Should you buy a DSLR or Point and Shoot Digital Camera?

“I’m using a compact point and shoot digital camera and i would like to ask it is worth it to upgrade to a DSLR camera? How huge a difference do DSLR cameras make compared to compact point and shoot digital camera?”
Thanks for the question - I’ll attempt to keep my answer brief and not too technical. This is a question that I’m regularly asked, increasingly so as the price of DSLRs have dropped and become much more in the reach of the average digital photographer’s budget.
Before I start this post you might like to check out two posts looking at the Top DSLR Models and Top Point and Shoot Cameras as voted by our readers.
Let me declare up front that I own both a Point and Shoot digital camera (a Fujifilm FinePix F30) and a DSLR (a Canon EOS 5D). I like having both because I do feel they compliment each other and are each suited for different situations. My preference in terms of quality of shots is with the DSLR but for convenience the point and shoot sometimes wins out.
I also want to say up front that the digital camera industry is constantly evolving and changing. The lines between DSLRs and point and shoots are blurring (or at least this seems to be the intention of manufacturers). What I write below unfortunately will have elements of generalizations in it as I classify hundreds of cameras (each with their own distinctive features) into two camps.
Are Megapixels Everything?
Before I get into the Pros and Cons of DSLRs vs Point and Shoot digital cameras I want to address a common misconception that I regularly hear among digital camera owners - that a cameras megapixel rating is the main thing to consider when determining a camera’s quality.
The fact is that megapixels are NOT everything. Despite point and shoot cameras now coming with up to 10 megapixels (Casio released one last month) their quality level is not necessarily has good as a DSLR with only 8 or so.
The main reason for this (and there are many as we’ll see below) is that the image sensor used in point and shoot digital cameras is generally much smaller than the image sensor used in a DSLR (the difference is often as much as 25 times). This means that the pixels on a point and shoot camera have to be much smaller and (without getting too technical) collect fewer photons (ok I lied about the technicalities). The long and short of it is that because of this point and shoot cameras need to work at slower ISO levels which means that they produce ‘noisier’ (or more grainy) shots.
A lot more could be said on sensor size - but trust me, smaller sensors significantly reduce the quality of an image. I’d much rather have a camera with less megapixels and a larger image sensor than the other way around.
This is one factor that needs to be considered when choosing between a DSLR and point and shoot - but let me run through some more:
DSLRs
A quick definition - unfortunately some camera manufacturers in recent months have released cameras with the DSLR label that technically are not. For the purposes of this article I’ll define DSLR’s as cameras that have removable lenses, that have a reflex mirror which allows live optical viewing through the lens taking the image. ie DSLR’s use a mirror that allows you to see the image you’re about to shoot through the view finder - when you take the shot the mirror flips up allowing the image sensor to capture the image.
Some cameras these days are being touted as DSLRs because you have ‘through lens viewing’ but they are not true DSLR’s - (Digital, Single, Lens, Reflex). This does not necessarily make them a bad camera - but in my opinion it there is a distinction between them.
DSLR Strengths
- Image Quality - I’ve already covered this above in my discussion on megapixels and image sensors - but due to the larger size of image sensors in DSLRs which allows for larger pixel sizes - DSLRs are generally able to be used at a faster ISO which will lead to faster shutter speeds and less grain.
- Adaptability - DSLR’s ability to change lenses opens up a world of possibilities for photographers. While my point and shoot has a nice little 3x Optical Zoom (and many these days have longer ones) my DSLR can be fitted with many high quality lenses ranging from wide angle to super long focal lengths depending upon what I’m photographing (and of course my budget). Add to this a large range of other accessories (flashes, filters etc) and a DSLR can be adapted to many different situations. It should be noted that when it comes to lenses that the diversity in quality of lenses is great. Image quality is impacted greatly by the quality of the lens you use.
- Speed - DSLR’s are generally pretty fast pieces of machinery when it comes to things like start up, focussing and shutter lag.
- Optical Viewfinder - due to the reflex mirror DSLR’s are very much a what you see is what you get operation.
- large ISO range - this varies between cameras but generally DSLRs offer a wide array of ISO settings which lends itself to their flexibility in shooting in different conditions.
- Manual Controls - while many point and shoots come with the ability to shoot in manual mode, a DSLR is designed in such a way that it is assumed that the photographer using it will want to control their own settings. While they do come with good auto modes the manual controls are generally built in in such a way that they are at the photographers finger tips as they are shooting.
- Hold it’s value - some argue that a DSLR will hold it’s value longer than a point and shoot. There is probably some truth in this. DSLR models do not get updated quite as often as point and shoot models (which can be updated twice a year at times). The other factor in favor of DSLRs is that the lenses you buy for them are compatible with other camera bodies if you do choose to upgrade later on (as long as you stay with your brand). This means your investment in lenses is not a waste over the years.
- Depth of Field - one of the things I love about my DSLR is the versatility that it gives me in many areas, especially depth of field. I guess this is really an extension of it’s manual controls and ability to use a variety of lenses but a DSLR can give you depth of field that puts everything from forground to background in focus through to nice blurry backgrounds.
- Quality Optics - I hesitate to add this point as there is a large degree of difference in quality between DSLR lenses (and point and shoot cameras are always improving) but in general the lenses that you’ll find on a DSLR are superior to a point and shoot camera. DSLR lenses are larger (more glass can add to the quality) and many of them have many hours of time put into their manufacture (especially when you get into higher end lenses). I strongly advise DSLR buyers to buy the best quality lenses that they can afford. It it’s the difference between a high end lens on a medium range camera or a medium range lens on a high end camera I’d go for quality lenses every time as they add so much to photos.
DSLR Weaknesses
- Price - while they are coming down in price (especially at the lower end) DSLR’s are generally more expensive than point and shoot digital cameras. Also consider that you might want to upgrade your lens (as kit lenses are generally not of a super high quality) or you may wish to add more lenses later and that this adds to the cost of a DSLR.
- Size and Weight - the only reason I take my point and shoot out with me is on those occasions when I don’t want to lug my DSLR (and it’s lenses) around with me. DSLRs are heavy and sizable and when you add a lens or two to your kit bag you can end up with quite the load!
- Maintenance - a factor well worth considering if you’re going to use a DSLR with more than one lens is that every time you change lenses you run the risk of letting dust into your camera. Dust on an image sensor is a real annoyance as it will leave your images looking blotchy. Cleaning your image sensor is not a job for the faint hearted and most recommend that you get it done professionally (which of course costs). This is a problem that is being rectified in many new DSLRs which are being released with self cleaning sensors.
- Noise - DSLRs are generally more noisy to use than point and shoots. This will vary depending upon the lens you use but while point and shoots can be almost silent when taking a shot a DSLR will generally have a ‘clunk’ as the mechanisms inside it do their thing. I personally quite like this sound - but it’s something that is a factor for some.
- Complexity - while DSLRs are designed for manual use this of course means you need to know how to use the tools that they give you. Some friends that have bought DSLRs in the past few months have told me that they were a little overwhelmed at first by the array of settings and features. The learning curve can be quite steep. Having said this - all DSLRs have fully Automatic mode and many have the normal array of semi-auto modes that point and shoot digital cameras have.
