When is Manual Focus Better than Auto Focus?
Modern day Digital Cameras present photographers with an ever increasing array of Automatic and Semi Automatic shooting modes. Most of these center around different ways of exposing your shots – however many cameras also give options for different focusing modes (eg – auto, continuous focusing for moving subjects, single point focusing, multiple point focusing, face recognition focusing and manual).
It’s no wonder then that many photographers never make use of their camera and lens’ ability to focus manually.
In fact this week I spoke with one young DSLR owner recently who hadn’t even noticed the manual/auto focus switch on the side of his lens. He’d grown up with Auto focus on every camera he’d ever owned and hadn’t thought this his camera might have manual focus.
So when is Manual Focus Better than Auto Focus?
Let me start by saying there is no right or wrong time to use either manual or auto focusing – both can produce great results in almost all circumstances – however there are a few times when you might find it easier to switch to manual focusing. These include:
Macro Work
When doing macro photography I almost exclusively switch to manual focusing and find the results much more pleasing.
The narrow depth of field in these shots mean that you need to be incredibly precise with focusing and being just a smidgen out or having your camera choose to focus on the wrong part of your subject can have a significant impact upon your image (for better or for worse).
Manual focusing puts the control completely in your hands and will get your images with the right parts in focus.
Portraits
When shooting portraits focus needs to be precise.
The majority of your shots of people will need to have their eyes in perfect focus.
Switching to manual focus will give you complete control to enable this rather than having to line up the focusing points on your camera on the eyes prefocussing by pressing halfway down and then having to frame your shot.
Manual focusing keeps this to be a much simpler process.
Shooting Through Glass or Wire Fences
If you’ve ever shot through anything like a window or a mess/wire fence at a zoo or museum you’ll know how cameras will often get confused on where to focus.
Sometimes falsely focusing too closely on the fence or glass instead of your subject.
Manual focusing will avoid this completely and allow you to tell the camera exactly what you want to be in focus and what you want to be blurred.
Action Photography
Shooting fast moving subjects (like racing cars, planes, running or flying animals etc) can be a frustrating experience when shooting with auto focus.
Even the continuous focusing modes can get left behind or confusing if you’re not panning with your subject smoothly.
One way to overcome this is to switch to manual focusing and prefocus on a point that the subject will move through – and shooting at that point.
Low Light
Shooting in dimly lit environments can be difficult for some cameras and lenses when it comes to focusing.
You’ll know when your camera is struggling in Auto mode when every time you go to take a shot the lens will whirl from one end of it’s focusing options to the other and back again before deciding on where to focus.
This can really lengthen your shooting process and make taking quick candid shots quite frustrating.
Homework
Shooting in manual focus mode is a skill that you need to learn and practice. While you will have more time to get it right when shooting still objects – it can become more difficult when shooting moving subjects – so practice.
This week set aside an hour or two with your camera to shoot only in manual focus mode. Practice on a variety of subjects including some moving ones. While your practice session might not produce great results the skill that you learn will be useful to have.
46 Responses to “When is Manual Focus Better than Auto Focus?” - Add Yours
June 26th, 2008 at 12:51 am
I don’t know about you, but I’ve had great result using automatic focus with sports photographs. I guess that depends partly on the lens being used.
June 26th, 2008 at 12:57 am
I use to love auto focusing with my STX-2 film since it had this split focusing. But now with DSLR, there is no split ring focus and have to depend on the green dot that lights up in the viewfinder to confirm the focus :(
I have really messed up many shots due to poor focus, how i wish the split ring is again available with the dSlrs :)
June 26th, 2008 at 12:58 am
I shoot a lot of motorsports pictures and mostly use a Canon L series lens (70-200,2.8).
Using AI autofocus works sometimes, but to get real sharp pictures, manual focus is absolutly mandatory.
June 26th, 2008 at 1:21 am
I agree with Chris. I haven’t done anything really fast moving, but generally I’m okay with autofocus. I have to admit that I’m still a little afraid of manual focus, mostly because I can’t see very well and I have more confidence in the camera’s sensors than in my own eyes. It’s definitely something I need to start practicing.
