quite the same as P&S, but less weight than my full kit);
(d) I could the P&S money towards some quality optics.
It’s true there’s no dSLR substitute for having a tiny camera in-pocket, available at all times. I’d just rather get in the habit of bringing my good camera with me everywhere, instead.
August 25th, 2007 at 6:01 am
I bought a $1900. DSLR but took it back and got a SILENT camera; the shutter sound scared away the big game I was shooting.
August 25th, 2007 at 6:55 am
Here’s another subtle point: P&S cameras are usually designed to produce “snappier” pictures right off the bat, while dSLRs are usually calibrated for a more neutral output. Those moving from a P&S to a dSLR will see this and wonder why the dSLR picture doesn’t always look any better. I have both types of cameras and I find I must frequently sharpen and enhance my dSLR pictures to give them a bit more zip.
August 25th, 2007 at 8:17 am
Thanks Norm Monkey – great commments on Live View!
August 25th, 2007 at 1:05 pm
Er, what cameras are being marketed as dSLRs when they’re not? If you mean the new “live view” feature on some models, note that they *all* also can operate in normal mirror-to-viewfinder mode.
August 25th, 2007 at 2:17 pm
I have a higher end P&S Sony R1 and I love it for what I shoot. Altho it looks like a dslr and has the RAW capability, manual settings, scene modes etc…for me it works the best because of shooting in so much dust. My biggest fear of moving into a dslr is dust along with the expense of various lenses. I may not have a choice as there are few cameras coming out that will fill the footprints of the R1. The combination of limited budgets, small end user groups, desired results, ease of operation, and total expense, make for a niche market that few cameras manufactures care to fill.
August 26th, 2007 at 5:48 am
Lizzy — Pentax K10D (and presumably its successors) will give you a dust-sealed dSLR at a relatively affordable price. Probably better-sealed than the Sony R1, actually.
August 26th, 2007 at 9:23 am
I got similar questions from my friends many times. My standard reply to them is “what do you want to get from the digital photos”
It looks nice to carry a DSLR with big lens running around but it is heavier and most likely more expensive. It requires some level of technical skill and most important – the work after taking the photo.
I usually recommend the beginner to have a simple pocket size point and shoot camera first. The new P&S camera product reasonable quality pictures. I always stress that photography is largely depends on the mood, the time you take the photo. The more you do, the better picture you can make. Carry a big camera may hinter the creativity for ordinary people
August 27th, 2007 at 4:11 am
I have a Canon Ixus 40 (elph in the US) and a Canon powershot s3is. The Ixus fits in my shirt pocket – and therefore I can use it everywhere. The s3is was my “upgrade” to a real camera – and I love it – I use all the manual settings – but I have to admit that the DOF and the noise are problematic. To ensure a decent picture – I need an ISO of less that 200 (I normally only use 100 or 80) or else… And I can only get a narrow DOF with macro – or when I use max zoom. And it has a 12x zoom – so to take a good portrait I need a great distance…
I sometimes wonder why no one builds a “non-DSLR” with a large sensor – exchangeable lenses? The mirror with its mechanic parts we don’t need and therefore it will be cheaper than a real dSLR – and I will be able to afford it ;-) Okay there’s probably some technical reason why..
August 29th, 2007 at 2:46 am
Heather Kay: Thanks for the explanation.
August 29th, 2007 at 5:55 am
I have both. The reasons I have the DSLR are all mentioned above. The P&S, mostly covered. The other reasons are:
1) Theft. P&S in my pocket is way less obvious and less appealing of a target than my Lumix. Especially relevant for travelers.
2) Video. No, it’s not professional quality, but if a picture is worth a thousand words, a video could be worth a thousand images. Scenario: The palm trees swaying in a hurricane.
3) Underwater. DSLR underwater cases are like 1000 USD. I got a bag for my Lumix for 15 USD. Again, not pro, but fun at the pool or snorkeling.
4) Sturdiness. Just like beetles survive greater falls than people, small cameras survive greater falls than big’uns. (with exceptions).
My Panasonic Lumix (DMC-FX9) is ALWAYS with me. Leica optics guarantee quality images, and the size is just right. It also does great macro without requiring another 300 USD lens. ;)
August 29th, 2007 at 5:16 pm
in my case, i would prefer having both. but since i dont have the budget, i only have a point and shoot.
August 31st, 2007 at 8:52 am
As these type of questions are asked for new photography enthusiast, as like my self, I certainly suggest to start with P&S. I just bought a Canon IXUS70 and am happy with it. To a certain extend I can learn to use different ‘manual’ setting thats available with the camera. Since I am stil learning how to get good pictures, I have not concentrate on detail tecnicalities. Until I feel I am able to get good decent pictures with my P&S I wll then later consider looking at DSLR.
September 1st, 2007 at 7:07 pm
My Canon 300D has been stolen. Together with all three lenses. That camera just was fantastic. However, I couldn’t spent all theta money again to instanstly buy another DSLR.
I decided to give a P&S camera a shot and got the Canon IXUS 60. I am really positively surprised. And I love the video feature, which I never could do with the DSLR before. Of course another DSLR is still on my shopping list. But I do not want to miss my IXUS anymore.
Yes, both systems complement each other
September 5th, 2007 at 5:03 pm
Recently I was searching for a point and shoot camera and I decided on the Fujifilm F31fd. The camera provides manual functions such as the aperture or shutter priority. The night shots was fantastic!
I feel DSLR is a good investment only if you are thinking of becoming a serious photographer. For the start I will go for a good digital point and shoot camera. If my photography develops into next level of interest and I do not mind carrying a DSLR when I travel, I guess I really do not mind getting a DSLR.
September 25th, 2007 at 4:32 am
Like most people who post messages in places like this, I suffer from sporadic bouts of gearhead-ism. It’s easy to forget that taking great photos is (give or take) 80% setting up a great shot, 15% knowing how to use your camera, 4% the camera itself, and the last 1% is just plain stupid luck.
Case in point: I won a Backpacker Magazine photo contest a couple years back. Aperture? Film speed? No idea. The photo worked because the sunset over the Alaskan ocean cast the icebergs in surreal shades of orange and pink. The camera was a 2mp Canon A40. 2mp, right.
Get out there and take some pictures.
September 26th, 2007 at 2:16 pm
I think the decision would primarily depend upon the user’s interest. a casual photographer doesnt need a DSLR. and if a newbie is interested then i think he must initially start with a gud PnS cam like the S3 IS, etc. Once you know how to work on some manual functions and the technicalities, then move onto the DSLRs.
October 6th, 2007 at 5:11 am
I bought the Canon s3, and I’ve yet to be disappointed with the quality of the pictures. It got the best reviews of a point and shoot camera within a price range even 200-300$ more then it costs. I strongly recommend this camera to anyone who wants an advanced point and shoot with the ability to take great “off the cuff” auto mode photos as well as a great deal of control over settings in manual mode.
October 14th, 2007 at 4:52 am
I am off to buy the casio ex-v8sr for the sole purpose of macro photography in the operating room. I have a DSLR but used my sony cyber shot with 10x lens for years with great success until it died and then my nikon S10 also with great success until it was stolen. I have tried all P&S, including leica etc and found the focusing capability of the casio the best to get into a small space of 1″ wide and 1″ deep with perfect focus the best…multiple AF modes. Not sure though technically advantage of 3x versus 7x lens helping me with macro but I have found that works even though I believe it helps zoom principally. I have found that I can get a sharper image with a smaller size file with the better lens.
Hope this helps.
October 14th, 2007 at 2:05 pm
I completely agree with Carl.
As on today one may really wonder if it is really worth the effort for a hobbyist (PS) to getting toward Pro-hobbyist(cheap DLSR). The advancement in normal ps and bridge cameras are really fast paced. It may really not be as pleasant an experience initally considering the effort. For layman better keep patience and persistence (chewing gum) as the learning curve is pretty steep from novice and amateur to pro-hobbyist to pro.
Better anyone buy Bridge SLR like S5IS Canon or Kodak Z series with very good chromatics and optics.
For Pro-hobbyists like me, the Pentax K100D (i like that) or Nikon D40, D50 is the choice to make.
For Pros no limits..
October 22nd, 2007 at 11:51 pm
I just bought the Olympus E-500 on clearance, and I have been playing with it for the last two days. I am very happy with the quality of the photos, and the auto-mode suits most of my purposes very well. Perhaps the only thing I regret about getting a dSLR is the lack of video mode, plus the size of the camera. I am travelling for a year in Canada, and I indend to spend weeks in the Rockys taking photos, but I also would like to spend ages partying with a smaller, more versatile camera with a video setting. Thus, the expenditure of another $250-400 seems justified, considering that it will be for a year.
In short:
dSLR pros- high image quality, manual zoom, manual f-stop, iso, shutter, etc, but still with very good Auto mode, can get very good lenses.
dSLR cons- no video, bulky, expensive (lenses cost more)
So on the whole, a dSLR’s pros far outweigh the cons unless you are desperate for video or pocket-shooting.
On the other hand, I could just remember things!
November 30th, 2007 at 3:57 am
I have both. I have the nikon d50 which is my primary camera because I am a person who loves to shoot in all manual (it gives me the feeling I truly own a picture and the camera was only a tool not a crutch). I also own a olympus stylus 720 SW. This was for my social life. Its shock, water, heat, and cold proof. Perfect for those spontaneous things that happens with friends.
Now here comes the cons of each since u have already heard the pros
Con’s Dslr- heavy and expensive. One thing that most people don’t take into consideration is looks. People give u very strange looks when u have a large lens like the sigma 10-24mm lense on it. (Personally I love it because they ask stupid questions like how many mega pixels that thing has. When that is a very ignorant question in many cases because Mega-pixels are nothing if there is no room to put them on a sensor.)
Con’s P&S- bad image quality, far less control, no viewfinder is a big one for me, and no looks :p
Unless you know how to control iso, Shutter speed, and Aperture stay with P&S. Because there is no point in buying a 500 guitar if you can’t play a cord.
Then when you know how these elements affect a frame move up and and enjoy the fun of a DSLR
December 18th, 2007 at 5:31 pm
I would like to by a point-shoot camera.
Pixels is 6 mp enough. So, i go for Canon S3IS, what u recommend as above.
But i want to know about the lens.
I am instrested in Potrait, Wildlife & Birds Photography (ZOO) actualy my expection is to cover more than 400-600mtrs.
Even i dont know hot to calculate the between distance to lens.
How to consider the lens for my photography.
So, Please guide me to reach my aim.
Thank,
Nandha.
January 8th, 2008 at 5:19 am
THANKYOU for this post. So useful. Explained things in clear terms.
June 1st, 2008 at 7:03 pm
Wow! 6 mo’s since the last comment. OK..well I guess I’m the perfect candidate to post a reply. I have been shooting for the last couple of years on a Canon S3IS P&S. That is an excellent camera with a very long zoom-12x optical which is the equvalent to around a 400-500 mm telephoto lens. However when you get to the 6x’s plus end of that the quality goes bye bye. I just purchased a Canon 40D dslr with a couple of good lenses. It is amazing how much more you can do with this camera. The 2 bottom lines are;
1. $$$$ …Are you committed and serious enough to spend thousands of dollars for a good camera body, 2-3 good lenses (that will cost more than all but the very top of the line SLR’s), filters-each lens takes a different sized filter, bag, tripod-good one’s are expensive, multiple memory cards, battery, lens hood’s), Adobe Photoshop.
2. Are you willing to carry around the extra weight of everything you need to take with you including a tripod if you are into landscape/wildlife?
If you don’t plan on becoming serious about photography either as a hobby or profession, if you plan on making 4×6 or 5×7 prints, and if you don’t like a heavy/large load with you then I highly suggest you get a good point & shoot like the Canon S5IS, Canon SD series-most are 10 mp’s, or the highly recommended (by pro’s) Canon G9; 12 mp P&S. important note; megapixels are definately not everything to look for in any camera.
June 7th, 2008 at 11:10 pm
I think one important issue is public safety. Walking around questionable areas with expensive DSLR equipment, especially when you are travelling, might not be the wisest idea. Unfortunately, some of the most interesting and grandest objects to take photographs of sometimes are near areas where the staff at the hotel you are staying at warn you to be careful. Just a thought.
June 14th, 2008 at 10:01 pm
The greatest deciding factor in the DSLR upgrade decision isnot the abilities of the camera but the ability of YOU. Only go for a DSLR if you understand fully and completely what is going on inside. There is so much more that can go wrong with a DSLR than a compact and if you don’t know what you’re doing properly then simply don’t bother. A DSLR will not make you a better photographer. Most likely it will complicate the process.
July 6th, 2008 at 9:14 am
I could use some help. I bought a Kodak Z1012 IS and I’ve been trying to decide whether to return it or not. Even when I’m not zooming, it takes pictures which appear either grainy or blended upon any close inspection. Blow it up to real size on a computer and the colors begin to bleed together, like in a watercolor. Is this a failing of the model? I’ve tampered with the manual settings, and while they allow me to capture daylight more accurately than the Auto setting, they don’t help this “watercolor” problem. Can anyone help with some advice?
July 6th, 2008 at 5:48 pm
Dan-you definately should not see what you are seeing. I would return it and get a new one or a different camera all together-for $300 you should be able to pick up a Canon S5IS. It is the same type of camera that you have-body style. It doesn’t have 10 mp’s like the one you got but it is a very good p&s camera. It also has the same zoom range as the one you got-12x. The image quality is very good. If you have another $200 you can get the Canon G9 which is one of the best P&S camera’s on the market. Good luck.
July 13th, 2008 at 2:19 pm
hi!
I’m an amature photographer.
Well…i’m about to buy a new DSLR, and on the top of the list was Sony ALPHA series. I think i’m getting Sony Alpha350. First of all, it has 14.2 megapixel, got liveview function with 2.5fps burst mode.
And the price of it was only US$ 799 including 18-70 lens. Can anyone of you tell me why shouldn’t i buy that camera? ANd if so, which camera should i be gettin with reasonable price like sony and that price depreciation last longer?
thanks
October 2nd, 2008 at 12:44 pm
Actually, my view on the whole subject is a lil different from everything i’ve read thus far…
it basically comes down to owning two cameras… first and foremost, if you’re reading this, you’re probably going to want to get a dslr anyways, so get one where you can upgrade to FULL FRAME later… meaning, either canon, or the new sony alpha line… the reason for this is that, well, full frame has many more advantages, the biggest for me would be the much larger viewfinder (thus far easier manual focusing).
That shouldn’t be a big purchase though, as the entry level cameras for either sony or canon are around $500. if you can, get JUST the body without the lens, and put the money you saved from not buying the lens kit towards buying a higher quality lens. (you’ll have to do research on that one, but key things to look for is the quality of the glass itself [i.e., APO]).
also, avoid the super zoom lenses for SLR’s at all costs… if you want a lens that can go from 20mm – 300mm, you’re better off not owning the lens at all… as you’ll get very poor quality for the tradeoff of less lens changes (and besides, you didn’t just buy a DSLR so you could keep the same lens on it all the time, did you? 0:-) )
anyways… my suggestion would be get two lenses off the bat, one that can do a range of approx 20-70, and another that can do the range of 70-300… (those are approximate values, you’ll probably find the ranges to be smaller, but you get the idea).
okay, having said all that (eesh, that was long, sorry folks!), lets move onto the second camera that in my opinion, you should get…
well, the idea everyone shares is to get a point and shoot… i’d like to take that one step furthur… the whole reason one would get a point and shoot would be for convenience, but what can be more convenient then… a camera phone…
that’s right… instead of buying a good point and shoot… just put that money towards a good camera phone and you’ll be set =)… this offers several advantages, but primarily… you’ll have your camera with you… always…
and then you can take your dslr with you whenever you actually expect to take a photo… and use the camera phone when you don’t expect to take a photo…
just my two cents… er… more like two hundred cents o.O
–Dan @ School
October 30th, 2008 at 5:17 am
hi, i want to know that what is the maximum possible optical zoom possible in DSLRs today? which is this lens and which DSLR it fits? Can you give an idea of the maximum possible zoom by providing a picture at no zoom and then the same picture at maximum zoom??