- No live LCD - in many DSLRs the only way to frame your shot is via the optical viewfinder. Some photographers prefer to use a camera’s LCD for this task. This is another thing that is changing with more and more new DSLRs having a ‘Live View’ LCD which enables you to frame your shots without looking through the view finder (update: please note that Live View isn’t perfect - check out the comments of NormMonkey below who shares more.
So what DSLR do I recommend?
Let me point you to a recent post here at DPS listing the Top 20 DSLRs as owned by our community members. I am a Canon fan myself but the Nikon DSLRs on the list get great reviews as do the others. Also check out the new Canon EOS 40D that’s just been announced (available now for preorder at Amazon).
Point and Shoots
While some people write off all non DSLR’s as inferior I think they’ve got a lot going for them and would highly recommend them depending upon the level of photography that you engage in, your budget, the things that you’ll want to do with your photos and the subject matter that you will be shooting. You’ll also notice below that I note that the Point and Shoot market options available are improving. Some of the weaknesses I note are being improved by manufacturers lately on some of their models. Here’s some Pros and Cons of point and shoot digital cameras.:
Point and Shoot Digital Camera Strengths
- Size and Weight - to be able to slip a camera in a pocket as you dash out the door to a party is a wonderful thing. These days point and shoot cameras can be slim and light - to the point of not even knowing you’ve got them with you. This is great for parties, travel and all manner of situations. Of course some point and shoots can be quite bulky too (especially some of the super zoom models on the market).
- Quiet Operation - this was the thing I noticed about my new point and shoot the most. Not only didn’t my subjects not notice I’d taken shots of them at times, once or twice it was so quiet that even I didn’t notice I’d taken a shot.
- Auto Mode - the quality of images produced in point and shoots varies greatly, but in general they shoot quite well in auto mode. I guess manufacturers presume that this style of camera will be used in auto mode (or one of the other preset modes) mostly and as a result they generally come pretty well optimized for this type of shooting (as do many DSLRs these days).
- Price - in general point and shoot digital cameras are cheaper. Of course you can go to the top of the range and spend as much as you would on a cheaper DSLR, but most are in a much more affordable price bracket.
- LCD Framing - as I mentioned above, many digital camera users prefer to frame their shots using LCDs. Point and Shoots always come with this ability and some even come with ‘flip out’ screens that enable their users to take shots from different angles and still see what they’re shooting.
Point and Shoot Digital Camera Weaknesses
- Image Quality - point and shoots generally have small image sensors which means that the quality that they produce is generally lower. This is slowly changing in some point and shoots but in comparison to DSLRs they still have a way to go. It’s worth saying however - that if you’re not planning on using your images for major enlargements or in professional applications that the quality of point and shoot cameras can be more than enough for the average user. Manufacturers are making improvements all the time in their technology and even in the last year or two I’ve noticed significant image quality improvements.
- Smaller ISO range - once again this is changing slowly (my point and shoot has the ability to shoot to 1600 ISO) but in general ISO ranges are more limited in point and shoot cameras - this limits them in different shooting conditions.
- Speed - point and shoot digital cameras were always notorious for their slowness, particularly their ’shutter lag’ (the time between pressing the shutter and when the image is taken. This is constantly being improved but the instantaneous feel of many DSLRs is still not there with point and shoots when it comes to shutter lag, start up and even focusing time.
- Reliance upon LCD - most point and shoot digital camera rely almost completely upon their LCD for framing. While some enjoy this others like to use a viewfinder. Most point and shoot cameras have view finders but they are generally so small that they are almost useless. Some models don’t have viewfinders at all (increasingly a trend).
- Manual Controls Limited - many point and shoot cameras do have the ability to play with a full array of manual settings and controls (or at least make it difficult to do so). They often come with ‘aperture priority’ and ’shutter priority’ modes which are great - but quite often the manual controls are hidden in menu systems and are not as accessible as on a DSLR (if they are there at all).
- Less Adaptable - while they are highly portable point and shoot cameras are generally not very adaptable. What you buy when you first get them is what you are stuck with using for years. Some do have lens adapters to give you wider angles or longer zooms but generally most people don’t go for these accessories.
Which Point and Shoot digital cameras do I recommend?
Once again let me point you to the Top 10 Point and Shoot Digital Cameras as used by the DPS community. There are some fantastic cameras in the list including the Canon PowerShot Pro Series S3 IS.
Should You Buy a DSLR or a Point and Shoot Digital Camera?
This is ultimately a question that you need to answer for yourself. My answer is to have both (I’m fortunate to be able to do so) but if I had to choose between one or the other I’d get a DSLR based upon my experience level, the type of photos I take, my desire to use manual settings and the quality of image that I’m after.
If your situation is different to mine however and you want a portable camera that takes good pictures that you’ll mainly use for small prints and emailing that you’ll mainly shoot in auto mode - you’ll probably be quite happy with a cheaper point and shoot.


71 Responses to “Should you buy a DSLR or Point and Shoot Digital Camera?”
August 24th, 2007 at 1:55 am
Not actually answering the question, I would suggest a camera that occupies the middle ground between P&S and DSLR. I’m very pleased with our Canon S3IS and Lumix DMC_FZ7. Not the superior quality of a DSLR but both have manual controls that a P&S usually lacks.
August 24th, 2007 at 2:13 am
One big disadvantage of point and shoots which should be mentioned is that they tend to have large depth of field at every f/stop. The article mentions depth of field flexibility in terms of lenses and settings for a DSLR, but the issue is really more a function of the camera formats.
Even shooting wide open (at the lowest f/stop) it can be quite hard to get the nice blurred background with the very small sensor of a point and shoot (I have seen it said that at normal focal length, the depth of field of a point and shoot at f/2.8 is about the same as a DSLR at f/13). This can be great for things like macro photography, but makes it quite difficult with many point and shoots to get nice blurred backgrounds.
I learned this the hard way when I bought a long-zoom point and shoot a couple of years back — the biggest frustration I had was the enormous and inflexible depth of field.
EL
August 24th, 2007 at 2:44 am
Another drawback of P&S cameras is that they tend not to save RAW file formats. I could be wrong, but I seem to remember that many of them did do RAW several years ago. Now, I think the only Canon P&S camera that supports RAW is thier G9, and that was re-added since the G8 didn’t have it. Don’t know if they’re still making the S70, but that one has RAW too. Personally, I would love to buy the SD870 IS, but without RAW, I don’t think I’m gonna.
A friend just referred me to your site, by the way; good work!
Shawn
August 24th, 2007 at 3:37 am
When people ask me this, I usually ask if they like to use all the settings on their point and shoot. If they are the sort of person that tends to be happy with auto & “night”, they’re probably not going to enjoy the myriad settings on a DSLR, and the quality improvement of pictures is going to be minimal i.e. not worth the cost and size.
I say this having shot with a point and shoot for two years before my DSLR, and I tried about every single setting and trick I could with that little camera before I decided I’d hit the limits of what it could do technically.
I do agree with EL about depth of field. It is the first thing one notices about using an SLR compared to a point and shoot and it’s a beautiful thing.
August 24th, 2007 at 3:44 am
Well, personally I find quite convenient to have one of each as you cannot always carry your DSLR with you.
