Long Lens Technique

[flashpixx]

You've just bought that amazing long lens you have been lusting after. It's just too big to handhold, so how do you get the most from it?

My experience has been developed over a few years using a Nikon 200-400 f4 lens mounted on a monopod while shooting motorsport. The main thing we need to ensure is that we don't transfer or introduce vibration.

1. Attach the lens via the collar directly to the monopod

I don't use a monopod head. This is mainly as I don't need to be able to tilt the lens. However it also provides a solid connection between the lens and monopod. If you must use a head purchase a sturdy one, perhaps a Really Right Stuff model. Dont use a light tilt/swivel head as it will not be stable. The last thing you want is to try to hold up 7 or so kg of expensive lens and body while the darn head flops all over the place!

2. Rest your left hand on top of the lens

This will reduce the level of vibrations transferred to the lens. Remember vibration is the enemy of sharp images. Don't push down too hard as this may introduce flex into the monopod. The idea is to damp any vibrations that may be introduced.

3. Use an eyecup

I borrowed this one from Moose Peterson. To produce some more stability into the set up I like to push the camera backwards into my head. The use of an eyecup improves the comfort of that connection between your eye and the viewfinder.

4. Roll your finger onto the shutter release

If you stab at the shutter release you can intoduce that vibration we are seeking to reduce. By rolling your finger onto the shutter release there is a smaller chance of vibration being introduced.

5. Practice

You won't be an expert in five minutes but some diligent practice will see you shooting nice sharp images.

On another issue, I am often asked if I use VR or IS when shooting with a monopod. My answer is always no. While some of the latest model lenses have a tripod/monopod VR/IS selection, care needs to be taken to ensure VR/IS doesn't introduce any strange impacts on the image. I guess trial and error may be the best if you are unsure.

Good luck with your long lens shooting!

If you are interested, check out my Gallery at flashpixx.net | Motorsport Photography | Motorcycle Racing Photography | Kings of Wanneroo |

[RichardTaylor]

Thanks for the post. Much appreciated.

[Woody]

Great tutorial, thanks Gordon.


Cheers

John W

[graciousness]

You've just reminded me that I have a serious long lens and that I need to use it.

Many thanks for this tutorial, Gordon!

And this is becoming an Aussie convention, it seems, with two of my favourite people in DPS

Cheers!

Grace

[flashpixx]

wow 3 replies and all Aussies - awesome. You are most welcome, and thanks for the acknowledgement.

[Doug Sundseth]

I know I replied to this. The fact that my reply didn't show up must mean that either the software has problems handling text that is right-side up or that there is a nefarious antipodal plot. (Or perhaps that I didn't actually save the reply...one of those. )

It can also be useful when using long lenses to shoot in burst mode. What shutter-release-press movement there is will be concentrated in the first and last shot of the burst, allowing the middle shots to be sharper. This also works for hand-held long exposures, BTW.