October 30th, 2008 at 5:18 pm
You need to do a little research on slr’s it seems. The fact that your question asks what it does tells me that you are just starting to consider getting one. A dslr body is just a very good base for your photography tools. The lenses available to use with a dslr are where your big decisions will come. To answer your ? though…the longest telephoto (zoom) lens that I know of would be a Canon 1200mm. If you use it on a 1.6x crop body you will be at 1920mm. You can use a 2x extender with it to make it 3840mm. The cost for this monstrous beast is astronomical. You could put a down payment on a very nice house (in some states you could buy a house for less)for about the same amount you would pay to own a 1200 mm lens…about $90,000. It weighs 36 lbs, it’s almost 3 ft long and the tripod that you need to use it would require you to join a gym. I don’t even know if you can get one anymore. There aren’t even that many that actually get used…Sports Illustrated owns 2 of the few in existence.
So as you can see, your question is really not appropriate being that you are at the beggining stages. I must say though …it is kind of a fun question…you need to ask yourself, what do you want to do with your interest.
October 31st, 2008 at 4:07 am
Let me first thank you for the prompt reply. However, I do not agree that my query is inappropriate and funny. Money is not a problem here. The reason I asked you this question was that it has not been answered anywhere on the internet. Atleast what I know of. Sometimes I want to capture something that is perched high on a mountain or a building but quite far away. For example, an eagle on a highrise building which i have mananged to locate. Now without a powerful zoom lens, i cannot take a close detail of just its head, if i wanted too. I could give you many more examples like these but I suppose you must have got my point. It does not matter if I am about to begin to explore DSLRs.
Can you also tell me how much zoom is 1200mm in terms of X for example 2X, 3x, 5x or 10x or more optical zoom?
October 31st, 2008 at 12:10 pm
12x optical is 432mm. That is the best comparison I can get. Most p & s cameras don’t go past 12x optical zoom. It is not a good comparison though because when you get past about 5 or 6x optical zoom on a p & s the quality is gone. But with a good super telephoto lens attached to a dslr you will achieve good quality right to the end of the zoom range. Or if you are using a prime (fixed focal length) lens even better quality can be achieved. And actually I was wrong about the longest lens. The absolute longest still camera lens on the planet is made by Nikon. It is 4500 mm. I don’t know if it is compatible with tele extenders or not but I do know that there are only 4 in existence and they are approximately 1.2 million dollars. Excuse me if I offended you with my answer but I did not realize that you were so fortunate to be able to say that $ is no issue. I wish I could say that. Anyway ….if you are looking for serious focal length to shoot close ups of birds or dangerous wildlife or anything small that you can’t get close to, you will be fine with 500-600mm’s along with a tele-extender. The bottom line is….camera’s are not telescopes and no matter how long your focal lenth is…you will always want more. Happy shooting.
November 1st, 2008 at 5:33 am
I am so fortunate to have found you that you have answered all my queries so well. thank you. don’t worry, you did not offend me, its just that i felt strange that you found my initial query inappropriate and funny. anyway forget it.
what you think about olympus 570-uz’s 20x optical zoom? Olympus claim that “the SP-570 UZ provides a wealth of creative control without the expense of an SLR”. Do you agree? do you think that their 20x optical zoom along with TCON-17 (1.7x) Tele Conversion Lens + Lens Adapter Tube (CLA-10) will give me great results even though the 570-uz is NOT a DSLR?
I totally agree that i would always want longer and longer focal lengths. i want such a focal length that i should be able to click the black pupil of a bird a mile away. At the same time i am a huge fan of macro photography.
November 3rd, 2008 at 2:44 pm
Shaheen, there is really no comparison between a long optical zoom (like the one you are referring to) and a dslr with a long telephoto lens. The differencene between the 2 will be noticably different right away. Not only in the final results but in the options you will have when shooting. If you want you could do a comparison on your own. Go to a camera shop where they rent camera’s and lenses; Rent a good dslr like a Canon 40d or if they have it a 50d. Along with a 300mm or 400mm lens and tele extender. Of course you will need a tripod for truly sharp results. To answer your other ? about the results from the tele converter and lens adapter tube….You will not get great results….the more adapters and extenders you add, the more quality you will loose…even with a dslr. It really depends on what you are going to be using your photos for. If it is purely for enjoyment and the final result will not be a large print to put in a portfolio or in a frame on a wall somewhere then you will be fine with the stuff you are considering. I have tried the p & s with long optical zoom and the results did not satisfy me. I invested in a dslr and have grown as an amatuer photographer quite a bit. Just the fact that you have a dslr will send you on your way to learning more about photography and will open up a lot more doors as far as what you are able to do. But remember this….just because you have a great expensive camera and the best lenses that money can buy will not make you a better photographer. The most important piece of equipment is what’s behind the camera…you. If you gave Art Wolfe a $9.99 disposable camera from the grocery store and gave an amatuer the best equipment possible and had them shoot the same thing, I bet Art Wolfe would walk away with pictures worthy of gracing the pages of National Geographic. The other guy…he may get lucky and come out with 1 keeper out of 500 shots.
December 26th, 2008 at 3:12 am
Hi, My daughter had a Sony Cybershot DSC P-150 stolen from her. She liked the camera but now wants a digital SLR. Does not take many pictures and size is of course different. What is better? She originally paid close to $500.00 for Cybershot but I don’t want to spend even that much to replace camera. What to do?
January 1st, 2009 at 1:50 am
Wow this is a great post!
I feel that I am a pretty good ameteur photographer with my P&S, mostly with my compositions- but I know I have a LOT to learn! I was contemplating buying a DSLR but wondered if I should and if I was ready? Thanks to everyone here sharing their expertise it helped me make my decision.
Oh, in case you are wondering, I realized that I really NEED to learn the inner workings better of a camera before I can put a DSLR to good use- SO I will be purchasing a high-end ($800) P&S before moving up.
January 21st, 2009 at 9:24 pm
Hi What a fantastic way to gain knowledge from an expert. I have just purchased a 2nd hand Panasonic Lumix DMC FZ5 and by looking at your website I got a number of excellent tips.
Great work team.
Peter Harker Bowen Nth Queensland
January 22nd, 2009 at 5:26 pm
Hai Shaheen,
Once I was in same confusion, ( u can check above Nandh says: December 18th, 2007 at 5:31)
So I keep trying to find out a way, how to find out a right lens according to distance.
And finally I got the formula for that in the website only. Actually this different from your question, but I like to share here.
Now, what you said about (Olympus 570 UZ- 20x) it is a bridge camera.
And it’s also good for under any kind of situation for beginners.
First how to calculate the zoom, which is mentioned in ‘X’.
If, a camera has 10x zoom (i.e. is tele) Then, think what about the wide angel ?
Suppose wide zoom has 26mm / 27mm / 28mm. According to this, it might differs.
E.x. for Zoom ‘ X ’ calculation:
If, Wide angle 26mm, Tele 10x zoom (26 x 10 = 260mm) The lens is 260mm.
If, Wide angle 27mm, Tele 10x zoom (27 x 10 = 270mm) The lens is 270mm.
If, Wide angle 28mm, Tele 10x zoom (28 x 10 = 270mm) The lens is 280mm.
Olympuz 570 UZ -20x (this camera wide 26mm, tele 20x (26 x 20 = 520mm) so, this is 520mm lens.
New launch: (Olympus 590 uz – 26xzoom) (wide 26mm x tele26x = 676mm lens)
Distance in Feet (X) : 20
Subject Size in Feet (Y) : 1
Distance in inches (A) = X * 12 = 20 *12 = 240 inches
Subject size in inches (B) = Y * 12 = 1 * 12 = 12 inches
Magnification (Z) = 1.5 / B = 0.125
(1.5” std. 35mm film camera)
Lens Focal Length in Inches = A / ((1/Z)+1)
=240/((1/0.125)+1)
=240/(8+1)=240/9=26.6667 inches
Lens Focal Length in mm =26.667* 25.4=677.164
Lens Focal Length in mm=677 mm
677mm lens, it will cover the distance & subject.
Thanks & Regards,
Nandhagopal from India.
January 22nd, 2009 at 5:28 pm
Hai Shaheen,
Once I was in same confusion, ( u can check above Nandh says: December 18th, 2007 at 5:31)
So I keep trying to find out a way, how to find out a right lens according to distance.
And finally I got the formula for that in the website only. Actually this different from your question, but I like to share here.
Now, what you said about (Olympus 570 UZ- 20x) it is a bridge camera.
And it’s also good for under any kind of situation for beginners.
First how to calculate the zoom, which is mentioned in ‘X’.
If, a camera has 10x zoom (i.e. is tele) Then, think what about the wide angel ?
Suppose wide zoom has 26mm / 27mm / 28mm. According to this, it might differs.
E.x. for Zoom ‘ X ’ calculation:
If, Wide angle 26mm, Tele 10x zoom (26 x 10 = 260mm) The lens is 260mm.
If, Wide angle 27mm, Tele 10x zoom (27 x 10 = 270mm) The lens is 270mm.
If, Wide angle 28mm, Tele 10x zoom (28 x 10 = 270mm) The lens is 280mm.
Olympuz 570 UZ -20x (this camera wide 26mm, tele 20x (26 x 20 = 520mm) so, this is 520mm lens.
New launch: (Olympus 590 uz – 26xzoom) (wide 26mm x tele26x = 676mm lens)
Try below formula for considering a lens according the distance & subject.
Distance in Feet (X) : 20
Subject Size in Feet (Y) : 1
Distance in inches (A) = X * 12 = 20 *12 = 240 inches
Subject size in inches (B) = Y * 12 = 1 * 12 = 12 inches
Magnification (Z) = 1.5 / B = 0.125
(1.5” std. 35mm film camera)
Lens Focal Length in Inches = A / ((1/Z)+1)
=240/((1/0.125)+1)
=240/(8+1)=240/9=26.6667 inches
Lens Focal Length in mm =26.667* 25.4=677.164
Lens Focal Length in mm=677 mm
677mm lens, it will cover the distance & subject.
Thanks & Regards,
Nandhagopal from India.
January 29th, 2009 at 6:30 am
Great webite Darren – I stumbled across it looking for an answer to a question I had.
For a long time I had a Canon S2-IS, and I grew in interest and ability to where it could no longer do what I wanted to do. But when I had it I was able to make some nice pictures as my knowledge grew. I’ve had my eye on a SLR (Canon 50D), but came across a deal that I absolutely could not refuse on a lightly used Fuji S9100. Nope, it’s not a SLR, but it allows a lot of control over the shots. It’s been fun learning how to adjust things more in-depth to get the shots right, and it’s nice step up from what I was using and still gives me room to grow. I’d have to agree with one of the above posts – in many cases it’s more about your knowledge than your equipment. For example, just because someone can afford a Ferrari doesn’t mean that they’ll be able to outrun BMW’s on a track if they don’t know how to drive it. The point is, keep growing in knowledge and practice, practice, practice. That will do more for your enjoyment of this hobby than dropping a lot of money, discovering you’re not sure (or have no interest in) of how to take full advantage of all the controls to make spectacular pictures. Once you get a feel for what you like to shoot and where you can improve, you can make a solidly educated decision on what equipment to get on the next go around.
February 11th, 2009 at 11:37 am
Great web site. Lots of good info. I have a Lumix DMC FZ7 that has been a wonderful camera. It replaced my Pentax MZ50 film SLR. It has been wonderful to point and shoot with gay abandon and not worry about processing costs. I have just recently upgraded to the Pentax K20 DSLR. Now I have the best of both worlds. Lots of work ahead for me to refamiliarise myself with a true SLR but I look forward to the challange. Despite this, the Lumix will not be too far from hand has it has brilliant manual capabilities but best of all, it will do video…low quality but better than nothing.
February 15th, 2009 at 11:07 am
thank you very much for the very informative article on buyers guide to cameras both point and shoot and dslr. I hope i can start taking good pictures with my dslr. thanks again
April 1st, 2009 at 12:29 am
really enjoy this piece – as I am moving on to my first DSLR soon. :)
April 18th, 2009 at 12:06 am
Thank you very much, I have learned a lot.
So, what do you think about the SONY DSC-HX1 ?
May 25th, 2009 at 7:32 am
Hello there,
I am looking for advice on a camera purchase. I am a mom that loves to take pictures of her kids. My children are in sports and I can’t get enough photos of them. I am still using an old film camera ( it is a Minolta Maxxium 300si) but the pictures come out much clearer and brighter than if I use my son’s digital camera which is a Nikon with 7megapixels and I believe a 5 optical zoom lens. The pictures from his camera tend to turn out either blury or very grainy. Yes, I am well aware this could be my fault. I am not looking to become a pro, I would just like a great camera that will help me to take fantastic pictures of my kids. Maybe have a great shot turned into a poster for their room. Anyway, I don’t know a thing about what to look for so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I would like to learn more about cameras but reading some of your posts, well, it just seems confusing! Help please! Thank you!
May 25th, 2009 at 7:22 pm
First thing….what are you willing to spend on a camera? If your budget is $200-$300 you will want to buy a decent point and shoot digital camera with a good optical zoom range (digital zoom doesn’t matter-once you’re in the digital zoom the quality goes bye-bye) and one with around 10 megapixels so you can print large poster sizes. Also consider the size that you would feel most comfortable with….larger cameras feel more like a camera you can put your hands around…smaller ones are more convenient-you can put it in your purse or pocket. also…get something with a good sized lcd-2.5 or 3 inches. The Canon powershot SX10 IS is 10 megapixels and has a very long 20x optical zoom …but the more you zoom the more you give up in quality with these cameras.
If you’re not too tight on money and you are considering getting a bit more serious (without becoming a pro) then consider buying a DSLR. This takes some learning and practice to know what you’re doing but the capabilities you will have are greater. The cost of a decent DSLR is going to be around $500-$1500 depending on if you buy new or used….check out Craigslist. Look into the Canon Rebel series. Most DSLR’s come with a lens. you will also want to buy a small bag & a memory card or 2…they’re cheap-around $20-$40 for a 2 or 4 gigabyte card. Also…if you are going to be shooting your kids playing sports, a DSLR is going to be a lot more cooperative when it comes to catching action compared to most point and shoots…you usually have to click the shutter and hold the camera for a second or so….with a DSLR you push the shutter button and it is recorded instantly…no shutter lag whatsoever. I hope this helps somewhat….oh…you can always rent a DSLR for a couple days to really be sure you want to spend the money.
Read more: “Should you buy a DSLR or Point and Shoot Digital Camera?#comments#comments” – http://digital-photography-school.com/should-you-buy-a-dslr-or-point-and-shoot-digital-camera#comments#ixzz0GVSuDIGE&A
May 26th, 2009 at 9:19 pm
Hello Ab,
Thank you so much for your reply. I would love to look into purchasing a DSLR camera. I really would not want to lose picture quality due to the zoom on a point and shoot. So if I could bother you one more time, I’d like to ask which DSLR you would recommend for a beginner with room to grow. I know I probably shouldn’t worry much about advanced options seeing as how i don’t really know what I am doing but I would like a camera that is a step or two above average in case I am able to catch on quickly. I would like to be able to hang on to this camera for a long time if I will be spending more money . Thank you again for your time, Sue
May 27th, 2009 at 4:44 am
One thing that I didn’t see in this article was the importance of batteries and making sure that one uses Lithium Ion batteries instead of NiCads. The other thing I didn’t see mentioned is the importance of carrying extra battery packs on location, not just for extra power when a battery runs out of juice, but also if a battery suddenly decides to die on location. There’s nothing worse than losing your battery power without a backup.
Nathan
May 27th, 2009 at 2:02 pm
Hello Sue,
Well…as far as reccomendations on a DSLR you are going to be choosing between Nikon and Canon most likely. There are of course other brands but none have as many lenses to choose from or better image quality…and it’s really all about the lenses…2nd only to the person behind them. When I made my choice from a point and shoot to a DSLR I chose Canon….mainly because I was already familiar with their cameras. For you the choice is up to you…you can’t go wrong with either. The only area that Nikon has that will make any difference to you being that you will be taking pictures of kids in sports is the auto focus system…Nikon has a slight edge over Canon. There are a few other differences but none are much to make a difference. I belong to a photography club and I would say that it is pretty equal as far as Canon users and Nikon. The better images don’t come from the one’s with the better cameras…they come from the better photographers.
