The Ultimate Guide to Zone Focusing for Candid Street Photography - Digital Photography School
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The Ultimate Guide to Zone Focusing for Candid Street Photography

Glance, 34th Street

1/320th at F11, ISO 800 (17mm) – Canon 5D Mark II.

Capturing strangers candidly, yet tack sharp, is probably the toughest technical skill to learn in street photography.

With a genre such as landscape photography, you can find your location, plan your shot, wait patiently for the correct lighting, and make sure that you are ready to pounce when the perfect moment hits.  But candid street photography is an entirely different beast.  Often, you are presented with a moment so quickly that your reaction time is severely tested.  It is so tough to frame correctly, focus correctly, and capture a spontaneous shot at the right moment, all while trying to keep things candid.

The solution?  Learning to zone focus.  Not every street photographer zone focuses, but the ones that do swear by it.  While I use autofocus when I can, I too swear by it.  And with a little practice, it’s not all that hard to learn.

Honestly, it’s way harder to explain it than it is to actually do it.

Depth of Field (DOF)

Tiger

Tiger

1/250th at F4, ISO 3200 (28mm) – Canon 5D Mark II.

Before we go into what zone focusing is, we need to talk about the factors that go into creating DOF.  If you know this already then feel free to skip to the next section.

The term Depth of Field refers to the area in front of and behind a subject that you focus on that will appear acceptably sharp.  For instance, say you focus on a subject that is 10 feet away.  Depending on your camera settings, that might mean that everything from 8 feet away to 14 feet away will be acceptably sharp.  That would be your depth of field.  Also, keep in mind that the area behind your subject that is acceptably sharp will always be greater than the area in front of your subject, and in many cases much greater.

Depending on four factors, your aperture, your focal length, the distance that you are focusing at, and on your camera’s sensor size, your depth of field can change drastically.  Here are the four factors in detail:

  1. The smaller your aperture, the more DOF there will be in a scene.  So if you are shooting at F16, much more of your scene will be sharp than if you are shooting a F2.8.
  2. The wider your focal length, the more DOF there will be in a scene.  So if you are shooting at 28mm, much more of your scene will be in focus than if you are shooting at 100mm.  This is why I rarely zone focus using a lens longer than 35mm.
  3. The further away you focus, the more DOF there will be in a scene.  So if you focus on a person 10 feet away, then you may have a range of three feet in front and six feet behind your subject that will be sharp (depending on the other three factors), whereas if you focus on a person that is 3 feet away, you may have a range of 3 inches in front and 6 inches behind your subject that will be sharp.
  4. The larger your camera’s sensor is, the less DOF there will be in a scene.  If you are using a full frame camera like the Canon 5D, then there will be less DOF then if you are shooting with a camera with a smaller sensor, such as the 7D, 60D, or a micro-4/3rds camera, with the same settings.

Here is a website to test out these different depth of field factors: http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html.  Keep in mind that the term ‘acceptable range of sharpness’ is just an opinion.  As your subjects veer further from the focus distance of your lens, they will appear less and less sharp, whether or not they are in the ‘acceptable’ range on the chart.  So practice with your own camera and lens to figure out what is ‘acceptable’ to you.  This website is only a general guide to get your started.

Zone Focusing

Traveler

Traveler

 1/400th at F8, ISO 1600 (17mm) – Canon 5D Mark II.

Zone focusing is pre-focusing your camera to a certain distance away, say 10 feet, guessing the DOF that you will have at that distance with the settings you are using, and then photographing subjects as they enter that range, and hopefully as close as possible to the actual focus distance on the camera.

It is also being able to change your focus distance quickly and accurately, without looking, as a subject moves closer or further from you.

