Should you buy a DSLR or Point and Shoot Digital Camera?

Dslr-Point-And-Shoot

“I’m using a compact point and shoot digital camera and i would like to ask it is worth it to upgrade to a DSLR camera? How huge a difference do DSLR cameras make compared to compact point and shoot digital camera?”

Thanks for the question - I’ll attempt to keep my answer brief and not too technical. This is a question that I’m regularly asked, increasingly so as the price of DSLRs have dropped and become much more in the reach of the average digital photographer’s budget.

Let me declare up front that I own both a Point and Shoot digital camera (a Fujifilm FinePix F30) and a DSLR (a Canon EOS 5D). I like having both because I do feel they compliment each other and are each suited for different situations. My preference in terms of quality of shots is with the DSLR but for convenience the point and shoot sometimes wins out.

I also want to say up front that the digital camera industry is constantly evolving and changing. The lines between DSLRs and point and shoots are blurring (or at least this seems to be the intention of manufacturers). What I write below unfortunately will have elements of generalizations in it as I classify hundreds of cameras (each with their own distinctive features) into two camps.


Are Megapixels Everything?

Before I get into the Pros and Cons of DSLRs vs Point and Shoot digital cameras I want to address a common misconception that I regularly hear among digital camera owners - that a cameras megapixel rating is the main thing to consider when determining a camera’s quality.

The fact is that megapixels are NOT everything. Despite point and shoot cameras now coming with up to 10 megapixels (Casio released one last month) their quality level is not necessarily has good as a DSLR with only 8 or so.

The main reason for this (and there are many as we’ll see below) is that the image sensor used in point and shoot digital cameras is generally much smaller than the image sensor used in a DSLR (the difference is often as much as 25 times). This means that the pixels on a point and shoot camera have to be much smaller and (without getting too technical) collect fewer photons (ok I lied about the technicalities). The long and short of it is that because of this point and shoot cameras need to work at slower ISO levels which means that they produce ‘noisier’ (or more grainy) shots.

A lot more could be said on sensor size - but trust me, smaller sensors significantly reduce the quality of an image. I’d much rather have a camera with less megapixels and a larger image sensor than the other way around.

This is one factor that needs to be considered when choosing between a DSLR and point and shoot - but let me run through some more:

DSLRs

DSLRA quick definition - unfortunately some camera manufacturers in recent months have released cameras with the DSLR label that technically are not. For the purposes of this article I’ll define DSLR’s as cameras that have removable lenses, that have a reflex mirror which allows live optical viewing through the lens taking the image. ie DSLR’s use a mirror that allows you to see the image you’re about to shoot through the view finder - when you take the shot the mirror flips up allowing the image sensor to capture the image.

Some cameras these days are being touted as DSLRs because you have ‘through lens viewing’ but they are not true DSLR’s - (Digital, Single, Lens, Reflex). This does not necessarily make them a bad camera - but in my opinion it there is a distinction between them.