So…as far as particular models go….there are a couple of new models just released that are good for video capture as well. The Nikon D5000 (and the Nikon D90)…and the Canon Rebel T1i. They are both a step above entry level DSLR’s and are priced reasonably..around $1,000 with a lens. If you don’t care about video then consider the Canon Rebel XSI; entry level …or the Canon 40D or Canon 50D; both a step above entry level…I recently upgraded from a Canon 40D to a 50D and both are great cameras…the 50D has 15 megapixels compared to 10 for the 40D. If you would like to see some of the images I took with my 40D and my 50D visit my webpage http://lenzfreak.smugmug.com/?preview=1.
Just be sure you pick a lens that has IS …Canon (Image Stabilization) or VR-Nikon…(Vibration Reduction) which will allow you to shoot handheld without worrying too much about a blurry photo result. Also…get somethng with a good zoom range…Canon makes a 55-250mm or a 70-300mm…both have IS. I am not as familiar with Nikon lenses but here is a place you can check them out. I hope this helps you. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/shop/6222/Digital_Cameras_SLR_Digital_Cameras.html
May 27th, 2009 at 11:53 pm
Hi Ab,
Thank you, thank you, thank you for sharing your opinion. I looked at your pictures and I am in awe (and way out of my league)! What a great trip that must have been. My husbands car just died so I will be car searching instead of camera searching for the next week or so. I really appreciate you pointing me in the right direction. Can’t wait to get started! Well, good luck with your future pictures and watch your back around those bears! Thanks again, Sue
June 6th, 2009 at 7:09 am
This is a great article, but I have some questions. Most of my camera hunting will have to be online as I live in the middle of nowhere, but it would be nice to have some questions answered by someone knowledgeable (aka you guys :)) I am mainly interested in shooting macro stuff. I have used just a little Kodak p&s as well as my little sister’s Nikon dslr ( I don’t know the model number, but I know it wasn’t one of the expensive ones as she didn’t spend more than $500 on it). I have trouble getting the crispyness and focus that I want with the p&s, and I found the Nikon to be easy to use and more “camera”ish. I don’t completely suck at photography, but I am not even a real good amateur (think good shots on flickr). I was initially looking for a lower level dslr to have the option of changing lenses, but I wonder if I might be better off spending my money on a nice p&s. I would like some control as I have no problem with learning and experimentation. Any help out there camera people? :)
June 17th, 2009 at 10:12 am
I’ve been looking for a camera and trying to decide between a dSLR and a megazoom. This article and discussion has been very helpful in clarifying the choice. Despite concern that I may be giving up something as to the quality of the images, I think a point and shoot with a long zoom is the better option for me because I don’t want to deal with carrying around and changing lenses and will use the camera far more if I can just pick it up and shoot. I’m interested in the long zoom in anticipation of photographing wildlife on an upcoming trip, and for sports photography. I’ve think I’ve narrowed down the options to the Panasonic Lumix DMC FZ28 (18X zoom, small, light, easy to use — from what I read); the Olympus SP-590 (slightly bigger and heavier but with a 24X zoom that’s reportedly hard to focus when fully extended– but it’s new and there aren’t many reviews out there), and the Canon SX10 IS. I want the camera to be easy to use — but I do want to get good photographs out of it. Can anyone help me figure out which of these three is the best choice? And are there other similar cameras I should be considering? Thanks!
June 17th, 2009 at 12:36 pm
Hello Elaine. I would love to help you but I need to know a few things 1st.
1. What is your budget?
2. What do you plan on doing with your wildlife/sports photographs? Will you be printing and at what size?
3. how much quality are you willing to give up? (this goes along with #2)
June 17th, 2009 at 1:32 pm
Thanks for the quick response!
1. I am planning to spend $300-$500. I’d be willing to spend more if it would get me good quality photos and still meet my other criteria.
2. I will be traveling to Africa later this summer and want a good camera for the trip, with a good zoom so I don’t have to actually walk up close to, say, a lion. As for sports, I plan to use it to photograph family members surfing, playing baseball, basketball. Mostly, I’ll print small photos (4×6 or 5×7), though it’d be great to be able to occasionally print an 8×10. Nothing bigger.
3. As for giving up quality, though, I’m not sure how to answer that. If there were a camera that was as compact, light, and easy to use as a megazoom seems to be, but produced as good quality photographs as a dSLR, that’d be ideal. But I’m strictly an amateur, and mostly, I’d like a camera that makes me look like a better photographer than I am.
June 17th, 2009 at 3:15 pm
Hmmmmm. Interesting challenge. Check out the Canon powershot SX10 IS as a p&s suggestion. It has 20x zoom and 10 megapixels and is around $300. But……..
Oh my god! You are going to Africa!!!!!! Wow…I am jealous. And please, don’t walk up to A LION !
My first thought is to strongly urge you to get an inexpensive DSLR package with a wide to telephoto lens such as a Canon Rebel xsi with 18-55mm lens and also a 55-250mm lens and deal with the heavier camera. (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029X64QU/ref=asc_df_B0029X64QU827077?smid=A163DSNSCVE8H3&tag=shopzilla_rev_1340-20&linkCode=asn) very good deal by the way with the $200 instant rebate. The quality of your images will be much better and you will be able to print a large image of let’s say….A LION. A trip to Africa does not come around too often and photography ops are plentiful for wildlife. However…you will have to deal with more weight (which is not really that heavy considering you will be in Africa) and I know you don’t want that (you should really trade the extra weight for better quality images)
I would say that image quality and sharpness are extremely important factors that you must weigh before making your decision. If you do get a P & S chances are you will not get a hi quality shot zoomed in at 10x, 15x etc. shooting lions in Africa or a head first slide in to 3rd base.
Both of the lenses in the package above have IS-Image stabilization which you definately want. You also need to consider that purchasing a DSLR also means you need to buy memory cards, an extra battery and a bag…which they have for an extra $40 bucks…it’s a photo backpack. You probably wouldn’t have to change lenses too much-you would mainly be shooting with the 55-250mm…if you did want to shoot a landscape or wider angle shot you have your other lens too. You will definately spend over $1,000 on the DSLR package with accessories. I could write all night on the topic….it’s coming down to having to carry more equipment and a heavier camera that costs 3 x’s as much vs. one smaller and lighter camera that still can get you good images if you are not too far away. …but you will definately see a large difference in the DSLR. You will also have a lot more options if you plan to grow as an amatuer photographer. If you have any other ?’s I am happy to give my input.
August 14th, 2009 at 4:54 am
I brought my 1st P/S in 06, then up graded to the Kodak z712 is. which I still use. it’s a good cam, has the pasm functions that gives me the opportunity to create a photo more to my liking. Am in the market for Dslr, for better quality.
August 18th, 2009 at 8:57 pm
This was very helpful. Thanks for scaling down the technical terms. I’m currently camera shopping and have been searching many online guides. This has been the most helpful and objective article I’ve found. Thank y ou.
August 22nd, 2009 at 10:25 am
The comments here have been great!!! I am also looking for a really good camera to take pics of my son playing sports and general fun stuff. I have been looking at the p&s’s, since I do not think I am ready for a dslr. I am willing to spend about $200-$400. Any good suggestions—and anyone know of any good deals, or where I should purchase the camera?
September 7th, 2009 at 7:19 pm
I own an Olympus C750 UZ. This has been a perfect company for me untill now because it can operate as a simple point and shoot camera in auto mode, but it also allows completly manual handling. I’m now ready to take the next step and get a DSLR. The only problem is the price…
However, I do feel the need of improving the quality of my shots, and have more options on things like aperture, iso and so on.
thank you for this post, it was inlighting.
October 2nd, 2009 at 4:12 am
Having owned a Canon PowerShot A620 and a PowerShot S3is (both having PASM and scene modes), I discovered that the maximum shutter speeds of 1/2500sec and 1/3200sec respectively cannot be achieved at certain focal lengths and larger apertures.
I first thought Canon deliberately restricted the maximum shutter speeds as not to compete with their dSLR models, and then I read that it turned out to be more of a design constraint in its iris and electronic shutter combo.
After five years of experience with P&S digicams (even using manual exposure settings sometimes), I finally saw the difference with dSLRs – their constant maximum shutter speed across all apertures and the higher quality bokeh in portraits. It was something none of my PowerShots could achieve (except for my S3is being able to blur out backgrounds but only at long focal lengths) and I decided to explore dSLR territory.
I’m happy with my EOS 450D, recently bought in July 2009 and was amazed at the difference it made with portrait shots. The only thing that I’m not happy is that unlike fixed lens digicams, sooner or later I got tempted with the thought of buying more and more lenses.
Although a extremely rewarding pastime, dSLR photography can turn into a very expensive hobby. With fixed lens compacts, once you buy one – that’s pretty much about it. Aside from the Lensmate 52mm adapter I got for my S3is (for fitting a circular PL filter), I was never tempted to buy Canon’s optional wide angle or teleconverters.
The S3is lacks a hot shoe, so there wasn’t a need to buy a proper flash unit. Canon does have a slave flash unit for its PowerShot A and S-series compacts, but it requires to be mounted on a bracket. It’s too much of a hassle to attach the slave flash and it’s a fixed, forward firing type – no tilt or swivel capability.
That said, I’m glad that I decided to buy a dSLR for the sheer experience and true enjoyment of photography – at the same time having compacts digicams for ease of carrying around. :-)
October 21st, 2009 at 1:45 pm
Thanks for a great forum and great information. I am a caterer/consultant. I have a lot of handy and talented friends with great equipment who have taken great photos for me but friends are gonna help so much ’til soon their interest in my entrepreneurship will wear out. I am a complete novice. I’d like to be self sufficient and I have said photography friends willing to give me lessons. If I buy my own camera and learn I won’t be at the mercy of favours or hiring out!
Needs:
Stills predominately
print worthy for posters, promo cards, business cards, tags, event decor, advertisements
web shots including:
details as big as a banquet hall decked out or, a room full of party goers enjoying my luscious foods, to as fine a detail as the edge of that all natural, whole grain, vegan pie crust I finally perfect into a light and flaky masterpiece or the swarovski I’ve hand sewn into a bride’s bouquet.
I don’t necessarily have a budget but I need to be realistic (no i don’t have 90K or 1.2M burning a hole in my pocket! eek), catering has a lot of expenses and I’m expanding currently but I know I’ll save in the long run because photo shoots and buying pics from photographers at events I do are costly!
If I can use it on exciting moments in life as well, great!
What should I get?
October 26th, 2009 at 5:09 pm
I have 5 ultra zooms (18x or higher). I call them tweener cameras (in between point and shoot compacts and DSLRs). In my opinion, in that category of camera, Panasonic produces the best quality images. Nikon’s vibration reduction is not as good as Panasonic’s image stabilization and I have shaky hands and tend to sway a little when trying to stand perfectly still. Olympus ultra zooms produce soft images. Kodak has an extra step change some settings and the color isn’t that good. I can’t remember why I didn’t try a Canon. It could just be they were the last to go ultra zoom or it could be people were complaining about some feature when I was ready to buy. I do not use the movie making feature of my cameras. Ultra zooms have a sports preset if you need to take a quick action photo and cut out motion blur. I use the sports preset for fidgety birds but it would probably work just as well with fidgety kids. Otherwise, I mostly use aperture priority. I almost never use Auto. The Auto setting with any ultrazoom always seems to produce overexposed photos and crazy depth of field. I play with exposure a lot. All of my ultra zooms have viewfinders or I wouldn’t have purchased them. I only use the LCD to review and discard photos at the end of the day and I have to take my glasses off to do it. For me, it’s the lug factor with DSLRs. I’m not lugging around a few lenses and a tripod. Also, with finding birds in their natural environment, there’s no time to change lenses. The bird is on the ground one second, in a distant tree the next and then he’s taking off – running, flying or swimming. My photogtaphy improved over my rookie year, not because of the camera, but because I got out more and used the Panasonic FZ 28 and 35, consistently. It reduced my “think before you press” time. Whatever you decide, just get out and use the camera a lot so steps/decisions are automatic and you can change some settings without looking.
October 27th, 2009 at 5:59 am
Hi,
I am a mother of two (one tolder and one infant) kids. I want to be able to capture great pics, fast even then they are moving in almost any condition or location. I do not want to spend a fortune (or half of their colleget tuition, lol). Can someone help me find a camera that will help me capture my kids every action and still stay within the price range of $160-$200. I hope this is not unrealistic.
Thanks
October 31st, 2009 at 8:46 am
@Lemonginger,
Firstly, my disclaimer: I don’t work for Canon and neither am I a professional photographer or professional reviewer. :-)
After reading your interesting comments and prerequisites for your first digicam, may I strongly suggest that you consider Canon’s latest PowerShot G11 (I’ve just bought one two days ago and am extremely pleased with it).
Here’s why:
1. The Canon G11 is neither bulky nor expensive like a dSLR. Of course, dSLRs when you are proficient with handling them, yield much more superior picture quality than the average compact or ultra compact. Of course, size is relative – so if you’re comparing the G11 to say, the PowerShot A590is or the SX200is the G11 is obviously bigger by comparison.
2. The swivel-out LCD screen can be useful when taking photos of your dishes or people from odd angles which is hard to do with fixed LCD screens. If you don’t like photographing with the LCD jutting out, you can easily fold it back, flush with the camera’s back – just like with a fixed LCD monitor. The G11’s 2.8″ screen is adequately large for composing photos and its 400,000 dot resolution is tack sharp for playback viewing.
3. Photographing food is best accomplished in natural ambient light or indirect flash. The G11 has a more sensitive sensor compared to most compact P&S cameras and can take surprisingly good photos in low light. Of course, dSLRs are a lot better when coupled with “fast” lenses, but such high performance lenses are heavy, bulky and often cost more than the G11 itself!
4. The G11 has a “Smart Auto” mode specially tailored for novice users. It can evaluate not less than 22 photographic “situations” in real time and automatically adjust the camera’s settings depending on the situation. As you get more proficient with the camera (and photography), you can explore the “Creative Modes”, including aperture, shutter priority and manual modes. All G-series Canons (with the exception of the discontinued G7 model) permits you to capture in RAW format in addition to the standard JPG picture format. You can start off with shooting in the normal JPG format and progress to RAW as you get more experienced. :-)
5. Don’t like how the built-in flash makes pics of your culinary work appear “flat”? You buy the inexpensive Canon Speedlite EX270 external flash. With its vertical bounce capability and more powerful flash output, you can experiment with bounce flash techniques (indirect flash) that can give a more natural looking image than with direct flash. Of course, Canon’s better 430 EX II and 580 EX II strobe units are more powerful and flexible than the 270EX, but they are expensive, heavy and can make handling the G11 a bit tricky. There’s also Canon’s specialized flash units for serious close up flash photography, like the MT42EX ring light (requires a separately sold adapter for the G11), but I doubt you’ll want to get into that. But it’s nice to know that several accessories meant for Canon’s digital SLRs can be used on the G11.
6. Should you someday decide to upgrade to a Canon dSLR such as the EOS series, the Speedlite EX270 flash can still be used with your future EOS/Digital Rebel series. Of course, by this time you may be already buying a 430EX II or 580EX II flash. As a minor side note, I am pleased to learn that the RC60-E3 wired remote control switch I bought for my EOS 450D is also compatible with my new Canon G11. :-)
7. The Canon G-series cameras are renowned for their image quality and features by many professional and serious amateur photographers alike (most likely they’re existing Canon dSLR users) as a smaller and lightweight back up camera. The G-series is also a boon when they don’t feel like lugging their heavy dSLR equipment around. Canon dSLR users are likely to own the better Speedlite flash strobes, therefore they can use their existing Canon flash units on a G-series camera. The G-lineup (except for the G7) can shoot pictures in RAW format (as I mentioned earlier), a format favored by pros and advanced amateur dSLR users.
Price-wise, the G11 is slotted in between Canon’s entry level dSLR (the Rebel XS or EOS 1000D) and the cheaper A-series PowerShots. It’s also priced (strangely) similarly to Canon’s PowerShot SX20is, which is a “bridge” or ultra-zoom camera, but in my opinion the G11 should fit your requirements better than the heavy and bulky SX20is.
I was also pleasantly surprised by the G11’s affordable introduction price – I initially expected it to cost the same as Canon’s EOS 1000D (Rebel XS) with the bundled (cheap) 18-55mm kit lens. People who opine that the G11 (or the recent G10)’s price is expensive don’t realize that the G11 is actually a lot cheaper than the old (but still formidable) Canon G6 from 2004 and is also cheaper than the PowerShot SX1is ultra-zoom.
