Exposure Blending Using Luminosity Masks Tutorial

0Comments

There will be a time when the wizards behind your camera technology conjure up a sensor so powerful they will swallow up any scene and spit it out just as it was – no over, or underexposed areas. Until then, in order to produce an image with a high dynamic range of light, you have to work with the sensors available to you and create your own post-processing magic.

Pink sunset

Image created by blending two exposure with luminosity masks, one for the sky and one for the foreground.

While you, and many photographers, may have relied heavily on HDR programs in your exposure blending quest, many more are now beginning to turn to luminosity masks as a cleaner alternative. Through the use of luminosity masks you can create stunning, balanced images that encapsulate a vast dynamic range of light. They give you incredibly fine control over your imagery in almost every area.

While some HDR programs nowadays produce very natural, clean HDR images, luminosity masks do not affect the original files at all, so there is literally zero image degradation during the blending process. That is why so many digital photographers are beginning to make luminosity masks a staple in their workflow.

What are Luminosity Masks?

Luminosity masks break an image down into various channels of luminosity. In other words, they allow you to make very specific selections in Photoshop based on how bright or dark an area is. Let’s say you were looking at a beautiful nighttime cityscape shot. Everything is exposed correctly apart from the street lights, which are completely blown out. You also have a darker exposure in which the street lights are ideally exposed.

Through luminosity masks you can make an accurate selection of the street lights because you can hone in on their brightness, or luminosity values. With this selection you can simply replace the overexposed streets lights with the correctly exposed ones in the darker image.

What You Need to do Luminosity Masking

Firstly, creating your own luminosity masks is a complex and cumbersome process. However, I have a free Photoshop Luminosity Mask Action Set that will do all of the work for you. You can download it here: Free Luminosity Mask Action Set.

Secondly, it is imperative that you have a good understanding of Masking in Photoshop. If you’re a little bit unsure of the process, you can visit Adobe’s site which has a useful video tutorial for you to follow: Masking in Photoshop.

Which exposures to blend?

Ideally, the exposures you choose to blend should cover the full range of light in a given scene. Your brightest exposure should contain information in the darker areas, while your darkest exposure should contain information in the brightest areas. You are not limited to the number of exposures you can blend. Sometimes, in scenes of extremely high contrast, you may need to use as many as five to ensure a smooth transition between exposures and to cover the full range of light in the scene.

The order you choose to layer the exposures in Photoshop is dependent on your personal preference and the exposures you’re working with. Usually working with your normally exposed image as the base layer will derive the best results, but sometimes you may need to work with a darker or brighter exposure as your base layer.

Once you’ve decided on your exposures and have layered them in Photoshop, you now must decide which exposure you will run the actions on. Generally this will be done on your normally exposed image because it will offer the widest range of usable masks. For example, if you ran the luminosity mask actions on a darker exposure, you would gain a full range of dark and mid-tone luminosity masks, but very few, if any, workable bright masks, because the darker exposure is lacking in highlights. The converse is true for a strongly overexposed image.

Blending Exposures Using Luminosity Masks Tutorial

Today you’ll work with two exposures. One is ideally exposed for the sky and sea (download the underexposed image here), while the other is exposed for the foreground elements (download the overexposed image here).

Original files

You want to combine the sky and the sea in the underexposed image with much of the foreground in the overexposed image. To do this, you need to find a way of selecting the sky and the sea (i.e., the blown out areas) in the overexposed shot. Once you’ve done that you just need to replace it with the sky and sea of the darker exposure.

Steps in Photoshop For Blending Exposures

1. Install the Photoshop Action set

Instructions on how to install actions can be found here: Get Creative With Photoshop Actions

2. Import your two images into Photoshop

Bring both images into Photoshop as layers, placing the underexposed image on top. Align the images by selecting both of them on the layers panel, and going to Edit > Auto-Align Layers.

3. Turn off the top layer

Uncheck the eye on the layers panel next to the underexposed layer. This will make it invisible and ensure that the luminosity mask actions will run on the overexposed layer only.

4. Run the Masking Action

Go to your Actions panel, which looks like a Play button on the toolbar. Open it up and go to the set called JM Luminance Masks. Click on the arrow to the left of that. You will now see an option called Generate Luminance Masks. Select it and press the Play button at the bottom of the Actions panel to begin the process.