I’m quite happy with Ricoh Caplio R6 but new shock and water proof Olympus SW 790/795 might be the perfect companion of a DSLR too as it they get access where DSLR’s can hardly go.
Regrettably RAW format is only available on the Panasonic LX-2 / Leica D-Lux 3.
August 24th, 2007 at 6:45 am
Most people will “upgrade” from point and shoot to DSLR. so in that case, they too have best of both worlds
August 24th, 2007 at 8:07 am
I agree with Cedric. Best to have both.. I find my canon digital elph stuck in my pocket going everywhere with me, while my DSLR gets left behind for many events either from fear of theft or damage..
August 24th, 2007 at 1:19 pm
Another great article and observant responses too.
I say both as Cedric noted! The dSLR for the creativity, flexibility, high shutter rate, etc, etc and the P+S for the small size, have it with me all the time convinience.
Also as Shawn said, I would love RAW in my P+S. Most though have antiquated implimentations which renders it too slow to be usable.
August 24th, 2007 at 4:59 pm
May I say that the DSLR’s are not noisier than compact camera’s?
Because of the small sensor in a compact cam, the pixels stand very close to each other and create so more noise.
And the DSLR’s do have most of the time a better noise reduction. Look at a picture made with an 350D at ISO 1600, and a picture with an compact cam at ISO 1600.
In my opinion is the compact cam more noisy than you ever want.
Or am I wrong?
August 24th, 2007 at 7:10 pm
Since I use my photos only for collection purpose, and for sending them via email, I find P&S camera very good. I have got a Canon Powershot SD1000, and it is much much better than what I had expected. :-)
August 24th, 2007 at 8:14 pm
Christel, the noise referred to was mechanical, not image. By their very nature a DSLR has a lot of mechanics to operate the mirror and shutter, and make a satisfying, if noisy, shutter clunk.
P&S cameras can be almost silent, even if the manufacturer has added a “fake” shutter sound for psychological reasons.
:o)
August 25th, 2007 at 12:57 am
I have a Nikon D50 and I am looking into purchasing a P&S camera as well. I don’t carry my DSLR with me for the reason of I have so much additional equipment (Lensbabies, extra lenses, batteries, filters, etc…) and I don’t like half done shots. Needless to say I can’t just whip it out like you can with a P&S so for those “moments” you just want to catch right then and there I think a P&S is a smart addition. I think it is very beneficial to have one of each and each one have strengths and weakness that can compliment each other.
August 25th, 2007 at 3:30 am
A quick note about Live View on dSLRs: this feature is not designed to work the same way it does on P&S cameras. Users planning to jump from P&S to a dSLR with LV, who plan to use it to frame their shots the same way they do with their P&S, will be sorely disappointed.
The Live View in a dSLR helps the photog deal with situations like ground-level or above-head shooting, when you can’t see through the viewfinder. You pay a price, though: there’s a shutter lag when using LV (the mirror snaps down and then back up), and the LV can’t focus well. As well, the displayed histogram on the LV may be off from the actual shot, especially for edge cases (long exposures, IR photography).
–
Technical details: dSLRs have their AE and AF sensors behind the mirror. While the mirror is up out of the way for Live View, the camera can’t focus nor can it get exposure info (beyond adjusting the sensor’s sensitivity). When the user wants to take a shot, the mirror snaps back down so the AE and AF sensors can do their thing. As well, the shutter must close and the sensor must be cleared and reset. Then the mirror snaps back up and the exposure proceeds as normal.
More technical details: In a P&S camera, the AE and AF can be done using data right from the sensor. The much larger sensors (smaller DoF) and finer optics in a dSLR require using the traditional AF methods.
August 25th, 2007 at 3:49 am
I’ve thought off-and-on about getting a P&S for the pocket-size convenience for a long time.
I keep deciding not to. I figure
(a) if an image is worth taking, it’s worth taking with the best equipment;
(b) why buy an expensive camera and leave it on the shelf?
(c) I can take just my camera and one attached lens in a smaller pouch to specific events, if I want less weight (not quite the same as P&S, but less weight than my full kit);
(d) I could the P&S money towards some quality optics.
It’s true there’s no dSLR substitute for having a tiny camera in-pocket, available at all times. I’d just rather get in the habit of bringing my good camera with me everywhere, instead.
August 25th, 2007 at 6:01 am
I bought a $1900. DSLR but took it back and got a SILENT camera; the shutter sound scared away the big game I was shooting.
August 25th, 2007 at 6:55 am
Here’s another subtle point: P&S cameras are usually designed to produce “snappier” pictures right off the bat, while dSLRs are usually calibrated for a more neutral output. Those moving from a P&S to a dSLR will see this and wonder why the dSLR picture doesn’t always look any better. I have both types of cameras and I find I must frequently sharpen and enhance my dSLR pictures to give them a bit more zip.
August 25th, 2007 at 8:17 am
Thanks Norm Monkey - great commments on Live View!
August 25th, 2007 at 1:05 pm
Er, what cameras are being marketed as dSLRs when they’re not? If you mean the new “live view” feature on some models, note that they *all* also can operate in normal mirror-to-viewfinder mode.
August 25th, 2007 at 2:17 pm
I have a higher end P&S Sony R1 and I love it for what I shoot. Altho it looks like a dslr and has the RAW capability, manual settings, scene modes etc…for me it works the best because of shooting in so much dust. My biggest fear of moving into a dslr is dust along with the expense of various lenses. I may not have a choice as there are few cameras coming out that will fill the footprints of the R1. The combination of limited budgets, small end user groups, desired results, ease of operation, and total expense, make for a niche market that few cameras manufactures care to fill.
August 26th, 2007 at 5:48 am
Lizzy — Pentax K10D (and presumably its successors) will give you a dust-sealed dSLR at a relatively affordable price. Probably better-sealed than the Sony R1, actually.
August 26th, 2007 at 9:23 am
I got similar questions from my friends many times. My standard reply to them is “what do you want to get from the digital photos”
It looks nice to carry a DSLR with big lens running around but it is heavier and most likely more expensive. It requires some level of technical skill and most important - the work after taking the photo.
I usually recommend the beginner to have a simple pocket size point and shoot camera first. The new P&S camera product reasonable quality pictures. I always stress that photography is largely depends on the mood, the time you take the photo. The more you do, the better picture you can make. Carry a big camera may hinter the creativity for ordinary people
August 27th, 2007 at 4:11 am
I have a Canon Ixus 40 (elph in the US) and a Canon powershot s3is. The Ixus fits in my shirt pocket - and therefore I can use it everywhere. The s3is was my “upgrade” to a real camera - and I love it - I use all the manual settings - but I have to admit that the DOF and the noise are problematic. To ensure a decent picture - I need an ISO of less that 200 (I normally only use 100 or 80) or else… And I can only get a narrow DOF with macro - or when I use max zoom. And it has a 12x zoom - so to take a good portrait I need a great distance…
I sometimes wonder why no one builds a “non-DSLR” with a large sensor - exchangeable lenses? The mirror with its mechanic parts we don’t need and therefore it will be cheaper than a real dSLR - and I will be able to afford it ;-) Okay there’s probably some technical reason why..
August 29th, 2007 at 2:46 am
Heather Kay: Thanks for the explanation.