June 26th, 2008 at 2:03 am
Thanks for the advice. I a VERY new to the photography thing and I’m very excited to see what my new camera can do.
June 26th, 2008 at 3:07 am
Manual focus is also critical if you want to shoot multiple shots and then stitch them together into a panorama. Here’s one that I shot with auto focus.
http://flickr.com/photos/rhythmandcode/585998120/
If you look closely you can see differences in the focus depth as you move from right to left across the image. Compare the focus of the grass on the edges vs. in the middle.
Here’s one taken with manual focus so that the depth of focus is consistent across the whole image.
http://flickr.com/photos/rhythmandcode/2603742878/
Manual exposure settings (aperture and shutter speed) and a proper tripod are also critical for good panos.
June 26th, 2008 at 3:10 am
I find that manual mode is great for any kind of ‘event’ (sports, concert, wedding) where I’m going to be a fixed distance from the action. Because I don’t know when I’m going to need to shoot, setting manual reduces the shot cycle time by a brief moment and helps me to capture the image that I want.
This was very significant for my older point and shoot given the slow cyle time in continuous. If, for example, I wanted to capture a dramatic moment in a concert, I really only had one shot at it and couldn’t wait for the autofocus.
June 26th, 2008 at 3:48 am
I think the question is round the wrong way, it should read; – “When is auto focus better than manual?”
I was bought up on a manual SLR (No auto focus) before my conversion to DSLR so I very rarely use auto focus.
You can’t compose a picture when the machine is trying to take over!
Maybe we could put manual or auto? to the vote.
June 26th, 2008 at 4:37 am
I disagree with the 2nd and the last point, where Portraits and Low Light were mentioned. I find that there have been far too many shots that I had missed out on when I used manual focussing on my 50mm on portraits (especially spontaneous/kids). Unless they’re a paid model, it’s really hard to keep them still (which also tends to lead to a less natural shot).
In Low Light, it’s really difficult to manually focus especially when the viewfinder is not exactly the brightest and light is hardly visible. But on the other points, I have to agree to them =) Cheers.
June 26th, 2008 at 6:14 am
My camera’s auto focus really struggles when I’m trying to shoot the sky at sunset, so I just manually focus.
June 26th, 2008 at 6:27 am
I definitely have to agree with using manual with Macro work. With sports photography though I find the D300 set to 21pt AF with Release Priority, AF-C, Dynamic AF does an uncanny job.
June 26th, 2008 at 7:22 am
I dunno, manual vs auto.
But I did want to say: Hey this is a great blog! Yea, like so many sites I stumbled onto it from another link. Thanks for taking the time to share the info, tips & techniques and build a community of photogs.
June 26th, 2008 at 7:29 am
I have a mild glasses prescription and I have found that what appears to be in focus in the viewfinder is not what I get in my photos. Now this will of course vary depending on if I have my glasses on or not, and there is the adjustment on the viewfinder for lens correction, but I find I have a hard time getting it dialed in right.
Does anyone else go through this? I finally worked it out (at the museum after multiple poor shots) by picking something and focusing on it with a large aperture producing a shallow depth of field and looking at the resulting image. My focus was actually behind where it looked like it was focusing so I increased the correction a click or two and repeated. This took about 5 repeats before I got it locked in as good as I could, shooting without my glasses.
Is this really the process that must be done? Each time?
June 26th, 2008 at 8:09 am
This post is rather timely because I just got a 50mm lens and was playing with it last night. Almost returned it because the lens had great difficulty focusing under low light, resulting in blurred photos. But then I switched to manual focus and voila! My photos came out clear and crisp.
June 26th, 2008 at 9:00 am
Sunny days, hyperfocal distance and f8/16? Worked for Cartier-Bresson…
June 26th, 2008 at 2:38 pm
If you DO want to use auto-focus for portraits, then all you need to do is change your auto-focus to just use the center focus-point. Use that to focus the eye. You don’t have to worry about trying to fight the auto-focus not to focus on the tip of your subject’s nose… :)
Granted – it’s still a tiny bit slower than manual because you have to move the center point to the eye and then back to the true center of your portrait (wherever you want that), but it helps.