Luminosity mask actions

5. Add a Layer Mask to the Dark Underexposed Layer

Now, check the eye next to the underexposed layer, so that it is visible again. Make sure that layer is selected, then go down to the bottom of the Layers panel and, while holding Alt (Option on a Mac), left click the Add a Mask icon. This will create a black layer mask on the underexposed layer, making it invisible again.

6. View Luminosity Masks

To see the Luminosity Masks that you’ve generated, go to your Channels palette, next to the Layers panel (if it is not showing go to: Window > Channels and it will appear). You’ll see 18 monochromatic channels, ranging from Brights 1-6, Darks 1-6, Midtones 1-6. Every one of these channels is a potential mask.

Luminosity mask channels

7. Comparing and Selecting a Luminosity Mask

For this set of images, you only need to use one mask in order to blend the sky from the darker exposure into the overexposed image. In this instance, you’ll need to select Brights 3.

Comparing Masks

Just as with normal masking, the brighter the pixel the stronger the selection. In other words, in the image above, if you used Brights 3 you are selecting much of the sky and sea, but none of the foreground which is completely black. Conversely, if you selected Darks 3, for example, you would only be making a selection of the foreground sand and the poles that lead out to sea.

When choosing the appropriate mask, you are looking to isolate different areas. Therefore, it’s important that the mask you choose has the greatest contrast between the areas you wish to select and the areas you wish to ignore.

For example, if you were working on an image of a nice green field on sunny day, but the sky was blown out and you wished to exchange it with the sky from a darker exposure. You would run the luminosity mask actions and choose the mask where the field was black and the sky was white. This would ensure you would only select the sky and not the field in the foreground.

To turn Brights 3 into an actual selection, you just need to hold Control (Command on a Mac) and click the left mouse button on the thumbnail of the Brights 3 channel. Marching ants will appear to indicate your selection. Press “Control + H” to hide the marching ants.

8. Get Ready to Paint on the Mask

Now switch back to your Layers panel and select the underexposed layer. Make sure you select the mask, and not the actual layer itself.

9. Set up the Paint Brush Tool

Choose the Paint Brush tool on the toolbar and make sure the foreground colour is set to white. Choose the correct brush size. This will depend entirely on the area you’re working with in a given image, but usually, a larger brush is better. A brush size of 2,000 pixels was used here. Set the opacity depending on the strength of the masking you wish to use. For example, with this image, you will mask the sky with an opacity of 100%, but the overexposed areas in the water and foreground will only be masked at 40% opacity. This is because you don’t want to darken the sea too much.

10. Painting or Applying the Mask

Now you’re ready to begin masking. Freely move your paint brush around the areas you wish to affect. Since you are masking with a luminosity mask selection you don’t have to worry about going over the edges. Try varying opacities in different places. Even if your brush opacity is set to 100%, you can still run your brush through certain areas a few times to strengthen the effect.

By holding Alt (Option on a Mac) and clicking on the layer mask you’re working on, you can see exactly what the mask now looks like. The image below is the final layer mask after you’ve finished painting. Remember that white equals visible and black equals invisible. So the sky in this layer is completely visible, the sea is grey so it is partially visible. Since the foreground is black, which means invisible, you will be left with a foreground that is 100% from the overexposed layer below.

Final Mask

After a small contrast adjustment and a selective vignette added, here’s the final image along side the original overexposed image you were working with.

Final images

You now have a nicely balanced image with a good range of dynamic light and tones.

Deleting the Luminosity Masks

While working in Photoshop, the more layers you work on, the larger the demand on Photoshop and your system. Large workflows can seriously slow down your operating system. To ease the load, you should delete the luminosity masks once you’ve finished working with them.

To do this, go back into your Channels palette and select Brights 1. Then hold down Shift and press your left mouse button on Brights 2 to select this too. Do the same with each luminosity mask below. Once all are selected, click your right mouse button on any of the selected masks and choose the Delete Channels option. This will remove the selected channels.

Summary

At first, luminosity masks seem complex and sometimes daunting, but in truth, this whole workflow took less than 5 minutes. After a little bit of practice you begin to get an intuitive sense of how to use these powerful tools, and once you do, you gain extensive control over your images that can change your photography forever.

Have you tried this method of blending images, if so share your thoughts or images in the comments below. Or do you prefer the HDR tone-mapping process? Do you think HDR is dead or maybe it should be? Or perhaps you are somewhere in the middle in the 10 steps every HDR photographer goes through? What are your thoughts?