August 29th, 2007 at 5:55 am
I have both. The reasons I have the DSLR are all mentioned above. The P&S, mostly covered. The other reasons are:
1) Theft. P&S in my pocket is way less obvious and less appealing of a target than my Lumix. Especially relevant for travelers.
2) Video. No, it’s not professional quality, but if a picture is worth a thousand words, a video could be worth a thousand images. Scenario: The palm trees swaying in a hurricane.
3) Underwater. DSLR underwater cases are like 1000 USD. I got a bag for my Lumix for 15 USD. Again, not pro, but fun at the pool or snorkeling.
4) Sturdiness. Just like beetles survive greater falls than people, small cameras survive greater falls than big’uns. (with exceptions).
My Panasonic Lumix (DMC-FX9) is ALWAYS with me. Leica optics guarantee quality images, and the size is just right. It also does great macro without requiring another 300 USD lens. ;)
August 29th, 2007 at 5:16 pm
in my case, i would prefer having both. but since i dont have the budget, i only have a point and shoot.
August 31st, 2007 at 8:52 am
As these type of questions are asked for new photography enthusiast, as like my self, I certainly suggest to start with P&S. I just bought a Canon IXUS70 and am happy with it. To a certain extend I can learn to use different ‘manual’ setting thats available with the camera. Since I am stil learning how to get good pictures, I have not concentrate on detail tecnicalities. Until I feel I am able to get good decent pictures with my P&S I wll then later consider looking at DSLR.
September 1st, 2007 at 7:07 pm
My Canon 300D has been stolen. Together with all three lenses. That camera just was fantastic. However, I couldn’t spent all theta money again to instanstly buy another DSLR.
I decided to give a P&S camera a shot and got the Canon IXUS 60. I am really positively surprised. And I love the video feature, which I never could do with the DSLR before. Of course another DSLR is still on my shopping list. But I do not want to miss my IXUS anymore.
Yes, both systems complement each other
September 5th, 2007 at 5:03 pm
Recently I was searching for a point and shoot camera and I decided on the Fujifilm F31fd. The camera provides manual functions such as the aperture or shutter priority. The night shots was fantastic!
I feel DSLR is a good investment only if you are thinking of becoming a serious photographer. For the start I will go for a good digital point and shoot camera. If my photography develops into next level of interest and I do not mind carrying a DSLR when I travel, I guess I really do not mind getting a DSLR.
September 25th, 2007 at 4:32 am
Like most people who post messages in places like this, I suffer from sporadic bouts of gearhead-ism. It’s easy to forget that taking great photos is (give or take) 80% setting up a great shot, 15% knowing how to use your camera, 4% the camera itself, and the last 1% is just plain stupid luck.
Case in point: I won a Backpacker Magazine photo contest a couple years back. Aperture? Film speed? No idea. The photo worked because the sunset over the Alaskan ocean cast the icebergs in surreal shades of orange and pink. The camera was a 2mp Canon A40. 2mp, right.
Get out there and take some pictures.
September 26th, 2007 at 2:16 pm
I think the decision would primarily depend upon the user’s interest. a casual photographer doesnt need a DSLR. and if a newbie is interested then i think he must initially start with a gud PnS cam like the S3 IS, etc. Once you know how to work on some manual functions and the technicalities, then move onto the DSLRs.
October 6th, 2007 at 5:11 am
I bought the Canon s3, and I’ve yet to be disappointed with the quality of the pictures. It got the best reviews of a point and shoot camera within a price range even 200-300$ more then it costs. I strongly recommend this camera to anyone who wants an advanced point and shoot with the ability to take great “off the cuff” auto mode photos as well as a great deal of control over settings in manual mode.
October 14th, 2007 at 4:52 am
I am off to buy the casio ex-v8sr for the sole purpose of macro photography in the operating room. I have a DSLR but used my sony cyber shot with 10x lens for years with great success until it died and then my nikon S10 also with great success until it was stolen. I have tried all P&S, including leica etc and found the focusing capability of the casio the best to get into a small space of 1″ wide and 1″ deep with perfect focus the best…multiple AF modes. Not sure though technically advantage of 3x versus 7x lens helping me with macro but I have found that works even though I believe it helps zoom principally. I have found that I can get a sharper image with a smaller size file with the better lens.
Hope this helps.
October 14th, 2007 at 2:05 pm
I completely agree with Carl.
As on today one may really wonder if it is really worth the effort for a hobbyist (PS) to getting toward Pro-hobbyist(cheap DLSR). The advancement in normal ps and bridge cameras are really fast paced. It may really not be as pleasant an experience initally considering the effort. For layman better keep patience and persistence (chewing gum) as the learning curve is pretty steep from novice and amateur to pro-hobbyist to pro.
Better anyone buy Bridge SLR like S5IS Canon or Kodak Z series with very good chromatics and optics.
For Pro-hobbyists like me, the Pentax K100D (i like that) or Nikon D40, D50 is the choice to make.
For Pros no limits..
October 22nd, 2007 at 11:51 pm
I just bought the Olympus E-500 on clearance, and I have been playing with it for the last two days. I am very happy with the quality of the photos, and the auto-mode suits most of my purposes very well. Perhaps the only thing I regret about getting a dSLR is the lack of video mode, plus the size of the camera. I am travelling for a year in Canada, and I indend to spend weeks in the Rockys taking photos, but I also would like to spend ages partying with a smaller, more versatile camera with a video setting. Thus, the expenditure of another $250-400 seems justified, considering that it will be for a year.
In short:
dSLR pros- high image quality, manual zoom, manual f-stop, iso, shutter, etc, but still with very good Auto mode, can get very good lenses.
dSLR cons- no video, bulky, expensive (lenses cost more)
So on the whole, a dSLR’s pros far outweigh the cons unless you are desperate for video or pocket-shooting.
On the other hand, I could just remember things!
November 30th, 2007 at 3:57 am
I have both. I have the nikon d50 which is my primary camera because I am a person who loves to shoot in all manual (it gives me the feeling I truly own a picture and the camera was only a tool not a crutch). I also own a olympus stylus 720 SW. This was for my social life. Its shock, water, heat, and cold proof. Perfect for those spontaneous things that happens with friends.
Now here comes the cons of each since u have already heard the pros
Con’s Dslr- heavy and expensive. One thing that most people don’t take into consideration is looks. People give u very strange looks when u have a large lens like the sigma 10-24mm lense on it. (Personally I love it because they ask stupid questions like how many mega pixels that thing has. When that is a very ignorant question in many cases because Mega-pixels are nothing if there is no room to put them on a sensor.)
Con’s P&S- bad image quality, far less control, no viewfinder is a big one for me, and no looks :p
Unless you know how to control iso, Shutter speed, and Aperture stay with P&S. Because there is no point in buying a 500 guitar if you can’t play a cord.
Then when you know how these elements affect a frame move up and and enjoy the fun of a DSLR
December 18th, 2007 at 5:31 pm
I would like to by a point-shoot camera.
Pixels is 6 mp enough. So, i go for Canon S3IS, what u recommend as above.
But i want to know about the lens.
I am instrested in Potrait, Wildlife & Birds Photography (ZOO) actualy my expection is to cover more than 400-600mtrs.
Even i dont know hot to calculate the between distance to lens.
How to consider the lens for my photography.