Admittedly I’m a huge Canon camera fan. I’ve owned several digital and film cameras in the past – a Canon AV-1 (film), EOS 620 (film), PowerShot A80, A620, S2is and presently, an old Nikon EM (film), S3is, G11, EOS 450D and a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-W150 ultra-compact.
My views of the new G11 are based on the literally tens of thousands of photos I’ve taken since 2004 using all those digicams combined. Through personal experience I have learned the pros and cons of each model that I’ve owned – not just features and performance-wise but their image quality characteristics too.
Personally I would rate the G11’s image quality somewhat in between my former PowerShot A620 and my EOS 450D dSLR (but I think it’s a bit closer to the EOS’s image quality).
The G11 is by no means a perfect compact digicam (there’s no such thing as a perfect digital camera). Continuous shooting is at a disappointing snail’s pace (about 1.1 frames/sec max) and is not a suitable camera for photographing sporting events or action packed scenes. While its competition may offer HD or full-HD video recording, the G11 could only muster the old standard, 640×480 pixel video resolution.
Canon could have designed the G11 with full HD video recording, but I guess the company targeted this model for advanced still photographers who don’t really care about video recording (like me) rather than the casual user who prefer full HD video capability at the expense of image quality (as with the slightly pricier PowerShot SX1is ultrazoom). It’s also possible that if the G11 had full HD recording (like the PowerShot SX1is), the eventual price of the G11 would be a lot higher making it less affordable.
As for the sheer bulky appearance of the G11, the camera actually feels lighter than its looks suggest. Casual and first-time users are apt to make the bulk/weight as an issue, but seasoned dSLR photographers will tell you that actually prefer a bit of heft in a camera. A compact digicam that is too light doesn’t feel solid in your hands and a bit of extra weight helps to steady the camera for hand held shooting.
I’ve read some users’ reviews as saying that the G11 is “complicated to use”, but in actuality it’s not. In all likelihood, they graduated from a basic point-and-shoot model therefore all the myriad features in the G11 look like they have to learn rocket science. :-D
Size-wise, the G11 won’t fit into your pants pocket easily, but it makes an ideal all-around general purpose travel camera. So there you have it – the G11 can be used casually using its easy “Smart Auto” mode or as creatively with its other modes (like manual mode). You decide how “complicated” or “simple” the G11 is going to be for you, not the other way around!
There’s no such thing as “one size fits all” digital camera.
Small and stylish ultracompacts are pocketable but they generally don’t yield exceptional image quality. dSLRs are the exact opposite – they take the best photos (especially mated to really expensive lenses) but are expensive and large. Bridge cameras (ultrazooms) offer you the convenience of one single long zoom lens, but their image quality still cannot surpass that of dSLRs. Ultrazooms are generally bigger than compact digicams, but smaller than dSLRs.
Therefore based on the scenarios and requirements you’ve posted, it seems like the G11 should fit your bill nicely.
Lastly – don’t just take my word for it. Sure, there are many other excellent competing point-and-shoot digicams, like Panasonic for instance but if you need to have just one camera (for now), I implore you to check out the online reviews on the G11 first and perhaps, try one out at a local store.
Hope this helps and I apologize for the very long read! :-)
November 2nd, 2009 at 9:52 am
I am looking to get a DSLR in the near future. I have been an avid (although ametuer) photographer for about ten years and want to move up from a point and shoot. My dad had SLR cameras/lenses before digital came around and thinks I should get a camera body and skip the kit lense and just get one really good lense. I am interested in taking pictures of wildlife (Yellowstone National Park is coming up this summer as a vacation), but at the same time my husband and I are starting a family, so I want a camera that will be great for family and home pictures. I am looking at a Tamron 18-270mm lense instead of getting the kit lense, but wasn’t sure if that was going to work for everything I am looking at. I know I have lots of research to do still, but was hoping for some input into what the best DSLR might be and what you thought about single lense versus kit and additional lenses. Thank you so much for the help…your articles have already helped a great deal!
November 3rd, 2009 at 11:44 pm
I am an amateur hobbyist with dreams of someday taking it further. People have told me I have a creative eye and should quit my day job. I know I’m not ready for that. Which is why I love this website.
I have owned the Canon S5 IS for nearly two years. (Actually, some of the information on this site helped me choose this camera as my step up from a Kodak compact digital that worked very well).
Although I enjoy using my S5, I find that the digital zoom does not meet my needs. The camera occasionally chooses to auto focus on something other than my subject, and every picture seems to need adjusting. It does very, very well outdoors, but it’s sometimes too slow to capture birds in motion or wildlife running by. I have shot two weddings for friends, and other than the occasional out-of-focus subject or grainy, pixelated zoomed-in candid picture, it’s done fairly well. Ironically, it seems to work very well in Portrait setting, even for things not considered portraits!
However, I am planning to upgrade soon. I LOVE outdoor photography, seem to be getting into weddings (just got another request), and like spontaneous, candid, zoomed-in shots. The Canon S5 IS limits me, particularly in zooming. It just isn’t good enough, and after cropping, the quality is horrible. Perhaps I’m doing something wrong?
I’m considering the Nikon D90 or the Nikon D5000 (both with lens kits). I have a lot of older SLR equipment that I’m hoping might work, as well, such as Cokin filters, various lenses, and other toys I’ve collected prior to the digital camera frenzy.
Can’t make up my mind, and I still have a lot to learn! But, for what I need from a camera, I DO KNOW that my P&S — even with all the manual controls — is limiting my style of photography.
If anyone has any suggestions for me, I’m all ears. My budget is approximately is no more than $1,500 including lens.
This website has been very helpful, and I’m anxious to keep reading. Thanks to all for their suggestions and dedication to providing real answers for real users.
November 4th, 2009 at 6:18 am
Hi Cheryl,
I have the same problem as you do.
I own a PowerShot S3is and it’s served me well since mid 2006. It was an upgrade
from my previous S2is and I got the S3is because its sleek black color looked more like a
dSLR rather than a toy. :-)
Your S5is has the newer DiGiC III image processor (vs DiGiC II in the S2/S3), a larger 2.5″ LCD, a hotshoe for external flash units, a bigger 8MP sensor, face detection AF and had its ISO extended one stop further to ISO 1600. However it shares the same zoom lens from the old S2is.
All the three Canon ultrazooms had one common bane: the use of a tiny 1/2.5″ CCD sensor.
In the S5is, the sensor has a pixel density of 32MP per square centimeter. That’s pretty crowded and meant that less light reaches the tightly packed individual
photodiodes.
Why did Canon retain the same 1/2.5″ sensor instead of increasing its size? The answer
is: to achieve the same maximum effective focal length of 432mm without having to
redesign and fit a larger and heavier zoom lens.
Since the camera’s 12x zoom is 72mm at the telephoto end, the field-of-View “crop factor”
of the camera is 6x (432mm divided by 72mm). That’s how Canon managed to achieve a (then)
whopping max focal length of 432mm (35mm film equiv). Now you know why compact P&S
cameras can achieve 140mm focal lengths with relatively small lenses! :-)
You didn’t mention the S5is AF modes you used to shoot wildlife, but your camera’s AF has three modes: Face Detect AF, FlexiZone and Center AF. I’m guessing that you didn’t use the Center AF mode, which meant that your S5is often focused on other objects, perhaps the nearest ones – that you didn’t want.
To switch to Center AF mode, press your Set button until the center rectangle turns white instead of green (green means FlexiZone AF). Once your S5is is set to Center AF, it should only focus on whatever’s at the center of your viewfinder or LCD display. If it can’t lock onto your desired subject, it usually means there’s not enough contrast or light for the camera to focus properly.
Digital zoom is found in most, if not all non-dSLR cameras. It’s a cheap means of getting a tighter shot at the expense of image quality. You won’t find digital zoom in dSLRs because of this.
What digital zoom does is amplifying the individual pixels that your sensor receives, therefore images will look blurry and pixelated. Your S5is however, has a “safety zoom” feature which warns you the point where your images will start to degrade. Whatever you do, don’t exceed that limit (it’s indicated in your viewfinder). Another option is NOT to use digital zoom at all. Instead, shoot with the largest resolution available using just the optical zoom. Crop the part that you want in your computer and discard the rest of the picture.
All zoom lenses tend to yield softer images and suffer from focusing difficulties at the telephoto end. Zoom lenses are handy because you don’t need to switch lenses (in a dSLR) but there’s a price to be paid: less-than-sharp images. That’s why prime (fixed focal length) telephoto lenses are often favored by professional photogaphers – they are much sharper because prime lenses aren’t complex like zoom lenses. The catch is that you’re stuck at that focal length and you have to move closer to or farther from the subject to compose.
Stepping into dSLR territory for the first time is usually a headache for the novice. I’d suggest that you start off with a decent (not necessarily fancy) dSLR body and invest in a good, sharp lens instead of the other way around.
I prefer Canon myself because even their basic models (e.g. Rebel XS, XSi and T1i) are made in Japan. Except for the upscale models, lower end Nikons like the D90 are made in Thailand to help lower their end prices.
While it’s not necessarily a bad thing, but as far as dSLRs are concerned, I would expect dSLR bodies to be made in Japan. Low cost P&S cameras are another story, Canon, Nikon and Sony all have overseas factories in China, Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand to take advantage of cheaper labor.
If you like Canon, the Rebel XSi (aka EOS 450D) delivers a lot of camera for the beginner. Don’t bother with the slightly cheaper Rebel XS (EOS 1000D), for just USD100 more (or thereabouts), the XSi gives more bang for the buck. Although the entry level Rebel XS was introduced after the XSi, the latter is still more popular amongst novices and seasoned dSLR photographers alike.
(And if you buy a Canon Speedlite flash, you’ll be pleased to know that you can also use it on your present S5is!) :-)
I’d suggest that you read up the many professional reviews on budget dSLRs. Pay attention to the image quality, especially taken at high ISO speeds. Some cameras are sharper, some noisier, some have too agressive Noise Reduction that details get smudged, etc.
Wishing you happy dSLR hunting! :-)
November 4th, 2009 at 7:57 am
Hi Jen,
I was initially intrigued by Tamron’s super wide ratio (15x) 28-270mm zoom lens (hey, they have an even longer version now: 28-300mm!).
I’ve read mixed reviews of the Tamron – some say it’s a godsend while others aren’t optimistic with its image quality at certain focal lengths, especially on the extreme telephoto side. AF performance is also rather slow due to the complexity of the zoom.
Furthermore, at 270mm the largest aperture you’ll get is a rather slow f/6.3, which means your viewfinder will be darker at that point, you’ll also have to boost your ISO (increased noise), need to use higher shutter speeds and you get less shallow depth of field.
I did consider the Canon EF-S 18-200mm IS zoom lens for my Rebel XSi but when I found out its price (and balked at it), I ended up with the much more affordable EF-S 55-250mm IS lens instead with a lots of change to spare. Obviously, the 18-200mm option alleviates the need to swap lenses – so it’s very convenient for traveling light and you’re less likely to get dust into your sensor as you’re not changing lenses.
Coupled with my 18-55mm IS kit lens, the total focal length range I have now is 18-250mm. The EF-S 55-250mm is actually a light lens, it’s not much of a back breaker to carry it along in my camera bag. I find that for general photography, I use my 18-55mm more often than the 55-250mm.
I’ve read articles that narrower zoom ratio lenses generally give sharper images than super-wide ratios. Perhaps it might be prudent to buy a decent and affordable short ratio tele zoom, e.g. 70-300mm and see if the performance and results please you. Upgrade only when you feel it’s money well spent on a much better telephoto zoom lens.
Anyway, a random check on Amazon shows the average price of a brand new Tamron 28-270mm DI II VC lens hovers around USD1,300. Might be a a good idea to buy a pre-owned one for a few hundred bucks and try it out. If you don’t like it, at least your losses would be minimal.
Just my two cents. :-)
November 12th, 2009 at 1:46 am
Thanks, I think that I will be going with a SLR. Great article
November 12th, 2009 at 7:41 am
Thanks Stratman…I am still looking at lens and cameras, but am hoping to at least get a DSLR for Christmas…just trying to decide if I should ask for just the body and save the extra $100 towards a lens, or just get a kit lens on the camera and save for more later.
Any ideas?!? Also, what are people’s opinions/feelings about the Canon XSi (which is my favorite thus far in my research and hands on tests)?
November 12th, 2009 at 7:18 pm
Jen,
As Canon dSLRs bodies go, if you need video recording capability (I don’t!), the Rebel T1i has it (along with Face Detect AF, DiGIC 4, an extra 3 Megapixels more) but currently being the flagship model in the budget Canon dSLR range, it’s more expensive. On the opposite end the Rebel XS is slightly cheaper than the XSi, but IMHO the Rebel XSi gives you better value in the long run.
Usually people who buy just the body alone have the higher quality (and more expensive) lenses in mind or that they already own such lenses. (Same-brand lenses are generally superior to third party brands). The EF-S 18-55mm kit lens is quite OK for its build and optical quality, if you don’t mind starting off with a kit lens. Its image quality is neither terribly soft nor terribly sharp either.
I’d suggest that you also pick up a Canon EF 50mm 1.8 II prime lens as it is the cheapest in the entire range of Canon lenses. While it’s not particularly sharp at wide open apertures but stopped down a bit, it gives amazingly sharp images for its low price. It’s very lightweight and affordable, about 3.5 times cheaper than the next-in-line EF 50mm 1.4 USM.
I know a few guys who have the EF 50mm 1.8 II despite owning Canon’s costly L-series lenses. I asked them why they bought it: It’s cheap, yields surprisingly good images (at middle apertures), doesn’t bog them down with weight and if it accidentally breaks, well…the financial loss isn’t that bad. Of course there are much sharper portrait lenses from Canon (the modestly priced EF-S 60mm USM macro is a good choice) but for the low price of the EF 50mm 1.8 II, one can’t complain of its shortcomings. Great for low light shootings and casual portraits.
Canon also offers the Rebel XSi (EOS 450D) with the bundled with the 18-200mm IS kit zoom for certain markets in Asia (not sure if this bundle is available in the U.S.) but due to the lens’ high price this kit version actually costs more than the more upscale EOS 40D with the 18-55mm IS lens. The camera store where I bought my EOS 450D said that most of his customers who could afford the the 18-200mm IS kit bundle preferred the EOS 40D.
If you prefer to buy the XSi body alone and select the lens individually, AND you’re on a budgetary restraint, I’d recommend that you look into the focal lengths that you’re more likely to use and spend more on such lenses.
For example, if you’re into landscape or indoor photography , choose a better wide angle zoom lens with larger apertures.
For people shots (portraits), spend more on a better standard-to-short telephoto zoom or prime lens. If wildlife photography is your reason for buying a dSLR, look for a very good zoom lens in the 70-300mm focal range.
When I browse the photo equipment classifieds, I find that people who are selling their lenses cite severely under-utilized them as the #1 reason, with upgrading to better lenses the #2 motive, while switching brands or to Canon full frame bodies (if they’re selling EF-S lenses) third. Many people rush into buying their (often expensive) dream lens and end up selling them later.
BTW, if you’re still interested in a single general purpose travel zoom lens, the Canon EF-S 18-200mm IS is still a decent all-rounder. I wouldn’t buy it brand new, but would look for a used one in good shape. It’s handy when I just want to sling my top-loading case and not the entire backpack, but the 18-200mm’s not my immediate priority now.
On the subject of user’s comments, you can check out Canon’s site here: http://tinyurl.com/4r4knh.
Good luck with your purchase! :-)
December 7th, 2009 at 9:12 pm
Being a complete newbie in the DSLR arena I just recently purchased the Nikon D3000 after retiring my faithful Canon IXUS 850 IS. I have found much satisfaction while using the DSLR even though it is a little bit more larger to carry around. This site has been a great inspiration actually and I also penned my 2 cents in a recent blog post as well: http://preview.tinyurl.com/yebcqnb
Thanks! :)
December 23rd, 2009 at 9:53 pm
i was really confused before reading this article. actually i was planning to buy point and shoot camera but in my mind some confusion was there about these 2 different categories, but now i m sure that i will buy DSLR only…
thanx a lot for these informations.
December 24th, 2009 at 1:37 am
@ Tejendra:
Your choice whether to buy a dSLR or P&S camera depends on your needs and how often you take photos. DSLRs give the best image quality with the right lens combination, but they’re bulky, heavy and conspicuous. In public places like shopping malls for instance, security guards are very quick to spot someone toting a big, black dSLR with a long lens.
