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Old 11-10-2009, 08:31 PM
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Default Anything wrong with this?

Is there something wrong with this??? please be brutal. thanks
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Last edited by wulf; 11-11-2009 at 07:56 AM. Reason: Yes... you had three pictures attached! ONE image for critique please
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:38 PM
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shutter speed is to slow and all the images are blury from camera shake or motion blur. need at least 1/500 shutter speed.

they are under exposed by a good amount, much to dark.

your white balance is off, all the whites look pink.

give us your exif data and we might be able to help you a bit more.
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:57 AM
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Two things were wrong. One was that you had three pictures and you are requested to only post one at a time for critique. Secondly, you forgot to tell us anything about the camera, settings and context (which would give the rest of us a clue whether you have any hope of getting shots like this in focus and less noisy).

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Old 11-11-2009, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wulf View Post
Secondly, you forgot to tell us anything about the camera, settings and context (which would give the rest of us a clue whether you have any hope of getting shots like this in focus and less noisy).

Wulf
The exif for the one remaining shows:
# Canon XSi
# Exposure Time (1 / Shutter Speed) = 1/125 second ===> 0.008 second
# Lens F-Number / F-Stop = 5/1 ===> ƒ/5
# Focal Length = 100/1 mm ===> 100 mm
# Exposure Program = normal program (2)
# ISO Speed Ratings = 1600

The question should be..."Is there anything good with this?" Maybe the timing. Shutter speed is way, way too slow to freeze the action and I don't think the XSi will go to any higher ISO. Had the aperture been opened up to f/2.8, you'd have been OK...assuming you can open it further.
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Last edited by wamplers; 11-11-2009 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 11-12-2009, 05:02 PM
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sorry, i just realized you are all professional photographers. i joined this site, hoping to get pointers.

i do shoot with the canon xsi, the iso is at 1600, and you're right, it doesn't go higher. i've not been using a flash, b/c i've been trying to get continutal shots. apparently, not a good idea in night games.

thanks for your input.
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Old 11-12-2009, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckm1312 View Post
sorry, i just realized you are all professional photographers. i joined this site, hoping to get pointers.
.
you asked for brutal honesty on the picture you posted...i think you got it. So now what can you do to make future pics the best they can be?
You are maxed at your highest ISO but you need a higher shutter speed. Open the lens more if possible or use a different lens that allows in more light.
You could supplement the existing light with flash but your on-board won't work you'll need a separate flash unit and you will need to be close enough for the light to illuminate the subject (45 feet or closer).
Barring those options. Try and position yourself so action isn't perpendicular to you. Take pictures where the action is coming towards you or away from you. It will minimize the effect of motion blur. Check the field to see if there are hot spots where the stadium lights are brighter on the field and shoot when the action is in these areas.

good luck.
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Old 11-12-2009, 05:57 PM
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zona5101said it right, you asked for brutal honesty and it was given.

To shoot night games, you'll more than likely need a faster lens. Since I don't know what lens you were shooting with, I am going to assume it wasn't one that will allow you open up the aperture so you can get a faster shutter speed since this was shot at f/5. With the XSi, I don't think you'll even be able to shoot at a shutter speed of 1/500 even with a faster lens and still get a decent exposure since you would max out on the ISO at 1600, so you might have to go down a bit and shoot at least 250, you'd have a bit of motion blur but it shouldn't be too much.
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:07 PM
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If you shoot RAW, then you could double your shutter speed which would result in being a stop underexposed, then brighten the resulting image a stop in software. This would give you the equivalent of ISO 3200, but it only works in RAW.

You really only have 2 choices...get a faster shutter speed via either a faster lens or higher ISO, or use flash as your main light. This will allow the flash to freeze the action (getting rid of the blur), and allow you to use a lower ISO for cleaner images, i.e. less noise. If you go the flash route, I would recommend using a flash bracket that lets you get the flash a long way away from your camera to reduce red eye as much as possible.
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