Pitcher focus

[Karinu]

Well, I missed on this one. But I've got another chance later today so I need some help!

First, I didn't have my bigger lens with me when I shot this so I cropped all the extra out to square thinking I could set up a storyboard series of the pitch.

Then, after I did that, I realized that the focus was actually on the shortstop. Wondering how I should have changed settings to avoid that. I did focus on pitcher and press release halfway prior to action starting. Other than cropping, this is SOOC. I was shooting in the sports-auto setting using 18-105mm.

[wamplers]

Not sure about Nikon, but on my Canon the sports auto mode uses all the focus points. This means that you don't know where the camera will focus. I would manually select the center AF point (and helper points if Nikon has that) and use the continuous focus mode (pitcher is moving toward you through the delivery, so focus changes) and pick A mode (I think that's what Nikon calls aperture priority mode) to have more control over the camera settings. Just be sure to keep that AF point on the pitcher (you can crop for composition later). I set my lens wide open (f/2.8) and let the camera pick the shutter speed. Increase the ISO until you get a shutter speed 1/1000 or faster. If a night game, then you have to balance ISO with shutter speed for best noise / motion blur combination.

Hope this helps.

Here's a sample with settings below, setup as I described above:

Model: Canon EOS 50D
ISO: 400
Exposure: 1/4000 sec
Aperture: 4.0
Focal Length: 280mm

[Karinu]

Very helpful, thanks. I'm starting to venture into the "A" & "S" modes more but I like having this formula to start with.

Questions--
Your lens is "fancier" than mine--I have the 70-300 mm (f/4.5-5.6), so what should I set Aperture to? I'm guessing f/4.5...but how will that effect how much I can zoom?
Should I leave ISO to Auto or make the adjustment myself as you describe?
We are looking a fairly cloudy today, I think, so would this make a difference in what you recommend?

[wamplers]

• I used a 70-200 with a 1.4x TC, so that made my lens act as a 98-280 f/4 lens. For the 70-300, since it is variable aperture, I would set it to f/5.6 since that is the max zoomed in to 300.
• I would make the ISO adjustment myself. Auto ISO works OK when you don't care about shutter speed, but to freeze action, you want a fast shutter speed, so setting ISO manually guarantees you get what you want, given good enough light to support it.
• I would go about the settings the same way, but if you cannot get 1/1000 shutter speed at an ISO you're comfortable with, say 800 or 1600 (not sure how your camera performs), then you can start dropping ISO to get a shutter speed of 1/500 to balance high ISO noise against motion. I try to never go below 1/500.

NOTE: If your lens has VR, then 1/500 should be hand holdable without blur. If you do not have VR, then 1/500 may be too slow to hand hold. In that case, you would either need a monopod or stay at a faster shutter speed like the 1/1000. Or, you can zoom out a little and use a larger aperture to help with the speed.

[Karinu]

I do have VR, thankfully. Well, We'll see how I do. Will post anything decent tomorrow.
Thanks so much!!

[wamplers]

Good luck. Will be looking forward to them!