So, Please guide me to reach my aim.
Thank,
Nandha.
January 8th, 2008 at 5:19 am
THANKYOU for this post. So useful. Explained things in clear terms.
June 1st, 2008 at 7:03 pm
Wow! 6 mo’s since the last comment. OK..well I guess I’m the perfect candidate to post a reply. I have been shooting for the last couple of years on a Canon S3IS P&S. That is an excellent camera with a very long zoom-12x optical which is the equvalent to around a 400-500 mm telephoto lens. However when you get to the 6x’s plus end of that the quality goes bye bye. I just purchased a Canon 40D dslr with a couple of good lenses. It is amazing how much more you can do with this camera. The 2 bottom lines are;
1. $$$$ …Are you committed and serious enough to spend thousands of dollars for a good camera body, 2-3 good lenses (that will cost more than all but the very top of the line SLR’s), filters-each lens takes a different sized filter, bag, tripod-good one’s are expensive, multiple memory cards, battery, lens hood’s), Adobe Photoshop.
2. Are you willing to carry around the extra weight of everything you need to take with you including a tripod if you are into landscape/wildlife?
If you don’t plan on becoming serious about photography either as a hobby or profession, if you plan on making 4×6 or 5×7 prints, and if you don’t like a heavy/large load with you then I highly suggest you get a good point & shoot like the Canon S5IS, Canon SD series-most are 10 mp’s, or the highly recommended (by pro’s) Canon G9; 12 mp P&S. important note; megapixels are definately not everything to look for in any camera.
June 7th, 2008 at 11:10 pm
I think one important issue is public safety. Walking around questionable areas with expensive DSLR equipment, especially when you are travelling, might not be the wisest idea. Unfortunately, some of the most interesting and grandest objects to take photographs of sometimes are near areas where the staff at the hotel you are staying at warn you to be careful. Just a thought.
June 14th, 2008 at 10:01 pm
The greatest deciding factor in the DSLR upgrade decision isnot the abilities of the camera but the ability of YOU. Only go for a DSLR if you understand fully and completely what is going on inside. There is so much more that can go wrong with a DSLR than a compact and if you don’t know what you’re doing properly then simply don’t bother. A DSLR will not make you a better photographer. Most likely it will complicate the process.
July 6th, 2008 at 9:14 am
I could use some help. I bought a Kodak Z1012 IS and I’ve been trying to decide whether to return it or not. Even when I’m not zooming, it takes pictures which appear either grainy or blended upon any close inspection. Blow it up to real size on a computer and the colors begin to bleed together, like in a watercolor. Is this a failing of the model? I’ve tampered with the manual settings, and while they allow me to capture daylight more accurately than the Auto setting, they don’t help this “watercolor” problem. Can anyone help with some advice?
July 6th, 2008 at 5:48 pm
Dan-you definately should not see what you are seeing. I would return it and get a new one or a different camera all together-for $300 you should be able to pick up a Canon S5IS. It is the same type of camera that you have-body style. It doesn’t have 10 mp’s like the one you got but it is a very good p&s camera. It also has the same zoom range as the one you got-12x. The image quality is very good. If you have another $200 you can get the Canon G9 which is one of the best P&S camera’s on the market. Good luck.
July 13th, 2008 at 2:19 pm
hi!
I’m an amature photographer.
Well…i’m about to buy a new DSLR, and on the top of the list was Sony ALPHA series. I think i’m getting Sony Alpha350. First of all, it has 14.2 megapixel, got liveview function with 2.5fps burst mode.
And the price of it was only US$ 799 including 18-70 lens. Can anyone of you tell me why shouldn’t i buy that camera? ANd if so, which camera should i be gettin with reasonable price like sony and that price depreciation last longer?
thanks
October 2nd, 2008 at 12:44 pm
Actually, my view on the whole subject is a lil different from everything i’ve read thus far…
it basically comes down to owning two cameras… first and foremost, if you’re reading this, you’re probably going to want to get a dslr anyways, so get one where you can upgrade to FULL FRAME later… meaning, either canon, or the new sony alpha line… the reason for this is that, well, full frame has many more advantages, the biggest for me would be the much larger viewfinder (thus far easier manual focusing).
That shouldn’t be a big purchase though, as the entry level cameras for either sony or canon are around $500. if you can, get JUST the body without the lens, and put the money you saved from not buying the lens kit towards buying a higher quality lens. (you’ll have to do research on that one, but key things to look for is the quality of the glass itself [i.e., APO]).
also, avoid the super zoom lenses for SLR’s at all costs… if you want a lens that can go from 20mm - 300mm, you’re better off not owning the lens at all… as you’ll get very poor quality for the tradeoff of less lens changes (and besides, you didn’t just buy a DSLR so you could keep the same lens on it all the time, did you? 0:-) )
anyways… my suggestion would be get two lenses off the bat, one that can do a range of approx 20-70, and another that can do the range of 70-300… (those are approximate values, you’ll probably find the ranges to be smaller, but you get the idea).
okay, having said all that (eesh, that was long, sorry folks!), lets move onto the second camera that in my opinion, you should get…
well, the idea everyone shares is to get a point and shoot… i’d like to take that one step furthur… the whole reason one would get a point and shoot would be for convenience, but what can be more convenient then… a camera phone…
that’s right… instead of buying a good point and shoot… just put that money towards a good camera phone and you’ll be set =)… this offers several advantages, but primarily… you’ll have your camera with you… always…
and then you can take your dslr with you whenever you actually expect to take a photo… and use the camera phone when you don’t expect to take a photo…
just my two cents… er… more like two hundred cents o.O
–Dan @ School
October 30th, 2008 at 5:17 am
hi, i want to know that what is the maximum possible optical zoom possible in DSLRs today? which is this lens and which DSLR it fits? Can you give an idea of the maximum possible zoom by providing a picture at no zoom and then the same picture at maximum zoom??
October 30th, 2008 at 5:18 pm
You need to do a little research on slr’s it seems. The fact that your question asks what it does tells me that you are just starting to consider getting one. A dslr body is just a very good base for your photography tools. The lenses available to use with a dslr are where your big decisions will come. To answer your ? though…the longest telephoto (zoom) lens that I know of would be a Canon 1200mm. If you use it on a 1.6x crop body you will be at 1920mm. You can use a 2x extender with it to make it 3840mm. The cost for this monstrous beast is astronomical. You could put a down payment on a very nice house (in some states you could buy a house for less)for about the same amount you would pay to own a 1200 mm lens…about $90,000. It weighs 36 lbs, it’s almost 3 ft long and the tripod that you need to use it would require you to join a gym. I don’t even know if you can get one anymore. There aren’t even that many that actually get used…Sports Illustrated owns 2 of the few in existence.
So as you can see, your question is really not appropriate being that you are at the beggining stages. I must say though …it is kind of a fun question…you need to ask yourself, what do you want to do with your interest.
October 31st, 2008 at 4:07 am
Let me first thank you for the prompt reply. However, I do not agree that my query is inappropriate and funny. Money is not a problem here. The reason I asked you this question was that it has not been answered anywhere on the internet. Atleast what I know of. Sometimes I want to capture something that is perched high on a mountain or a building but quite far away. For example, an eagle on a highrise building which i have mananged to locate. Now without a powerful zoom lens, i cannot take a close detail of just its head, if i wanted too. I could give you many more examples like these but I suppose you must have got my point. It does not matter if I am about to begin to explore DSLRs.
