How to Hold a Digital Camera
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One of the common problems that many new digital (and film) photographers have is ‘camera shake’ where images seem blurry – usually because the camera was not held still enough while the shutter was depressed. This is especially common in shots taken in low light situations where the shutter is open for longer periods of time. Even the smallest movement of the camera can cause it and the only real way to eliminate it is with a tripod.
Adding to camera shake is a technique that is increasingly common with digital camera users of holding the camera at arms length away from them as they take shots – often with one hand. While this might be a good way to frame your shot the further away from your body (a fairly stable thing) you hold the camera the more chance you have of swaying or shaking as you take your shot.
Tripods are the best way to stop camera shake because they have three sturdy legs that keep things very still – but if you don’t have one then another simple way to enhance the stability of the camera is to hold onto it with two hands.
While it can be tempting to shoot one handed a two hands will increase your stillness (like three legs on a tripod being better than one).
Exactly how you should grip your camera will depend upon what type of digital camera you are using and varies from person to person depending upon preference. There is no real right or wrong way to do it but here’s the technique that I generally use:
- Use your right hand to grip the right hand end of the camera. Your forefinger should sit lightly above the shutter release, your other three fingers curling around the front of the camera. Your right thumb grips onto the back of the camera. Most cameras these days have some sort of grip and even impressions for where fingers should go so this should feel natural. Use a strong grip with your right hand but don’t grip it so tightly that you end up shaking the camera. (keep in mind our previous post on shutter technique – squeeze the shutter don’t jab at it).
- The positioning of your left hand will depend upon your camera but in in general it should support the weight of the camera and will either sit underneath the camera or under/around a lens if you have a DSLR.
- If you’re shooting using the view finder to line up your shot you’ll have the camera nice and close into your body which will add extra stability but if you’re using the LCD make sure you don’t hold your camera too far away from you. Tuck your elbows into your sides and lean the camera out a little from your face (around 30cm). Alternatively use the viewfinder if it’s not too small or difficult to see through (a problem on many point and shoots these days).
- Add extra stability by leaning against a solid object like a wall or a tree or by sitting or kneeling down. If you have to stand and don’t have anything to lean on for extra support put your feet shoulder width apart to give yourself a steady stance. The stiller you can keep your body the stiller the camera will be.
Gripping a camera in this way will allow you flexibility of being able to line up shots quickly but will also help you to hold still for the crucial moment of your shutter being open.
Another quick bonus tip – before you take your shot take a gentle but deep breath, hold it, then take the shot and exhale. The other method people use is the exact opposite – exhale and before inhaling again take the shot. It’s amazing how much a body rises and falls simply by breathing – being conscious of it can give you an edge.
Of course each person will have their own little techniques that they are more comfortable with and ultimately you need to find what works best for you – but in the early days of familiarizing yourself with your new digital camera it’s worth considering your technique.
One last note – this post is about ‘holding a camera’ in a way that will help eliminate camera shake. It’s not rocket science – but it’s amazing how many people get it wrong and wonder why their images are blurry.
There are of course many other techniques for decreasing camera shake that should be used in conjunction with the way you hold it. Shutter speed, lenses with image stabilization and of course tripods can all help – we’ll cover these and more in future posts.
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71 Responses to “How to Hold a Digital Camera” - Add Yours
November 23rd, 2007 at 1:16 am
I definitely agree! I have actually given up taken photos in low light conditions if I have forgotten my tripod. It just doesn’t pay off. I have tried everything to keep my arms still as I am holding the camera; to no avail. It only takes a small movement for it to show up on camera.
I find it difficult to take my tripod everywhere and remember to set it up. If there was a way to take it and it not be so bulky or cumbersome, that would me wonderful. Having the EOS Rebel XT gives me a bit more room to place my hands; but of course a bit heavier than the small camera’s.
November 23rd, 2007 at 1:49 am
I’ll add two little tricks I use:
Setting the self timer can help to eliminate any movement from pressing the shutter release.
In addition to leaning against something it can be even more effective to press the camera directly against something to stabilize it.