DSLR Strengths

  • Image Quality - I’ve already covered this above in my discussion on megapixels and image sensors - but due to the larger size of image sensors in DSLRs which allows for larger pixel sizes - DSLRs are generally able to be used at a faster ISO which will lead to faster shutter speeds and less grain.
  • Adaptability - DSLR’s ability to change lenses opens up a world of possibilities for photographers. While my point and shoot has a nice little 3x Optical Zoom (and many these days have longer ones) my DSLR can be fitted with many high quality lenses ranging from wide angle to super long focal lengths depending upon what I’m photographing (and of course my budget). Add to this a large range of other accessories (flashes, filters etc) and a DSLR can be adapted to many different situations. It should be noted that when it comes to lenses that the diversity in quality of lenses is great. Image quality is impacted greatly by the quality of the lens you use.
  • Speed - DSLR’s are generally pretty fast pieces of machinery when it comes to things like start up, focussing and shutter lag.
  • Optical Viewfinder - due to the reflex mirror DSLR’s are very much a what you see is what you get operation.
  • large ISO range - this varies between cameras but generally DSLRs offer a wide array of ISO settings which lends itself to their flexibility in shooting in different conditions.
  • Manual Controls - while many point and shoots come with the ability to shoot in manual mode, a DSLR is designed in such a way that it is assumed that the photographer using it will want to control their own settings. While they do come with good auto modes the manual controls are generally built in in such a way that they are at the photographers finger tips as they are shooting.
  • Hold it’s value - some argue that a DSLR will hold it’s value longer than a point and shoot. There is probably some truth in this. DSLR models do not get updated quite as often as point and shoot models (which can be updated twice a year at times). The other factor in favor of DSLRs is that the lenses you buy for them are compatible with other camera bodies if you do choose to upgrade later on (as long as you stay with your brand). This means your investment in lenses is not a waste over the years.
  • Depth of Field - one of the things I love about my DSLR is the versatility that it gives me in many areas, especially depth of field. I guess this is really an extension of it’s manual controls and ability to use a variety of lenses but a DSLR can give you depth of field that puts everything from forground to background in focus through to nice blurry backgrounds.
  • Quality Optics - I hesitate to add this point as there is a large degree of difference in quality between DSLR lenses (and point and shoot cameras are always improving) but in general the lenses that you’ll find on a DSLR are superior to a point and shoot camera. DSLR lenses are larger (more glass can add to the quality) and many of them have many hours of time put into their manufacture (especially when you get into higher end lenses). I strongly advise DSLR buyers to buy the best quality lenses that they can afford. It it’s the difference between a high end lens on a medium range camera or a medium range lens on a high end camera I’d go for quality lenses every time as they add so much to photos.

DSLR Weaknesses

  • Price - while they are coming down in price (especially at the lower end) DSLR’s are generally more expensive than point and shoot digital cameras. Also consider that you might want to upgrade your lens (as kit lenses are generally not of a super high quality) or you may wish to add more lenses later and that this adds to the cost of a DSLR.
  • Size and Weight - the only reason I take my point and shoot out with me is on those occasions when I don’t want to lug my DSLR (and it’s lenses) around with me. DSLRs are heavy and sizable and when you add a lens or two to your kit bag you can end up with quite the load!
  • Maintenance - a factor well worth considering if you’re going to use a DSLR with more than one lens is that every time you change lenses you run the risk of letting dust into your camera. Dust on an image sensor is a real annoyance as it will leave your images looking blotchy. Cleaning your image sensor is not a job for the faint hearted and most recommend that you get it done professionally (which of course costs). This is a problem that is being rectified in many new DSLRs which are being released with self cleaning sensors.
  • Noise - DSLRs are generally more noisy to use than point and shoots. This will vary depending upon the lens you use but while point and shoots can be almost silent when taking a shot a DSLR will generally have a ‘clunk’ as the mechanisms inside it do their thing. I personally quite like this sound - but it’s something that is a factor for some.
  • Complexity - while DSLRs are designed for manual use this of course means you need to know how to use the tools that they give you. Some friends that have bought DSLRs in the past few months have told me that they were a little overwhelmed at first by the array of settings and features. The learning curve can be quite steep. Having said this - all DSLRs have fully Automatic mode and many have the normal array of semi-auto modes that point and shoot digital cameras have.
  • No live LCD - in many DSLRs the only way to frame your shot is via the optical viewfinder. Some photographers prefer to use a camera’s LCD for this task. This is another thing that is changing with more and more new DSLRs having a ‘Live View’ LCD which enables you to frame your shots without looking through the view finder (update: please note that Live View isn’t perfect - check out the comments of NormMonkey below who shares more.

So what DSLR do I recommend?

Let me point you to a recent post here at DPS listing the Top 20 DSLRs as owned by our community members. I am a Canon fan myself but the Nikon DSLRs on the list get great reviews as do the others. Also check out the new Canon EOS 40D that’s just been announced (available now for preorder at Amazon).