Before 9/11, security personnel wouldn’t bother with tourists and hobbyist photographers shooting with dSLRs. Nowadays, in certain places anyone being seen taking photos with a dSLR is viewed with utmost suspicion. You’re less likely to be spotted if you use a compact P&S instead. In a crowd of non-photographers, people take photos with their cellphones and compact cameras. Anyone with a dSLR will certainly stand out from the crowd.
If you’re at Starbucks and take pics with a small and stealthy P&S compact, nobody will pay much attention unless you use flash. Using a dSLR automatically invites undue attention to you. If the store manager or staff don’t know you personally, they may chase you out of the premises.
Security and paranoia issues aside, many owners of dSLRs also own a prosumer compact, such as the Canon PowerShot G10/G11 or S90 as their second camera. Not everyone relishes the idea of lugging their dSLR and lenses around, e.g. for hiking or light travel – so they would bring their compacts instead.
DSLRs are expensive equipment. When the situation doesn’t demand it, I’d rather leave my EOS 450D at home and take my G11 with me. If I don’t bring my G11, my Sony Cyber-shot W150 is always with me for unexpected photographic opportunities (it’s much smaller than the G11).
When it comes to cameras, I discovered that there’s no such thing as “one size fits all”. There’s a proper time and place for big, bulky dSLRs and small ultra-compacts. :-)
December 25th, 2009 at 11:26 am
I’ve got a point and shoot, and the main favourite about is that you can film videos with it on the double. Its very excellent for security purposes, catching it in the blue. The picture quality of something is based on how knowlegable the user is.
Point and shoot is exactly what it is, point and shoot. You’ll never be able to do that with a DSLR without holding your camera like a bazooka. On top of that, you don’t need an expensive tripod for point and shoots because of how lightweight they are.
December 26th, 2009 at 3:27 am
Hi All!
I got a brand new Canon XSi for Christmas this morning. I have already starting taking pictures. I love the new camera. My birthday is in less than two weeks and my husband offered to buy me a lens to go with my camera for my birthday present. I have been researching for quite some time and am now looking at additional input from others on what lens I should look into. I want a great lens with a long zoom range as I will be heading out west this summer for vacation and plan to take pictures of everything. I also want a great Macro lens for taking close up pictures of flowers, insects and small animals as we live on a farm and have a huge selection of interesting things to photograph. I have a pretty good idea of what I want for a long range lens (looking at the Tamrom 28-270mm or the Canon 18-200mm). No idea what I really should be looking at for a Macro lens. Any input or ideas? I would love to hear it…thanks so much! Happy Holidays to all!
December 26th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
@ Jen,
Congratulations on your Rebel XSi! :-)
I presume your XSi kit comes with the EF-S 18-55mm IS zoom, which is a pretty standard kit zoom. The other kit comes with the EF-S 18-200mm IS, which is actually cheaper than buying the body + 18-200mm separately, which is an option for certain markets. In Japan, the XSi (aka Kiss X2) comes with two lenses – the EF-S 18-55mm IS and EF-S 55-250mm IS.
I got the EF-S 55-250mm IS separately on eBay and it’s a decent piece of glass despite its low price. It won win any awards, but many Rebel XSi and T1i owners have this very affordable lens as their beginner’s zoom. The other lens in the same price range is the old EF 75-300mm III USM, which lacks image stabilization.
Between the two, I’d recommend the 55-250mm for its IS feature. You’ll find the image stabilization useful with the lens zoomed out and shooting with low shutter speeds, without needing a tripod. You’ll lose just 50mm worth of focal length compared to the 75-300mm, but at the telephoto end it’s hard to frame pictures hand held.
I haven’t tested the Tamron 18-270mm VC lens but I’ve read mixed opinions about it. Generally you’ll be sacrificing sharpness and fast apertures with long zoom ratio lenses for convenience. They’re complex to build and cost more than shorter ratio zooms. Professional wildlife and sports photographers don’t use such 15x zoom ratios for this reason. At 270mm, the Tamron will give you a maximum aperture of f/6.3, which means your viewfinder will be a bit dark and you’ll need high shutter speeds and/or high ISOs.
When it comes to resale value, same-brand lenses sell for a better price than third party brands. Canon EF L-series lenses hold their value best compared to non-L EF lenses while EF-S (“S” stands for short backfocus) lenses usually have low resale values.
A good idea is to resort to lens rental services such as LensRentals. This way you can try out the EF-S 18-200mm or any other zoom and macro lenses that you like for a few days.
As for macro lenses, go for lenses that offer a true 1:1 magnification. The EF 100mm 2.8 macro USM comes with pretty good reviews from owners and reviewers like. It’s good for taking pics of butterflies and small animals that scurry away (or dangerous animals like snakes) if you get too close.
Another alternative is the new Tamron 60mm 2.0 macro, which is priced competitively against Canon’s EF-S 60mm 2.8 USM macro. The EF-S doubles as an excellent portraiture lens and is ideal for product photography where you don’t need a longer working distance.
Remember that when it comes to lenses, you get exactly what you pay for. Buying brand new, quality lenses is a big commitment. Many beginners opt for used lenses to minimize the risk of buyer’s remorse in case they find their purchase becomes the proverbial white elephant.
Hope this helps and happy holidays to you too! :-)
January 25th, 2010 at 7:13 pm
This discussion has been extremely helpful! I have taken note of some cameras mentioned here, but there are still too many on my list, and I need to narrow it down.
I currently have an old point and shoot pocket camera, have had it for over four years, and in the past maybe two years now, I have been getting increasingly unsatisfied, to the point now that I hate the camera. The quality of pictures, quality of video, manual options/settings, etc. It’s just MUCH too basic, and not good enough AT ALL.
I am thinking that the evf/powerzoom camera would be the best way to go – a nice middle ground.
No heavy lugging around, no lens addiction/changing (haha), and I just don’t think I NEED an slr – I’m not trying to be a pro. I just want a serious camera, not a toy, something that’ll give me great quality, but is still relatively light.
I’m looking to spend around $400.
Decent quality video is important to me. Also, something that won’t disappoint me in low light/night time.
Would like a viewfinder and a screen. Also something that isn’t slow, as my current oldie is very slow.
Anyone have any input?
January 29th, 2010 at 4:13 am
@ kat.
A decent bridge or ultrazoom camera will serve nicely if you’re not into serious photography. Bear in mind that EVF ultrazooms generally don’t yield better results than true dSLRs, especially for low light, high ISO shots as they use tiny CCD or CMOS sensors found in P&S pocket cameras.
I’ve been using Canon PowerShot S2 and S3 IS since 2005 and I can tell you for a fact that apart from the built-in telephoto zoom lens, ultrazoom cameras don’t give you better image quality compared to the Panasonic Lumix LX3, PowerShot S90 or PowerShot G11 for low light, high ISO shots. I found the S3 IS optically limiting in some situations and decided to try a dSLR for a change.
That said, I stil keep my old S3 IS. As it has tiny dimensions, it’s useful when I need the telephoto power in good lighting when my 450D is too conspicuous and bulky to bring along.
And contrary to popular belief, dSLRs are not just for “professionals”.
Many novice shutterbugs are happy with affordable, entry level dSLRs from Nikon, Canon and Sony for that matter. You can tell serious amateurs and professional photographers from beginners and hobbyists on a tight budget from their shooting techniques and the dSLR model, lens and gear that they use.
(It is highly unlikely you will spot a professional photographer using a Canon Rebel XS with a kit lens for a wedding photo shoot OR a novice with a Canon 1Ds Mk III mated to an EF 24-105mm 4L zoom lens)
For your budget, I would suggest that you consider the excellent Panasonic Lumix FZ35 if you want RAW shooting capability but won’t be using a hot shoe mounted, external flash or the Canon PowerShot SX20 IS for its versatility (supports external flash but no RAW image format).
Be sure to follow the video tours at the end, they’ll help you visualize how the cameras handle and function in real life. Both are on more-or-less equal terms as far as fixed lens, ultrazoom cameras are concerned – and around your expected price range.
Good luck!
February 1st, 2010 at 10:43 am
Hi ya’ll,
Sooo, I read through all of the comments and now I’m super confused. Please help.
I am currently camera-less so I really need help. A quick rundown of my experience and all that:
I started off with a Kodak Advantix LONG ago. (Yea, I know..those were lame). Then around 2005, I got my first P&S; the Casio Exilim, mostly because at that time, it was the first flat, slim, cute one. After that got stolen in 2008, I got another Casio..I think the Vx7 or Ex7.. That one was an ok camera, although I loved all the different settings it had. (ebay, food, and pets especially)
I travel A LOT because of my husband’s job. In the past year or so, we’ve been to over 6 countries. We also get moved around a lot…so I have a lot of stuff to photograph. A couple of months ago while in Bali, my camera died. I don’t know what happened; it made an odd whirring sound and then just quit on me. Right in the middle of vacation. :( Luckily the hubby has a pretty good camera on his cellphone (N97)…so it wasn’t TOO bad.
Anyhow, I’ve been wanting to get a DSLR for a while now. I’ve really been looking at the Canon EOS 1000D, or in America, I think its called the Rebel XS. But, the thing is, I’ve never really used one, and have no idea where to begin.
I would like to take nice photographs when I travel/move to new and exciting places. Also, I’m an artist and I sell my paintings, so I need better pictures of them. One more thing I would use the camera for is my sister’s bakery. Taking pics of cookies, cupcakes, and wedding cakes…etc. <–but not so much, since I only go home every 3-4 months.
My budget is around $650. For now, at least. I can spend another 2-300ish in a few months if need be. Should I get the Rebel/EOS 1000d??
Thanks in advance for all ya'lls help.
February 2nd, 2010 at 4:20 am
@amna,
The EOS 1000D is a good entry level Canon dSLR (you may also want to consider the EOS 450D for its bigger 3″ LCD screen and it’s not much more expensive than the 1000D) but you have to weigh some issues with any dSLR.
If you are an avid photographer and enjoy the experience of taking photos with a dSLR, get one by all means. If dSLR photography is going to be your new hobby, it can get very expensive. You start off with the kit lens, outgrow it and then start looking for better optics. You’ll soon realize that high quality lenses don’t come cheap and some cost more than the 1000D starter kit itself!
However, if your aim is to get a decent camera without the bulk and weight of dSLRs, there are quite a few high end P&S cameras that can take awesome images. Consider for example, the Panasonic Lumix LX3, Canon G10/G11 compacts which take better images than the average point-and-shoots with some dSLR-like flexibility.
There’s no point in buying a dSLR only to realize that taking it with you is a cumbersome and worrisome thing.
Have a look at the Flickr photo pools and browse their discussion groups. To participate in discussions you need to sign up as a Flickr user (it’s free) first.
- Canon dSLR Group
- Canon EOS 1000D
- Canon PowerShot G11
- Panasonic Lumix LX3
A camera is nothing more than a box that captures light and processes images. You are the artist and your photos depend on your imagination and technique. An experienced amateur or professional photographer can take more inspiring images with a Canon G11 compact than an inexperienced person with a high end professional grade dSLR.
Hope this is of some help!
February 2nd, 2010 at 7:51 pm
I have shot all my pictures till date with a canon S3 IS and am quite happy but now I get handicapped with speed and response time and DOF…
http://www.captivecaptures.blogspot.com/
http://www.wow-wonderworks.blogspot.com/
February 11th, 2010 at 4:08 pm
@bo_ :
There are SOME compact cameras with large sensors. Unfortunately, they are NOT inexpensive… yet. (examples: Leica X1, Sigma DP2.)
There are huge advantages to these, primarily NO MIRROR SLAP– so the camera does not shake, and it is not attention-getting like a machine-gun dSLR. Also, there is less potential for mechanical failure, and the cameras are smaller. (This may be a disadvantage for macho-men like me! ;))
Also, as far as my brain works, this could allow for faster burst shooting.
SOME day I do believe the SLR will die. My neck is sore from straining into an OVF… for serious fast photography (sports), I basically need at least one of my eyes wide open looking at the scene, not the blasted tiny window of the camera. With a live-view, we can even compose the general area using our peripheral vision, and keep both eyes on the action. If “real-time optical” view is the only reason for SLR, then it’s irrelevant to me, and to anyone who would rather see the entire field to anticipate action. Not to mention, the view displays are becoming faster.
I want a large sensor with a fixed 50mm/1.4 lens in a compact camera… and I want the LCD to tilt. A portrait photographer would hardly need anything else! (Even though he would not look like a professional!!!)
Paul
February 12th, 2010 at 10:49 pm
@ stratman
Thanks sooo much for your quick reply! Our internet was down at home so it took me forever to get back to this page and reply. I joined flickr per your suggestion and will be reading into it before making a decision.
I’m starting to lean towards the g11 or Lumix instead of the dSLR. I don’t want to carry around the cam and lenses.
Thanks agan!
February 18th, 2010 at 5:48 pm
Stratman et al:
Thank you so much all of you for asking and answering questions. I had to read every comment posted in the last 3 years.
When choosing between dSLR and point/shoot, think also about how carefully you frame your shots. If you’re the type who prints directly from the memory chip, you may prefer a good p&s because many have in-camera editing with fun features. I don’t like using digital zoom; I’d say don’t use it unless you are a straight-to-the-printer photographer. You lose too much quality, and won’t be able to enlarge your work as far.
I have some notes on super-zooms farther down.
So Strat, I had been searching for a few weeks online for a good viewfinder camera. I ended up a few days ago fixated on the G11, which you described so carefully. Your review has solidified my choice. My current box is a Kodak EasyShare Z730. It’s a 5 Mp, 4x zoom equivalent to a 33-132 mm (35 mm camera). I found the pictures to be somewhat flat in detail, contrast and color. Further, it just didn’t give me clean enlargements via PhotoShop or the simple EasyShare software. I hope the Canon G11 will be a good step up.
I’m glad you noted that it’s probably better than some p&s compacts with longer lenses because of the quality of the sensor. I also read that the 10 Mp sensor produces visibly better pix than the 12.2 it replaces. Between that and a sharp 5x lens, I’m going to get a vast improvement over my fairly adequate but limited Kodak. And, it has a low-light shooting mode that combines multiple quick exposures to layer up a detailed, lower-noise image than standard exposures.
My first and only SLR was for film, a 1973 Mamiya. I bought a (for the time and for an enlisted Coast Guardsman) fairly expensive Vivitar Series 1 70-210 mm macro-zoom. Between that, a tripler, and a stock 55 mm lens, I was a happy camper. Of course, I was in my 20s, and had the endurance to lug all that steel and crown glass in a massive camera bag. It was loads of fun to use, but I just don’t wanna hump it around anymore. And, as good as that was in its time, which was above average, it doesn’t compare with good zooms in SLRs today.
I’m going to Alaska, and would rather have a camera I can pack into a coat pocket. Sure, my work won’t be as sharp, and I can’t get as zoomed-in on critters, but I’m entering old-fartdom, and would rather tweak shots in PhotoShop than try to get perfect composition in the viewfinder. I only print about one in 10 or 20 shots now that I can take hundreds per trip.
I got some good mentoring from a Pulitzer Prize-winning photographer when I worked at one of the first newspapers to routinely publish digital photos (Thanks, Kim Komenich!). Plus, I’ve lost opportunities trying to set f-stop, shutter speed, focus, zoom and compose — when I could get them with a p&s preset for expected conditions.
For you who want 20x zooms or giant telephoto lenses, here are the problems:
1. Each lens element absorbs some light, and not in all wavelengths — no matter how hard the designers try. And you need more glass in front of the sensor (or film). And the more you want to stretch the lens’ focal length, the more elements and thickness the light must traverse. Less light, slower shot.
2. Some of the unabsorbed light is refracted and reflected by flaws, washing out detail and softening the photo. More random light, less contrast.
3. That big tube full of quartz and silica (and the rare earths and heavy metals that are added to the glass to vary the refraction, or balance the color transmission of the whole lens system) and the sturdy rings and brackets that hold things in place or allow them to shift for zoom/focus can be pretty heavy. That’s going to put strain on the lens mount and you. Pointing that mass can be slow (compare aiming a pencil vs a vacuum. And as you tire from holding it, you start to shake a bit.