November 23rd, 2007 at 2:14 am
I agree with the self timer, but only if your on a tripod I use that when I shot fireworks down at a local park… If you have a remote that negates the need to do this though
November 23rd, 2007 at 2:21 am
That, and use shutter that’s faster than the current focal lenght of your lens, but don’t go less that 1/60 while not on a tripod.
I myself prefer at least 1/80 or 1/100 for not moving subjects.
November 23rd, 2007 at 5:19 am
As breathing goes, the trick I use (and from what I understand a lot of police/military snipers use) is to inhale, start exhaling, then stop about halfway out, snap, finish exhaling.
November 23rd, 2007 at 8:55 am
With my point-and-shoot camera I find it’s essential to keep my elbows in tight. I used to hold them out wide (when not using the viewfinder) which resulted in many a blurry photo.
I also use the “hold my breath” trick, especially for macro shots without a tripod.
November 23rd, 2007 at 9:54 am
I typically shoot in burst mode, all 3 images cant be bad..?
November 23rd, 2007 at 11:02 am
@Jamie: I was about to say something very similar – when I learned to shoot in the army, that’s exactly the technique we were taught.
There are a number of parallels between shooting a photo and shooting a target, but one of the most important (and mentioned in the post) is to not ’slap’ the shutter (or trigger, as the case may be).
November 24th, 2007 at 2:09 am
I usually follow Graeme Smith’s technique. this is one of the best ways to avoide camera shake. i usually use 2 seconds of self timer.
November 24th, 2007 at 3:24 am
I purchased a Nikon hand strap for the right hand side of the camera and it has been great for me for stability and carrying.
This is an explanation from their site;
“The Nikon SLR Hand Strap wraps comfortably around your hand for added security and reduced fatigue. Attaches quickly and securely to the camera body using the camera’s ¼-20 female tripod socket and the camera’s right-side neck-strap eyelet. The Hand Strap adjusts easily for a perfect fit.”
It is available on their website Nikon USA, click on the Nikon Mall.
November 24th, 2007 at 5:43 am
I don’t bother taking night shots anymore unless I have my tripod with me. I recently bought the Gorillapod, and fortunately, it is small enough that it folds up nice and small into my backpack, and comes with me almost wherever I go. On top of using the tripod, I also set it to use the 10second timer, as I found that if you’re on delicate footing with the tripod, it can still shudder slightly… and that’s really accentuated in 30 second exposures.
November 24th, 2007 at 9:22 am
I use that same military technique as well, and I cannot stress enough how important it is to practice practice practice. I usually shoot at night with a very open prime lens, right down to an F1.4 and using high ISO settings, but when I want more depth of field and I am without my tripod, I still find myself taking steady shots at up to half a second or so. A fun way to get in that practice is to get yourself into nightclubs and shoot in there (if you are old enough – or like that environment) and it’s also a great place to work on rear sync flash play.
November 24th, 2007 at 9:45 pm
I have another problem with camera shake… I have been an asthmatic for a number of years and using the drugs for this has caused me to have “less than steady” hands… I have to make sure I breathe [or not] and always try and keep my shutterspeed up… When this isn’t possible, I have the Canon remote – it’s my best friend!.. :)
November 25th, 2007 at 12:18 am
okay good post.
Tip: bump up iso, and try to get shutter speed 1.6 times the current focal length. So if you are shooting at 50mm minimum acceptable shutter speed is 1/80
November 26th, 2007 at 6:43 am
I do a few different things (at risk of repetition).. if its a shot I just HAVE to get, I will:
1. Breathe in, not all the way, but most of the way, and hold.
2. Press the camera firmly against my face while holding it with two hands, while my left elbow (the lens holding arm) is firmly pressed against my chest or side(your head is alot more stable than your arms.. trust me on this) but not too hard; you start to shake because of the resistance your counter-acting muscles have to put out
3. Self timers significantly help eliminate shake from the gripping action your fingers must do to push the shutter button, also because you dont have to think about keeping the camera still WHILE moving and loosening your hand grip… I say always always use a timer, enough time to get still.
4. If theres a table, or a door threshold or something of a similar stable nature, press the camera firmly up against this type of support. I’ve gotten pictures of a half second with success on occasion using door thresholds and support beams. Although I’ve never tested to see how long I could really go, it works.
