Getting It Right In Camera: Using Filters To Accurately Capture the Scene
A Guest Post by Rick Berk
Often when I’m out shooting landscapes, Mother Nature dictates that the conditions be less than ideal for landscape photography. Or at the very least, she decides the conditions should be different than what I envisioned when I decided to pack my bag and head out the door.
The image below is a perfect example. A friend and I had decided to head to Brooklyn to shoot the skyline of lower Manhattan at sunrise. I envisioned blue skies, with golden light from behind me, reflecting off the skyscrapers. If I had my druthers, there would have been some white puffy clouds with a hint of pink as well.
Mother Nature instead decided it would be grey and rainy, with not a hint of color in the sky. After waiting out a torrential downpour in a local diner, we headed back to our spot and set up to see what we could salvage of the morning. The sky was a bright white with some darker grey spots. The city had a flat light over it, and the East River was churning pretty heavily. I made my first decision- my images would be captured in black and white. There was certainly no color in the scene I was seeing, so I felt that black and white would accurately capture the emotions I felt on that grey day.
Second, I noticed that the clouds were really moving right over the city towards me. I felt I could use that movement to add drama. To do this, I would need to use a very very slow shutter speed of at least 30 seconds. This would accomplish two things. The slow shutter speed would allow the clouds to move during the exposure, creating a sense of movement in the scene, and the churning river would be rendered smooth and calm; a nice juxtaposition against the fast-moving sky. Since the lighting was bright overcast, I needed some help in achieving that slow shutter speed. I turned to a neutral density filter – in this case, a 10-stop ND filter that would give me a shutter speed 10 stops slower than the exposure I would have had without it.

I took a few shots with just the 10 stop ND filter to see how it would look. Unfortunately, the dynamic range of the image was too great for the camera to capture without any help. The sky was a little too bright, rendering it less dramatic than what I saw in reality. To correct this, I used a 4-stop graduated neutral density filter. A graduated neutral density filter (ND Grad) is a filter that’s half clear, and gradually becomes darker from the middle to the top edge. I position the ND Grad so that it darkens the sky without affecting the city skyline and the water. Both the ND Grad and the 10-stop ND filter in a holder that attaches to the lens.
After taking a few exposures with both filters stacked together, I was able to achieve the result I was looking for. I had dark dramatic sky, and nice smooth water, with acceptable detail in both the sky and the city buildings. The final exposure was 45 seconds, f/16, at ISO 400.

The equipment used for this shot was a Canon EOS 5D Mark III. The lens for the shot without the ND Grad was an EF 16-35mm f2.8L II. The final shot I used the EF 24mm f/1.4L II.
There are a number of 10-stop ND filters on the market- Lee markets the “Big Stopper”, and Formatt Hitech has their Pro Stop 10. Both are square filters which require a holder. Lightcraft Workshop has a variable ND filter – the Fader Ultra ND, which is a screw on version that can change densities from 9 to 12 stops.
The ND Grad used for this shot was the 4×5 Formatt Hitech 1.2 Soft Edge ND Grad, which has a density of 4 stops. Again, there are several companies out there marketing graduated ND filters, including Cokin, Lee, and Hitech. I’d advise staying away from screw-in ND Grads because you won’t have the ability to position the horizon where you want it. The square format filters allow you to position them in the holder so the horizon is where you need it.
Many times in nature the light dictates what we are able to capture with our cameras. By using filters, we are able to take some control over the situation and create images that not only capture what we see, but what we felt when we were at the location.
Rick Berk is based in New York and has been involved in photography for 20 years, shooting portraits, landscapes, and professional sports. His images can be viewed and purchased at www.rickberk.com.