4. At long telephoto, all motion is amplified — both in the subject and the lens/camera/photographer system. To rectify this, you need to get more light to the focal plane (film or sensor). Slower shutter speed? More motion problem. Faster ISO? More electronic noise. Wider aperture? You can’t go very wide with a long lens — it’s a function of length vs. smallest opening in the system. Anyway, if you go wide, you lose depth of field (which can be a good thing for separating your subject from background) but magnifies even minor focal misadjustments.
5. The bigger the zoom ratio, the more all these problems combine to reduce the quality of your image. I’ve had better luck with good exposures that I’ve had to crop and enhance in PhotoShop Elements (and even in Kodak’s free software) than with really long shots.
6. This and and a couple other numbers are for things I’ve forgotten to add.
So search the web for data on your camera choices (I like cnet.com), and test, test, test those long lenses and huge arrays. I recognize that a powerful zoom in an SLR with a large sensor and properly balanced imaging chip will provide better shots than a similarly long shot in a compact, with its smaller sensor. The sensor in SLR vs. many compacts and subcompacts is like the difference between shooting with a 35 mm vs. a 110 (which has a negative about the same as 8 mm).
Okay, it’s late, I wrote about 500 words too many, and too many topics. But if it helps, it’s worth my time.
February 19th, 2010 at 1:48 am
@Vandy
Well said, I couldn’t agree more.
Ultra-zoom bridge cameras use much smaller image circle lenses that suit their equally tiny imaging sensors. There’s a price to be paid for their lightweight construction and compactness – their light gathering properties are not as good as dSLR lenses.
And as you said, long focal length ratio telephoto zooms have its shortcomings. They’re convenient for travel (you need just one lens) but absolute IQ will always be compromised, especially in the areas of barrel distortion, chromatic aberration, vignetting and corner sharpness.
Just to correct you – the G11 (congrats on your purchase!) sports 10MP while its predecessor, the G10 had 14.7MP to be precise. Some people argue that the higher resolution in the G10 offsets its noisy CCD sensor and there’s more detail to be had.
I’d rather settle for a scaled down 10MP high sensitivity sensor in the G11. Its 2-stop advantage over the G10 is worth its price of admission.
And do join the Flickr G11 group – we have about 1,000 members to date and there’s plenty to learn from veterans who are into off-shoe flash photography and add-on accessories. :-)
February 24th, 2010 at 8:25 am
I love my Canon s90 Powershot point and click! I had a Powershot IS1200 and bought a s90a month or so ago. I talk about the difference here:
http://alisontravelsblog.blogspot.com/2010/01/does-size-matter-cannon-powershot-1200.html
I have yet to get a DSLR, but I am really happy with my pictures from the s90
February 24th, 2010 at 11:45 pm
@Alison,
Congrats on your new PowerShot S90 and thanks for sharing your excellent images on your blog! As the great photographer of the 1930s – Ansel Adams once remarked, “the single most important component in a camera is the twelve inches behind it”.
Of course by “twelve inches” Adams was referring to the person taking the photos and based on the huge, large format film cameras in his era. Someone else in recent times mentioned rather bluntly, “if you can’t take decent photos with Canon’s cheapest gear, the most expensive (gear) won’t help you.” I couldn’t agree more!
If you already taking splendid images with your old Digital ELPH 1200, your new S90 will open you up to more shooting possibilities.
Both the S90 and G11 share the same 10MP low noise sensor – one’s personal choice boils down to whether one needs external flash capability, remote trigger, a swivel screen, slightly larger LCD screen, optical viewfinder, higher shutter speeds, a bigger maximum aperture, a longer zoom and of course, compactness.
February 25th, 2010 at 6:52 pm
what do you guys think of the sony h20?
February 27th, 2010 at 9:19 pm
I am planning to buy an olympus sp 800uz 30x,14 mp or 590 26x,12 mp. wthats your opinion about these models compare to dslr cameras ?is it possible to take water drops , moving objects without any shake with sp superzoom models??xpecting a fast reply………………..
February 28th, 2010 at 5:23 am
@Sudheesh:
Although I don’t know those cameras, I did a lot of research on superzooms before deciding against them for myself. Your needs and interests may well differ. Some superzooms (10x and above) use digital zoom to reach their total telephoto power; make sure that the value is all “optical zoom” when comparing. (When you zoom digitally, it’s the same as cropping the negative; you get fewer pixels, thus less detail.)
Also, all-in-one cameras (I don’t like the term point-and-shoot because it only applies to the simplest models) don’t have the light-gathering capability of dSLRs because of smaller lenses and apertures, smaller chips. If you want to take lots of indoor or evening shots, or switch lenses for closeups, macro, or sports, dSLR is your best choice. Seems, though, that you’ve already considered those factors. And compacts are, well, compact! I quit the SLR path because I got tired of lugging a big bag of lenses, film, filters, cleaning gear… and missing shots setting up.
The big benefit for long lenses is in being able to print shots without cropping them with software. The disadvantage is that long shots are hard to hold steady, and lenses lose their resolution at long focal lengths.
See my post from Feb. 18 for more on zoom lenses. Also, for more info on your camera choices, compare them on sites such as (my favorite) cnet.com, which has video as well as extensive reviews written by editors and owners. You can compare your finalists from Olympus side by side.
If you’re buying online, you provide financial support for the service (like this one, or cnet) when you click on the seller’s icon on the service’s web page. Just a thought, if you appreciate what you see here or there.
But the main thing is that you choose something that seems right for you. Photographers do better with cameras they are comfortable with than those they aren’t. And to paraphrase Stratman, who posts here, “The most important factor in a good camera is the carbon-based element behind the lens.”
Best wishes.
February 28th, 2010 at 5:49 am
IF AM PLANNING TO TAKE A PICTURE OF SPLASHING OF WATER DROPS …WHAT R THE SPECIFICATION FOR THE CAMERA?
February 28th, 2010 at 1:54 pm
Dear 4×7: A very challenging subject. If you’re thinking of those drops that splash up into crown-shaped uh– splashes, that’s a very specialized technique. I saw it written up in a popular magazine in the 1960s, and it took a lot of equipment and preparation.
However, if you want something that’ll stop the motion of splashes by kids jumping in puddles, many cameras have the potential. It boils down to a fast shutter, which also requires that either the lens or the image sensor catch a lot of light. So minimum: The camera must be designed to let you lock in a fast shutter speed.
Well, that’s the start, anyway. That water is moving away from the puddle fairly fast, and you need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec. or better to capture it at one place in time. I’d say a shutter speed of 1/2000 or faster, which is about how long a xenon flash tube lights. That’s what’s in an electronic flash, and some of them also have controls that cut them off sooner. So if the shutter is too slow, the strobe may be fast enough. (Your question really needs more answer than this, though.)
Check the message streams on flash photography. Many of the more advanced all-in-one cameras, and probably all the dSLRs, handle a separate strobe.
Problem: To catch splashes in the act, lighting needs to come from a direction other than attached to the camera — otherwise, the flash goes right through the drops. So if you use a flash, it needs to be somewhere like 90 degrees away from the angle your camera is aimed. (I’m sure there’s someone on the flash stream who knows better than I.)
Or the sun has to be pretty bright so everything reflects enough light to be seen on the picture you take.
Those amazing drop/splash photos you’ve probably seen where the liquid is brightly colored? Very shallow pan of viscous paint or ink, very fast shutter, probably two strobes slaved to the shutter, with the flashes and camera on tripods, prefocused. Lots of failure shots before the one, magical image appears. But regular stop action is quite possible with mid-price cameras and patience.
February 28th, 2010 at 6:08 pm
hey sudeesh, I suggest you go for the Fujifilm FinePix HS10. It comprises the world’s first Fujinon 30x optical zoom in a compact camera installed with the high speed CMOS Sensor. The widely renown Fujinon Lens are used popularly in numerous situations including satellites in outer space, TV/film, security and compact cameras. With the highly adept manufacture of Fujifilm, high precision optic and technology are provided for the best 30x optical zoom.
http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/s/finepix_hs10/
Dpreview has said about the HS10 that it has “A lens so good you’ll be glad you can’t change it”. Fujinon lenses have been used in an orbital satellite to capture high-resolution photos of the surface of the moon.
The FinePix HS10 also features a full HD movie mode (1080p/30fps) with stereo sound, and the camera’s mini HDMI output allows you to easily display ultra clear high definition photographs and movies on high definition televisions. A new Super High Speed Movie function allows you to freeze action and capture breathtaking movies at up to 1000 frames per second for amazing slow-motion movies that reveal the hidden world of events that normally occur in the blink of an eye.
http://www.dpreview.com/news/1002/10020206fujifinepixhs10series.asp
It seems to be a very fine all-in-one camera I am also planning to buy it as soon as it is available here in India.
March 1st, 2010 at 5:25 am
thanx shaheen
March 1st, 2010 at 7:27 am
i have read some of this long list of replys and i did not find anything on ‘bridge cameras’. these are cameras that are on the high end p&s and have longer zoom and full manual controls. i owe a fuji finepix s5600 bridge camera and it is quite good considered i am a beginner in photography. i use it on full manual and i get good results. the only thing that bothers me is the limited depth of field between each f-stop, that is, it is very difficult to put foreground and background completely out of focus. however fuji is improving in both the sensor sizes and the zoom lenses, together with super macro mode. the frame is still bulky, but not as heavy i suppose. and i do not have to carry (or to buy!) different lenses.
while in the future i will invest in a dslr, right now i am thinking of upgrading my bridge camera with another bridgre camera also from fuji – the s200exr. compared to dslr, it is way much cheaper and suits my hobby purposes fine.
@shaheen do you think the hs10 is better than the s200exr? i did not know it existed before i saw your post! i might consider buying that instead of the s200
March 2nd, 2010 at 3:56 am
The HS10 features a Back Side Illuminated CMOS sensor whereas the S200EXR comprises a CCD sensor. The Back Side Illuminated CMOS sensor offers a 200% increase in sensitivity over a conventional CMOS sensor.
In CCD (Charge-Coupled Device) sensors, the pixel measurements are processed sequentially by circuitry surrounding the sensor, while in APS (Active Pixel Sensors) the pixel measurements are processed simultaneously by circuitry within the sensor pixels and on the sensor itself. Capturing images with CCD and APS sensors is similar to image generation on CRT and LCD monitors respectively.
The most common type of APS is the CMOS (Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor) sensor. CMOS sensors were initially used in low-end cameras but recent improvements have made them more and more popular in high-end cameras such as the Canon EOS D60 and 10D. Moreover, CMOS sensors are faster, smaller, and cheaper because they are more integrated (which makes them also more power-efficient), and are manufactured in existing computer chip plants.
When more light is allowed to reach a Back Side Illuminated CMOS sensor, it can be more sensitive to light and this is useful for taking night shots. Typically, images snapped at night using high ISO sensitivity are dotted with digital artifacts. But BSI sensors allow users to get better low-light shots as the ISO sensitivity can be decreased while retaining the same amount of light capture as higher ISO settings.
You may be wondering why Fujifilm is using BSI sensors when it has its own Super CCD EXR which can deliver good night shots, too. The company told CNET Asia that in order to highlight the essence of speed for the megazoom HS-10 (it can rattle off 10fps at full resolution), the firm decided to incorporate BSI sensor in the shooter. That said, it will not scrape its inhouse-developed sensor for the BSI variation, but will instead work on the Super CCD EXR and improve this for future cameras.
This brings us to another trait of BSI sensor-equipped snappers: These cameras can capture fast action shots with ease, with some even rivaling the continuous shooting modes of dSLRs. Most entry-level dSLRs have a rated speed of only 3 or 4fps.
http://asia.cnet.com/reviews/digitalcameras/0,39001469,62061250,00.htm
Although the S200EXR features a 12 MP sensor it is not significantly much than the 10 MP sensor of the HS10.
The HS10 features a wider lens at 24 mm as compared to the 30.5 mm that of the S200EXR.
The HS10’s 30x lens has a twist-barrel manual zoom unlike the S200EXR.
The HS10 can record movies in full HD 1920 x 1080, UNLIKE S200EXR. Also the HS10 can freeze the action at up to an amazing 1000fps unlike the A200EXR.
The HS10 has a bigger LCD screen at 3″, whereas the S200EXR has a 2.7″ LCD screen.
The HS10 is also lighter at 666 g. The S200EXR weighs 865 g.
Hope these facts will help you on deciding which FujiFilm camera model to go for. As for me, I would prefer the HS10. It should be available in April, 2010.
March 2nd, 2010 at 5:42 am
Hi ,
will we get clear snap from hs -10 of falling water drops, splashing of water,water falls ,moving objects .what is the normal shutter speed ,iso and aperture to take such snaps?is it with the HS10?please chk about olympus sp 800 for the same purpose.price and weightwise its less.is it,hs 10 ,available in us?
March 2nd, 2010 at 5:48 am
Hi,
if the lens mms are 24 , 26 , 28, 35…..in these which one will have more wide angle?how will we calculate?which one will give a clear picture?
March 2nd, 2010 at 6:05 am
Hi 777, to know the answer to your questions please visit:
http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/s/finepix_hs10/features/page_02.html
I would not recommend Olympus because the technology involved in FujiFilms lense, CMOS sensor etc are better. The lower the number, the wider the lens is. E.g. out of 24 , 26 , 28, 35…24mm is the widest. It means that it will cover the widest angle compared to a 26mm, 28mm or a 35mm lens, when composing a picture to shoot. That is why fish-eye lenses are typically 10mm and lower.
March 2nd, 2010 at 6:10 am
Hi 7777,
The lower the number on the lens, the wider it is. In the example given by you, 24mm is the widest. It will cover the widest field of view compared to a 26mm, 28mm or a 35 mm lens. That is why a fish-eye lens, which covers almost 180 degrees of view, is typically 10mm or lower.
To find the answers to your other questions, please visit:
http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/s/finepix_hs10/features/page_02.html
The HS10 should be available in April, 2010.
March 2nd, 2010 at 6:31 am
About lens “sizes”: If they are all listed as “35-mm equivalent,” then the smaller number is wider. It seems counterintuitive, but think of them as “power,” with a bigger number equaling more reaching power. (This is not at all the same as the power ratings of binoculars, but can be thought of that way.)
Why “35-mm equivalent?” Because different cameras, using different sized sensors, have different focal lengths for the same wide angle or telephoto power. So camera-makers and reviewers need to convert them to the old standard of 35-mm SLR lenses. I looked at asia.cnet.com (searched for “hs10″), and it compared the HS10 to a Nikon Coolpix and an Olympus. It looks like the HS10 has a 24-720 mm (35-mm equivalent) zoom range. That’s verrrrrrrry powerful. But compared to the other cameras, it is about 50 percent heavier and 10-20 percent larger.
The review does not say the shutter speeds nor lens speed (the “f:” number, in which smaller is better for fast-moving objects). This seems to be a very new release and may not be available everywhere. I didn’t try, but check the fuji website for details and its marketing puff.
Also, hard to say which will give a clearer picture in optical (lens) terms. What I mean is, different makers have different methods and patents on their lens-making.
And thanks, Shaheen, for providing the asia.cnet link.
March 2nd, 2010 at 6:56 am
@vandy:
nothing about a lens changes whether it’s on a digital or 35mm camera. the only thing that might change is the angle of view because of a different sensor size. to be sure, a digital camera with a “full-frame” sensor would have the exact same feel as a 35mm camera using the same lens.
so… the focal length is not “different.”
that “35mm equivalent” number is actually useless for younger photographers. it’s only useful for people who have a lot of experience with 35mm cameras and want to have an idea for the way the lens might seem on a particular digital camera. but the lens has not changed– it’s subjective.
the APS-C sized-sensors are smaller than 35mm, so the lenses “seem” to be more telephoto on a digital camera than on a 35mm. but the same result could be achieved on the 35mm simply by cropping in on the photo.
:)
March 2nd, 2010 at 8:26 am
For a newbie new to DSLR’s what do you guys think about the Nikon D3000
March 2nd, 2010 at 11:12 am
@7777: Did anyone mention that the FinePix HS10 will not be available until April? (Don’t remember where I saw that.) I don’t know if that means you have 30 or 60 days to decide on this model, but if you’re looking for a more immediate buy…..
I have more about making your camera decision near the end, but before that,
@paul:
The FinePix web link you cited in your message previous to the one in which you attempted to correct me has these lines in its specifications:
Lens Fujinon 30x optical zoom lens, F2.8 (Wide) – F5.6 (Telephoto)
Lens focal length f=4.2 – 126.0mm, equivalent to 24 – 720mm on a 35mm camera
Therefore: The focal length, contrary to your admonishment, IS different. Further, your statement “that ‘35mm equivalent’ number is actually useless for younger photographers” is not only in error, I submit that the 35mm equivalent is essential to ALL serious photographers researching digital cameras.