The reason for doing this is that both using autofocus and turning the manual focusing dial takes time (and often will be noticeable to your potentially candid subjects) and most of the time things happen so fast on the street that you need to be focused ahead of time.  If your camera is already focused to an average distance away, then you can just wait for your subject to enter that range and there will be no delay from when a moment happens to when you are able to click the shutter.  It will be instant.  In addition, this will allow you to shoot without looking through the viewfinder, if you decide that you want to ‘shoot from the hip.’

Here is a specific example based on common settings that I use.  With the 5D Mark II and a 28mm focal length, if I pre-focus my camera to 8 feet away at F8, then everything from around 5.5 feet to 15 feet away will be ‘acceptably’ sharp.  Of course, as you get to the outer areas of that range the subject will not be perfectly sharp, but for fast-moving street photography, it gives me a serious range to work with.  At F11 or F16, even more so.

Manual Focus Meter, 5D Mark II

The only problem is that you need to have a lens with a manual focusing meter, such as the one in the photo above, that shows you the distance that the camera is focused at and is easily manipulated.  Many cameras and lenses don’t have this but some will tell you the focal length in the camera’s menu or viewfinder.  While not perfect, this will work somewhat.

But if you want to do candid street photography then I highly suggest getting a lens with a manual focus meter.

So it should be obvious to you why we generally want the range of sharpness to be as great as possible when zone focusing (unless you want more bokeh for aesthetic reasons).  It is for when we mess up slightly in guessing how far something is away so that there will still be enough leeway for our main subject to be sharp, or so we can get multiple subjects at different distances to all be relatively sharp.  These are two reasons that many street photographers prefer to use wide-angle lenses, such as 28mm or 35mm.  My go-to focal length is generally 28mm.

It is also the reason why you want to shoot at a high ISO in street photography (unless the light is strong).  If you shoot with a high-ISO, it allows you to shoot with a smaller aperture.  With my 5D Mark II, ISOs of 800, 1600, and 3,200 are usually my standards (unless the light is strong).  For many cameras, the ISOs may not be ideal at these levels, however that is quickly changing these days with each new camera released.  Test your camera at different ISO settings to see what its acceptable range is.

Guessing Distances

If you are like me then you often do street photography in less than ideal lighting, such as in the subway system.  When you’re shooting at F16 in bright sunlight, you don’t have to think as much about it.  It won’t matter much if your subject is 9 feet away versus 10 feet away.  But when you are shooting at F2.8 in the subway, it really does matter.

Reflection, Subway

Reflection, Subway

1/250th at F2, ISO 3200 (35mm) – Fuji X100.

For this reason, it is important to learn the distances away from your camera’s lens, all the way up to around 12 feet away.  I suggest using a tape measure and measuring out the distances, from 2 feet from your lens all the way to 12 feet.

Go out and practice.  Find different objects and try to guess how far they are away.  Before I go out I will still pick an object around eight feet away and focus on it to make sure I’m guessing my distances right.  It’s a skill that you need to constantly calibrate.  I have gotten a lot of strange looks over the years from people who have seen me focusing intently on lampposts 8 – 10 feet away.

The other reason to get good at guessing distances is that people move and scenes develop.  You might want to capture a person walking towards you at both 10 feet and 5 feet away.  So when you hold the camera you want to always have one of your hands on the focusing ring.  Practice manual focusing back and forth from 10 feet to 8 feet to 6 feet and so on.  Eventually, you’ll be able to capture someone walking towards you sharp at both 10 feet away and 6 feet away, without having to look through the viewfinder.  It’s an incredibly effective technique.  Doing this well, however, can be tough.

Couple, St. Marks Street

Couple, St. Marks Street

1/320th at F5, ISO 1600 (28mm) – Canon 5D Mark II.

My final word of advice is that if you have the time to autofocus or manual focus with a viewfinder on a subject without them noticing, then do it.  That is much more consistently accurate than trying to guess distances and zone focusing.  But for a majority of the time, zone focusing will be your best and quickest weapon on the street.

Read more from our Tips & Tutorials category.

