How To Photograph Lightning
ZAP! Learn how to take striking lightning images with this tutorial.
Being one of the most unpredictable forces of nature, lightning storms present a unique challenge for most photographers. We’ve all seen powerful photos of lightning in action and you may be wondering how you can capture the majesty of a storm the next time you’re fortunate (or unfortunate) enough to witness one. While a lot matters on what Mother Nature decides to do with all that electricity, the tips below should help in capturing a great shot of lightning.
- Use a steady surface – While a tripod typically works best, in reality any steady surface will work. Some people use a beanbag or other malleable item, like a pillow. This will be import as #2 is….
- Long Shutter Times – While lightning is unpredictable, it’s extremely hard to make a decent capture by tripping the shutter when you see a flash. There are some fancy remote controls that have the ability to trip when the flash is sensed, but I’m guessing you don’t want to invest in these types of gadgets. Depending on your cameras ability to manage noise on slow shutter speeds, using a timing of 30 seconds can work well. The bulb setting can also be handy if you have a way to keep the shutter open.
- Horizon Up – It’s safe to say most of the lightning action you will see will in the sky. I know it’s obvious, but it needs to be stated that your field of view will be skewed toward the sky then. Depending on how close the lightning is, you’ll be including more blank looking sky than normal. But fear not; that sky becomes far more exciting when the lightning starts
- But Include Something Interesting – While the action will be in the sky, don’t forget to keep something in the frame to give relevance and perspective to the shot. Buildings are a favorite, but really, anything that can give an idea of the size of the storm works well.
- Manual Focus – It’s best to use manual focus when shooting in lightning situations. Mainly because the view will probably be at night (but not always) with a fair amount of darkness. Rather than allow your camera to hunt around for something to focus on with each new shot, get a good manual focus on the sky and leave it there.
- Manual Shutter/Aperture Too – As mentioned in #2, if your camera has the ability to set the shutter speed, pick a long shutter time and a fairly wide aperture. The action will be far from you so a wide aperture and shallow depth of field won’t be a problem (unless you have some very near objects you’d like to include).
- Stack ‘em – If you can keep your camera in a steady spot, shot after shot, you can use stacking software to combine multiple strikes into one image. You’ll often have many unexciting shots with maybe just a single strike or faint action between clouds. These can all be combined to make a spectacular image.
- Be Patient – This is a big one and a key to success. Get familiar with your gear and settings so when there is a lightning storm you can set up the camera and then let it do its thing while you enjoy the show. You’re going to have a number of times when you miss “the shot” for one reason or another. Don’t sweat it.
Shooting lightning storms can be a very enjoyable experience but it takes a little practice to get it just right. Follow the steps above and you’ll be well on your way to creating electrifying photos (sorry, couldn’t resist the pun!).







49 Responses to “How To Photograph Lightning” - Add Yours
July 16th, 2009 at 2:34 am
I have always wanted to try photographing lighting, however we just don’t get weather here in san diego! very good tips though :)
July 16th, 2009 at 2:49 am
Great post. When I lived in Arizona and shot 35mm film I got many great images using these techniques. But there’s another way… a lightning trigger. It actually fires the shutter fast enough to catch a bolt of lightning. I don’t have one yet but my brother has used his with great success.
July 16th, 2009 at 2:50 am
Here’s a link: http://www.lightningtrigger.com/
July 16th, 2009 at 4:14 am
If you are using Canon Powershot, you can use motion detection scripts that work with CHDK.
The advantage of doing this that moving objects will not be smeared.
July 16th, 2009 at 5:57 am
Thanks a lot! Actually this post comes along just a few hours late because we had a great storm yesterday in the sky of southern Germany. But the next is to be expected for the weekend! I’ll have a go then.
July 16th, 2009 at 7:02 am
Shouldn’t there be a tip about being careful and about how to protect yourself against lightning strikes?
July 16th, 2009 at 12:10 pm
I got some pretty good shots of some lightning considering my camera doesn’t have the capability of keeping the shutter open for 30 seconds, the longest it can stay open is 4 seconds. I’ve figured out a way you can tipple that time. I put it on three round burst, and with each shot being 4 seconds; I now have a 12 second gap giving me a chance to catch some cool lightning. Having an ISO of 100, like if you were photographing fireworks, would work well too- Awesome post!