Point and Shoots

Point-And-ShootWhile some people write off all non DSLR’s as inferior I think they’ve got a lot going for them and would highly recommend them depending upon the level of photography that you engage in, your budget, the things that you’ll want to do with your photos and the subject matter that you will be shooting. You’ll also notice below that I note that the Point and Shoot market options available are improving. Some of the weaknesses I note are being improved by manufacturers lately on some of their models. Here’s some Pros and Cons of point and shoot digital cameras.:

Point and Shoot Digital Camera Strengths

  • Size and Weight - to be able to slip a camera in a pocket as you dash out the door to a party is a wonderful thing. These days point and shoot cameras can be slim and light - to the point of not even knowing you’ve got them with you. This is great for parties, travel and all manner of situations. Of course some point and shoots can be quite bulky too (especially some of the super zoom models on the market).
  • Quiet Operation - this was the thing I noticed about my new point and shoot the most. Not only didn’t my subjects not notice I’d taken shots of them at times, once or twice it was so quiet that even I didn’t notice I’d taken a shot.
  • Auto Mode - the quality of images produced in point and shoots varies greatly, but in general they shoot quite well in auto mode. I guess manufacturers presume that this style of camera will be used in auto mode (or one of the other preset modes) mostly and as a result they generally come pretty well optimized for this type of shooting (as do many DSLRs these days).
  • Price - in general point and shoot digital cameras are cheaper. Of course you can go to the top of the range and spend as much as you would on a cheaper DSLR, but most are in a much more affordable price bracket.
  • LCD Framing - as I mentioned above, many digital camera users prefer to frame their shots using LCDs. Point and Shoots always come with this ability and some even come with ‘flip out’ screens that enable their users to take shots from different angles and still see what they’re shooting.

Point and Shoot Digital Camera Weaknesses

  • Image Quality - point and shoots generally have small image sensors which means that the quality that they produce is generally lower. This is slowly changing in some point and shoots but in comparison to DSLRs they still have a way to go. It’s worth saying however - that if you’re not planning on using your images for major enlargements or in professional applications that the quality of point and shoot cameras can be more than enough for the average user. Manufacturers are making improvements all the time in their technology and even in the last year or two I’ve noticed significant image quality improvements.
  • Smaller ISO range - once again this is changing slowly (my point and shoot has the ability to shoot to 1600 ISO) but in general ISO ranges are more limited in point and shoot cameras - this limits them in different shooting conditions.
  • Speed - point and shoot digital cameras were always notorious for their slowness, particularly their ’shutter lag’ (the time between pressing the shutter and when the image is taken. This is constantly being improved but the instantaneous feel of many DSLRs is still not there with point and shoots when it comes to shutter lag, start up and even focusing time.
  • Reliance upon LCD - most point and shoot digital camera rely almost completely upon their LCD for framing. While some enjoy this others like to use a viewfinder. Most point and shoot cameras have view finders but they are generally so small that they are almost useless. Some models don’t have viewfinders at all (increasingly a trend).
  • Manual Controls Limited - many point and shoot cameras do have the ability to play with a full array of manual settings and controls (or at least make it difficult to do so). They often come with ‘aperture priority’ and ’shutter priority’ modes which are great - but quite often the manual controls are hidden in menu systems and are not as accessible as on a DSLR (if they are there at all).
  • Less Adaptable - while they are highly portable point and shoot cameras are generally not very adaptable. What you buy when you first get them is what you are stuck with using for years. Some do have lens adapters to give you wider angles or longer zooms but generally most people don’t go for these accessories.

Which Point and Shoot digital cameras do I recommend?

Once again let me point you to the Top 10 Point and Shoot Digital Cameras as used by the DPS community. There are some fantastic cameras in the list including the Canon PowerShot Pro Series S3 IS.

Should You Buy a DSLR or a Point and Shoot Digital Camera?

This is ultimately a question that you need to answer for yourself. My answer is to have both (I’m fortunate to be able to do so) but if I had to choose between one or the other I’d get a DSLR based upon my experience level, the type of photos I take, my desire to use manual settings and the quality of image that I’m after.

If your situation is different to mine however and you want a portable camera that takes good pictures that you’ll mainly use for small prints and emailing that you’ll mainly shoot in auto mode - you’ll probably be quite happy with a cheaper point and shoot.

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37 Responses to “Should you buy a DSLR or Point and Shoot Digital Camera?”

  • Glen Says:

    Not actually answering the question, I would suggest a camera that occupies the middle ground between P&S and DSLR. I’m very pleased with our Canon S3IS and Lumix DMC_FZ7. Not the superior quality of a DSLR but both have manual controls that a P&S usually lacks.