So that’s my system.. if one isnt enough, add another step.. if all 4 dont work.. tripod! lol
November 26th, 2007 at 9:10 pm
Nice Tips. I would however prefer using two hands rather than a tripod, as taking a tripod everywhere isn’t feasible. Also, tripods can be used only in situations where you have planned a photograph, and not in any situation. So practicing holding your camera with two hands gives you near-tripod perfection.
November 26th, 2007 at 11:59 pm
thanks for bringing the subject to the photographers’eyes and hands. i am the prey particularly with d-cameras, that comes to know when the photo is enlarged. i tried every method but tripod is the only solution for me – very difficult to carry on for general photography.
a fair point for blur may be it is on the hand grip of camera, which doesn’t give solid support.
better placement at least for the shutter release button would be on the top of the camera body, near mode dial so the weight rests on the solid body of the camera for prosumer and DSLR cameras. i think 50% of the problem would be solved by this method.
the problem will remain with smaller/compact cameras having only 115 to 200gms of weight whether the release is on the top of the body. so if the shutter release is set on the top of prosumer and DSLRs, the owners of these cameras may be benefitted. since in my opinion, if u get a blurry pic shoot, not to shoot at all because of post frustration/ or compulsory use tripod (god forbid in how many circumstances). thanks.
November 28th, 2007 at 7:59 pm
From what I am reading, having a battery grip (at least for the Rebel XT) is suppose to help stabilize the camera a little better. Especially in portrait style shots. For those that have a battery grip, do you find this to be the case??
November 30th, 2007 at 6:31 pm
Will Battery grip help?
December 3rd, 2007 at 3:52 am
I find that when using a long lens, I hold the camera in my right hand and push down gently while supporting the lens with my left hand and pushing UP gently. Gives nice addes support.
December 24th, 2007 at 10:17 am
Great tips, but I wish the proper way to hold a camera while taking vertical or portrait orientated would have been discussed. I see too many people, including professionals, holding the camera with the shutter release on top. NO! The proper, most stable position for hand holding is with the shutter release on the BOTTOM, such that you can still tuck in your elbows. Pass the word, we need to break this trend!
See: http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/guides/technique/handholding1.html
April 14th, 2008 at 4:16 am
Nobody has mentioned camera bean bags. They are light as a feather, attach easily to your camera bag, and have proven to work for upto 20-30s exposures for me in low light.
Obviously, they are not suitable for hand-held street photography, but for dark interiors and shots after sunset where is make sense composition-wise to sit the camera down rather than hold it, they present a nice option.
July 21st, 2008 at 4:03 am
I have never seen a camera bean bag. Where can you purchase one?
August 4th, 2008 at 1:16 am
Blu tac wrapped in plastic in your pocket is cool if you’re too lazy to carry a tripod, otherwise buy a tiny 3 inch tripod – metal or plastic. They aren’t such a joke if you use them with a 2 second timer set up and touch the shutter, then get your hands off, and they’re good for bracing on trees/signposts and other places you don’t want to stuff your camera.
October 5th, 2008 at 3:43 pm
Jayce asked about battery grips. Generally, a heavier camera will be steadier than a lighter camera, up to the point where the weight causes fatigue and more shakes. My Canon 30D is a lot steadier than my Canon S3 IS and especially the almost-pocket-sieze Canon 570 IS. Also, a battery grip moves the center of mass of the camera+lens back a bit, making the system less nose-heavy and easier to hold. This is especially helpful with longer zooms, like my Canon 70-200mm f/4L. A battery grip can also make a DSLR easier to hold if you have large hands. I cannot hold the Canon Digital Rebel cameras very easily, so I needed the xxD series. Even then, my pinky is UNDER the camera without the battery grip.
Those who use lightweight cameras have lots of options to help steady the camera, like the Joby Gorillapods and Pedco’s UltraPods. (The latter are especially trim. lightweight and easier to use than the frustratingly-flexible Gorillapods.)
December 31st, 2008 at 4:32 am
An alternate grip, perhaps works best for lefties, by Joe McNally:
http://www.joemcnally.com/blog/2008/03/10/da-grip/
Video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDsx3-FWfwk
February 10th, 2009 at 5:27 am
I usually shoot with the right eye, but using the technique that Scott points out I have successfully shot as slow as 1/8 sec handheld. I really recommend you try it for yourselves.