July 16th, 2009 at 1:26 pm
@Major Bokeh, do you know how much that lightning trigger cost ? Can find price on their website.
July 16th, 2009 at 5:29 pm
I was wondering too about any tips as to where one should be positioned so as to get a safe shot of the lightning without the risk of injury or any untoward incidents?
July 16th, 2009 at 10:19 pm
This sort of adds a sweet spot to bad weather – which is what we have been getting here in Munich, Germany this summer. :-)
July 16th, 2009 at 11:32 pm
I recently found a great way to photograph lightning without a specialised trigger. The trick is too use the remote such as Canon TC-80. When there is lightning, I set up my camer on a tripod and set the remote to fire consecutive shots in bulb mode with preset shutter to correctly expose for the background light. I then set it to take 150 pictures, go have tea, come back to see awsome results :) Ususally there are about 5-10 usable frames from the 150 shot.
an example can be seen here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/eldar/3726771724/
July 16th, 2009 at 11:37 pm
Great article. I live in Mimai, Florida the capital of Lighting. I’m going to try this next time we have lighting. I’ll keep you posted. Thank you for the tips.
July 17th, 2009 at 1:26 am
http://www.lightningsafety.noaa.gov/overview.htm
i understand that at least one needs to find faults in a post
so here is your safety tips a very small list
for a bigger and better one go to google and type lightning safety
i guess that common sense don’t exist any more
by the way good post thanks for the info i enjoy these type of nights sitting in a good storm makes for some interesting shots
July 17th, 2009 at 1:26 am
This is excellent.
I took some lightning photos.Take a look and please leave some comment:
1. http://www.flickr.com/photos/37626961@N06/3672006265/
2. http://www.flickr.com/photos/37626961@N06/3672005881/
3. http://www.flickr.com/photos/37626961@N06/3672005463/
4. http://www.flickr.com/photos/37626961@N06/3672813510/
July 17th, 2009 at 2:11 am
For safety, there are a wireless remote shutter releases, on eBay and elsewhere, that let you stay in a safe place while the camera does its job outdoors.
Regarding aperture, a wide aperture, as suggested in the article, lets you capture desired background illumination such as city lights, while a narrow aperture reduces undesired background such as the sky. Either one captures the lightning since it’s so bright.
July 17th, 2009 at 2:16 am
The price is in the link, just click on order and it shows.
July 17th, 2009 at 2:43 am
Nice article. I got this on the 4th. If the link works
July 17th, 2009 at 3:10 am
I have got a few lighting shots using that method.
Tripod and bulb setting on the Rebel XSi.
Try to determine the direction in which the storm is coming from. Set focus then keep your fingers crossed.
A lot of times one can get a local weather radar on the net to see the storms track than set the camera direction accordingly.
One has to keep safety in mind also. A close hit of a million volts or so will not do much good for the camera electronics. LOL, not much good for the photographer either.
I think a good lighting shot is more luck than anything.
July 17th, 2009 at 4:15 am
Can you post a link to download the Stacking Software to combine multiple strikes into one image or name any such software.
July 17th, 2009 at 6:43 am
just get a Casio EX-F1 … and u don’t have to wait… first time i tried it on lightning i got about 3-4 good pictures on the same lightning bolt… just need to turn the camera fast enough to catch it (hand held) … focus to infinity and set it at 40 fps .. shutter speed 1/60, ISO 100, aperture whatever :P …
July 17th, 2009 at 6:43 am
If you have a canon camera, CHDK could be used and the Motion Detection Script can be used. Once a change of light is sensed it shoots. I’ll let a picture taken just to test the script. The composition is awful, but the lightning was caught perfectly. Regards and thank you for the tips.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/aavzqz/3719812927/
July 17th, 2009 at 7:38 am
Nice post. I live in Texas and we have some great storms in the spring and fall. There are 2 things I would have liked for you to have covered. When I’m out taking photos of lightning it’s raining. How do you stay dry and most importatly is doing it safe. I’ve had some close calls and standing next to and holding a lightning rod in my camera and tripod is not a good idea. My wife thinks I’m crazy for going out taking photos during a storm.