  • EL Says:

    One big disadvantage of point and shoots which should be mentioned is that they tend to have large depth of field at every f/stop. The article mentions depth of field flexibility in terms of lenses and settings for a DSLR, but the issue is really more a function of the camera formats.

    Even shooting wide open (at the lowest f/stop) it can be quite hard to get the nice blurred background with the very small sensor of a point and shoot (I have seen it said that at normal focal length, the depth of field of a point and shoot at f/2.8 is about the same as a DSLR at f/13). This can be great for things like macro photography, but makes it quite difficult with many point and shoots to get nice blurred backgrounds.

    I learned this the hard way when I bought a long-zoom point and shoot a couple of years back — the biggest frustration I had was the enormous and inflexible depth of field.

    EL

  • Shawn DeArmond Says:

    Another drawback of P&S cameras is that they tend not to save RAW file formats. I could be wrong, but I seem to remember that many of them did do RAW several years ago. Now, I think the only Canon P&S camera that supports RAW is thier G9, and that was re-added since the G8 didn’t have it. Don’t know if they’re still making the S70, but that one has RAW too. Personally, I would love to buy the SD870 IS, but without RAW, I don’t think I’m gonna.

    A friend just referred me to your site, by the way; good work!

    Shawn

  • shimonkey Says:

    When people ask me this, I usually ask if they like to use all the settings on their point and shoot. If they are the sort of person that tends to be happy with auto & “night”, they’re probably not going to enjoy the myriad settings on a DSLR, and the quality improvement of pictures is going to be minimal i.e. not worth the cost and size.

    I say this having shot with a point and shoot for two years before my DSLR, and I tried about every single setting and trick I could with that little camera before I decided I’d hit the limits of what it could do technically.

    I do agree with EL about depth of field. It is the first thing one notices about using an SLR compared to a point and shoot and it’s a beautiful thing.

  • Cedric Says:

    Well, personally I find quite convenient to have one of each as you cannot always carry your DSLR with you.

    I’m quite happy with Ricoh Caplio R6 but new shock and water proof Olympus SW 790/795 might be the perfect companion of a DSLR too as it they get access where DSLR’s can hardly go.

    Regrettably RAW format is only available on the Panasonic LX-2 / Leica D-Lux 3.

  • Dennis Says:

    Most people will “upgrade” from point and shoot to DSLR. so in that case, they too have best of both worlds

  • Loyd Says:

    I agree with Cedric. Best to have both.. I find my canon digital elph stuck in my pocket going everywhere with me, while my DSLR gets left behind for many events either from fear of theft or damage..

  • ROB Says:

    Another great article and observant responses too.

    I say both as Cedric noted! The dSLR for the creativity, flexibility, high shutter rate, etc, etc and the P+S for the small size, have it with me all the time convinience.

    Also as Shawn said, I would love RAW in my P+S. Most though have antiquated implimentations which renders it too slow to be usable.

  • Christel Says:

    May I say that the DSLR’s are not noisier than compact camera’s?
    Because of the small sensor in a compact cam, the pixels stand very close to each other and create so more noise.
    And the DSLR’s do have most of the time a better noise reduction. Look at a picture made with an 350D at ISO 1600, and a picture with an compact cam at ISO 1600.
    In my opinion is the compact cam more noisy than you ever want.
    Or am I wrong?

  • Prashant Says:

    Since I use my photos only for collection purpose, and for sending them via email, I find P&S camera very good. I have got a Canon Powershot SD1000, and it is much much better than what I had expected. :-)

  • Heather Kay Says:

    Christel, the noise referred to was mechanical, not image. By their very nature a DSLR has a lot of mechanics to operate the mirror and shutter, and make a satisfying, if noisy, shutter clunk.

    P&S cameras can be almost silent, even if the manufacturer has added a “fake” shutter sound for psychological reasons.