February 13th, 2009 at 3:12 am
I was doubtful at first about the link Scott posted above:
http://www.joemcnally.com/blog/2008/03/10/da-grip/
But I pulled out the camera and tried it out – and there was a lot less shake. I am not sure I would use it all the time, but it did make the camera a lot steadier.
One other trick I use is to wrap my elbow with my shoulder strap. I adjusted it so that if I hold it at arms length I can get it under my elbow. When I bend and tuck my elbow in, it pulls really tight and just cranks the camera into my hand / arm / elbow and sort of immobilizes the lot of them.
There is also locking the shutter up – my Nikon has a one second delay (this only works if you have a stationary subject) so it raises the shutter, then waits a second, then activates the sensor. Supposed to cut down on the vibration of the shutter slamming open.
Another thing I don’t know if anyone mentioned, is take a few shots. That way you have a selection to go through, and while one may have some shake, chances are some won’t.
A question though: I’ve read that turning off VR when on a tripod is good idea – the theory is that it will actually cause a small shake when there is none… Any truth to that?
Thanks!
February 13th, 2009 at 7:07 am
I was interested to read the different methods people use to stop camera shake while out and about in the field without their tripod, and wondered if anyone has tried the piece of string trick. Ok, stop laughing, it really works, I have done this in a couple of ways, 1. make a loop in a piece of string and put the loop around your camera lens, right at the back of the lens so it won’t catch on anything, have the string long enough to reach the floor, then put your foot on the string and pull up on the camera until it goes tight, you my have to re-adjust the length a little until you get it right, 2. get a male tripod screw fit it to the tripod mount screw hole in your camera and tie the string to that.
February 13th, 2009 at 2:19 pm
Re: chiefblueass:
That’s an old trick. I first learned it at a Nikon School in Los Angeles in 1978. They suggested using a sash chain and had a supplier who made a device with the chain. (The chain has the advantage of a very high spring constant, which means that any vibrations will be very high frequency. A nylon cord, on the other hand, will “bounce” at a frequency right in the range of shutter speeds.) Kirk enterprises has a bit more sophisticated device, the Strap Pod that you can get with a 1/4-20 screw or a Kirk QR clamp.
February 18th, 2009 at 7:43 am
I intend to carry my camera around on travels with minimal gear and paraphernalia.
I am surprised no body mentioned the size of camera vs size of your hands / palms I found a huge difference in how a largeer camera sat in my small little hands it was heavy and cumbersome. On the other hand, a small light camera felt “absent” in my hands, so I chose to get the in-between body
LOL – I gave up many fancy features so that the camera would feel right, now I just need to keep using the same body till it feels natural for me.
February 18th, 2009 at 9:17 am
Re: jagdish, size of camera
Jagdish is right: the size and weight of the camera are important. I have problems with the Canon Digital Rebel series because I have large hands (vice jadgish’s small hands). I chose the Canon 30D (the 20D, 40D & 50D are the same size) PLUS the battery grip. (I remove the battery grip when I use the camera with a collared long lens on a tripod plus ballhead or gimbal mount so that it’s easier to balance.)
Re: gopalshroti, placement of shutter release
Alas, your suggestion doesn’t make good ergonomic sense, as it would require stretching the forefinger away from the hand. That would lead to greater muscle tension and greater shake. You want the shutter release where your forefinger naturally falls when holding the camera. For cameras with “grips,” that’s on the top of the handhold, like the Canon DSLRs, not near the “mode dial,” which is on the LEFT side of Canon cameras. Canon (and, from what I’ve seen, Nikon) DSLRs are designed so that controls you use a lot are right where your fingers naturally fall: shutter release and the dial used to select exposure (e.g., aperture in aperture priority mode) where your right forefinger falls; the main “spin” dial where your thumb falls (it’s used to set exposure compensation, most of the time); the “joystick” (used to select the autofocus point) just above it and the exposure lock and autofocus buttons just to the right of the joystick. (This is also a selling point for the Canon superzoom cameras–S3 IS, S5 IS, and the SX series. They’re much easier to hold than most point-and-shoot cameras.)