June 26th, 2008 at 4:50 pm
Getting an after market custom focusing screen makes manual focus a treat with AF cameras
http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/
I have been favouring M42 lenses with my DSLR and missed the split prism of my spotmatic
June 26th, 2008 at 5:00 pm
Thanks for this! I just started remembering to use the AE-L/AF-L button to maintain the correct focus when reframing, but I really should practice manual focus, so that I have it when I need it.
Raymond, I find that my 50mm takes quite a while to find focus in low-light and then I miss the shot because people start making an “are you ever going to take it?” expression… perhaps manual focus is needed, but we need to practice to be quicker?
June 26th, 2008 at 5:08 pm
I strongly agree with Richard. I am from the same “old school” of manual cameras.
The first camera I had was Zenit SLR. Then, after a few years came Pentax SLR, also a film camera. When I finally bought a dSLR I suddenly discovered autofocus. Initially I thought it will solve problems, but it caused me much more pain than it should.
Generally, I cannot agree more, that focusing *IS* part of a process of composing a photograph. If you cannot control it, you are not composing a picture – a machine does. At least part of it. I guess it depends on whether you want to “take a picture” (family meeting, etc.) or “make a photograph”, when you put all your creative effort into action.
As for me, I don’t use autofocus because I don’t trust it. It makes mistakes, unfortunately. Having practiced quite much with it I haven’t found a single occasion when auto mode would be better than my fingertips.
I support the idea of a vote – I would like to know how many of you share Richard’s and my perspectives.
June 26th, 2008 at 11:48 pm
You can take make a photograph with Auto focus, and I Auto focus works really fine for me in any situation I can provide pictures.
I agree with all the situations exept Sports and portrait. Specially in Sports there’s hardly any time to focus manually, You point, focus and shoot. There’s no time to waste.
June 27th, 2008 at 12:26 am
I’m with Tom and Richard on this one!!!!
Just how did we cope before auto-focus (Hic Hic)????
Granted, I now use autofocus most of the time but it can be a P.I.T.A.
I learn’t my photography on Practica’s, starting with a Practika Nova, then “L”, then “MTL3″ oh heady days and hand held metering and manual focus. Progressed to a Minolta X-300 (still manual everything), which is still with me to this day and taking superb pictures.
Now using a Nikon D80 plus all the other peripheral stuff that we get suckered into buying in this ever-spiralling, never ending, ever spending hobby of ours, but still not convinced 100% about digital so backed up with a used example of a Nikon F55 35mm film camera off e-Bay “just in case”
June 27th, 2008 at 12:28 am
I think that the point is that in some situations is better use the manual focus than the auto focus, the examples are that, examples, i agree whit all of them, in my little experience in some situations i got better results using manual focus, there is something that you feel, that you see, something in some point of view that you camera simply can’t “see” there is the moment to use manual focus for me. In other way i want add that the manual focus lets you chose point of view very interesting if you use it wisely :) Cheers.
June 27th, 2008 at 12:29 am
Manual focus is one of the main reasons why I just splurged on a more expensive camera. I can’t count the number of times I’ve thought I had a subject in focus, only to find out that I most definitely did not. Since I’m a fan of macros, this can really mess up a shot.
June 27th, 2008 at 12:59 am
I have used both and I guess it depends on the subject. I do mostly product micro and am a novice. Now my question is and it may seem dumb to some. But can someone please tell me do you wear your glasses when you are focusing or not?
My glasses are worn for reading but I have found when doing manual focus sometimes my photos come out blurry.
I need the whole piece in focus and that seems very difficult to do.
Any advise would be appreciated.
Dusty
June 27th, 2008 at 3:01 am
@kristarella – Hi, I do get that “when are you going to shoot expression” alot with manual focussing on my 50mm mainly because I try to get the perfect shot most times. Although some may say that AF is bad in low light, I’d also add that Manual focussing is also not easy at all in low light. I can focus (pretty) fast manually, but the people I shoot just don’t seem to have the patience most of the time. Grr. Practice is the key, I guess. Cheers for the reply.
June 27th, 2008 at 5:37 am
Use manual when doing time lapse photography. It’s the best option, most of the time. Sometimes, you will wanna go AE mode too.
