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Overdone? it all depends on the look you are going fo. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
I got a bit burned out on the HDR thing so I dont do them so much anymore, but what I used to was to do several layers, using one of the orginal images as well as the merged images. Thatw ay you can still use a bit of the orginal, which is how I got away from the whole halo thing.
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Olympus user, Fuji E900, a canon & last but not least a Minolta 35mm and some really old large format box cameras.Not to mention a whole bunch of other stuff. Paint Shop Pro X3, CS3,CS5, Portrait Professional, Topaz Adjust, Lucis Art and the list goes on........ www.alockintime.com |
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I've been searching for this kind of solution for my HDR shots as well. I finally found a good one (lost the link though) that really seems to work for me:
1. In photoshop, open your HDR image with the halo as well as the extreme original shots (-1 and +1 .. or -2 and +2....however you shot the HDR) 2. Set the bottom layer as the HDR halo image, put the dark image in the middle, and the light image on top. 3. Duplicate the HDR halo image into a new layer and place this on the very top. (Make a sandwich with HDR 'bread'. 4. Look at your HDR image to see where the halos extend (In your pic, they're most visible at the tops of the trees.) 5. In the dark layer, erase everything that's not in the halo region. Do the same thing to the light layer. 6. In the top HDR layer, Erase the halo area. You can do this by setting a large feathered brush and just erasing the halo area 7. Play with the blend settings in the dark image. What works for me is the burn/darken/ and sometimes screen settings. 8. Adjust the opacity of the dark layer until it looks better. 9. If it looks odd, this is what the light layer is for. You can adjust the intensity of the light layer to compensate for that dark layer. 10. When everything looks decent, adjust the opacity of the top HDR layer. Usually, saturating this layer by a small amount makes it a little better overall The settings I usually work with are: Top HDR layer: Opacity 15-25% blend mode lighten/screen/overlay Light Original Layer: Opacity 20-50% blend mode overlay/darken/burn Dark Original Layer: Opacity 15-35% blend mode burn/darken/screen Bottom HDR Layer: Opacity 100% blend mode normal I'm typing from memory as I don't have photoshop here at work. Hope this helps a little bit. The biggest thing is to change the opacity (increases/decreases layer impact on image) and to change the blend modes. If you can't tell a difference, move the sliders to the extremes to see what the mode does. If it doesn't look like it will help, change blend modes.
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Gear: Canon XSi, Canon 50D, Canon 18-55mm kit lens, Canon 28-135 kit lens, Canon 35-70mm lens, Canon 50mm f/1.8, Tamron 70-300mm macro lens, Photoshop CS2, photomatix pro 3.1 http://www.flickr.com/photos/nathano http://nathanorona.blogspot.com |
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Try using Hugin together with Enblend. It doesn't suffer from those halos, and it also produces a much more natural result. If you're not after those over-processed HDR shots it's definitely worth a try.
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Website: http://stuvel.eu/ Gear: All Canon: EOS 7D EOS 350D 10-22mm F/3.5-4.4 USM 17-55mm F/2.8 IS USM 70-300mm F/4-5.6 IS USM 85mm F/1.8 USM 60mm F/2.8 USM Macro Speedlite 580EXII, 430EX and 430EXII |
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All good suggestions but the original post asked for help with photomatix. The software is perfectly capable of producing nice looking HDR's or overproduced HDR's. You just have to take the time & have patience to find the right combination of settings. Every photo will be different.
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Thank you all for your suggestions! Nathan, i really appreciate your step by step tutorial. I will definitely try that NOW hehe.. I guess I will just have to learn photomatix better. I appreciate all your comments and suggestions. Thank you so much!
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easier solution is to blend the orginal exposure that looks the best for the sky by creating a layer mask and brushing the original sky back into the the tonemapped version. Here is a recent one I did very quickly the other day.
![]() This method even works for when you have obvious movements and discrepancy in the clouds and want to make them look better and more natural.
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Sony Alpha A700, 17-80mm & 75-300mm, Sigma 10-20mm, Wacom Pen Tablet, Photoshop CS4, Lightroom 2.0 Feel free to re-edit and re-post in DPS forums only ![]() Flickr Purchase Prints FOLLOW ME TO MY HDR TUTORIAL!
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