Re: Benjamin, holding in vertical mode:
Interesting point, with some validity, at least hypothetically.
However, when I tried it that way, the shake increased by at least two stops. The reason, I suspect, is that my hand is at a really bad angle, with the wrist fully bent back. There is a lot of muscle tension, which translates into shake. I also found it difficult to press the shutter release without the camera moving. I teach riding (dressage) and one vital principle is for the rider to keep her/his hands in a “neutral” position. That allows maximum flexibility and minimum tension. The position you describe is about the most “non-neutral” possible. I suspect that’s why you see pros doing it the “standard” way. It’s certainly possible to keep one’s elbows in with the shutter release on top. Flopping the wrist over that way (flexing, I think) does not require much muscular effort. (That’s the way my right hand was all the time for a couple of weeks after an injury to my radial nerve.) With your right elbow close to your body, lift your right hand up to just above your eye level. You’ll find that the wrist naturally falls as it would holding the camera. Now, do the same with your hand below your chin. It STILL naturally falls the same way, the OPPOSITE way from holding the camera.
Even better, though, is to use a battery grip that has the vertical mode controls on the lower right corner. It’s not as comfortable as holding the camera in landscape/horizontal mode, but a lot better than twisting your wrist either way.
February 25th, 2009 at 5:30 am
This post should really be called “How To Hold A Digital SLR Camera”, now we are going to see all the tourists holding their point n shoots like that!
March 10th, 2009 at 10:06 am
@ Jaime and @ cam
lol I was thinking the same thing. I use the same techniques I learned in the army: breathing, don’t anticipate the shot, don’t slap the ‘trigger’. The most useful technique that has carried over is wrapping the strap around my wrist once or twice. It has prevented a few nasty drops of the camera. Plus, I’m usually taking pictures of my kids playing so my camera is normally set to shoot in ‘3 round bursts’.
March 24th, 2009 at 5:41 pm
Here is I consider the best way by Joe McNally – Da Grip in youtube. you have to check it out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDsx3-FWfwk&feature=channel_page
March 24th, 2009 at 5:55 pm
But for me personally I like to use my right hand’s fourth and five th finger to cross grip tight my left hand’s fourth and five th finger for using medium and small size lens.
March 31st, 2009 at 5:19 pm
For me its all about the strap. I used to wrap it around my hand so it fit perfectly, but over time and tons of jobs, it started getting a bit carpel tunnelish. Then I switched to using having the strap attach to the back of my elbow running the length of my forearm. it works like a charm and helps offset the weight of the camera if you have to hold it for long periods of time. Just my experience. :-)
April 6th, 2009 at 2:04 am
In my experience I discovered that different lenses require different grab for stability… for example several new Nikon lenses have zoom ring at the top of the lens, making it hard to grab lens at it’s core… making this kind of combo quite unstable.
April 8th, 2009 at 4:50 am
Breath control is just as criticle to a photographer as it is to a target shooter. As a taget shooter we are taught to take several deep breaths to build up the oxygen in our blood. The last one we exhale partially and hold. You have about eight seconds before you can notice your eyesight changing and loosing the abillity to control anything rock solid. When you are holding rock solid and you’re breath too, notice the movement in the camera in time with your heart beat. This of coarse is an extreem explanation not meant to scare anyone but just to make you aware, mostly when using slow shutter speeds. One more variable for the argument of carrying a tripod.
April 10th, 2009 at 1:22 pm
When I was younger, my grandfather showed me a good way to keep a rifle from wobbling when shooting something (this is obviously very important for getting accurate shots), and I later applied it to photography. If you anchor the elbow of your left arm against your chest/ribs, you can get a much more stable shot. Also, breathing comes into play, but that’s already been talked about here.
May 1st, 2009 at 9:38 pm
THank you so much.. It’s one of the problems i’m actually facing. You’re site is a great help for beginners like me. Thank you. God bless you, Sir.
May 9th, 2009 at 9:58 pm
A comment on this:
” – before you take your shot take a gentle but deep breath, hold it, then take the shot and exhale. The other method people use is the exact opposite – exhale and before inhaling again take the shot. It’s amazing how much a body rises and falls simply by breathing – being conscious of it can give you an edge.”