    :o)

  • char* Says:

    I have a Nikon D50 and I am looking into purchasing a P&S camera as well. I don’t carry my DSLR with me for the reason of I have so much additional equipment (Lensbabies, extra lenses, batteries, filters, etc…) and I don’t like half done shots. Needless to say I can’t just whip it out like you can with a P&S so for those “moments” you just want to catch right then and there I think a P&S is a smart addition. I think it is very beneficial to have one of each and each one have strengths and weakness that can compliment each other.

  • NormMonkey Says:

    A quick note about Live View on dSLRs: this feature is not designed to work the same way it does on P&S cameras. Users planning to jump from P&S to a dSLR with LV, who plan to use it to frame their shots the same way they do with their P&S, will be sorely disappointed.

    The Live View in a dSLR helps the photog deal with situations like ground-level or above-head shooting, when you can’t see through the viewfinder. You pay a price, though: there’s a shutter lag when using LV (the mirror snaps down and then back up), and the LV can’t focus well. As well, the displayed histogram on the LV may be off from the actual shot, especially for edge cases (long exposures, IR photography).

    Technical details: dSLRs have their AE and AF sensors behind the mirror. While the mirror is up out of the way for Live View, the camera can’t focus nor can it get exposure info (beyond adjusting the sensor’s sensitivity). When the user wants to take a shot, the mirror snaps back down so the AE and AF sensors can do their thing. As well, the shutter must close and the sensor must be cleared and reset. Then the mirror snaps back up and the exposure proceeds as normal.

    More technical details: In a P&S camera, the AE and AF can be done using data right from the sensor. The much larger sensors (smaller DoF) and finer optics in a dSLR require using the traditional AF methods.

  • NormMonkey Says:

    I’ve thought off-and-on about getting a P&S for the pocket-size convenience for a long time.

    I keep deciding not to. I figure
    (a) if an image is worth taking, it’s worth taking with the best equipment;
    (b) why buy an expensive camera and leave it on the shelf?
    (c) I can take just my camera and one attached lens in a smaller pouch to specific events, if I want less weight (not quite the same as P&S, but less weight than my full kit);
    (d) I could the P&S money towards some quality optics.

    It’s true there’s no dSLR substitute for having a tiny camera in-pocket, available at all times. I’d just rather get in the habit of bringing my good camera with me everywhere, instead.

  • Ken Laninga Says:

    I bought a $1900. DSLR but took it back and got a SILENT camera; the shutter sound scared away the big game I was shooting.

  • Carl Says:

    Here’s another subtle point: P&S cameras are usually designed to produce “snappier” pictures right off the bat, while dSLRs are usually calibrated for a more neutral output. Those moving from a P&S to a dSLR will see this and wonder why the dSLR picture doesn’t always look any better. I have both types of cameras and I find I must frequently sharpen and enhance my dSLR pictures to give them a bit more zip.

  • Darren Says:

    Thanks Norm Monkey - great commments on Live View!

  • Matthew Miller Says:

    Er, what cameras are being marketed as dSLRs when they’re not? If you mean the new “live view” feature on some models, note that they *all* also can operate in normal mirror-to-viewfinder mode.

  • Lizzy Says:

    I have a higher end P&S Sony R1 and I love it for what I shoot. Altho it looks like a dslr and has the RAW capability, manual settings, scene modes etc…for me it works the best because of shooting in so much dust. My biggest fear of moving into a dslr is dust along with the expense of various lenses. I may not have a choice as there are few cameras coming out that will fill the footprints of the R1. The combination of limited budgets, small end user groups, desired results, ease of operation, and total expense, make for a niche market that few cameras manufactures care to fill.

  • Matthew Miller Says:

    Lizzy — Pentax K10D (and presumably its successors) will give you a dust-sealed dSLR at a relatively affordable price. Probably better-sealed than the Sony R1, actually.

  • William Says:

    I got similar questions from my friends many times. My standard reply to them is “what do you want to get from the digital photos”

    It looks nice to carry a DSLR with big lens running around but it is heavier and most likely more expensive. It requires some level of technical skill and most important - the work after taking the photo.

