Stretching Out – Shooting With Longer Focal Lengths
Virtually all point and shoot digital cameras are equipped with zoom lenses, mostly with 3X zooms and then there are the crazy beasts with even longer zoom ranges like 10X, 20X or even more.
The 3X zooms are usually set up so you get a moderately wide angle view at the smallest focal length, balanced by a reasonably narrow view at the telephoto end.
The tele end, you’ll find, is ideal for shooting portraits but not much more.
The reason? Pushing the zoom out to its telephoto extremity allows the laws of optics to come into play, defining a sharp focus zone around the subject, while allowing details closer to and farther from the camera to fall into soft focus. On many cameras there is a Portrait mode which helps this isolation effect by altering the lens aperture and other settings, but that’s another story …
The result? The person in the portrait is depicted sharply amongst a sea of extraneous detail, now rendered as a blurry background.
The telephoto end of your zoom can also be used as a dramatic tool to seemingly compress the objects in a shot, pull it all together and make an impressive, compacted statement.

The fishing boat shot is an excellent example of what you can do when your camera has a zoom with a long reach; this shot was taken with the zoom extended to a 35 SLR equivalent of 200mm. Notice how all detail in the subject is compressed, making a powerful composition.

Notice how much detail of the passengers has been captured in the tele shot of a Manly ferry about to berth.
Tricks of the Trade
There’s one thing of which you need to be aware: zoom lenses on digital cameras, when used at their telephoto extreme, need a bit of TLC if you are to get great shots.
The further you zoom out the more you need to keep the camera steady; a tripod is best, or lean on a fence or even a friendly shoulder.
It also helps to keep the shutter speed as short as possible, to avoid camera shake; if your camera has a Shutter Priority function, select a fast speed, say around 1/500 second. If you’re running out of shutter speeds, don’t be afraid to dial up the ISO setting to 200 or 400 … with modern cameras you’ll still get sharp, noise free prints.
Aim the camera’s auto exposure sensor carefully, preferably at a key part of the subject that is mid tone; don’t point it at a large white or dark object in the picture. The same lesson applies to auto focus – choose an element in the picture that is mid way in distance.
There’s another trap with the limited 3X zooms of compact digicams as well as the budget priced ‘kit lenses’ sold with DSLRs: as you zoom in you find your lens aperture shrinks. An f2.8 lens at the wide angle end of the zoom soon becomes an f3.5 lens at the telephoto end. Bingo! Your exposure needs to be twice as long.
13 Responses to “Stretching Out – Shooting With Longer Focal Lengths” - Add Yours
April 27th, 2009 at 1:07 am
Sorry to sound nooby. but what’s TLC?
April 27th, 2009 at 1:39 am
Ah, the Sydney ferries!
I’ve always found myself struggling to use teles as a compositional tool: I’m very much a wide-angle junkie. Hopefully this’ll get me out and about some more!
April 27th, 2009 at 5:06 am
I enjoy mounting my 85mm f/1.8 & 135mm f/2.0 to my 50D/5D Mark II as well as the 70-200 f/2.8 IS
The prespective of shooting a large group of people with a telephoto rather than 35-50 is pretty cool. The compression definately changes up the feel. example – 135mm f/2.0 on a 5D http://bit.ly/4vD0L
April 27th, 2009 at 8:13 am
“Sorry to sound nooby. but what’s TLC?”
TLC = Tender Loving Care. Its been around for a long time.
April 27th, 2009 at 8:14 am
TLC – Tender Loving Care. :D
April 27th, 2009 at 1:51 pm
It is not entirely accurate to say that a telephoto lens creates a shallower depth of field. The depth of field is inversely proportional to the focal length and proportional to subject distance. This means you can get a shallower depth of field be using a longer focal length or you can just move closer to your subject. So if you were to compose your subject the same way with a long and short focal length lens (ie the subject fills up the same amount of the frame, the depth of field will be the same in both shots. However you subject distance would be different between the two shots and thus the perspective would change (ie the relationship between the subject and the background would be different).
April 27th, 2009 at 8:56 pm
Haha, the Manly ferry. Worlds least unpleasant commute or cheapest harbour cruise, depending how you look at it.
I love the “flatness” a longer focal length creates, I find it useful for abstracting patterns (along with the narrow field of view). There’s something satisfying and somewhat “classic” about a well composed shot at a longer focal length.
April 27th, 2009 at 11:21 pm
Johnny beat me to the punch. Using a long telephoto or the long end of a zoom has nothing whatsoever to do with depth of field. It just so happens that most people compose differently when zooming in or using longer focal lengths. In fact, it just so happens that I addressed this point in my newsletter this week.
Anyone interested can sign up here.
April 28th, 2009 at 6:40 am
I love the compression effect. See e.g. my picture of Ginza
April 28th, 2009 at 7:44 am
JP Lumansoc is it really necessary to do that
all your comment amounted to was “look at me i have a lot of money to spend on cameras and lenses”
must the internet always resort to biggest dick contests..
April 28th, 2009 at 7:52 am
good general tip, but kind of a blanket statement.
I use the age old ‘rule’ of shutter speed has to be faster or as fast as focal length, to get a decent shot.
For example: zoomed out to 200mm, I should at least be using 1/200 shutter speed hand-held.
Also, holding technique is very helpful, too. If your lens is long, it’s a lot easier to stabilize the camera if you have on hand on the body (like normal) and the other holding the tip of the lens, towards the glass.
With my EF 70-200 F4L, I usually have my left hand on the hood and I’ve been able to ‘break’ the rule I stated above, shooting 1/80 sec as a 200mm focal length without IS and still get properly exposed, very sharp images.
April 28th, 2009 at 6:00 pm
Depth of field and compositon is always in the hand of Photographers own point of view. If we want good depth we all have different mechanisms and practices.
In this case long focal length is always difficcult to operate. This is a good example of how to use our focal lengths.
September 29th, 2009 at 7:21 am
@ Evan, that is how you decide to interpret it. would it have helped if I just said 85mm, 135 and 70-200? each lens on different bodies (crop/full frame) will give a different feel and compression. I’m not trying to show off as I really have nothing to gain by what equipment I use. So it isn’t fair that you judge me purely by how I say what I have. Example. A rebel with a 85mm and a full frame with a 135mm on it is supposed to be the same but it isn’t. the compression and what is in the frame is slightly different.
this is the photo I was talking about, my last link didn’t work.
http://jplumansoc.squarespace.com/photo-galleries/weddings/3222880
Sorry @Evan for making you think that I’m rich or whatever. I wish i was stacked but I’m not. my cameras are my life and I can’t work without them and I need quality and speed to make my job easier.
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