Try this: ..
take a gentle but deep breath, half exhale and hold it, then take the shot and … (same as when shooting..)
HG
May 27th, 2009 at 5:06 pm
Sometimes I’ll go as far as to finding a platform to rest the camera on while I press the shutter release button. I’m not fond of using my tripod because I find it too restricting, so I’m always forced to find other creative ways to combat camera shake.
It’s interesting now that I have a high res digital slr, how picky I’ve become: on prints made from film, most of what I shot looked sharp, but with my 5D they often look fine until I zoom in and view the detail full size… ouch!! lol
July 17th, 2009 at 12:33 am
I have read from ProBlogger that this is one post that made DPS rise to fame. I just want to see how simple and how basic it is and how it connected to the readers so I can copy it and do it in my own site. Thanks Darren for the inspiration!
August 5th, 2009 at 12:04 pm
Thanks for the great tips on holding the camera steady. My husband and I took several courses in the ’80’s on photography – basic, close-up and darkroom. But when I got a Nikon cool pix – I found that, because there was no viewfinder and I couldn’t hold it up and use my forehead etc. to stabilize the camera, my older, shakier hands sometimes just could not hold it steady enough by using the LCD screen. We have since invested in a Canon A590 and a Canon Rebel DSLR and are now taking great blur-free pictures again. So many of the smaller point and shoots actually do not have viewfinders – they only have the LCD panel to use to frame your shots.
August 14th, 2009 at 2:24 am
Better you take a normal breath, exhale about half was (this will slow the heart rate) then squeexe of the shot…just like shooting a firearm! IT REALLY WORKS WELL! T.C.
August 17th, 2009 at 3:58 pm
Low light photography is indeed a challenge.
September 7th, 2009 at 3:01 pm
Hi,
one technoque that i have found useful in reducing shakes is the ’string-pod’.
This is quite a simple yet and effective way to reduce shakes and blurs. All it needs is a screw that fits into the tripod mount under your camera, a strong nylon cord that is tied to it and small metal attachment ( any metal piece the size of your palm or smaller) at the other end that you can step on and hold with your feet. The cord is essentially the length from your toes to the height at which you hold your camera. So when you screw one the bolt into your camera and hod the other end with your foot, the tension in the string eliminates the up and down movement of the camera. Now all you need to worry about is the left to right shake…
It can carried in your pocket very easily and gives great results.
October 12th, 2009 at 1:22 pm
wich is the world best slr digital camera use for portrait and as well as fashionphotography. please give good suggest………..
November 6th, 2009 at 9:08 pm
I have a Panasonic TZ7, a point and shoot, and a very good one. To steady my camera I use the straps from my small camera bag. Either put both your hands through the strap and hold the camera as usual – the straps will be around the front of your wrists – and push against the straps to steady the camera or, even better, hold the camera as usual and hook both your thumbs behind the straps, you will find the camera bag lies neatly under the camera and again you can brace your hands nicely against the pull of the straps, which in my case, as I am right handed, passes under my right shoulder behind my back and over my left. Your body is then bracing the camera very nicely. This is a similar technique that many photographers used with their SLRs and small cameras that had straps attached to either side; of course with one’s eye against the viewfinder, the head also was a point of stability. Most point and shoots only have one attachment point, and not many can be used in their cases.
November 16th, 2009 at 12:55 pm
A comment on this:
” – before you take your shot take a gentle but deep breath, hold it, then take the shot and exhale. The other method people use is the exact opposite – exhale and before inhaling again take the shot. It’s amazing how much a body rises and falls simply by breathing – being conscious of it can give you an edge.”
Try this: ..
take a gentle but deep breath, half exhale and hold it, then take the shot and … (same as when shooting..)
I do agree it’s like shooting a rile… but iepends what you’re shooting. Timing might not always work out that way in photography. For example – sports, wildlife…etc.
Great post!
November 21st, 2009 at 5:28 am
#4 Add extra stability by leaning against a solid object, seems like a no brainer but I really need to start doing this. I have taken so many fuzzy shots of my little girl because when I bend down I have little to no balance. Awesome tips!