June 27th, 2008 at 6:31 am
I’d say depends on the lens, manual focusing the nikon 18-55 is horrible, however manual focusing my Nikkor-O 35mm F/2 is a beauty (also the 105mm micro nikkor is nice at focusing manually).
Some times with a tripod and a still object I auto focus and then switch to manual, I had great results at the World Rally Championship with autofocusing also.
June 27th, 2008 at 8:05 am
Rich, I have the same problem of trying to get a crisp focus on manual. I mostly shoot portraits w/ a 50mm lens on a fairly large aperature (necessary for the type of portraits I specialize in). Is it my lens? Is it my eyes? Is it my camera? I have to drastically over-shoot each client just to make room for the blurry ones that will show up. It’s becoming frustrating. It’s not my lights, I have great lights and am outside a lot too. Pls HELP.
June 27th, 2008 at 8:11 am
Let me clarify, my aperture is usually at 4. While this is not as large as I would like for it to be(i would prefer 2-3!), I have kept it here to aid my camera in not blurry-ing up most of my shots, yet still blur most of the background.
June 27th, 2008 at 9:37 am
Jackie, I doubt it’s the lens. It could be your eyes, but if you don’t usually have problems then probably not. It’s likely to be the dioptic view: there’s a little adjustment next to the viewfinder that you can adjust for your eyes. Check your manual for more.
June 27th, 2008 at 9:53 am
Thanks kristarella. Don’t have eye problems, I will check the diop though.
June 27th, 2008 at 4:30 pm
Rich and Jackie… i have the same problem and it’s especially frustrating when you’re fighting with time. To me it’s definitely my eye problem. I hate wearing contact lens and find it a nuisance when my glasses bang against the viewfinder. As for the viewfinder lens correction, does it really work? Sorry to ask dumb questions but i’m a beginner
June 27th, 2008 at 4:55 pm
Hello everyone,
This is an interesting discussion going on. I have tried various times to work with manual (I also wear glasses). And I’m also experienceing ‘out of focus pics’ when using manual focus. This is very annoying.
I hav also considred various times to by a focus screen. But i am a bit wary to do that since you have to install the focus screen yourself and I am affraid to ruin my camera.
June 27th, 2008 at 10:28 pm
Manual focus is also better when your lens front or back focuses ;)
I have this problem with a Sigma lens (going back for recalibration, this is covered by the warranty).
The main problem I have with focusing is that while “old” reflex cameras were designed with manual focus in mind, and had lots of focusing help built in (like the split circle), the ground glass in the modern digitals no longer have those. Luckily you can usually change the glass to get an old style one (I have to do this on mine).
June 29th, 2008 at 12:09 pm
This is great. I’ve really only used manual focus in low light when the camera doesn’t really know what to focus on, but I’ve never thought of the other times it could be useful. One of my big frustrations is a lack of sharp eyes so I’ll definitely try that!
June 29th, 2008 at 2:57 pm
I always insist my students to use and learn about manual focus. Still I found much ease to use manual focus. But now a days because of the technology most of the photographers use auto focus to capture the moment.
July 1st, 2008 at 3:10 am
Always. That’s what I have learned in practice. I used auto focus much some years ago but I got lots of pictures that were not sharp at all. I decided to get rid of auto focus and use my feet instead.
October 18th, 2008 at 11:22 am
I’m having trouble w/ my manual focus when taking portraits, I make sure that I’m completly focused in the viewfinder, but then they come out blurry. Should I be using autofocus?
October 18th, 2008 at 3:42 pm
Summer, near the side of your viewfinder there might be a lever or scroll wheel or something that adjusts the view. It’s called the diopter adjustment. Maybe it’s not suited to your eye?
You could try autofocusing and the change the diopter and see what it looks like to you.
October 20th, 2008 at 11:25 pm
still the same problem here too. my eyes are fine, my diopter has been checked too. on my most recent shoot, i shot 200 raw images. once i digitally processed them and then looked at all of the TIF’s (i enlarge them on my 17″ screen), only 122 were in focus. that was using both manual and auto. i’ve almost lost confidence in my skills b/c of this. i’ve mastered composition, lighting, etc…, but the focus problem has me wondering and frustrated.