    I usually recommend the beginner to have a simple pocket size point and shoot camera first. The new P&S camera product reasonable quality pictures. I always stress that photography is largely depends on the mood, the time you take the photo. The more you do, the better picture you can make. Carry a big camera may hinter the creativity for ordinary people

  • Bo_ Says:

    I have a Canon Ixus 40 (elph in the US) and a Canon powershot s3is. The Ixus fits in my shirt pocket - and therefore I can use it everywhere. The s3is was my “upgrade” to a real camera - and I love it - I use all the manual settings - but I have to admit that the DOF and the noise are problematic. To ensure a decent picture - I need an ISO of less that 200 (I normally only use 100 or 80) or else… And I can only get a narrow DOF with macro - or when I use max zoom. And it has a 12x zoom - so to take a good portrait I need a great distance…

    I sometimes wonder why no one builds a “non-DSLR” with a large sensor - exchangeable lenses? The mirror with its mechanic parts we don’t need and therefore it will be cheaper than a real dSLR - and I will be able to afford it ;-) Okay there’s probably some technical reason why..

  • Christel Says:

    Heather Kay: Thanks for the explanation.

  • Terry Says:

    I have both. The reasons I have the DSLR are all mentioned above. The P&S, mostly covered. The other reasons are:
    1) Theft. P&S in my pocket is way less obvious and less appealing of a target than my Lumix. Especially relevant for travelers.
    2) Video. No, it’s not professional quality, but if a picture is worth a thousand words, a video could be worth a thousand images. Scenario: The palm trees swaying in a hurricane.
    3) Underwater. DSLR underwater cases are like 1000 USD. I got a bag for my Lumix for 15 USD. Again, not pro, but fun at the pool or snorkeling.
    4) Sturdiness. Just like beetles survive greater falls than people, small cameras survive greater falls than big’uns. (with exceptions).

    My Panasonic Lumix (DMC-FX9) is ALWAYS with me. Leica optics guarantee quality images, and the size is just right. It also does great macro without requiring another 300 USD lens. ;)

  • elmer Says:

    in my case, i would prefer having both. but since i dont have the budget, i only have a point and shoot.

  • Ken Says:

    As these type of questions are asked for new photography enthusiast, as like my self, I certainly suggest to start with P&S. I just bought a Canon IXUS70 and am happy with it. To a certain extend I can learn to use different ‘manual’ setting thats available with the camera. Since I am stil learning how to get good pictures, I have not concentrate on detail tecnicalities. Until I feel I am able to get good decent pictures with my P&S I wll then later consider looking at DSLR.

  • John Says:

    My Canon 300D has been stolen. Together with all three lenses. That camera just was fantastic. However, I couldn’t spent all theta money again to instanstly buy another DSLR.

    I decided to give a P&S camera a shot and got the Canon IXUS 60. I am really positively surprised. And I love the video feature, which I never could do with the DSLR before. Of course another DSLR is still on my shopping list. But I do not want to miss my IXUS anymore.

    Yes, both systems complement each other

  • Spoteria Says:

    Recently I was searching for a point and shoot camera and I decided on the Fujifilm F31fd. The camera provides manual functions such as the aperture or shutter priority. The night shots was fantastic!

    I feel DSLR is a good investment only if you are thinking of becoming a serious photographer. For the start I will go for a good digital point and shoot camera. If my photography develops into next level of interest and I do not mind carrying a DSLR when I travel, I guess I really do not mind getting a DSLR.

  • Paxson Says:

    Like most people who post messages in places like this, I suffer from sporadic bouts of gearhead-ism. It’s easy to forget that taking great photos is (give or take) 80% setting up a great shot, 15% knowing how to use your camera, 4% the camera itself, and the last 1% is just plain stupid luck.

    Case in point: I won a Backpacker Magazine photo contest a couple years back. Aperture? Film speed? No idea. The photo worked because the sunset over the Alaskan ocean cast the icebergs in surreal shades of orange and pink. The camera was a 2mp Canon A40. 2mp, right.

    Get out there and take some pictures.

  • BeReal Says:

    I think the decision would primarily depend upon the user’s interest. a casual photographer doesnt need a DSLR. and if a newbie is interested then i think he must initially start with a gud PnS cam like the S3 IS, etc. Once you know how to work on some manual functions and the technicalities, then move onto the DSLRs.