Check out the newest dPS ebook – Loving Landscapes A guide to landscape photography workflow and post-production – a brand new dPS ebook by the authors of Living Landscapes

Read more from our Post Production category

Jimmy McIntyre is travel photographer currently undertaking a 2-year project is Asia, writing two photography guidebooks for China and South Korea. He has taught digital blending workshops on 3 continents, and also offers online training. You can download his free Easy Panel for Photoshop, which will create Luminosity Masks for you at the click of a button. If you'd like to take your Luminosity Mask mastery to a new level, check out his comprehensive Luminosity Mask video course.

  • Hi there,
    Luminosity masks are unaffected by the update so they still work perfectly 🙂

    Have a nice day

  • trasa

    I need to know if this is better than Photomatrix! 🙂
    ??? ????????????? ?????????? ???? ????

  • GergoK

    hi Jimmy, quick question! I might be doing something wrong because when I make the selection and use the brush for masking, it doesn’t only take effect in the selected area but spills over a bit. It’s best visible when I leave the marching ants on and paint along the edge of the selection. Why is that?

  • Michael Owens

    Jimmy, do you have a specific playlist on your YouTube channel for this whole setup?

    @jimmymac20:disqus

  • Hi there, this happens because there isn’t enough contrast between the areas you wish to blend and the area you don’t wish to affect. If they’re similar in brightness, the mask will select both of the areas.

  • Joseph

    Hi may I ask. How do I blend if there are a lot of trees and they’re all swaying in all my bracketed shots?

  • David

    Hi Jimmy,

    I stumbled upon this article by clicking on a link from another one of your articles here (https://iso.500px.com/post-processing-tips-for-landscape-photos/). I wanted to take one of my photos like the one in this link and apply what you called “luminosity mask exposure blending, contrast adjustment, and lighting adjustments”, but there seems to be one major difference between these two articles: the one in the link only has one image to work with while this article deals with two exposures. As a results, it’s not obvious (to me anyway) how I can apply luminosity masks with one exposure. Could you please explain or link me to another tutorial that explains this? Thanks!

  • Rod Field

    I just watched your youtube video and just purchased your master course material; Awesome work Jimmy, I just hope I don’t get lost in confusion!

  • This is actually several step tutorial since to do this one you need to know some other — how to create lumosity masks and how to do masking in Photoshop. Learn masking first. Then learn how to create a lumosity mask, then come back and use this tutorial. Put this under the super advanced and difficult tab.

  • Kenneth Carpenter

    Hi Jimmy. I’m having similar problems that GergoK had. After creating the mask and use the brush, it turns black when painting outside of the mask. Everything within the mask does fine. The first time I did the tutorial it worked fine. I’ve had this problem every time since. What am I doing wrong?

  • Brad

    Just learned about this today – Photomatix always gave me nice results, but no matter what I did to tone it down, it still looked “fake”. Beautiful, but fake. This looks a lot more natural. Thank you!

  • Excellent, I tried it in my work and got wonderful result. Thanks @jimmymac20:disqus

  • Dan McLean

    Nice article and easy to follow along, thanks.

  • cindip1

    I would like to know how to use the luminosity masks with one exposure too.

  • I just tried In Photoshop CS4 Dutch edition, but get lots of errors like ‘Object Channel Alpha 1 currently is not available’

  • Chase Castor

    When I apply the action it goes through the action list with errors “The command “___” is not currently available

  • Anoniempje_123

    You probably have your BIT settings to high …

    It should work on 16 bit… I think it dont work on 32 bit

  • Anoniempje_123

    LOL @ NEIL

    To be honest… Jimmy’s entire article could be called COPYRIGHT INFRINGEMENT … Tony is the person who made this technique…

    Tony is a nice guy for just advertising and not suing him 😉

  • Lance

    Got this to work, but my window exposure looks like a negative. It’s reversed.

  • Stephen Bell

    I haven’t a clue what to do with all of this! I downloaded the free panel, now I can generate a large number of masks, but all I can do is turn my image pink.

  • Ifan Griffiths

    I tried this but the masking doesn’t seem to work as when I Paint over it doesn’t stay within the masking. Am I missing something?

Join Our Email Newsletter

Thanks for subscribing!


DPS offers a free weekly newsletter with: 
1. new photography tutorials and tips
2. latest photography assignments
3. photo competitions and prizes

Enter your email below to subscribe.
Email:
 
 
Get DAILY free tips, news and reviews via our RSS feed