October 21st, 2008 at 6:35 am
Ok, there are a number of issues here.
First, modern reflex (DSLR) cameras have absolutely crappy focusing screens (this is the screen that the image is projected upon, in older days it would feature at least microprisms and often a split prism as focusing aids, those days are gone unfortunately).
Secondly, DSLR makers know that most of their users will *only* use the auto focus (and a significant number will also only use kit lenses). So why do they bother buying a DSLR in the first place ? Well, haven’t you heard of marketing ?
And thirdly, so called “third party” lens makers sometimes have trouble calibrating their lenses for all the models of cameras out there (for example my “Bigma” is being recalibrated right now for my K10). This in no way means the so called “3rd party” lenses are bad, it just means the camera makers are getting better in obscuring the comminication between their lenses and their camera body. 3rd party lenses are often as good (and sometimes better) as brand ones for way less money.
Another example is the wide Sigma zoom (11-17 I think) which regularly has problems. If yours has focusing trouble, just send it back.
And if you have trouble with manual focusing, just change the ground focusing glass. Pretty much every camera lets you change it easily (although it’s often a plastic sheet). You’ll be amazed at the difference it makes.
October 22nd, 2008 at 5:00 am
FFred,
THAT makes sense!
I use a prime lens that did not come w/ my DSLR, and it’s f/1.8 – very fast. i looked into your claims a bit more and found this article which is also very helpful in addition to your advice. http://www.jayandwanda.com/photography/dslr_man_focus/man_focus.html
perhaps it’s my camera. perhaps it’s my lens. perhaps it’s THAT lens on THAT camera. O the possibilities…. that really sucks… ;-)
November 4th, 2008 at 10:31 am
That’s a very interesting page you found.
It raises a number if very interesting issues. While changing my focusing screen was more or less on my distant “to do” list, it has now been promoted to “essential must get gear”.
February 11th, 2009 at 12:27 pm
I’ll do it. Tomorrow I’ll try portrait with manual focus, and then something else, macro or… When you learn spartan wasy, you can always do autofocus, but you can not do manual if you never learn to do it….
March 12th, 2009 at 12:43 pm
Good infor from everyone. I am just getting back into photography since digital has come so far, including the lenses. First off – I agree that the technology has come so far that many good, great even, are shot in the auto mode. I was opposing manual for some reason until yesterday when I was trying some tests shots with low light in the yard. So this morning I went to the beach (Cha Am Thailand) where they have some half sunken boats with the sunrise in the background. I took some in about all the modes and found that to get even colors from front to back, at least in this situation, manual worked better. But, to date, several of my favorite photos I am going to have framed were taken in the auto mode.
It seems the “Old School” photographers say if you shoot in anything but manual you might as well stick to the point-and-shoot pocket cameras. Old habits are hard to break I know. But, there are times when a numer of settings, auto or manual, will produce a great photo. Just being in the right place at the right time is half the battle. And being able to have an “artist’s eye” to even see the photo is the first step. Once you have these two obstacles down, take as many photos as you can if you are new in MANY modes and settings and you will figure out what works for you. No one can put another man’s hat on his head for him, he must do that himself or it just does not feel right.
Thanks everyone for the info I read, I do take what I need……..eat the meat and spit out the bones.
Peace and Joy Always………TT
August 27th, 2009 at 4:41 pm
Thanks so much for this post! For some reason I have gotten into my head that if I do not shoot in manual mode only at all times, then I am not a true photographer. It’s great to read all of this and find out that THAT IS NOT TRUE!!!
The priority modes on my camera are also very helpful. Because then I can set up the exact aperture that I need and my camera figures out the best shutter speed. It feels better knowing that it’s ok to not shoot in full on manual all the time. I was having such a difficult time with focusing my lens. I would look into it and it would appear to be in focus but then once I saw the image, it was blurry where I didn’t want it to be blurry. Or, I would miss a good shot completely because I just couldn’t get the lens to focus in time. Definantly a bummer when photographing children because they sure are really quick and make priceless faces instantly and for only a few seconds most of the time.
TTessier, I also love what you said “No one can put another man’s hat on his head for him, he must do that himself or it just does not feel right.” Words to live by!
Thanks All!
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