James Maher is a professional photographer based in New York, whose primary passion is documenting the unique personalities and stories of the city. He is the author of the e-book, "The Essentials of Street Photography" and runs photo tours of New York. Visit his website or say hi on Facebook or Google+.

  • raghavendra
  • r

    I almost HAVE to zone focus with my Leica X1…that thing is so slow with autofocus…but I actually like zone focusing..it keeps me on my toes.

  • http://www.wildlifeencounters.eu steve slater
  • Greg Mitchell

    Inaccuracy in this article. A crop sensor vs FF sensor has no direct effect on DOF. The reason it is common to say an FF sensor has thinner DOF is because to produce a similar image (think head and shoulders portrait), the FF camera needs to be closer to the subject. Closer focusing distance means less DOF. Not the sensor size! If I take a FF image and crop off the edges in photoshop, the DOF doesn’t change. That’s the same thing that happens with a crop sensor.

  • http://www.flixelpix.com david

    I think to create the best DOF effect it is best to put as much distance between the subject and the background. The further lights are away from the subject the nicer the look. I am pretty addicted to zone focusing to draw attention to particular aspects of a scene. Great article.

  • http://mikhailanand.wordpress.com/ Mikhail Anand
  • Frank

    If your lens does not have a focus scale (manual focus meter), you can autofocus on an static object at the right distance, for example a pole, phone booth or a shop window.

  • dan price

    @Greg, thanks for that explanation. Before reading the comments I was sure that point was inaccurate. Even the linked DOF calculator supports your comment.

    Thanks.

  • Andrew

    I have to agree, sensor size has no effect on DOF, the 50mm lens has the same DOF for the same parameters on a crop, or full frame or a 6×6. This error is repeated over and over on this webiste.

  • BDelap

    Awsome. I’ve been wanting to do more street photography nut find the intimidation factor, and pensions for posing an issue. I’ll give this a go.

  • John Belmont

    Frank’s suggestion to autofocus on a static object at the right distance is good … just so long as after that you flip to manual focus and don’t touch the focus ring. This autofocus-switch-to-manual technique also requires practice so that you won’t forget the switch to manual.

  • http://richardbastian.com newscruzer1

    i found the article,”using the zone system useless”
    I would think any photog. who has an ounce of experience in shooting would know to take their camera off the auto mode and use manual settings before heading out into the streets to shoot candids.
    With this being said, what would be do difficult in pre setting your settings before hand?
    Example, if your subject matter is say ten feet away or what ever, then pre focus and adjust your exposure and white balance as well and presto, your ready to go.
    I carry a hand held light meter and white balance cards with me and use them to set my camera settings.
    This has proven to serve me well.
    In this modern day of electronics, seems everyone is an instant photographer, however I say “there is more to photography than what meets the eye”.
    I’m old school, shooting in the days of B/W 35mm film.
    With an exposure of 36 exposures per roll I learned to be selective when taking my shots.
    I liked using the magic 16 formula, that’s to say if your asa is 400 and your shooting in average lighting during a sun lit day, then set your shutter speed at at 250 and aperture at F;16, could bracket up or down one stop to be sure the exposure was dead on.
    The digital cameras are nice and as I’m sure most, as myself have found, they have every whistle and bell imaginable, which for me makes remembering all the configurations a real task, specially in my old age.
    Reverting back to my manual settings keeps it simple and works quit well for me.

  • http://jameson079.wordpress.com/ jameson079

    awesome! I’m just getting into photography and its great to read about different techniques people use! I guess I’ll be heading out to the City for some street photography! :D

  • Diana Michaels

    Really good tutorial on hyperfocal focusing, without going too technical.

    I so much WISH you had your lenght quotes expressed not only in feet, but also in meters. I guest most people in the world use meters (?). Well, I have no mental reference for feet – I’ll convert the figures.

