Using The Ray-Flash Ring Flash Adapter To Reduce Shadows
I was recently lent a rather unique and useful flash adapter by the folks at Ray-Flash. It’s an adapter that fits over specific strobe and camera combinations in order to make the strobe usable as a ring flash. For those not familiar with a ring flash, in professional photography studios it is a circular flash that typically uses an accompanying softbox and special adapter to allow shots to be taken through the hole in the middle of the light. What Ray-Flash has done is simplify this setup and adapt it to already existing Canon and Nikon strobes (specifically the Nikon SB-800 and SB-900 and Canon Speedlite 580EX and 580EXII).
Check out the range of Ray-Flash Ring Flash Adapters on Amazon.
In use, the Ray-Flash is a simple device to handle; just slide it over the strobe and lock down the dial on top to make a snug fit. It will fit around most lens except the larger zooms with barrels beyond 80mm in diameter or so (noting that any LENGTH zoom will work, such as a 70-200mm if you like). If you have velcro on your flash, for use with gels, bounces or softboxes, you may experience some trouble as the fit is very specific and tight for the strobes. The ring flash adapter has many small channels to basically funnel light from the strobe along paths and spread it evenly around the circumference of the lens. In practice the adapter is very easy to slide on and off and dead simple to use. This set of diagrams from Ray-Flash’s site shows just how easy.
Of course, this diagram is showing the install without a camera attached. You’ll want to install the unit while the strobe is on a camera as the strobe mounts back to front and the Ray-Flash mounts front to back. Also, once attached, the Ray-Flash does cover focus assist lights on strobes that use them, but does not change any TTL functions of the camera.
Let’s take a look at a quick self portrait I shot after unpacking the adapter and eagerly tinkering with it. My setup is a Canon 7D with a Speedlite 580EXII strobe. First, a shot taken at 1.5 meters with the Ray-Flash removed. (ISO 100, 1/60 sec, f/4, 48mm equivalent)
Because of my proximity to the background, there are heavy shadows as well as under my chin. Yes, there are other ways to remove these shadows, but here I’m trying to show the utility of the Ray-Flash. I’m also in need of a haircut at this point. The Ray-Flash can not help with that.
Now the same shot with the Ray-Flash attached. (ISO 100, 1/60 sec, f/4, 48mm equivalent)
The shadows behind me are greatly softened and now make something of a halo effect. Also, the shadow under my chin is much more manageable and helps to add depth to the photo, rather than detracting from it. However, as you can notice, this photo is darker than the first. This is a by product of the adapter as some light loss occurs when all that light bounces around the channels before exiting the Ray-Flash. Different models (between the Canon and Nikon versions) require a bit of boost. You can either adapt by adjusting in post-process as I did below by upping the exposure one stop in Lightroom, or you can adjust your flash output while the adapter is attached.
Ray-Flash has more specific data on light output and flash ranges available on their website here.
Another example is below with the help of my friend Genevieve. I could not convince her to put down the book on climbing anchors (and quite frankly, I’m glad she didn’t as I had to rely on those anchors later) but it actually helped to show the difference in flash effects. In this case, because some of the flash is coming from under the book when the Ray-Flash is used, it does cause a bit of shadow from the book as compared to when no Ray-Flash is used and the light is only coming from the top. And as the background becomes further removed, so do the shadows seen in my self portraits. The first photo is without the Ray-Flash and the second is with.
While these photos are not ‘professional’ in-the-studio examples, I wanted to give a real world test to the Ray-Flash. I could have brought it in to a professional studio and compared it side by side with a softbox setup costing hundreds of dollars more, but this adapter is best suited to being stuffed in a bag for shots done on location. Also, while most of us do not have access to a much larger ring flash setup, the Ray-Flash makes it possible for the serious hobbyist to experiment and improve on the standard single strobe setup.
Check out the range of Ray-Flash Ring Flash Adapters on Amazon.
15 Responses to “Using The Ray-Flash Ring Flash Adapter To Reduce Shadows” - Add Yours
June 19th, 2010 at 1:23 am
This has to be the worst review I have ever seen…
What am I supposed to learn from your efforts with these examples? Ray Flash under exposes? I understand the value of a ‘real world’ example but that is shocking…
So am I to understand that ray flash knock enough stops from your flash to make it unassailable? So its no longer on my shopping list. If so I will stick with my Ezybox Softbox thanks, mins to set up and can deliver correctly exposed images, without having to lift the exposure in Lightroom…
June 19th, 2010 at 2:13 am
In that last picture, the book looks like it’s been added in Photoshop
June 19th, 2010 at 2:40 am
The examples don’t convince not to use bounce flash. I need that directional light.