19 Responses to “Getting It Right In Camera: Using Filters To Accurately Capture the Scene” - Add Yours
September 25th, 2012 at 6:37 am
To tell you the truth I prefer the original photo. The only changes I would make to it in post would be to bring out the sky a bit and perhaps enhance the contrast a little in the buildings furthest away from the camera. Also, there are no shadows in the water from the buildings in the second photo and less shadows in the foreground pilings. IMHO, the second photo seems more obviously “processed” and the equivalent of an overdone HDR photo, only in b&w. Thanks for letting us know how you arrived at the final look though.
September 25th, 2012 at 7:54 am
I love the final image, and the use of the 10 stop nd is great. I think it would be equally valid to avoid the graduated nd and take 2 exposures 4 stops apart and blend in post.
September 25th, 2012 at 8:22 am
Loved the finished photo but, could you have used a polarizing filter to darken the sky?
September 25th, 2012 at 10:44 am
Good writeup, thanks for sharing and interesting and valid comments by Patcam. I tend to like the first shot the best myself as well! I suspect these shots shows two things, the first being that tides are important in long exposures and secondly that water is relatively even brighter in overcast conditions. My points are summarised below:
- tides can change during a shoot which can dramatically change the patterns of motion of water and hence reflections you get. I think this might by why the reflctions are so different between the two shots. I find it best to shoot scenes with reflections on a high tide starting maybe 30-40 minutes before the tide turns. At this point water level will be its highest and the motion of the water will be relatively slow but you want to be finished shooting before it turns, or else make sure you shoot your sequences entirely on one direction of the tide
- exposure value of the water on overcast days is often maybe 1-2 stops lower than sky. It is therefore many stops brighter than the foreground. I would tend to shoot some brackets for those kind of conditions. Whilst filtering is still useful and essential to get the shot, I feel people tend to go one or the other (i.e. filter or bracket and blend) without considering the option of both filtering and exposure blending.
Thanks again for sharing and getting people thinking about how to use filters for great shots like these.
September 25th, 2012 at 3:30 pm
I prefer the 2nd photo (composition is much stronger.) Would be interested in hearing about pp too. My guess is that there has not been heavy pp other than the conversion to b&w.
September 26th, 2012 at 5:42 am
One of the reasons why the second photo has more impact is the improved clarity of building detail. Is the result of the lens change, or post processing ? I don’t think it is as a result of the extra filter ?
September 26th, 2012 at 12:10 pm
Thanks for the comments everyone. The only post processing was the conversion to black and white. The exact same processing was used for both shots as well.
Alan, I doubt a polarizer would have darkened the sky at all- it was a completely grey, rainy day. Might have helped reduce some diffusion from the fog but that’s about it.
Mick- yes, I could have taken two shots and blended in post- and I have often. But I wanted to avoid more than one exposure for this shot. Sometimes I just get in a mood and want it all done in camera. Only thing I did in post was the B&W conversion- using Nik Silver Efex.
September 26th, 2012 at 4:36 pm
awesome..b/w version..by the way the portrait in colour its better..just sharing..but i love it !! Slow shutter is amazing…
September 26th, 2012 at 11:28 pm
You know your craft and it shows. You knew what you wanted, how to get it, and you got it. Both photos are excellent. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
September 28th, 2012 at 2:20 am
I absolutley love the second photo. I’m an amature (very amature) and I’m falling in love with landscapes. Sometimes the emotion I can feel is astonishing and this photo certainly did that for me. I’m one that agrees with any approach to capture the exact emotion that you see in your composition. Thanks for sharing.
September 28th, 2012 at 5:37 am
An excellent article. I’ve been trying to replicate as well as I can this affect ever since I saw a great documentary on Michael Levin:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesgonneau/7695569892/
As mentioned, the use of a “Big Stopper”-type goes a long way to achieving this. Well, that and patience, which unfortunately, doesn’t come from Amazon or E-bay.
September 30th, 2012 at 8:02 am
Why not shoot at ISO 100 rather than 400 and use an 8 stop ND filter or change the aperature or shutter speed?
September 30th, 2012 at 9:37 am
Luigi-
You could certainly use an 8 stop filter and reduce your ISO. On extremely bright days I don’t find the 8-stops to be enough so I don’t own it. I did purchase the 10 and find that to be perfect for most of my needs.
September 30th, 2012 at 9:38 am
I think Luigi raises a good point. Often people just go with 10 stop filters. I think having 3 and stops as well as the 10 makes the system much more flexible.
September 30th, 2012 at 12:51 pm
I think my question was misunderstood. I was wondering why you wouldn’t shoot at ISO 100 to reduce noise?Since you have lots wiggle room with all the other parameters.
October 1st, 2012 at 10:33 am
Thank you Rick for sharing and also to those who made some enlightening comments. More power to DPS
October 5th, 2012 at 5:57 am
I would have liked to have seen how a 1/2 sec at ISO 100 stopped down to f/22 would have looked. I find that stopping down the aperture brings out the clouds and half second would have smoothed the river. I also prefer the water in the first shot but with the sky highlights darkened in the seconded shot. Just my 2 cents. Good work.
October 5th, 2012 at 1:16 pm
John-
Most lenses, when fully stopped down, suffer from diffraction to some extent or another. For maximum sharpness, your best bet is to be opened up one stop from minimum aperture. 1/2 second would not have been slow enough to get the look I was going for. I wanted that water as smooth as glass. With the filters, obviously, I could have taken away the 10 stop, used the grad, and gotten the shot you’re talking about. But I was already drenched and didn’t stay any longer to get more variations.
Thanks for the comments!
October 16th, 2012 at 12:19 pm
I love the final version. And appreciate your interesting explanation. I look forwards to years of experiementing with different lenses, filters, and all of the variations. All part of the learning and enjoyment. I like how you could analyze and visualize this scene.
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