November 21st, 2009 at 6:24 am
I hold the DSLR upside down.
It looks silly and weird, yes… but it frees up my nose from wetting the monitor screen and navigation buttons.
I just flip the images on the computer.
I used to do this on FILM which didn’t require any adjustment.
November 24th, 2009 at 3:53 am
Great tips for beginners as well as those still getting blurry photos
December 6th, 2009 at 3:35 am
Well everyone’s brought up all my favorite tips – even the “string-pods” (and I was taught that a chain is better too) – except this one, unless I missed it : Sit or lay down if you can!
Anytime you lower your center of gravity, you’re less likely to sway as long as you’re in a stable position. I can’t hold still while squatting very well, but if I sit my butt on the ground and plant my feet in front of me, I can lean my forearms against my knees and brace myself quite steady. Likewise when laying down in the “prone” position (think “sniper in the grass”) you can brace yourself with your elbows – or even better, use a camera bag or your rolled-up coat as a “bean bag” in this position.
I’ve actually practiced shooting as slow and still as I can with low shutter speeds… I have a Nikon D80 with a battery grip which fits my large hands nicely, and the bulky weight of it actually helps me to hold it still. (Remember basic physics : A body at rest tends to stay at rest… and the heavier that body is, the more force it takes to move it.) With a combination of bracing myself, breath control, and basically just going “Zen” as I begin to squeeze the shutter release – I’ve been able to shoot waterfalls at 1/8 to 1/10 and get nice results.
Of course, down-on-the-ground is not always the vantage point you’ll want – and if you’ve got arthritis like me, there’s always the added pain of having to get back up again…
December 15th, 2009 at 6:16 am
Don’t forget to shoot more than once. It is better when you have the option for several shots while holding the button pressed.
December 18th, 2009 at 3:18 am
I totally agree about the whole breathing thing, it’s amazing how much breathing can really affect your photography.
December 18th, 2009 at 5:42 am
For most of us (can be an age thing…) our hearts beat slower when we are breathing/have breathed out than when we’re breathing/have breathed in. A second of time where our blood isn’t going to pulse out and more our hands. Takes a lot of timing thought/awareness. I try to do this as often as possible because I have a tremor and any little bit helps.
December 19th, 2009 at 3:23 am
great replies to this post with valid points, but I fail to see anyone refer to the actual stance of your lower half of your body…legs, feet ,hips etc all play a major part in your balance and stability anyone with training in boxing and martial arts can relate to the importance of stance.
merry xmas to all.
December 21st, 2009 at 3:50 am
Five years ago I was diagnosed with recurrent Breast Cancer. This time the cancer was under my right shoulder blade. The tumor encapsulated the arties and nerves going to my right arm and hand and after treatment left my right hand with little dexterity and no feeling. And a right arm that feels like it does when you have laid on it all night and cut the blood flow off. Since there are no cameras available with left hand controls. I was afraid that I would never be able to use a camera without the use of a tripod. I can grip with my right hand but have to be careful of not dropping things because of the lack of feeling. I cannot however trip the shutter release. The solution I came up with was to hold the camera with my right hand. Wrap my left hand underneath the bottom of the camera bottom and lens and use the index finger of my left hand to trip the shutter release. By keeping my elbows against my sides this method creates a very stable platform for handheld shooting.
December 25th, 2009 at 1:55 am
No-one mentioned MONOPODS> Are they not helpful? I carry my camera around on a light weight monopod and drop the leg when I wish to shoot. What’s the problem there?? Bob
December 26th, 2009 at 5:47 am
@robert maloney:
Monopods can certainly be very useful. However, the article is about how to HOLD a camera–i.e., to handhold it. The article and comments don’t cover the myriad other devices one might use to steady a camera.
