Your Guide to Understanding Program Mode on Your Camera


Almost every DSLR or Mirrorless camera has a mode dial with a variety of letters and icons on it, some of which might seem cryptic or confusing. Usually you’ll find a green icon for Full Auto mode (usually a green A or rectangle), Full Manual mode (M), as well as Aperture Priority (A or Av) and Shutter Priority (S or Tv). Your camera might also feature scene modes such as portrait, night, or macro, and even some user-configurable modes indicated with a U1 or U2 (or C1/C2, etc.)

Note: read more about the most common modes on your camera here.

Somewhere on that dial is a letter that’s often left neglected, and unused by many people, even though it can be quite powerful – Program Auto (P). In my experience most people don’t use it because they don’t understand it. Is it Auto? Is it Manual? What can it do that the other modes can’t? The answer is a bit strange at first, but once you wrap your head around what the humble little P mode can do, you might find yourself using it much more than you thought.


The camera mode dial operates on somewhat of a continuum. On one end you have Full Manual mode, which gives you complete control over the three elements of exposure: shutter speed, lens aperture, and ISO sensitivity. On the other end you have Full Auto mode which gives you almost no control over exposure except whether the flash turns on or not (and on some cameras, not even that much). On most cameras Full Auto will not even let you choose basic parameters like white balance and focus mode, which is fine if you just want to shoot some pictures and not worry about all the technical aspects of photography.

The other modes exist in the middle of the spectrum and give you some degree of control, while your camera handles the rest. For instance, in Aperture Priority you control the aperture and ISO, and let your camera figure out what shutter speed to use for a good overall exposure. In Shutter Priority things are reversed; you control the shutter speed and ISO, while your camera figures out what aperture to use.


Program mode exists on the same continuum somewhere between Aperture/Shutter Priority and Full Automatic. When you initially put your camera in P mode you might notice that things look similar to Full Auto; your camera sets the aperture and shutter speed in order to get a proper exposure. One benefit you might not immediately realize is that you can set the ISO which will then remain unchanged by the camera. This is quite useful in situations where you want to intentionally use a lower ISO, such as outdoors or in bright light, or a high ISO when things are a bit darker and you prefer to not activate the flash. If nothing else, think of the Program Auto mode as an ISO Priority mode; you set the ISO and your camera figures out the shutter speed and the aperture. If that’s all you want to do, you’re set. Change the ISO (or not) and worry only about composing and framing your shots, then let your camera figure out the rest.


Program Auto gave me a well-exposed picture but the result was not what I was hoping for. I wanted a smoother look for the fountain…


…so I quickly adjusted my shutter speed to 1/20 using the dial on my camera. Program mode kept a nice exposure while giving me the motion blur I was looking for.

If you’re willing to dig a little deeper you will find many more useful features to unlock in Program mode – far more than just giving you the ability to control the ISO. It’s kind of like the familiar Auto mode on steroids. There are many options available to you in Program that you won’t get in Full Auto, and many of these can help you get the shot you want, instead of the shot your camera thinks you want. However, as you start changing settings your camera will do its best to maintain a proper exposure. In this way Program is like the late-night infomercial version of Auto; it handles all the nitty-gritty complicated stuff for you…but wait, there’s more!

For example: if you are using Program mode while taking pictures at an indoor birthday party you can set a high ISO so you don’t need to use the flash, and your camera will choose a combination of aperture and shutter speed to get a properly-exposed photo. You can then rotate the command dial (on some cameras it might be pressing a button) to change these values if you decide you want a wider aperture or slower shutter. Essentially your camera says “Here’s what I think will be good,” and then you take over and say “Thanks bro, I’ll take it from here” as you shift the values of your shutter and aperture using the dial on your camera.

I shot this using Program Auto mode which was a great way to tweak my exposure settings on the fly with very little time to waste.

I shot this using Program Auto mode which was a great way to tweak my exposure settings on the fly with very little time to waste.

Or you might be outdoors doing some nature photography but aren’t quite sure what settings to use. So, you put your camera in Program and set the ISO to 100 in order to get as little noise as possible. Soon you might notice that your camera has selected a small aperture, and you’d like to get a bit of background blur so you quickly rotate the dial on your camera until your aperture is much wider. Your camera then automatically adjusts the shutter speed accordingly, in order to maintain a good exposure.

You can also set parameters within Program like white balance, metering mode (full/center/spot), select which focus point to use, and even tell your camera to use the flash or not. Contrast this to the Full Auto mode and you start to see the usefulness of the humble little P marker on your camera’s mode dial. At this point you might be wondering why you would want to use Program Auto instead of Aperture or Shutter Priority because those will also allow you to set the ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. Program Auto sort of functions like the best of all worlds: you can change various options if you want to, or you can just leave everything alone and let your camera figure it all out.


Shooting in Program mode gave me a good overall exposure but I was not happy with the results…


…so I switched to spot metering, re-took the shot, and got what I wanted. Program allows for this flexibility, whereas Full Auto does not.

