The advent of digital photography swept away one of the most challenging problems in image capture: how to shoot macro without a pile of specialised gear. Now you can get down, dirty and close in the image capture business and make macro the digital way with a 100 per cent success rate.
I know I’m not alone when I say that macro photography is an absorbing activity: to be able to reach into ‘near space’ and record an image that is not easily visible to the naked eye is an attractive option. There is nothing more satisfying than to make a huge print of an insect, mineral specimen or any small object that is normally so tiny to the naked eye and captured with the technique of macro photography.
To shoot macro in the days of film — aside from the requirement of using an SLR camera — you needed a few add-ons to take highly magnified images of extremely small subjects. You could begin by slipping a diopter lens to the front of the existing standard lens … this would impart a degree of magnification; you could also install extension tubes between your normal lens and the camera body; you could also acquire a set of macro bellows and place them between lens and body; and finally, you could invest in a fairly expensive — and optically superb — macro lens that was dedicated to macro shooting; another option was to fit a reversing ring that allowed you to fit the lens on backwards … this improved the lens close up resolution and allowed to you to focus much more closely. But to be honest, it was a hassle — although you can still use these methods if using a DSLR to shoot macro.
These days, digital does it with a dash! With a digital camera — compact or DSLR — even newbies are surprised by how easy it is capture really, really big shots of tiny subjects.
In truth, you can make digital macro photography as basic or as complex as you wish it to be: even with a budget, $200-special digicam you can capture images of the tiny world before you, subjects as small as a matchbox, a match-head or even tinier. The higher-priced compact digicams can do it even better, some offering macro shooting with a powerful zoom lens, so you can stand back a bit.
The other approach is to use a DSLR; it is surprising how powerful a macro camera a circa-$1200 DSLR can become.
What is Macro Photography?
First, an explanatory note for all those with a modicum of photo history and tech basics: the term macro used to refer to the capture of an insect or whatever, that resulted in an image on the 35mm film frame (24×36mm) that ranged from 1:10 to 1:1 the size of the original subject. For its part, the term micro referred to a film image that was larger than 1:1 life size; micro photography could easily give you a 35mm film image of an ant that was itself larger than the original ant.
A CCD or CMOS sensor can be as tiny as 3×4mm, so any definition term that applied in the film days is now obsolete. But the rules that apply in accomplishing successful and satisfying macro photography still stand.
Normal photography works in using a camera to record a sharp image by adjusting the lens-to-sensor distance to attain precise focus: for distant subjects at infinity, like landscapes, the lens is positioned at a minimum lens-to-sensor distance; to capture sharp images of closer subjects, like people, the lens-to-sensor is increased.
In macro photography, a sharp image of a tiny object requires the lens to be positioned much closer still, with the lens moved even further out than for normal photography.
As far as my investigations go, just about all compact digicams and most dSLRs have a selectable macro mode. In some cameras you can select macro mode via an external control, while in others you must access the viewfinder menu.
Think about it: no extra lenses, no macro tubes or bellows, no special lenses. What a wonderful world in which to shoot macro!
Tips for Macro Photography Beginners
Being curious about how digital cameras can capture macro so easily I investigated the subject. Here are my findings, gained by chatting to the tech expert at a major camera company.
Engage macro mode on a digicam and the system adjusts the lens elements to re-arrange them into an array that best suits close focusing. Quite a feat, as even simple camera lenses have a surprising number of lens elements to juggle.
Unfortunately, by engaging macro mode with the vast majority of cameras you lose control of both the lens aperture (f-stop) and shutter speed.
Why is this so important?
The best macro photography — regardless of camera — requires that you use the smallest lens aperture to gain optimum image sharpness and depth of field. Using a small lens aperture means you need more light, so you need to extend the exposure time to make a correctly exposed photograph.
So you can’t reduce the lens aperture to a smaller, more favourable setting; nor can you slow the shutter speed to permit the use of a smaller lens aperture.
For the keen macro makers I’ve discovered a few digicams that do allow the use of macro mode and lens and shutter speed adjustment (see Chosen Few).
With DSLR cameras the macro operation is somewhat different. Select macro and you activate a different chain of events: with any lens fixed to the camera, engaging macro mode on the camera commands the lens aperture to close to its minimum, so extending the depth of field and allowing you to move closer to the subject.
Shooting macro with a compact digicam is easy but you have to forgo a fair bit of control and you need to understand that the demands of an amateur as far as resolution and colour quality are less stringent than the pros.
The pro approach would be to use a purpose-built macro lens on a DSLR. Dedicated macro lenses are not cheap but they are optimised to operate at closer than normal distances. With macro lenses you are unlikely to experience problems such as colour fringing and optical distortion; many macro lenses also compensate for the additional exposure necessary when racking out the lens to distances very different to those used in normal photography.
Read the Second part to this series at Mcro Photography for Beginners Part 2.






28 Responses to “Macro Photography for Beginners – Part 1” - Add Yours
March 24th, 2009 at 8:07 am
Like looking on an another world.. Which it is, in way.
Awesome examples, great read !
March 24th, 2009 at 8:33 am
The secret to get nice insect pictures is to use a flash and shoot at f22. That is the only way to get enough depth of field and no blur.
Personally, I use a right flash (Ray flash). Cant wait for the weather to warm up so I can go hunt some bugs!
March 24th, 2009 at 9:03 am
@alain: focus stacking is another option to increase the depth of field in macro photos.
March 24th, 2009 at 9:20 am
Great read, looking forward to the remainder of the series.