  • Sarah

    Thanks – I found this article useful and shots inspiring. Well written and something for all levels. Heard of Sunny 16 formula but not magic 16 Newzcruzer. f16 at ISO 100 on 100th sec was the way I was taught in my film days (slightly easier to remember than yours). So one could say more “useful”!

  • John Belmont

    Hi Sara, I learned that for average sunny day, “f16 at the speed of the film”. Which is just an extrapolation of your formula f16 at ISO 100 shoot 1/00 sec.

  • JP

    I have recently had the chance to do some good candid street photos. My question, can I use photos of strangers and make them public (web etc.)? I have no means of contacting anyone in the photos. They were taken in Miami over a year ago. Is there a law? Does anyone have a suggestion? Thanks
    JP

  • John Belmont

    Hi JP: I don’t know about the US, but do know about the French civil code’s article 7, having to do with personal rights to one’s image. A face in a crowd is OK, just so long as it’s clear that that face has not been singled out. Otherwise, there are HUGE civil penalties if you publish (show, put up on the web, etc.) somebody’s picture without their expressed consent to be shown, and they go after you. As for children, two parents’ signatures, if you please.

  • Denise

    Street photography is not something that is easy for a lot of us, and although we might want to capture the moment, many of us are challenged by the idea of taking photos of strangers in candid situations. Having stepped outside my comfort zone recently, trying my hand at Street Photography (because it was a topic for our camera club), I resorted to wandering around the city using my compact camera.

    I have another month before the topic is at camera club and this article has provided me with some very good tips so next weekend I will try again using my DSLR.

    I subscribe to DPS because I want to learn and I think it is a shame when people make negative remarks about the articles, without adding anything by way of correction or helpful hints.

    Many thanks to James Mayer for taking the time to put this together for us.

  • Emma

    Well said Denise. I found Newscruzer1s comment unhelpful & negative. There seems to be a real resistance from the self-proclaimed “old school/film” etc photographer’s. So WHAT if, in this day & age, “everyone” thinks they are a photographer? Isn’t that a good thing for our community? For our suppliers, improving technology & prices as the demand is there? People read posts to learn & share skills. There is no worldwide standard process for learning photography – so don’t assume your knowledge is so much better than anyone else’s!

  • http://N/A Steve Martin

    I like the fact that I as a person who is really interested in photography, can come along to a Web Site like this where experienced photographers are willing to give up their time and expertise, to submit helpful information for people to learn from, or make use of as a solution to a problem they may have. But then you have someone who thinks they know it all, so they submit negative response and critersize the Author of the segment in question. Just because they learned a different way of doing it and they have never forgoten anything before.
    I learned a very long time ago, that nomatter how good you are at doing something, you must always listen to what other people say, because even a fool can have a good idea, but if you don’t maintain an open mind and at least think about everything, one way or the other then you’ll learn nothing because your never to old to learn something new, or at least a better or quicker way of doing things.
    I learned a lot from the segment above as it was in a way I could understand, without all the technical jargon that confuses most people, especially begginers and the elderly, so I thank one and all for making this Web Site possible.

  • http://www.danidavila.com Dani Davila

    Useful information, thanks for sharing!

  • David

    I am still learning my camera and photography each day and this is probably the best and easiest to follow article on Zone Focusing I have come across. Thank you for taking the time to write and share it.

  • Enric Martinez

    I use another trick to gauge distance: I set the AF to a point that’s easy to focus (or just focus manually) and close or inside the area of interest, I read the distance in the (manual) focusing meter and then I can use this as reference.

    This is an easy method hat works with both film and digital.

  • Rob

    On the Panasonic GH3 you can control the camera remotely from a mobile phone and use touch focus on the phone screen with a power zoom lens fitted, easy and discreet :o)

Some older comments

  • David

    April 15, 2013 10:14 am

    I am still learning my camera and photography each day and this is probably the best and easiest to follow article on Zone Focusing I have come across. Thank you for taking the time to write and share it.

  • Dani Davila

    September 20, 2012 04:50 am

    Useful information, thanks for sharing!