Because different manufacturers use varying sensors and sensor sizes, the lenses may differ as well — especially among cameras with non-interchangeable lenses, such as the all-in-one HS10 in discussion. I guess you’re saying that the HS10 “is” a 35mm equivalent. But it emphatically is not, as indicated by the data provided by Fuji itself (above).
For example, my current Canon G11 is 6.1-30.5mm, defined in my user guide as equivalent to a 28-140mm lens for a 35mm camera.
I used to use a 35mm Mamiya-Sekor 500 DTL (which I pulled out to check), and the standard lens was 50mm. My high-school camera (in the ’60s) was a Yashica 635 (checked that one, too). The latter shot both 120 film (2-1/4″ square format, aka 6cm) and 35mm. Its lens is 80mm, average for 120 film, but when loaded with 35, the exposed width is a bit more than half the 120, so the camera specs listed the lens as equal to a moderate telephoto lens of 135mm when using 35mm film. I think the focal plane, or exposed width, for 120 is 55mm, and for 35mm film it’s 24mm. Length is, what, 36mm? That’d be a 3:2 ratio.
Further, I have a small Sony U60 (underwater) camera. It has a 5.0mm (7/32″) lens which is specced as “35mm camera conversion: 33mm (1-5/15 inches).”
That’s my hard evidence that lens sizes for cameras do not have exact correspondence unless they have the same full-frame focal plane image size. Which is why manufacturers and review sites alike persist in using the equivalency data. But since I have not looked into dSLRs, I do not know that all brands and models have exact equivalency as did all 35mm SLRs (and, I think ALL 35s whether SLR or other).
:)
But back to the buyer and camera in question. The HS10’s wide-angle equivalent of 24mm is rather wide, and these often produce “barrel distortions,” in which squares and rectangles seem to bow out in the middle. It’s usually not obvious for pix of splashing water or kids’ sports photos. Its long 720mm will make it difficult to hold the camera steady enough to avoid blurring the pictures, even with antishake engaged. The owner handbook will provide more info.
The aperture, which is a sort of light-gathering ratio, is a fairly fast f2.8 when shooting wide angle, but because of the extreme zoom, it is f5.6 in telephoto. (A theoretical perfect aperture would be f1, but the absolute best I have ever seen is f1.2, which is something like a 50 percent light difference.) So the HS10 is not bad, but that’s three or four shutter-speeds slower zoomed than wide (what, 88 percent light loss?). So if you were trying to get drops frozen in midair, your subject’s motion is four times as far (blurrier), or the ISO (sensitivity, which relates to sharpness) is 1/16 as good (grainier, more speckling). (Or maybe it’s three times for motion and 1/8 as good. I’m pretty sure it’s the former.)
So for those action shots of the kids and of splashing water that you said are driving factors, shoot at wide to maybe no more than 3x zoom for best stop-motion, and set the camera for 1/500 sec or shorter, and let the camera set the ISO.
Bob
March 2nd, 2010 at 2:26 pm
Thank u verymuch for yr instant replys……is THE HS 10 AVAILABLE IN THE US????!!!!!!!.
March 2nd, 2010 at 5:38 pm
this is an absolutely good ammount of information here!! thanks guys!
@shaheen
thanks for the detailed info on comparison of sensors. i saw the reviews and specs of cams (HS10 and S200)
what drove me to the s200 in the first place was its super macro function,( which is also present in HS10) and the Barcketing mode with Film Simulation BKT (PROVIA / Standard, Velvia / Vivid, ASTIA / Soft). this feature is not present in the HS10. i am after photos like macros with a soft focus. do you know if this will be possible with HS10?
as for its weight, i am not really bothered because it is always lighter than carrying a bag of different lenses! and more convenient too (no changing of lenses). this suits my hobby purposes fine.
March 2nd, 2010 at 6:58 pm
Hi audrey-g,
I have downloaded the manual of the HS10 from FujiFilm website and on page 87 it says that it is possible to select Sepia, Black&White, Vivid contrast, Standard contrast modes.
http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/s/finepix_hs10/pdf/index/finepix_finepixhs10_manual_01.pdf
@7777, I do not know about its availability in USA. I live in India. I suggest you contact customer care, USA, for information on its availability in USA.
@vandy, the focal length of the HS10 is Wide: F2.8 / F11.0, Telephoto: F5.6 / F11.0
http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/s/finepix_hs10/specifications/index.html
Shutter speed is:
(Auto mode) 1/4sec. to 1/4000sec.
(All other modes) 30sec. to 1/4000sec.
March 3rd, 2010 at 12:20 pm
@Shaheen:
Thanks re: f-stops. Yeah, I got the wide-open stops in the next-to-last paragraph, but something above said f4.2, which according to the CoolPix site is the lens’s average value. I left out the closed-down f11 because using the tighter f-stop would lengthen the minimum possible shutter speed.
And my language was unclear regarding the motion of water drops. I wrote, “So if you were trying to get drops frozen in midair, your subject’s motion is four times as far (blurrier)….”
I should have typed, “Shooting at f2.8 will let you set the shutter at, say 1/1000 sec., but zooming loses 3 (or 4) f-stops, so your shutter will be open 3-4 times as long. The drops can thus fly 3-4 times as far, causing more blur.”
I found another error: I typed the wrong value for the Sony, which should have said “35mm camera conversion: 33mm (1-5/16 inches)”; I typed 1-5/15.
1/4000 sec. for shutter speeds was unheard of when I was learning photography in the 1960s. Top cameras might offer 1/1000; those were focal-plane shutters on the best, like Hasselblads and Leicas. As well, they were full-frame cameras, 120s and 35mm, so the curtains had to really fly across the film. The size of the sensor in a 1/1.7″ is actually only 7.6 x 5.7 mm. (Found that yeasterday; value was based on the working surface of ancient television vidicon tubes.) Much smaller than found in dSLRs, even the new 4/3 format. (My new Canon G11 is 1/1.7″.)
If I weren’t such a tightwad, I would have bought a good dSLR with maybe a 35-70 and 70-210 zoomers. Cropping with a lens gives you much more detail if you decide to crop something really tight in PhotoShop later.
March 3rd, 2010 at 2:12 pm
Hi…,,,
Finally which camera i hav to buy to capture moving objects,splashing of water drops ? or just clearly give me the specs of a camera to capture these kind of snaps.like shutter speed?, iso ?,aperture?, F?if anythig else is there include that also?why you people are not advicing olympus sp 800 30x ?
Actually fuji hs 10 is not launched yet and nobody has any xperience with this,in this case shall I have to go for hs -10??!! whats your opinion?
March 4th, 2010 at 3:42 am
@7777,
If I were you, I would have waited for the HS10. Then would have taken a few shots with the HS10 (once available) as well as with the SP-800UZ and then arrived at a decision.
March 4th, 2010 at 5:57 pm
@7777:
Most cameras now have the capability. You need to be able to lock in a minimum shutter speed of 1/1000 sec., a zoom range of 5x or more, and probably be able to lock in a focal range so the camera can snap the instant you press the shutter release. You have to be able to test these things in the camera store or find a better adviser than I.
The point is that these shots either have to be planned for, or you and your camera have to be able to respond instantly.
I’m sorry I can’t suggest a bunch of models. I searched for my own needs, and just bought a Canon PowerShot G11. It’s a great, if somewhat complicated, camera if you’re not into setting things up yourself. It sells for about $450-500. I’ve seen Stratman on this string comment positively about the Canon PowerShot S90 (~$400). I looked it up on cnet.com and it provided these cameras for comparison: Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS1 ($220), Sony Cybershot DSC-W290 ($180), Sony Cybershot DSC-H20 ($225), and Sony Cybershot DSC-WX1 ($290). Dunno why it loaded up on Sonys, not to mention at half the price.
I’ll keep checking back here. Good luck in your search.
Ideas, anyone else?
March 7th, 2010 at 1:57 pm
please advice me……………canon powershot sx 20 IS or fuji hs 10 ..which one will be good for fast moving object shots ??
March 7th, 2010 at 4:33 pm
DSLR is the best…. Canon EOS most of it… with a P&S Camera you can’t make a money, but if you got DSLR, with less than 2 years, your invested money to buy that DSLR is returned, why?, cause you can sell a picture you’ve taken to free royalty web site, but if you use P&S Camera, the website will said ” your image is blurred or not crisp”
March 8th, 2010 at 12:34 am
@slms:
If you’re into action photography and want take fast continuous shots, the PowerShot SX20 IS is NOT for you. It’s a slow poke. Consider the Fuji HS-10 instead as it has a very much faster burst rate. I may be a Canon fan but I have to say that the SX20 IS’ burst rate is very poor.
@ar:
Not true. I don’t know which photo gallery sites you’re inferring reject P&S camera images but I can tell you that thousands of P&S camera owners have taken superb images with their compacts.
Unless you peek at the EXIF data, you wouldn’t know if they were taken with a Canon A620 or an EOS 1D Mk III when viewed on your computer screen. This is especially true with wide angle landscape images with deep depth-of-field. Very hard to tell the difference.
The camera is only a fancy light tight box to capture images. It’s the person who really knows how to make use of it that distinguishes resulting award winning-like images from mere snapshots. It’s called “photographer talent” which doesn’t come with the camera or owner’s manuals.
Have a look at the various images on Flickr’s photo pools and you’ll see what I mean.
March 11th, 2010 at 10:22 am
@7777:
I had a rainy day with backlighting, so I shot some frames to see how the showers appeared against a dark background. They were not impressive. At 1/320 sec, the drops were visible streaks. At 1/1000 sec the drops were specks of white. Here’s how I translate the need from that. Rain is going as fast as it ever will, being in equillibrium between gravity and air resistance. Same with waterfalls. Kids splashing in a pool, jumping in a puddle, squirting a hoze — those are water droplets decelerating upwards, but possibly moving faster than raindrops. You’ll want the fastest shutter possible.
I also took some shots with the flash on to see how that affected the visibility. Not much help, but some. The closer drops, being a bit better lit, were brighter but out of focus. That won’t apply if the water and the source are close together. And I keep thinking of a photo I saw decades ago of a woman with long hair emerging from a pool: she whipped her head and hair back, and the water and all were stopped in dramatic clarity. That took a model, excellent equipment, and lots of shots.
And Stratman, commenting for another reader above, knows things I don’t: Which camera is going to be too slow in responding to your press of the shutter button to catch the image you want. It’s honorable and impressive that you know just what demands you set for minimum performance. But I’m afraid it will take a great deal of experimentation, and frustration, before you get the shot of your dreams.
Go for it! The pictures you get until then will be all the better.
March 11th, 2010 at 2:14 pm
Hi MR .RMVANDY ,,,,,,,,,,whats your opinion about NIKON P 100 26 X, 10MP .please advice me after comparing with fuji hs 10 .can i take photos of water droplets with nikonP 100s specification ?want a fast reply!!!!!!!
March 11th, 2010 at 4:04 pm
Sorry, slim, but I didn’t know either camera. The search for answers took me about an hour.
The two products are roughly comparable in possibilities, but the fact is, I just didn’t want to keep searching for data after I found this web page that compares the two for you:
http://asia.cnet.com/reviews/digitalcameras/0,39005881,45197453p,00.htm
I think both will do the water torture for you, but asia.cnet.com doesn’t seem to think the color and detail is excellent. And the Fuji isn’t out yet. Are you really in such a hurry for a camera that won’t be released until March 20 that you need me to find an answer ASAP? Maybe if you’d taken your own hour for your own needs, you’d have found that out.
But hope the information helps.
March 13th, 2010 at 1:40 pm
hi,
canon sx 20 IS ( ccd sensor ) or nikon p 100 (cmos sensor ) which one will give more clear picture?which one has good features?
March 13th, 2010 at 2:02 pm
Hiiiii,
I hav chkd both nikon p 100 and fuji hs 10 in the internet not tested ,.The main diference i could feel is that there is no sweep panorama mode in p 100 and a 4 optical zoom diffr as a beginner in your DPS & PHOTOGRAPHY FIELD .In p 100 VR & sensor (5way ) stabilization is there ,will it give good result?waiting for your perfect decision to buy a camera .
please compare with canon sx 20 IS also.
March 13th, 2010 at 5:48 pm
Please let me apologize to SLMS, with whom I was abrupt last night. I blame only myself. I hope you were able to use the link.
When I was searching for a new camera, I thought I wanted a 20x or 30x zoom with lots of megapixels. Another reader here — Stratman — helped me greatly by seeing that what I needed wasn’t the same as wanted. Stratman was right. I searched some more and ended up with his recommendation with fewer megapixels and less zoom, but a few features I really appreciate.
That’s what all of us have to do.
Have I been mistaken for an instructor here? I’m just a curious photographer like the rest of you. My knowledge base is not in comparing modern electronics or the advantages of a specific camera over another. But I’m pretty good with the concepts of lenses, light, and some shooting techniques.
I wish I knew a “best place” for finding your answers. Usually, you have to use your imagination, discoveries and stubbornness to find what you need to know. How serendipidous that just this evening I was reading on the web about ccd vs. cmos (at howstuffworks.com). It said that CCD, being the more mature technology, had the advantages ***on the date the article was written***. When was that, though?
CCDs, though, consume 100x the power of CMOS (that’s why, it said, CMOS is used extensively in cellphone cameras). You’ll find a higher ratio of CMOS sensors in the higher-end SLRs. There must be a good reason that higher-priced cameras have them, but it didn’t register in my thick head. I think they cost more, but when included in the cost of a more-complex, expensive SLR, the price is relatively less important. But its advantages in small cameras? I don’t know, but if I couldn’t pick between two otherwise-equal cameras, I’d probably go CMOS. Gut feeling, and sometimes the gut has a memory the brain can’t recall.
Please search the photography sites for yourself. I looked all over Wikipedia.org and howstuffworks.com, but didn’t get a qualitative comparison out of them. I didn’t look at Canon or Nikon or Fuji sites because they write to sell more than inform. Look for things on this site, or CNET, or — well, see what else you can find.
And I know that’s not a specific answer to the P100 versus HS10 quandary.
There are so many cool features that one camera has that another doesn’t — such as sweep panorama here, auto-stitching of panoramas there, special low-light function, a megazoom that can fill your frame with a hummingbird at 100 yards — you just have to find the one that’s most important, that you’re already searching for or had decided before that you needed. Go with that.
What, REALLY, will you use? The rest is just extra nuts in the candy bar.
March 13th, 2010 at 9:32 pm
hi,
Thanku so much for sharing yr opinions with me……..
You already recommended CMOS CAMERAS and so now thats cleared .But I would like to know which camera would u prefer for the best combination of features amongst p100 & hs 10?
Sweep panorama is high on my list as is aleast 26 X and low light function.Hope u will help me conclude my hunt for the right camera .
Xpecting yr reply asap..
March 14th, 2010 at 7:25 am
OK, sss, this is about as well as I can do without actually testing the cameras myself.
The cameras are so much the same that they seem to use the same 10-mp, back-side illuminated CMOS sensor. The zoom ratios are almost the same. The video capabilities are virtually the same (if not identical; I wasn’t paying close attention because I was focusing on the sensor). However: The Nikon is smaller, lighter, comes with a paper manual (does the Fuji?), has a higher-resolution display, and is available now.
As CNET noted, the superzooms, those that go way beyond 5 or 10x, are simply not as sharp as lenses with lower values. You just can’t shoot through that much glass that’s only an inch or so wide and still get a razor-sharp image at the end. CNET wrote that people who want a lot of tricks and features, but not high resolution (sharpness and contrast) will find the Nikon to be good. (And, since it is much the same as the Fuji, it as well.) If it will be your primary or only camera, they say steer away. (From both, I’d guess.)
By the way: back-side illuminated cmos sensors are called that because the order of layering the metals and silicon are reversed, and the metal circuitry, which usually resides on the front, go to the back. Or, put another way, the epitaxy is backwards. No, not an obvious name to me, either. This is likely to be the technology most better cameras go to in a very few years, I think.
So: BSI CMOS is said to have better light sensitivity because there is no “wiring” blocking the light from reaching the semiconductor layer. Plus, CMOS requires lower power. Finally, because CMOS is the technology of current superchips, there’s a lot of designer and foundry expertise available to improve the product. The last sentence is my opinion, and not necessarily accurate.