  • Photothusiast Says:

    I bought the Canon s3, and I’ve yet to be disappointed with the quality of the pictures. It got the best reviews of a point and shoot camera within a price range even 200-300$ more then it costs. I strongly recommend this camera to anyone who wants an advanced point and shoot with the ability to take great “off the cuff” auto mode photos as well as a great deal of control over settings in manual mode.

  • Peter Says:

    I am off to buy the casio ex-v8sr for the sole purpose of macro photography in the operating room. I have a DSLR but used my sony cyber shot with 10x lens for years with great success until it died and then my nikon S10 also with great success until it was stolen. I have tried all P&S, including leica etc and found the focusing capability of the casio the best to get into a small space of 1″ wide and 1″ deep with perfect focus the best…multiple AF modes. Not sure though technically advantage of 3x versus 7x lens helping me with macro but I have found that works even though I believe it helps zoom principally. I have found that I can get a sharper image with a smaller size file with the better lens.

    Hope this helps.

  • Asim Says:

    I completely agree with Carl.

    As on today one may really wonder if it is really worth the effort for a hobbyist (PS) to getting toward Pro-hobbyist(cheap DLSR). The advancement in normal ps and bridge cameras are really fast paced. It may really not be as pleasant an experience initally considering the effort. For layman better keep patience and persistence (chewing gum) as the learning curve is pretty steep from novice and amateur to pro-hobbyist to pro.

    Better anyone buy Bridge SLR like S5IS Canon or Kodak Z series with very good chromatics and optics.

    For Pro-hobbyists like me, the Pentax K100D (i like that) or Nikon D40, D50 is the choice to make.

    For Pros no limits..

  • Barnaby Says:

    I just bought the Olympus E-500 on clearance, and I have been playing with it for the last two days. I am very happy with the quality of the photos, and the auto-mode suits most of my purposes very well. Perhaps the only thing I regret about getting a dSLR is the lack of video mode, plus the size of the camera. I am travelling for a year in Canada, and I indend to spend weeks in the Rockys taking photos, but I also would like to spend ages partying with a smaller, more versatile camera with a video setting. Thus, the expenditure of another $250-400 seems justified, considering that it will be for a year.
    In short:
    dSLR pros- high image quality, manual zoom, manual f-stop, iso, shutter, etc, but still with very good Auto mode, can get very good lenses.
    dSLR cons- no video, bulky, expensive (lenses cost more)
    So on the whole, a dSLR’s pros far outweigh the cons unless you are desperate for video or pocket-shooting.

    On the other hand, I could just remember things!

  • Jake Says:

    I have both. I have the nikon d50 which is my primary camera because I am a person who loves to shoot in all manual (it gives me the feeling I truly own a picture and the camera was only a tool not a crutch). I also own a olympus stylus 720 SW. This was for my social life. Its shock, water, heat, and cold proof. Perfect for those spontaneous things that happens with friends.

    Now here comes the cons of each since u have already heard the pros

    Con’s Dslr- heavy and expensive. One thing that most people don’t take into consideration is looks. People give u very strange looks when u have a large lens like the sigma 10-24mm lense on it. (Personally I love it because they ask stupid questions like how many mega pixels that thing has. When that is a very ignorant question in many cases because Mega-pixels are nothing if there is no room to put them on a sensor.)

    Con’s P&S- bad image quality, far less control, no viewfinder is a big one for me, and no looks :p

    Unless you know how to control iso, Shutter speed, and Aperture stay with P&S. Because there is no point in buying a 500 guitar if you can’t play a cord.

    Then when you know how these elements affect a frame move up and and enjoy the fun of a DSLR

  • nandh Says:

    I would like to by a point-shoot camera.
    Pixels is 6 mp enough. So, i go for Canon S3IS, what u recommend as above.
    But i want to know about the lens.
    I am instrested in Potrait, Wildlife & Birds Photography (ZOO) actualy my expection is to cover more than 400-600mtrs.
    Even i dont know hot to calculate the between distance to lens.
    How to consider the lens for my photography.
    So, Please guide me to reach my aim.
    Thank,
    Nandha.

  • qalballah Says:

    THANKYOU for this post. So useful. Explained things in clear terms.

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