March 24th, 2009 at 1:48 pm
Pardon my ignorance, I’m new taking photos!… Why do we need to shoot at a high f stop?… all the macro photos I’ve seen here, have the subject pretty sharp, but the background blurry, and according to what I read about depth of field was quite the opposite (at least for normal photography) isn’t it? less aperture to capture the subject and the background, and more aperture to focus on the subject and have the bg somewhat blured… I’m quite confused now… can anyone explain please??… thank you so much…
by the way, great article (except for the part that got me all confused! hahaha)
March 24th, 2009 at 1:58 pm
On the other hand you can go shallow on the DOF and end up with some wild macro abstracts. It just depends on the end result that you are looking for.
March 24th, 2009 at 6:42 pm
Saw you talking about insect photography… Guess it’s mostly about larger ones? Any specific tips for shooting ants? (Got a lot of them in my backyard, so at least I wouldn’t have any problems with models… :)
March 24th, 2009 at 7:17 pm
Great article, and perfect timing for it! I was looking just yesterday for a macro lens.. Initially decided for the Tokina AT-Xm100 f2.8 for my D70s, but i just got word that i need to replace the clutch and reshape the valves on my motorcycle (which comes first right now), so i will not afford it pretty soon..
I was wondering, though, and i hope you will forgive me for asking this here, is it possible to use those macro rings with my 50mm F1.8D and/or my 18-70mm?? I think that would be the cheapest alternative, plus, i wasn’t able to find any information for this on the internet so far. I’m talking about the “hollow” rings, no AF, no optics, just extension tubes.
If it is possible, would they be worth it? I know these lens are far from great, but they’re all i have at the moment, so i have to make do with that.
Guess i need a flash unit, as well.. :( Will a SB800 do the trick?
Thank you in advance!
John
March 24th, 2009 at 7:58 pm
Here is an article we wrote on macro photography:
http://blog.burrard-lucas.com/2009/02/behind-the-shot-mosquitoes-emerging/
March 24th, 2009 at 10:06 pm
@alvaro – Depth of field is a function of aperture and magnification. The greater the magnification at an aperture, the smaller the depth of field. In macro work, the magnification is very high (1:1). The depth of field is typically millimetres, and so you need a small aperture (and a steady hand/tripod/flash) to get anything in focus.
March 24th, 2009 at 11:04 pm
Great post Barrie. It’s a great intro. It compliments my 3-part introduction to macro photography very well.
This article is also a great first jump for my SUPER MACRO article that I wrote here on DPS. :)
March 25th, 2009 at 3:32 am
Really great examples. Thanks for sharing!
March 25th, 2009 at 4:46 am
A cheaper alternative to using a dedicated macro lens, is to use a 50mm lens with an extension tube (25mm work very well). The extension tube will allow you to focus the lens A LOT closer (you can easily focus on a penny and fill the frame).
The 50mm lens is a very popular lens, so most camera makers have a cheap one available (Canon’s 50mm f/1.8 is $90), and extension tubes are pretty cheap too (about $75 for an off brand). So, about $165 for a good macro/portrait lens combo!
This won’t work as well as an expensive $400+ macro lens, but the results are surprisingly good.
I’ve also heard you can use a closeup filter (about $100) on your telephoto lens to turn it into a macro.. but I haven’t tried this yet.
March 25th, 2009 at 6:04 am
@alvaro:
The closer you are to your subject, the shallower your depth of field will be. The article is right on as far as information. If you’re still confused, read it again, and check you “3 fs” of depth of field.
March 25th, 2009 at 11:29 am
Thank you!, I think i got it now!! :)
March 26th, 2009 at 12:25 am
Any pointers on using a close up filter (Canon 500D) with a regular lens to take macro photos?
March 27th, 2009 at 8:50 am
Thabks. Nice photos and macro tips.
March 27th, 2009 at 8:56 am
Nice color and nice composition all in the same shot by Image by ecstaticist.
Bob Dale
Master Photographer
March 27th, 2009 at 9:01 am
i tried the close up filter on my lens. i have 500D. it’s a close-up filter not to be mistaken as macro. maybe the equivalent is 1:2-1:3. it means it’s not truly a macro set-up. i tried reversing my lens. i haven’t bought a reversing ring yet as it is hard to find. i just hold it instead but prone to light leaks that ruins pictures. google some DIY macros on the net. it’ll surely help
March 28th, 2009 at 12:05 am
Hi all, thanks for all the great tips,as a new Photographer this is a great site to learn some great things.
I shoot a dslr a-100 Sony which is a great camera for the price and only have a kit lense 18-75mm
and could use all these tips for future shots Thanks
March 31st, 2009 at 12:04 am
Thank you so much for publishing this online it has helped me a lot.
March 31st, 2009 at 12:05 am
You have helped me alot… I only have one question though. . How do i get the lense cap off???
April 1st, 2009 at 11:37 am
@Alain
@Mark
I’m new to macro, and I’m excited and ready to shoot the bugs, flowers, and everything else. I purchased a 105mm, and would like to your input when shooting.
How close should you, do you, need to get to you subject to get a tack sharp image? Should you be a little further away to get this result?
Thanks in advance.
Tom
April 1st, 2009 at 6:33 pm
Magnificent photos of the insects! Wish we could take such quality photos of ours too! ;-)
http://tinyurl.com/cymrdm
May 18th, 2009 at 12:35 am
I highly recommend reading “Understanding Close-Up Photography” by Bryan Peterson. He covers the difference between close-up and macro and things like DOF, extension tubes, the Canon 500D, etc. His books are excellent.
June 26th, 2009 at 7:43 am
Sorry, but i’m still confused.
June 27th, 2009 at 11:51 pm
greart work Barrie
July 1st, 2009 at 1:50 am
Good work Barrie.
I am going to get into macro in the near future.
I am currently looking at either the 150 or 180 Sigma to fit on a Canon 40D. Which would you recommend for Dragonflies etc.
Regards, Mike.
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