1. Tripod (various sizes, types, from tiny ones for tabletop to ultr-heavy-duty carbon fiber)
2. Monopod
3. Monopod with legs (e.g., TrekPod)
4. Bean bag (many brands and types)
5. Window mount
6. Gorillapod (can wrap around things)
7. Low mount or ground pod like Kirk Low Pod or Naturescape Skimmer or Jobu Skorpion
8. Clamp mount like the Trek-Tech Optimount , Ultrapod Ultra Clamp, various forms of C-clamp mounts or a SuperClamp + stud
9. Chest pod (often used for video)
10. Strap/cord (as mentioned above)
Those are just the types that I actually have and use. (5 regular-size tripods; compact tripod; 3 regular monopods; Trek Pod Go Pro; walking stick with camera mount; 3 sizes of Gorillapods; 4 tabletop “tripods;” Ultra Clamp; Optimount; SuperClamps; Kirk Low Pod; Skimmer; 2 window mounts; Kirk Strap pod & homemade nylon cord; chestpod; and 6 bean bag-type of various sizes & designs)
There are others:
11. Shoulder mount (again, often used for video, but adaptable for still cameras)
12. Rifle-stock-like mount
13. Boom pole
14. Screw mount (screws into walls, trees, etc)
15. Suction cup mount
16. Mounts for bicycles, motorcycles, golf carts
17. Camera stand (used in studios)
18. Articulating arm, like the Bogen Magic Arm
19. Flexible-arm mount
There are probably more types that I don’t know about.
As for the monopod, dragging one around can be inconvenient, awkward, and cause you to lose shots while you fiddle with the monopod. (I should know, having used various monopods for over 30 years and having 3 in my car nearly all the time.) There are times that monopods are a BIG help, especially with large, long focal-length lenses that are hard to handhold effectively or in low-light situations. They’re great if you stay more-or-less in one place for a time and shoot from one height most of the time. They can be a pain if you’re moving quickly or shooting up (birds in flight), level (landscapes) and low (closeups of flowers, insects), especially if you screw the monopod into the camera’s tripod socket or the foot of a lens collar. (I have Arca-Swiss plates on my cameras, so I put a quick-release clamp on the monopod. Sometimes, I use a ballhead.)
January 4th, 2010 at 9:13 pm
Great piece of tutorial, now I shouldn’t look like an amateur trying to hold my camera, thanks for posting.
January 8th, 2010 at 3:25 am
A trick I picked up from Joe MacNally is to rest the bottom of the camera on your shoulder while you hold the lens in your left hand and grip the the right end of the camera with your right hand. It only works if you use your left eye to look through the viewfinder but I’ve shot sharp pics down to 1/2 sec. (1 sec. using VC) using that technique.
January 10th, 2010 at 5:22 am
One other tip for holding small point-and-shoots has to do with the alignment of your “trigger force.” I’ve seen a lot of people place their thumb in a position that causes the camera to rotate slightly as they press with their shutter finger. To solve this, place your thumb under the camera directly opposite your shutter finger, and “squeeze” the camera in a straight line rather than let it rotate. This makes even single-handed shots more stable.
January 10th, 2010 at 1:25 pm
Really helpful tutorial Darren! I’m a huge fan of your blog here and ProBlogger, and you provide some really useful resources. Thanks man keep it up
January 12th, 2010 at 9:33 am
Until the end I couldn’t figure how this was anything other than common sense. But since I will be teaching a bunch of 5th graders about photography, this is a totally necessary topic. Excellent post that provided me with plenty of points to address with my class.
I look forward to blogging about the class’ progress on my website. Thanks for sharing this.
January 12th, 2010 at 9:37 am
@photomat :
We want to see your class’s progress too! What’s the address?
January 14th, 2010 at 12:01 am
Very good tips. I can shoot at 1/10 hand held and sometimes 1/8. But I have years and years of practice and I don’t even have to think about it any more. Not trying to brag on myself. Just pointing out that newer photographers have to consciously learn how to do this and this article explains exactly how to practice it. I use all these methods.
And I also use a tripod when I have to. If I’m hiking to take a photo of a waterfall for example, once I use the tripod, I just hide it somewhere along the trail so I don’t have to carry it anymore and pick it up on way back. If you do this, don’t forget where you left it. :)
January 24th, 2010 at 3:45 pm
I especially agree with the leaning agaist a solid object part. Works Wonders
February 5th, 2010 at 7:51 am
Another trick…accept to shoot under exposed to get a faster shutter release and compensate in post processing.
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