July 17th, 2009 at 8:50 am
I found that if I had a fairly wide aperture, the lightning bolt came out over exposed, and I had more success using a small one and manualy holding the shutter open until the lightning flashed. Ialso used timer but Murphy’s law applied, the lightning flashed after it activated. I also used a low ISO (100). I guess the downfall is with a small aperture and ISO is that the foreground comes out as siluet, unless a very long time is used. I have only had one oportunity to photograph lightning since getting my 400D and the best was over by the time I got my gear out, set up, and worked out the best settings, nature wouldn’t co-operate again for me after that.
Any thoughts?
July 17th, 2009 at 3:40 pm
And then on that rare occasion you just press the shutter. I happened on July 4 at 7:30 in the morning. It was the third shot and the last shot of the day.
July 17th, 2009 at 3:41 pm
Check out the photo at my web site…
July 17th, 2009 at 4:07 pm
This is a wonderful article! I have a Sony A200 (No fancy Nikons for me yet!) and I reckon I might be able to do the job with it. I think I will be able to get a wide aperture on manual with the slower shutter speed.
No doubt there’s going to be a lot of lightning in Phuket when I go but I think I’d like to stay indoors or be in a good vantage point so I don’t risk the camera getting wet. Anyone got ideas about covers I can get? I’ll probably only need a cheap one that does the job.
Oh and another thing; how could I stop the lens and lcd screen from fogging up in the humid temperatures of Phuket and Kuala Lumper?
July 17th, 2009 at 4:23 pm
Thanks
the monsoon is just here at Asia pacific, will b worth trying
July 17th, 2009 at 5:30 pm
Good article, thanks.
As well as safety, another tip might be to shoot from some kind of shelter so you don’t get water in your gear if it rains. If you have no choice other than to be in the open a collapsible beach shelter or 2-man tent could be a good solution.
BTW the new Olympus E-620 DSLR can shoot multiple exposures. I wonder what kind of result you could get in a lightning storm with one of those…
July 17th, 2009 at 6:50 pm
Hi, good post, and some good comments above. Seems to be an interesting discussion around wide vs. narrow aperture…
I used a tripod (legs fully collapsed for maximum stability) and set it on the windowsill with the window open as the storm passed overhead.
My Canon 400D (with 18-55mm kit lens!) was set to manual focus (infinity), f/5.6 and ISO 100. I switched on noise reduction, which slowed down processing time after each shot, but it was worth it. I also had it set on BULB and I tried to time it so that I opened the shutter between strikes in the hope of picking up some ambient light and then catching the next strike.
These were the best of the bunch. Both were single shots with minimal post processing in Photoshop – just a crop to remove the edge of my house.
What do we reckon?
http://mamalan.deviantart.com/art/The-Passing-Storm-108204643
http://mamalan.deviantart.com/art/The-Passing-Storm-2-108326281
July 17th, 2009 at 10:12 pm
I read this article yesterday and got to put its teachings to use sooner than I expected as one of the first lightning storms this summer decided to come for visit during the very same evening. Got this photo out of it: lightning at sunset
July 18th, 2009 at 8:28 am
Yay! Florida summers certainly have their share of lightning, finally somthing to be happy about, lol! Great article, I’m totally trying this. Thanks!
July 19th, 2009 at 8:13 am
LOL I wish that I had this on Thursday the 16. Lots of lightning and was able to get one strike. This will come in handy the next time we have a storm
July 19th, 2009 at 12:21 pm
I set my camera on bulb and place a piece of card stock painted black over the end of the lens and remove it when the lightning strikes. Works very well…..just have to be quick. You can also use it to place several strikes on one frame.
July 20th, 2009 at 4:23 pm
I took some lightning photos almost a year ago. I kinda self discovered how to get them right – and now I am glad to see that I wasn’t too far off in my approach – here are my photos and some comments on how I did it:
http://blog.gadodia.net/silver-lining-in-the-cloud-taking-lightning-photos/
July 20th, 2009 at 4:54 pm
CAn’t wait for the next lightning storm. I guess I simply need a good and dry spot for the shots and a remote shutter too. Thanks for the post.