Can you also tell me how much zoom is 1200mm in terms of X for example 2X, 3x, 5x or 10x or more optical zoom?
October 31st, 2008 at 12:10 pm
12x optical is 432mm. That is the best comparison I can get. Most p & s cameras don’t go past 12x optical zoom. It is not a good comparison though because when you get past about 5 or 6x optical zoom on a p & s the quality is gone. But with a good super telephoto lens attached to a dslr you will achieve good quality right to the end of the zoom range. Or if you are using a prime (fixed focal length) lens even better quality can be achieved. And actually I was wrong about the longest lens. The absolute longest still camera lens on the planet is made by Nikon. It is 4500 mm. I don’t know if it is compatible with tele extenders or not but I do know that there are only 4 in existence and they are approximately 1.2 million dollars. Excuse me if I offended you with my answer but I did not realize that you were so fortunate to be able to say that $ is no issue. I wish I could say that. Anyway ….if you are looking for serious focal length to shoot close ups of birds or dangerous wildlife or anything small that you can’t get close to, you will be fine with 500-600mm’s along with a tele-extender. The bottom line is….camera’s are not telescopes and no matter how long your focal lenth is…you will always want more. Happy shooting.
November 1st, 2008 at 5:33 am
I am so fortunate to have found you that you have answered all my queries so well. thank you. don’t worry, you did not offend me, its just that i felt strange that you found my initial query inappropriate and funny. anyway forget it.
what you think about olympus 570-uz’s 20x optical zoom? Olympus claim that “the SP-570 UZ provides a wealth of creative control without the expense of an SLR”. Do you agree? do you think that their 20x optical zoom along with TCON-17 (1.7x) Tele Conversion Lens + Lens Adapter Tube (CLA-10) will give me great results even though the 570-uz is NOT a DSLR?
I totally agree that i would always want longer and longer focal lengths. i want such a focal length that i should be able to click the black pupil of a bird a mile away. At the same time i am a huge fan of macro photography.
November 3rd, 2008 at 2:44 pm
Shaheen, there is really no comparison between a long optical zoom (like the one you are referring to) and a dslr with a long telephoto lens. The differencene between the 2 will be noticably different right away. Not only in the final results but in the options you will have when shooting. If you want you could do a comparison on your own. Go to a camera shop where they rent camera’s and lenses; Rent a good dslr like a Canon 40d or if they have it a 50d. Along with a 300mm or 400mm lens and tele extender. Of course you will need a tripod for truly sharp results. To answer your other ? about the results from the tele converter and lens adapter tube….You will not get great results….the more adapters and extenders you add, the more quality you will loose…even with a dslr. It really depends on what you are going to be using your photos for. If it is purely for enjoyment and the final result will not be a large print to put in a portfolio or in a frame on a wall somewhere then you will be fine with the stuff you are considering. I have tried the p & s with long optical zoom and the results did not satisfy me. I invested in a dslr and have grown as an amatuer photographer quite a bit. Just the fact that you have a dslr will send you on your way to learning more about photography and will open up a lot more doors as far as what you are able to do. But remember this….just because you have a great expensive camera and the best lenses that money can buy will not make you a better photographer. The most important piece of equipment is what’s behind the camera…you. If you gave Art Wolfe a $9.99 disposable camera from the grocery store and gave an amatuer the best equipment possible and had them shoot the same thing, I bet Art Wolfe would walk away with pictures worthy of gracing the pages of National Geographic. The other guy…he may get lucky and come out with 1 keeper out of 500 shots.
December 26th, 2008 at 3:12 am
Hi, My daughter had a Sony Cybershot DSC P-150 stolen from her. She liked the camera but now wants a digital SLR. Does not take many pictures and size is of course different. What is better? She originally paid close to $500.00 for Cybershot but I don’t want to spend even that much to replace camera. What to do?
January 1st, 2009 at 1:50 am
Wow this is a great post!
I feel that I am a pretty good ameteur photographer with my P&S, mostly with my compositions- but I know I have a LOT to learn! I was contemplating buying a DSLR but wondered if I should and if I was ready? Thanks to everyone here sharing their expertise it helped me make my decision.
Oh, in case you are wondering, I realized that I really NEED to learn the inner workings better of a camera before I can put a DSLR to good use- SO I will be purchasing a high-end ($800) P&S before moving up.
January 21st, 2009 at 9:24 pm
Hi What a fantastic way to gain knowledge from an expert. I have just purchased a 2nd hand Panasonic Lumix DMC FZ5 and by looking at your website I got a number of excellent tips.
Great work team.
Peter Harker Bowen Nth Queensland
January 22nd, 2009 at 5:26 pm
Hai Shaheen,
Once I was in same confusion, ( u can check above Nandh says: December 18th, 2007 at 5:31)
So I keep trying to find out a way, how to find out a right lens according to distance.
And finally I got the formula for that in the website only. Actually this different from your question, but I like to share here.
Now, what you said about (Olympus 570 UZ- 20x) it is a bridge camera.
And it’s also good for under any kind of situation for beginners.
First how to calculate the zoom, which is mentioned in ‘X’.
If, a camera has 10x zoom (i.e. is tele) Then, think what about the wide angel ?
Suppose wide zoom has 26mm / 27mm / 28mm. According to this, it might differs.
E.x. for Zoom ‘ X ’ calculation:
If, Wide angle 26mm, Tele 10x zoom (26 x 10 = 260mm) The lens is 260mm.
If, Wide angle 27mm, Tele 10x zoom (27 x 10 = 270mm) The lens is 270mm.
If, Wide angle 28mm, Tele 10x zoom (28 x 10 = 270mm) The lens is 280mm.
Olympuz 570 UZ -20x (this camera wide 26mm, tele 20x (26 x 20 = 520mm) so, this is 520mm lens.
New launch: (Olympus 590 uz – 26xzoom) (wide 26mm x tele26x = 676mm lens)
Distance in Feet (X) : 20
Subject Size in Feet (Y) : 1
Distance in inches (A) = X * 12 = 20 *12 = 240 inches
Subject size in inches (B) = Y * 12 = 1 * 12 = 12 inches
Magnification (Z) = 1.5 / B = 0.125
(1.5” std. 35mm film camera)
Lens Focal Length in Inches = A / ((1/Z)+1)
=240/((1/0.125)+1)
=240/(8+1)=240/9=26.6667 inches
Lens Focal Length in mm =26.667* 25.4=677.164
Lens Focal Length in mm=677 mm
677mm lens, it will cover the distance & subject.
Thanks & Regards,
Nandhagopal from India.
January 22nd, 2009 at 5:28 pm
Hai Shaheen,
Once I was in same confusion, ( u can check above Nandh says: December 18th, 2007 at 5:31)
So I keep trying to find out a way, how to find out a right lens according to distance.
And finally I got the formula for that in the website only. Actually this different from your question, but I like to share here.
Now, what you said about (Olympus 570 UZ- 20x) it is a bridge camera.
And it’s also good for under any kind of situation for beginners.
First how to calculate the zoom, which is mentioned in ‘X’.