June 19th, 2010 at 2:52 am
Because you’ll lose 1/3-1 full stop of light from your flash, I strongly suggest you either over-power your flash or use exposure compensation in the camera to achieve the proper exposure and not rely on fixing it in post (LR / PS / Aperture / etc.). If you adjust the image in post the way the author suggests, you could see JPG artifacting / blocking in the shadow details by increasing the exposure. You’ll get a much better and more pleasant result by just shooting it right in camera.
June 19th, 2010 at 3:16 am
Looks like a nice compromise, too bad they only make it for the 580 and not the 430.
June 19th, 2010 at 5:07 am
Not exactly unique… there’s also the Orbis Ray Flash. http://www.flickr.com/photos/tcdk/tags/orbis/
It’s hard to use a ring flash right. It can easily show to many details or make every thing flat. I recommend running it 1-2 stops below your main light as fill..
June 19th, 2010 at 5:09 am
Either use a proper ring light (that has it’s own stand) or use a bouncing system of some sort.
June 19th, 2010 at 5:38 am
Thank you for this demonstration. I was hoping though for a third shot with the subject (you) further from the wall). Any comments on how well the ring flash works outdoors? Would you ever use it on a strobe on a light stand for off camera flash?
June 20th, 2010 at 12:46 am
But you didn’t show the best way to use it… the Jarvie Window!
June 21st, 2010 at 12:41 am
Simon, First, it’s not a review, so maybe that’s why it’s the worst you’ve seen.
Second, if all you got out of it was that you have to bump your flash, then please check the title. It’s about lightening shadows by ‘bending’ the light around a subject, instead of coming from a high mounted flash.
It’s just one technique that can be used. Lighten up a little. if you can’t adjust your flash up one stop, then yes, this probably isn’t the tool for you.
June 21st, 2010 at 12:55 am
Artiom –
Nope, it’s just a new book with a shiny cover.
Joshua – You’re still welcome to use a bounce. But what happens when you’re outside?
Mike – I mention you can do either adjust the flash on camera or in post, in this post. You’re right that adjusting it on camera (something that can be done with the camera itself controls on most modern DSLRs) tends to lead to better results. I didn’t mean to imply that you should just adjust it in post.
tc – I never said it was unique, although you’ll be hard to find another ring flash adapter that doesn’t require the construction of a bracket to hold it. I hope to get my hands on the Orbis at some point but at first glance I don’t like it’s two handed operation
Osmosis – First, I love your method of transporting water. Brilliant!! Second, there is room in this wonderful world of photography for all levels of involvement. A lot of people don’t have the cash or need to for a full ring flash setup. This is just an option. It’s ok to have options, really.
Jason – I’ve already sent the adapter back so I can’t give you that shot. But from experimenting I know the effect on the face is the same, it’ll just be the shadow that becomes less and less, but it’s still there (see the last photos as the wall behind Genevieve moves further away from her as you look left to right)
June 21st, 2010 at 6:05 pm
Peter, you start your text with “I was recently lent a rather unique and useful flash adapter” – I know you soften it with “rather” and … anyway, it doesn’t really matter.
Yes, the need for a bracket, if you don’t want to hold it, is a problem with the Orbis. It’s also one of it’s strengths – you can easily take it off and hold it to the side if you want. And if you hand hold it, you are not blocking the focus assist on the flash – which is important for some. And, you can turn it! – Ring flash adapters like this doesn’t distribute the light a 100% even.
There’s actually a review of the Orbis on DPS: http://digital-photography-school.com/orbis-ring-flash-review
June 21st, 2010 at 11:40 pm
Peter, you start your text with “I was recently lent a rather unique and useful flash adapter” – I know you soften it with “rather” and … anyway, it doesn’t really matter.
Yes, the need for a bracket, if you don’t want to hold it, is a problem with the Orbis. It’s also one of it’s strengths – you can easily take it off and hold it to the side if you want. And if you hand hold it, you are not blocking the focus assist on the flash – which is important for some. And, you can turn it! – Ring flash adapters like this doesn’t distribute the light a 100% even.
There’s actually a review of the Orbis on DPS: http://digital-photography-school.com/orbis-ring-flash-review
June 25th, 2010 at 4:55 am
What about the use of the Ray Flash Ring for macro photography–would that be a good usage of it?
June 25th, 2010 at 6:38 am
One thing that isn’t noted is how nice these adapters are for macro work given the price. Plus, there is another brand you can buy that works with the 430II.
Plus, when doing portraits, it give circular catch lights which can be cool on close ups.
Leave a Reply