July 23rd, 2009 at 7:52 pm
Interesting. Thanks for the advice. There has been a bit of thunder and lightening over the last few weeks in London.
July 23rd, 2009 at 8:46 pm
I presume a neutral density filter would help with reducing over-exposure when working with those slow shutter speeds? Can anyone with experience of ND filters and shooting lightening please confirm?
July 23rd, 2009 at 9:18 pm
Very useful tips. Monsoon season is upon us in Phoenix, AZ. A great time for dramatic lightning! I will use the tips you shared. Thanks!
July 27th, 2009 at 9:52 am
Great Photographs, I managed to get some on holiday a couple of years ago, will post later.
July 29th, 2009 at 7:36 pm
If you are that serious about photographing lightning ya gotta buy a lightning trigger. Hands down the best investment I have ever made. It works great, especially with the almost impossible to photograph daytime lightning. I haven’t uploaded any shots from this summers storms yet, but check out my website to see some of my results, especially when I was on vacation in Aruba !
http://www.brianduddy.com/g/weather
August 7th, 2009 at 4:22 am
Hey everyone! I found the best way is to put it on a tripod and shoot continuously. I had my shutter at 2 seconds, aperture at 5.6, and ISO at lowest setting… the night i was shooting the lighting was going off fairly often, so leaving it pointed at one spot I was able to get a few good ones… please feel free to email me comments… BEN-236@comcast.net… thanks!
-Ben
August 7th, 2009 at 1:41 pm
Great article… I just took some shots tonight using a Nikon D300 with a remote set to Bulb. As I held the remote down keeping the shutter open… great lightning show in the sky. But when I close the shutter… not all the lightning show appeared in photo. Why am I missing the great lightning show? At what point should I close the shutter?
I am shooting at iso 200 f22 using a 12-24mm wide angle lens.
August 7th, 2009 at 10:31 pm
Here is an old chrome overlooking Lake Caloosa from the 70s
http://jobobarikan.deviantart.com/art/Evening-Storm-on-Lake-Caloosa-41698503
August 15th, 2009 at 7:13 am
Great tips, and the photos in the post are just stunning!
Jennifer Moore
JenniferLynn Productions, LLC
August 18th, 2009 at 12:48 am
There’s a less expensive Lightning Trigger available on eBay right now. It’s getting lots of great reviews.
August 20th, 2009 at 2:53 am
Now why didn’t I open up my email weeks ago. LOL .. I just returned from a summer roadtrip through AZ, NM and TX. Witnessed beautiful thunderstorms. Didn’t get a single good “still” shot. But did get some interesting video.
September 10th, 2009 at 6:18 am
Anyone ever try using a film camera? I have an old Minolta Maxxum 5. It seems like any rich person can pick up a Cannon rebel x, make a flickr account, and call them selves a photographer. Personally i think that’s crap, I don’t call my self a photographer, i just know how to set my camera to the right settings and get good shots. Not none of this pre set crap. I’m just expressing my opinion on today’s photograph, i think it’s crap!
If anyone agrees, and is a film user as well, reply!!!
Oh and i do have some lighting shots that i took a couple of weeks ago, they came out decent, what a love about film photography is the trial and error process. Not like today if your shot comes out bad, just erase it and try again. I think those people are lazy.
Thanks for reading
-Ricky
January 2nd, 2010 at 12:46 pm
Great lightning shots and thanks for the tips. Now, what about the full moon? How do you capture what you see when there is a full moon. My moon shots don’t seem to work.
January 2nd, 2010 at 8:17 pm
When you say “don’t seem to work” I am guessing that the moon is too small in the photo. That’s because your brain tricks you when you look at it and sort of enlarges it in comparison to the background. To make it look like other photos you see, you need a really long lens for the photo or you need to insert the moon in your “normal” photo and make it larger using the transform tool or whatever you use. Also, the moon is really bright in a night scene, so doing a longish exposure of, say, a church at night, the moon is much brighter than the floodlighting so will be burned out, hence the need for inserting a well exposed shot of the moon afterwards. ALSO again, things in the sky are moving, and even an exposure of 5 seconds or so will show stellar / lunar motion.
Richard
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