I must admit that even though Program mode can be quite useful I spend most of my time in Shutter or Aperture Priority along with Manual. For me Program is great to have in a pinch, but I generally prefer to make more of the decisions when shooting, instead of having my camera do the heavy lifting.

Still, it’s good to be aware of what it is, and what it can do, in case you find yourself in a situation where you don’t want to give up all control to your camera but also don’t want to do everything yourself. What’s your preferred method of shooting, and what do you like (or dislike) about using the Program Auto mode? Leave your thoughts in the comment section below.

Read more from our Cameras & Equipment category

Simon Ringsmuth is an educational technology specialist at Oklahoma State University and enjoys sharing his enthusiasm for photography on his website and podcast at Weekly Fifty. He and his brother host a monthly podcast called Camera Dads where they discuss photography and fatherhood, and Simon also posts regularly to Instagram where you can follow him as @sringsmuth.

  • Roberto

    I’m just starting on a DSLR, but on my Canon point & shoot, manual is very restrictive, I cannot focus and then compose, I need to go to the Program mode. I think that is a nice mode.

  • Roberto

    When using a P&S, I always used the P mode, I didn’t understand all the things I could adjust, but the only one that I knew was that P let me set the focus point and if to use flash or not, and auto decided on what to use.

  • Maria R

    I never knew what P mode did until I read this explanation. Thanks! I will definitely try it out. Lately, I’m trying to wean myself off of auto-mode on my dslr by learning what all the functions do and mean. Dps helps a lot!

  • Glad to hear it was a helpful article, Maria!

  • Roland Delhomme

    I just learned a lot from both of you about that mode and love that it now makes a lot more sense than the way I’d explained it to myself!

  • Thank you Roland! I’m thrilled that you are learning more about photography from these articles 🙂

  • Ultravixen

    Thanks I like the easy explanation a lot. I have tried Program some times, without seeing any change or improvement, thus usually shoot in Aperture or full auto.

    Will try more P next time.

  • Ona

    Thanks I like the easy explanation a lot. I have tried Program some times, without seeing any change or improvement, thus usually shoot in Aperture or full auto.

    Will try more P next time.

  • Tony Paone

    As recent retiree, I want to do photography, but boy its hard! Is it because of old age? (LOL!) I like night sky and landascape. I bought myself a Canon eos 60D and I am struggling!

  • At0micandy

    I usually set speed or aperture depending on what I am taking, but P is a great fallback that I have used more than once. I love that it is there. I love the explanation of it here too. I don’t recall using full auto ( don’t have it on my current camera anyway, only A, T, M, P).

  • Finn-Bjørn Nymand

    You need to learn the basics: exposure, whitebalance metering and the different camera modes (the ones that matter). If you so desire, I can email you a piece that will teach you the basics. Other than that, it comes down to practice. I started shooting a year ago, and I am by no means a photographer. But I did take the time to learn the basics from day one, so I know my camera pretty well. And I suppose my skills are slowly improving.

  • Soren Jean

    hi everybody.

  • Soren Jean

    servers are fun

  • Soren Jean

    is anybody listening

  • Soren Jean


  • Dioka Ejionueme

    I haven’t tried it yet.
    Looking forward to.

    What’s an Ideal situation to try this out in?

  • Neville Baker

    When I grab my camera, it’s ready and always in P Mode. If I need to use one of it’s accessories ( Aperture priority or shutter priority or manual), then I do. But only when necessary. P Mode merely means “semi-automatic” (some settings are auto whilst others are manual). When in either AV or TV, the same applies – some things are auto whilst others are manual. More or less, what you set in any of the three, applies in the remaining two. This means that when in AV or TV, you’re still in P Mode. It’s all the same thing – semi-automatic. Plenty of options available all round.

  • Bob Dumon

    Unlike many “Pros” I shoot in S mode all the time for one simple reason. I do NOT like blurry photos, and keeping my shutter speed under my control, i.e., generally a minimum of 1/80 sec or 1 over the focal length of the lens setting I’m using, helps insure me of sharp images. JMHO…. Over the years I’ve been burned too many times by the “camera” selecting too slow a shutter speed. For me, sharp images are more important than depth of field variances (the main reason for using A mode)…. Also, unlike many pros, I HATE the fuzzy, “flowing” blurry look of many waterfall photos these days. If I want to see motion in my images I shoot video! Geesh how phony looking these cotton candy waterfall photos are. I know they’re “trendy,” but I think they’re just silly. Again, JMHO…. Admittedly, I’m an old guy… been taking photos for 65 years… so….

  • pjh123

    I totally agree with you on how phony the waterfall pics can look with exposures that are too long. I think the technique is valid, and CAN look good when used in moderation. But often it is overdone and the idea of “more is better” leads to an image where it does look like cotton candy and not like water at all.

  • Phillip Christie

    Tried to copy the settings from program mode but the camera seems to know what to do. This is the only time a computer can tell me what to do. ??

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