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Sorry....more questions!
I saw a Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR DI II - any idea what this one is like? Only at least it's about half the price of the others you mentioned in your original post, there must be something wrong with it?!!! |
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"AF" is, indeeed, autofocus "Di" = Full Frame Digital qualified "Di-II" = APS-C Digital specific "XR" = Extra Refractive Index Glass "IF" = Internal Focusing "LD" = Low Dispersion glass element That should cover the basic label designations.
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Don Schap Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them. My Gear List flickr™ |
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The 18-200 is an older build all-in-one. The improved and preferred lens is the 18-250. It is a quantum leap over the prior versions ... and the only real one you want in your bag.
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Don Schap Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them. My Gear List flickr™ |
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Basically, if your hands tend to tremble a bit, the camera's in-the-body stabilization should compensate for that ... and that basically allows you to run the shutter-speed slower without having the camera affected. But that is ONLY the camera. Any relative motion to the camera will show up more and more as you slow the shutter speed. Generally speaking: With a SONY DSLR, a person "sitting still" for your normal portrait exposure can be taken as slow as 1/15 sec (with practice on your part) handheld. That is if your halt your breathing for a moment, relax and take the image. This is usually the practical limit of image stability of most systems. Taking an image at this speed can often provide a nice looking image, without the use of a flash. But, everything has to stop moving. Any movement will result in a blur, be it moving the camera or a fidgeting subject (aka as children and/or nervous Nellies). Smoke from a cigarette will blur. Television images will blur. Moving up to 1/30 sec, the image stability (Super SteadyShot) has an easier time compensating for your movement and the person still needs to "sit still." Motion will blur, but not nearly as much as at 1/15th. This can be a tricky shutter speed for indoor work. You are getting into the need for flash. At 1/60 second, you can be relatively confident of a nice image, but will probably be requiring the use of a flash. Camera motion is still important, but a lot less prevalent. The person probably will blink and that will be "look and see at the resulting image" situation. Flash could be required. At 1/125 sec, you can usually freeze most subtle movements by your subject. Flash is almost definitely required, unless you are outdoors. At 1/250 sec, image stability is beginning to be kind of useless for most lenses under 75mm, unless you are really getting beaten up by your environment. Normal motion of a human subject is also less of a consideration. At this speed and higher, a HSS *high speed synchronization) flash is needed, because normal flashes will not synchronize with the shutter opening and closing this quickly. At 1/500 sec, the only lenses that might benefit from image stability are 200mm long or longer. The shutter is closing so fast, you can freeze almost any human movement, except batting, tennis whacks, and other high-speed motion. Propellers of airplanes and helicopters are clearly visible. At 1/1000 sec., you can usually halt cars going 25 mph or slower, as they pass. At 1/2000 sec, almost any vehicle under 100mph. At 1/4000 sec, jets stop moving At 1/8000 sec. TIME STOPS! ![]() Anyway ... any further questions? BTW: The TAMRON SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II LD Aspherical (IF) is a terrific choice for a lens.
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Don Schap Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them. My Gear List flickr™ Last edited by DonSchap; 10-24-2009 at 05:16 PM. |
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Thanks for the response. I take what you're saying as the faster lens works with the in body stabilization on the Sony basically the same as the kit lens, less accounting for the "faster" aspect of the Tamron. I'm going for the Tamron, got a trip to Paris coming up so the time is right. Thanks again. |
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The "faster" (wider the aperture) a lens is, the faster you can set your shutter speed to capture the same image.
Let's say you find that to get a "zero" 0 Ev (exposure value) reading on your camera's meter, your settings with your 18-70mm f/3.5-5.6 "kit lens" @ 50mm were: f/5.6 (widest possible aperture @ 50mm with this lens) 1/5 sec* ISO-400 * Which basically exceeds the average performance envelope of having SSS correct for shake Using the TAMRON 17-50mm f/2.8 @ 50mm, your settings could be: f/2.8 1/15 sec** ISO-400 ** Which is now within the performance capability of SSS. To be a bit safer and not push the noise issue, you could up your ISO to 800 and get these settings: f/2.8 1/30 sec. ISO-800 "SSS" is well within operating limitations, and you have a faster shutter speed to capture your subject. With the kit lens, you would never be able to achieve as nice and controlled an image. You will also find that as far as sharp focus and image quality, the TAMRON 17-50 runs rings around the "kit" lens ![]()
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Don Schap Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them. My Gear List flickr™ Last edited by DonSchap; 10-25-2009 at 12:21 PM. |
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LenDog, it would be hard to go wrong with that lens. The next major step up is either $1599, with a CZ 24-70mm f/2.8 or $1899 with the CZ 16-35mm f/2.6 Better yet ... BOTH!.
Good luck with that! yes way up.gif
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Don Schap Look, I did not create the optical laws of the Universe ... I simply learned to deal with them. My Gear List flickr™ Last edited by DonSchap; 10-26-2009 at 03:15 AM. |
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