  • Steve Martin

    August 25, 2012 10:06 am

    I like the fact that I as a person who is really interested in photography, can come along to a Web Site like this where experienced photographers are willing to give up their time and expertise, to submit helpful information for people to learn from, or make use of as a solution to a problem they may have. But then you have someone who thinks they know it all, so they submit negative response and critersize the Author of the segment in question. Just because they learned a different way of doing it and they have never forgoten anything before.
    I learned a very long time ago, that nomatter how good you are at doing something, you must always listen to what other people say, because even a fool can have a good idea, but if you don't maintain an open mind and at least think about everything, one way or the other then you'll learn nothing because your never to old to learn something new, or at least a better or quicker way of doing things.
    I learned a lot from the segment above as it was in a way I could understand, without all the technical jargon that confuses most people, especially begginers and the elderly, so I thank one and all for making this Web Site possible.

  • Emma

    August 24, 2012 01:56 pm

    Well said Denise. I found Newscruzer1s comment unhelpful & negative. There seems to be a real resistance from the self-proclaimed "old school/film" etc photographer's. So WHAT if, in this day & age, "everyone" thinks they are a photographer? Isn't that a good thing for our community? For our suppliers, improving technology & prices as the demand is there? People read posts to learn & share skills. There is no worldwide standard process for learning photography - so don't assume your knowledge is so much better than anyone else's!

  • Denise

    August 24, 2012 08:55 am

    Street photography is not something that is easy for a lot of us, and although we might want to capture the moment, many of us are challenged by the idea of taking photos of strangers in candid situations. Having stepped outside my comfort zone recently, trying my hand at Street Photography (because it was a topic for our camera club), I resorted to wandering around the city using my compact camera.

    I have another month before the topic is at camera club and this article has provided me with some very good tips so next weekend I will try again using my DSLR.

    I subscribe to DPS because I want to learn and I think it is a shame when people make negative remarks about the articles, without adding anything by way of correction or helpful hints.

    Many thanks to James Mayer for taking the time to put this together for us.

  • John Belmont

    August 24, 2012 06:32 am

    Hi JP: I don't know about the US, but do know about the French civil code's article 7, having to do with personal rights to one's image. A face in a crowd is OK, just so long as it's clear that that face has not been singled out. Otherwise, there are HUGE civil penalties if you publish (show, put up on the web, etc.) somebody's picture without their expressed consent to be shown, and they go after you. As for children, two parents' signatures, if you please.

  • JP

    August 24, 2012 06:27 am

    I have recently had the chance to do some good candid street photos. My question, can I use photos of strangers and make them public (web etc.)? I have no means of contacting anyone in the photos. They were taken in Miami over a year ago. Is there a law? Does anyone have a suggestion? Thanks
    JP

  • John Belmont

    August 24, 2012 04:47 am

    Hi Sara, I learned that for average sunny day, "f16 at the speed of the film". Which is just an extrapolation of your formula f16 at ISO 100 shoot 1/00 sec.

  • Sarah

    August 24, 2012 04:30 am

    Thanks - I found this article useful and shots inspiring. Well written and something for all levels. Heard of Sunny 16 formula but not magic 16 Newzcruzer. f16 at ISO 100 on 100th sec was the way I was taught in my film days (slightly easier to remember than yours). So one could say more "useful"!

  • Diana Michaels

    August 24, 2012 03:55 am

    Really good tutorial on hyperfocal focusing, without going too technical.

    I so much WISH you had your lenght quotes expressed not only in feet, but also in meters. I guest most people in the world use meters (?). Well, I have no mental reference for feet - I'll convert the figures.