If, a camera has 10x zoom (i.e. is tele) Then, think what about the wide angel ?
Suppose wide zoom has 26mm / 27mm / 28mm. According to this, it might differs.
E.x. for Zoom ‘ X ’ calculation:
If, Wide angle 26mm, Tele 10x zoom (26 x 10 = 260mm) The lens is 260mm.
If, Wide angle 27mm, Tele 10x zoom (27 x 10 = 270mm) The lens is 270mm.
If, Wide angle 28mm, Tele 10x zoom (28 x 10 = 270mm) The lens is 280mm.
Olympuz 570 UZ -20x (this camera wide 26mm, tele 20x (26 x 20 = 520mm) so, this is 520mm lens.
New launch: (Olympus 590 uz – 26xzoom) (wide 26mm x tele26x = 676mm lens)
Try below formula for considering a lens according the distance & subject.
Distance in Feet (X) : 20
Subject Size in Feet (Y) : 1
Distance in inches (A) = X * 12 = 20 *12 = 240 inches
Subject size in inches (B) = Y * 12 = 1 * 12 = 12 inches
Magnification (Z) = 1.5 / B = 0.125
(1.5” std. 35mm film camera)
Lens Focal Length in Inches = A / ((1/Z)+1)
=240/((1/0.125)+1)
=240/(8+1)=240/9=26.6667 inches
Lens Focal Length in mm =26.667* 25.4=677.164
Lens Focal Length in mm=677 mm
677mm lens, it will cover the distance & subject.
Thanks & Regards,
Nandhagopal from India.
January 29th, 2009 at 6:30 am
Great webite Darren - I stumbled across it looking for an answer to a question I had.
For a long time I had a Canon S2-IS, and I grew in interest and ability to where it could no longer do what I wanted to do. But when I had it I was able to make some nice pictures as my knowledge grew. I’ve had my eye on a SLR (Canon 50D), but came across a deal that I absolutely could not refuse on a lightly used Fuji S9100. Nope, it’s not a SLR, but it allows a lot of control over the shots. It’s been fun learning how to adjust things more in-depth to get the shots right, and it’s nice step up from what I was using and still gives me room to grow. I’d have to agree with one of the above posts - in many cases it’s more about your knowledge than your equipment. For example, just because someone can afford a Ferrari doesn’t mean that they’ll be able to outrun BMW’s on a track if they don’t know how to drive it. The point is, keep growing in knowledge and practice, practice, practice. That will do more for your enjoyment of this hobby than dropping a lot of money, discovering you’re not sure (or have no interest in) of how to take full advantage of all the controls to make spectacular pictures. Once you get a feel for what you like to shoot and where you can improve, you can make a solidly educated decision on what equipment to get on the next go around.
February 11th, 2009 at 11:37 am
Great web site. Lots of good info. I have a Lumix DMC FZ7 that has been a wonderful camera. It replaced my Pentax MZ50 film SLR. It has been wonderful to point and shoot with gay abandon and not worry about processing costs. I have just recently upgraded to the Pentax K20 DSLR. Now I have the best of both worlds. Lots of work ahead for me to refamiliarise myself with a true SLR but I look forward to the challange. Despite this, the Lumix will not be too far from hand has it has brilliant manual capabilities but best of all, it will do video…low quality but better than nothing.
February 15th, 2009 at 11:07 am
thank you very much for the very informative article on buyers guide to cameras both point and shoot and dslr. I hope i can start taking good pictures with my dslr. thanks again
April 1st, 2009 at 12:29 am
really enjoy this piece - as I am moving on to my first DSLR soon. :)
April 18th, 2009 at 12:06 am
Thank you very much, I have learned a lot.
So, what do you think about the SONY DSC-HX1 ?
May 25th, 2009 at 7:32 am
Hello there,
I am looking for advice on a camera purchase. I am a mom that loves to take pictures of her kids. My children are in sports and I can’t get enough photos of them. I am still using an old film camera ( it is a Minolta Maxxium 300si) but the pictures come out much clearer and brighter than if I use my son’s digital camera which is a Nikon with 7megapixels and I believe a 5 optical zoom lens. The pictures from his camera tend to turn out either blury or very grainy. Yes, I am well aware this could be my fault. I am not looking to become a pro, I would just like a great camera that will help me to take fantastic pictures of my kids. Maybe have a great shot turned into a poster for their room. Anyway, I don’t know a thing about what to look for so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I would like to learn more about cameras but reading some of your posts, well, it just seems confusing! Help please! Thank you!
May 25th, 2009 at 7:22 pm
First thing….what are you willing to spend on a camera? If your budget is $200-$300 you will want to buy a decent point and shoot digital camera with a good optical zoom range (digital zoom doesn’t matter-once you’re in the digital zoom the quality goes bye-bye) and one with around 10 megapixels so you can print large poster sizes. Also consider the size that you would feel most comfortable with….larger cameras feel more like a camera you can put your hands around…smaller ones are more convenient-you can put it in your purse or pocket. also…get something with a good sized lcd-2.5 or 3 inches. The Canon powershot SX10 IS is 10 megapixels and has a very long 20x optical zoom …but the more you zoom the more you give up in quality with these cameras.
If you’re not too tight on money and you are considering getting a bit more serious (without becoming a pro) then consider buying a DSLR. This takes some learning and practice to know what you’re doing but the capabilities you will have are greater. The cost of a decent DSLR is going to be around $500-$1500 depending on if you buy new or used….check out Craigslist. Look into the Canon Rebel series. Most DSLR’s come with a lens. you will also want to buy a small bag & a memory card or 2…they’re cheap-around $20-$40 for a 2 or 4 gigabyte card. Also…if you are going to be shooting your kids playing sports, a DSLR is going to be a lot more cooperative when it comes to catching action compared to most point and shoots…you usually have to click the shutter and hold the camera for a second or so….with a DSLR you push the shutter button and it is recorded instantly…no shutter lag whatsoever. I hope this helps somewhat….oh…you can always rent a DSLR for a couple days to really be sure you want to spend the money.
Read more: “Should you buy a DSLR or Point and Shoot Digital Camera?#comments#comments” - http://digital-photography-school.com/should-you-buy-a-dslr-or-point-and-shoot-digital-camera#comments#ixzz0GVSuDIGE&A
May 26th, 2009 at 9:19 pm
Hello Ab,
Thank you so much for your reply. I would love to look into purchasing a DSLR camera. I really would not want to lose picture quality due to the zoom on a point and shoot. So if I could bother you one more time, I’d like to ask which DSLR you would recommend for a beginner with room to grow. I know I probably shouldn’t worry much about advanced options seeing as how i don’t really know what I am doing but I would like a camera that is a step or two above average in case I am able to catch on quickly. I would like to be able to hang on to this camera for a long time if I will be spending more money . Thank you again for your time, Sue
May 27th, 2009 at 4:44 am
One thing that I didn’t see in this article was the importance of batteries and making sure that one uses Lithium Ion batteries instead of NiCads. The other thing I didn’t see mentioned is the importance of carrying extra battery packs on location, not just for extra power when a battery runs out of juice, but also if a battery suddenly decides to die on location. There’s nothing worse than losing your battery power without a backup.