Lastly, the panorama mode. I used mine only one time in the last dozen vacations. When you blow it up, it still can be only as wide as the biggest single-sheet print you’re able to print (or buy). And in most albums, that’s a 12-inch (30cm) max. But if you think the panorama is important, AND TO YOU all other things are equal, go with your panorama pick, the Fuji. If you want it ASAP, as your messages ask, go Nikon. Unsure? Get opinions from a few Nikon and Fuji owners on their opinions of quality.
But the final decision is yours.
March 14th, 2010 at 2:23 pm
Hiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii Mr.rmvandy,
Thanku so much for bearing with me and answering each one of my questions so patiently…………All your pointers havebeen considered and will hopefully help me make a sensible decision on the camera selection.
Panoramic mode is still on my list and since I dont really tke print outs of my images ,but rather prefer viewing them on the PC or sending them by email,I think I’ll go for the hs 10 .In nikon p100 there is only panoramic stitch assist mode and we wont get a 280 degree view ????
ONCE AGAIN …..THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT……….
rgds
sss
March 14th, 2010 at 3:06 pm
@sss
I would recommend that you wait for professional camera sites to test the Nikon P100 and publish images taken with it before buying it.
Do note that a 1/2.3″ backlit CMOS sensor will not the yield the same high ISO image quality compared to a 4/3rds format digicam, let alone an APS-C dSLR. A tiny sensor cannot simply match the light gathering properties of a bigger sensor.
Panoramic sweep assist and multi-exposure capability (for twilight scenes) are actually not new features.
In April 2009, Sony introduced both features in their DSC-HX1 (9MP, Exmor CMOS sensor). It’s capable of a 10 fps burst rate. The problem is that ultrazoom cameras don’t have the large buffer capacity that dSLRs and 4/3rd cameras do.
So, you fire off a 10-frame burst. The camera locks up for like, 30 seconds after that as its processor struggles to process all the JPG images one at a time. Which means, you’ll miss a candid photo opportunity while the camera is busy.
A comparison with the Canon SX20 IS would be unfair, as it’s equipped with a CCD sensor. You have to pit the Nikon P100 against Canon’s excellent SX1 IS, which also has a 10MP CMOS sensor. Like all Canon ultrazooms, the SX1 IS has a panorama stitch assist (but not panorama sweep), a good fast burst mode of 4 fps and more importantly, RAW format shooting.
As a side note, Nikon has never been known to excel in the ultra-zoom market. Nikon makes terrific midrange and high end dSLRs, but historically its ultra-zooms have never been up to Canon’s image quality.
I’m happy with my 2006-era PowerShot S3 IS, which is one of Canon’s most successful ultrazooms. It may not have the sharp, 460K dot LCD the Nikon P100 has or the 26x zoom ratio (the S3 IS had only 12x zoom).
Sharp images and low chromatic aberrations at the telephoto end is more important to me than a really long zoom range. It’s an old marketing tactic, like the so-called Megapixel race (more is better) – so manufacturers try to build a higher zoom ratio lens into a point-and-shoot camera to beat the other guy (ultrazooms are considered P&S as they are NOT dSLRS).
As rmvandy had pointed out, you’ll be compromising image quality with a longer zoom ratio lens. If I were you, I’d wait for real world test results from DPreview, Digital Camera Resource, Imaging Resource and Camera Labs websites, to name a few before shelling out my money on the P100.
I’ve never considered CNET to be a reliable review source for photography products, even though they are very quick to make announcements of new, upcoming models. Reading the specs is one thing, looking at test picture results is another.
good luck! :-)
March 14th, 2010 at 5:21 pm
Thanks, Stratman, for putting CNET in context among review sites. Yep, they are very fast with reviews (it is a division of on of America’s largest television networks, CBS, and in ways they’re treated as a deadline news department). Sometimes they have good photo comparisons, but I didn’t notice any for the Nikon. And, of course, the Fuji hadn’t been released even for reviews by Saturday.
I’m glad you listed the other test sites.
As for panoramas: I think I found that most recent mid-range and better cameras — or the pc/Mac software that comes with them — have the capability to create them. The free supporting software that comes with cameras should get more attention in reviews, I think.
sss: In addition, the feature is built into many photo applications, some of them possibly free downloads. I’d note that cnet, again, has a list of applications, but I don’t want to drag my fingernails down Stratman’s chalkboard!
Happy shooting. Drop a line here a while after you get your camera so all the readers can get your impressions. I’m curious, too.
March 14th, 2010 at 10:32 pm
I am a physician and need a camera for before and after shots — which one would give me the best quality with the best ease of use (since my nurses/employees are not professional photographers — or even close). I hope that you can help!
March 15th, 2010 at 12:51 am
@sss
Nikon has never been known to be successful with their Coolpix ultrazooms. The company excels in the midrange and high end dSLRs, but not bridge cameras like their P-series. Canon is a lot better in this area, with their ultra-successful S2/S3/S5/SX1/SX10 and SX20 IS models.
Furthermore Canon S/SX ultrazoom owners (and other PowerShot models) are lucky to have the Canon Hack Developer’s Kit (CHDK) add-on software (free) which allows the special functions originally not intended for the camera.
26x zoom should not be your priority in choosing a bridge camera. Such extremely long focal ratio lenses will always lose in image sharpness at the telephoto end, chromatic aberrations and wide angle barrel distortion.
If you like sweep panorama, have a look at the Sony DSC-HX1 (Exmor CMOS sensor) which supports that feature. Low light performance is never a selling point of P&S cameras (ultrazooms included). That’s where Four Third sensor cameras come in and dSLRs too.
If I were you wait for professional review sites like DPreview, Camera Labs and Digital Camera Resource to actually test the HS10.
I own an old PowerShot S3 IS myself, although I seldom use it nowadays can be useful in situations where I need telephoto in good lighting conditions. My current workhorse digicams are the EOS 450D, PowerShot G11 and an ultra-compact Sony Cyber-shot DSC-W150.
March 15th, 2010 at 2:02 am
@debra
For general photography without the need for long zoom shots, I would highly recommend the Canon PowerShot G11. While it’s not a pocket P&S camera, it fits into a handbag or a desk drawer nicely when you need it.
The G11 is Canon’s flagship, non-ultrazoom compact digicam. With a hot shoe, you can add the more powerful and more versatile Speedlite 270EX flash gun. It supports wired and wireless (albeit from third party brands) triggers for taking photos of your patients, when the G11 is mounted on a tripod.
Its image quality is very exceptional for a non-dSLR camera and the G11 earned many favorable reviews from camera websites. See some awesome examples of user photos in Flickr <a href="
Its macro capability up to 1cm means you can take close up shots of say, skin lesions, etc. Need larger close up shots? There are optional add-on macro lenses for it, although you'd need a special adapter for the lens.
Canon has a heavy duty waterproof WP-DC34 underwater housing for the G11, which means you can take pics of fish and coral – all the way to 40 meters in depth.
March 15th, 2010 at 7:39 am
Debra:
I regard Stratman’s advice very highly, which is why I bought the G11 a few weeks ago. Like many instruments and specialized equipment you’d have, this will require some learning and practice by you and your staff.
Perhaps he listed the waterproof housing because it provides a clean instrument that can survive wetness. Price is about $170. One extra product that may be important to you is called a ring flash (Canon Model MR-14EX). It virtually eliminates the problems of shadows when taking closeups, and reflections are less trouble, too. This, perhaps with an add-on close-up (macro) auxiliary lens, is combination Canon reportedly created for dentists.
A ring flash is an electronic flash using the same kind of lamp as those found built into cameras. It differs in being a ring of light that encircles the lens. With regular flash you can get harsh shadows; this surrounds the target with light. The unit actually uses two semicircular flash tubes, which are independently adjustable. That will allow you to set them either to create or avoid shadowing.
List price is $750 but it’s available for $500 on line — about the same price as the G11. An alternative is an LED ring light for about $70. It’s not nearly as bright, and the color may not be close enough to daylight for accurate reproduction of skin tones. Its illumination range is one to 9.75 inches. (Find either on Amazon.com by searching for ring light.) Finally, there’s a Canon light pair called MT-24EX that lists at $1,100 and is available for about $700. These units cannot be attached if you use the waterproof housing, and they would negate the sterile advantage of using the dive case, anyway.
I suspect, though, that your procedure rooms have adequate lighting for photography of body surfaces. But you can create a more easily reproducible standard of lighting and camera settings for your before-and-after shots if you use an attachable strobe.
As the “owner” of your “business,” you can decide the standards to set and how to budget or depreciate the cost of what essentially becomes a medical instrument.
March 15th, 2010 at 8:15 am
The Canon S90 is quite a mix up. A superb sensor and better quality photos than your average point and shoot.
Maybe we will see less difference between DSLR and point and shoot in the future? The one point that is most important is having your camera with you when the opportunity strikes. Unfortunately the DSLR is too big for some situations.
March 15th, 2010 at 2:29 pm
It is dangerous or harmful for the CCD sensor of a digital camera to point it directly to the sun? even more if it action is at the noon sun?
March 16th, 2010 at 12:52 am
@rmvandy
Wow, you really pulled out all the stops on that reply, brother! lol . :-) Debra didn’t elaborate her exact specialty in her medical profession. I don’t know if the WP-DC34 was ever intended to be used in bio-hazard conditions, if it were CDC Atlanta and the World Health Organization would have given the seal of approval for use in medical science. :-)
The rubber seals would deteriorate if exposed to decontaminating agents like chlorine found in bleaching solutions. Nay, I was just saying that the G11 is a very modular (and affordable) camera with many optional accessories. Short of a dSLR for use in forensic work (notice the characters in CSI and CSI:NY use Nikons with macro ring flash?), the G11 should be more than adequate for “before” and “after” images of a patient .
cheers.
March 16th, 2010 at 1:54 am
@Mark
IMO, the PowerShot S90 is the best P&S camera in the sub-compact category. Heck, I would have bought one, in addition to my existing G11 if the S90 had a back up optical viewfinder.
I’ve often encountered situations where the midday is so bright that it’s impossible for me to compose a shot using the LCD. My carry-everywhere Sony Cyber-shot DSC-W150 has a zoom coupled viewfinder and in such bright situations I have to resort placing my camera at eye level and shooting via the viewfinder instead. I know it’s not an accurate means of composing, but at least I can see what I’m pointing the camera at.
Less difference between a dSLR and a P&S? Never! There’s more to it than just advanced sensors and fast imaging processors in a dSLR.
Even when the day comes when small sensors in P&S cameras approach those of APS-C dSLR sensors in terms of dynamic range and low noise levels, there’s one problem that even advanced technology cannot overcome – laws of optics and light physics.
Due to the small lenses employed in pocket P&S cameras, the depth-of-field is extremely deep. F/2.0 on your S90 is roughly equivalent to f/8 or f/11 in a dSLR and probably f/22 in a medium format camera. It is impossible to isolate the background from the main subject with a small lens P&S.
If you have a camera cellphone, just look at photos that you’ve taken. You’ll notice that EVERYTHING is sharp and in focus. The cellphone’s camera has an even tinier pinhole sized lens than the S90 – therefore the depth of field is much greater than the S90.
You will never get a deliberately out-of-focus background from a cellphone cam, let alone quality bokeh, if there’s such thing as visible bokeh from a cellphone cam.
Giving an example, my Sony Ericsson G705 phone has a fixed focus, 3.6mm lens. That’s very wide indeed. Even at f/2.8 (the G705 selects the aperture, shutter speed and ISO automatically) objects in front and in the background come up all sharp. That might be desirable for landscape shots, but certainly not for portraiture.
Now don’t get me wrong! The S90 is a formidable sub-compact in its class. Its f/2.0 lens is the largest aperture in such a pocketable camera, but it’s not a constant aperture f/2.8 throughout its entire focal length.
Which means to achieve f/2.0 you’re limited to 28mm and thereabouts. At full telephoto (105mm, 35mm equiv) the S90’s max aperture drops to a slow f/4.9. Even the bigger G11, at 140mm (35mm equiv) is slightly faster at f/4.5.
Due to cost and weight considerations, P&S cameras don’t come with constant aperture zoom lenses. Therefore, dSLRs will never replace P&S cameras for the ultimate photographic and imaging flexibility.
March 16th, 2010 at 4:53 am
@gabriel
Don’t do it!
You have to remember that your camera lens also acts as a magnifying glass which converges light onto a small circle of focused light onto your sensor. Taking pics of sunrise or sunsets is OK, but never point your lens directly at the midday sun for more than a few seconds. You can severely damage the sensor by doing so.
If you’re taking pictures of the sun (e.g. solar eclipse), you need to place a strong neutral density (ND) filter in front of the lens to cut down the light. With dSLRs that are not on Live View mode, the shutter and sensor are protected by the reflex mirror, but P&S cameras have electronic shutters with no mirrors involved.
As long as you can view the image on the LCD, you are in Live View mode – which means the sensor is exposed to whatever light there is. All P&S digital cameras operate in LV mode.
The same goes for high output laser pointers, e.g. 50mW and above. Powerful lasers pointed directly into a P&S camera’s lens can leave a scarring mark on the sensor and permanently damaging it.
March 16th, 2010 at 7:13 am
Gabriel:
I second that emotion. Although the sensors don’t burn through with instantaneous exposure to the sun, aiming at and holding the camera on the sun (or as Stratman notes, laser pointers and bench lasers) is a bit like focusing your eyes on them. And, as you probably learned in grade school, even one or two pair of sunglasses is not adequate protection for staring at the sun or welding. If you think of it that way, you’ll probably never damage your camera’s image sensor.
And if the light doesn’t blind them, the intensely hot spot might literally overheat and wreck the microscopic elements and wiring in the sensor.
Back to Debra and the G11 for medical-office use: I hadn’t thought of bleach being used to sterilize instruments, and of course you mustn’t autoclave the camera (and probably not the dive case). But you know your bactericides and how plastics and latex react to them, so use that as a guide, of course.
Yes, I got carried away in listing all the flash attachments designed to function well with the camera. (Maybe I was daydreaming of what I’d do if I were to take the padlock off my credit card.) There are accessory lenses, too, for close-up, wide angle, and telephoto use. In this accessorizing the G11 is unusual. Only the more complex, heavy and expensive SLRs, as seen in the TV crime shows, offer better opportunities, I think.
As for CSI and other shows using Nikons: Many companies pay for product placement, and Nikon may be one of them alongside Coca Cola, Hewlett-Packard, and Apple.
March 16th, 2010 at 7:33 am
Hey, boys and girls! If you buy a camera after reading this, or recently got one after getting recommendations here, how about writing us other readers to let us know about your choice? We’d like to know:
o0o What camera you’re moving up from,
o0o what your top picks were and why,
o0o how you made your final choice,
o0o is it making you happy,
o0o do you use a cool feature that future buyers might like,
o0o where’d you get it and how was the store’s service.
Or just a couple of the above.
After recommendations from commenters here, I chose the Canon PowerShot G11 (as if you hadn’t noticed my preferences in answers above). I didn’t want another SLR, but thought I wanted a long-zoom (15x or above) lens and 15+ megapixels.
Stratman questioned me, and determined I was an experienced shooter who misconnected zoom and megapixels with image quality. Sometimes your definitions change!
The G11 has 5x zoom, 10 megapixels, the ability to micromanage your exposures, and RAW as well as JPEG file format. The RAW format is a step towards professional quality, and the 10 mp sensor has better quality than the 15’s that it replaced.
I already threw away my research notes, but I was looking at some of the superzooms named by others above. Although it’s bigger than some, it’s still quite compact for its capabilities. Lots of knobs to adjust things instead of having to click and scroll through endless menus just to change most shot settings.
I bought through amazon.com, about $US 450. I can’t download photos via USB as it should (only by using a card reader), so I’m sending the camera back for replacement.
The pictures and possibilities are great.
March 16th, 2010 at 10:39 am
ok, thank you very much for your answers, they have been very helpful, and now i will prevent to do it (ihave never done that, by the way)
March 18th, 2010 at 11:51 pm
Nice article, it helped me to chose between point and shoot and DSLR.
Thanks.
Tariq
March 20th, 2010 at 5:21 am
Thanks Stratman and rmvandy for your prompt and thorough advice!!!!
Leave a Reply