  • jameson079

    August 24, 2012 02:52 am

    awesome! I'm just getting into photography and its great to read about different techniques people use! I guess I'll be heading out to the City for some street photography! :D

  • newscruzer1

    August 24, 2012 02:35 am

    i found the article,"using the zone system useless"
    I would think any photog. who has an ounce of experience in shooting would know to take their camera off the auto mode and use manual settings before heading out into the streets to shoot candids.
    With this being said, what would be do difficult in pre setting your settings before hand?
    Example, if your subject matter is say ten feet away or what ever, then pre focus and adjust your exposure and white balance as well and presto, your ready to go.
    I carry a hand held light meter and white balance cards with me and use them to set my camera settings.
    This has proven to serve me well.
    In this modern day of electronics, seems everyone is an instant photographer, however I say "there is more to photography than what meets the eye".
    I'm old school, shooting in the days of B/W 35mm film.
    With an exposure of 36 exposures per roll I learned to be selective when taking my shots.
    I liked using the magic 16 formula, that's to say if your asa is 400 and your shooting in average lighting during a sun lit day, then set your shutter speed at at 250 and aperture at F;16, could bracket up or down one stop to be sure the exposure was dead on.
    The digital cameras are nice and as I'm sure most, as myself have found, they have every whistle and bell imaginable, which for me makes remembering all the configurations a real task, specially in my old age.
    Reverting back to my manual settings keeps it simple and works quit well for me.

  • John Belmont

    August 24, 2012 01:02 am

    Frank's suggestion to autofocus on a static object at the right distance is good ... just so long as after that you flip to manual focus and don't touch the focus ring. This autofocus-switch-to-manual technique also requires practice so that you won't forget the switch to manual.

  • BDelap

    August 24, 2012 12:59 am

    Awsome. I've been wanting to do more street photography nut find the intimidation factor, and pensions for posing an issue. I'll give this a go.

  • Andrew

    August 23, 2012 04:06 pm

    I have to agree, sensor size has no effect on DOF, the 50mm lens has the same DOF for the same parameters on a crop, or full frame or a 6x6. This error is repeated over and over on this webiste.

  • dan price

    August 22, 2012 05:48 pm

    @Greg, thanks for that explanation. Before reading the comments I was sure that point was inaccurate. Even the linked DOF calculator supports your comment.

    Thanks.

  • Frank

    August 22, 2012 03:30 pm

    If your lens does not have a focus scale (manual focus meter), you can autofocus on an static object at the right distance, for example a pole, phone booth or a shop window.

  • Mikhail Anand

    August 22, 2012 03:15 pm

    http://mikhailanand.wordpress.com/2012/07/31/spitalfieldsstroll/
    http://mikhailanand.wordpress.com/2012/08/18/beach-bws/

  • david

    August 22, 2012 09:41 am

    I think to create the best DOF effect it is best to put as much distance between the subject and the background. The further lights are away from the subject the nicer the look. I am pretty addicted to zone focusing to draw attention to particular aspects of a scene. Great article.

  • Greg Mitchell

    August 22, 2012 06:47 am

    Inaccuracy in this article. A crop sensor vs FF sensor has no direct effect on DOF. The reason it is common to say an FF sensor has thinner DOF is because to produce a similar image (think head and shoulders portrait), the FF camera needs to be closer to the subject. Closer focusing distance means less DOF. Not the sensor size! If I take a FF image and crop off the edges in photoshop, the DOF doesn't change. That's the same thing that happens with a crop sensor.

  • steve slater

    August 22, 2012 05:09 am

    Used zone for this one - can be a useful technique
    http://wildlifeencounters.photoshelter.com/gallery-image/Street-photography-in-Eastbourne/G00004ShZCZqM52A/I0000IUJCCBodsp4

  • r

    August 22, 2012 03:41 am

    I almost HAVE to zone focus with my Leica X1...that thing is so slow with autofocus...but I actually like zone focusing..it keeps me on my toes.

  • raghavendra

    August 22, 2012 03:17 am

    I like guessing the distances part :)

    http://raghavendra-mobilephotography.blogspot.com/2010/09/one-fine-evening.html

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