Nathan
May 27th, 2009 at 2:02 pm
Hello Sue,
Well…as far as reccomendations on a DSLR you are going to be choosing between Nikon and Canon most likely. There are of course other brands but none have as many lenses to choose from or better image quality…and it’s really all about the lenses…2nd only to the person behind them. When I made my choice from a point and shoot to a DSLR I chose Canon….mainly because I was already familiar with their cameras. For you the choice is up to you…you can’t go wrong with either. The only area that Nikon has that will make any difference to you being that you will be taking pictures of kids in sports is the auto focus system…Nikon has a slight edge over Canon. There are a few other differences but none are much to make a difference. I belong to a photography club and I would say that it is pretty equal as far as Canon users and Nikon. The better images don’t come from the one’s with the better cameras…they come from the better photographers.
So…as far as particular models go….there are a couple of new models just released that are good for video capture as well. The Nikon D5000 (and the Nikon D90)…and the Canon Rebel T1i. They are both a step above entry level DSLR’s and are priced reasonably..around $1,000 with a lens. If you don’t care about video then consider the Canon Rebel XSI; entry level …or the Canon 40D or Canon 50D; both a step above entry level…I recently upgraded from a Canon 40D to a 50D and both are great cameras…the 50D has 15 megapixels compared to 10 for the 40D. If you would like to see some of the images I took with my 40D and my 50D visit my webpage http://lenzfreak.smugmug.com/?preview=1.
Just be sure you pick a lens that has IS …Canon (Image Stabilization) or VR-Nikon…(Vibration Reduction) which will allow you to shoot handheld without worrying too much about a blurry photo result. Also…get somethng with a good zoom range…Canon makes a 55-250mm or a 70-300mm…both have IS. I am not as familiar with Nikon lenses but here is a place you can check them out. I hope this helps you. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/shop/6222/Digital_Cameras_SLR_Digital_Cameras.html
May 27th, 2009 at 11:53 pm
Hi Ab,
Thank you, thank you, thank you for sharing your opinion. I looked at your pictures and I am in awe (and way out of my league)! What a great trip that must have been. My husbands car just died so I will be car searching instead of camera searching for the next week or so. I really appreciate you pointing me in the right direction. Can’t wait to get started! Well, good luck with your future pictures and watch your back around those bears! Thanks again, Sue
June 6th, 2009 at 7:09 am
This is a great article, but I have some questions. Most of my camera hunting will have to be online as I live in the middle of nowhere, but it would be nice to have some questions answered by someone knowledgeable (aka you guys :)) I am mainly interested in shooting macro stuff. I have used just a little Kodak p&s as well as my little sister’s Nikon dslr ( I don’t know the model number, but I know it wasn’t one of the expensive ones as she didn’t spend more than $500 on it). I have trouble getting the crispyness and focus that I want with the p&s, and I found the Nikon to be easy to use and more “camera”ish. I don’t completely suck at photography, but I am not even a real good amateur (think good shots on flickr). I was initially looking for a lower level dslr to have the option of changing lenses, but I wonder if I might be better off spending my money on a nice p&s. I would like some control as I have no problem with learning and experimentation. Any help out there camera people? :)
June 17th, 2009 at 10:12 am
I’ve been looking for a camera and trying to decide between a dSLR and a megazoom. This article and discussion has been very helpful in clarifying the choice. Despite concern that I may be giving up something as to the quality of the images, I think a point and shoot with a long zoom is the better option for me because I don’t want to deal with carrying around and changing lenses and will use the camera far more if I can just pick it up and shoot. I’m interested in the long zoom in anticipation of photographing wildlife on an upcoming trip, and for sports photography. I’ve think I’ve narrowed down the options to the Panasonic Lumix DMC FZ28 (18X zoom, small, light, easy to use — from what I read); the Olympus SP-590 (slightly bigger and heavier but with a 24X zoom that’s reportedly hard to focus when fully extended– but it’s new and there aren’t many reviews out there), and the Canon SX10 IS. I want the camera to be easy to use — but I do want to get good photographs out of it. Can anyone help me figure out which of these three is the best choice? And are there other similar cameras I should be considering? Thanks!
June 17th, 2009 at 12:36 pm
Hello Elaine. I would love to help you but I need to know a few things 1st.
1. What is your budget?
2. What do you plan on doing with your wildlife/sports photographs? Will you be printing and at what size?
3. how much quality are you willing to give up? (this goes along with #2)
June 17th, 2009 at 1:32 pm
Thanks for the quick response!
1. I am planning to spend $300-$500. I’d be willing to spend more if it would get me good quality photos and still meet my other criteria.
2. I will be traveling to Africa later this summer and want a good camera for the trip, with a good zoom so I don’t have to actually walk up close to, say, a lion. As for sports, I plan to use it to photograph family members surfing, playing baseball, basketball. Mostly, I’ll print small photos (4×6 or 5×7), though it’d be great to be able to occasionally print an 8×10. Nothing bigger.
3. As for giving up quality, though, I’m not sure how to answer that. If there were a camera that was as compact, light, and easy to use as a megazoom seems to be, but produced as good quality photographs as a dSLR, that’d be ideal. But I’m strictly an amateur, and mostly, I’d like a camera that makes me look like a better photographer than I am.
June 17th, 2009 at 3:15 pm
Hmmmmm. Interesting challenge. Check out the Canon powershot SX10 IS as a p&s suggestion. It has 20x zoom and 10 megapixels and is around $300. But……..
Oh my god! You are going to Africa!!!!!! Wow…I am jealous. And please, don’t walk up to A LION !
My first thought is to strongly urge you to get an inexpensive DSLR package with a wide to telephoto lens such as a Canon Rebel xsi with 18-55mm lens and also a 55-250mm lens and deal with the heavier camera. (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029X64QU/ref=asc_df_B0029X64QU827077?smid=A163DSNSCVE8H3&tag=shopzilla_rev_1340-20&linkCode=asn) very good deal by the way with the $200 instant rebate. The quality of your images will be much better and you will be able to print a large image of let’s say….A LION. A trip to Africa does not come around too often and photography ops are plentiful for wildlife. However…you will have to deal with more weight (which is not really that heavy considering you will be in Africa) and I know you don’t want that (you should really trade the extra weight for better quality images)
I would say that image quality and sharpness are extremely important factors that you must weigh before making your decision. If you do get a P & S chances are you will not get a hi quality shot zoomed in at 10x, 15x etc. shooting lions in Africa or a head first slide in to 3rd base.
Both of the lenses in the package above have IS-Image stabilization which you definately want. You also need to consider that purchasing a DSLR also means you need to buy memory cards, an extra battery and a bag…which they have for an extra $40 bucks…it’s a photo backpack. You probably wouldn’t have to change lenses too much-you would mainly be shooting with the 55-250mm…if you did want to shoot a landscape or wider angle shot you have your other lens too. You will definately spend over $1,000 on the DSLR package with accessories. I could write all night on the topic….it’s coming down to having to carry more equipment and a heavier camera that costs 3 x’s as much vs. one smaller and lighter camera that still can get you good images if you are not too far away. …but you will definately see a large difference in the DSLR. You will also have a lot more options if you plan to grow as an amatuer photographer. If you have any other ?’s I am happy to give my input.
Leave a Reply