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I'm sure this has already been discussed somewhere... please feel free to redirect me if I am being redundant...
I am a bit frustrated with the BW conversions I've been doing. I just feel that they are lacking something... My general technique is the following steps: 1. Channel Mixer - Monochrome - depending on the image I mix the channels accordingly but I tend to go with a 70/30/5 (R/G/B)on a lot of images 2. Add a color burn layer - up to 15% opacity 3. Add a soft light layer - up to 30% opacity I read this technique somewhere and like it but maybe I'm just not doing something right. What is your technique? Are there any techniques that seem to be better than others? I am very interested in finding out all the different methods and trying them out...
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There are SO many ways to change to b&w... the "right" was is whatever looks good to you. This is what I tend to do:
go to the channels palette and look at the red, green, and blue channels. take note of the one(s) that look the best to you. You may like one part of the photo in the green channel, but another in the red. then I change the mode to LAB color and look at the lightness channel. sometimes that looks the best to me. select all and copy. undo until you're back in RGB mode, then paste. with the background layer selected, copy and paste the color channels you like. you can play with the blending modes, opacities, and layer orders of your b&w layers until you get something you like. I'll often mask out some parts, maybe duplicate a layer, and I play a lot with the blending modes. I find that doing this gives me a lot more control than the channel mixer, but it takes a lot more time, too. I tend to do everything the complicated way. but I'm crazy like that.
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merlyn - yes I have tried that but for me it always seems to be too "constant" if that even makes sense... i usually like to lighten or darken only sections of the image so I end up doing it manually using masks. Sometimes I'll get an image that does benefit from that feature though and it makes things much easier...
googlit - yes your version does seem complex! I will have to try it out though because I would love to perfect my methods as well... thanks for the suggestions guys
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My own method differs somewhat. I desaturate the image and then play with the curves and the contrast to achieve the results I like.
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Will Pentax K10D w/ D-BG2 grip, Pentax *ist DL, Pentax 18-55mm f3.5-5.6, Sigma 28-80mm f3.5-5.6 DL Macro, Pentax-M 50mm f1.7, Sigma 135-400mm f4.5-5.6 APOMy flickr Please do not edit/manipulate my photos without my permission.
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Here is a tutorial I found a log time ago, it works pretty well. (a bit long sorry for that
)Step One Open the color photo you want to convert into a high-contrast black-and-white image. Press the letter D to set your Foreground color to black, and then from the Create New Adjustment Layer pop-up menu at the bottom of the Layers palette, choose Gradient Map. Step Two When the Gradient Map dialog appears, it shows the Foreground to Background gradient by default (and because you chose black and white as your Foreground/Background colors, the gradient will be black and white). You don't have to do anything here, just click OK to apply this gradient map to your photo. Step Three Believe it or not, just the simple act of applying this black-to-white gradient map will usually give you a much better grayscale conversion than the standard method of choosing Grayscale from the Image menu's Mode submenu. But there's one drawbackif it doesn't look great, there's nothing you can do to the gradient map because there's really nothing to adjust. So, in the next step, we add the ability to adjust our black-and-white conversion. Step Four Go to the Layers palette, and from the Create New Adjustment Layer pop-up menu, choose Channel Mixer. As you learned earlier in this chapter, you can use Channel Mixer to adjust the individual color channels of an image to create a better grayscale. Well, we're going to use it to adjust our image that's already grayscale, giving it the extreme contrast it so richly deserves. Step Five Click on the Monochrome checkbox in the bottom left-hand corner of the dialog (otherwise, when you move the sliders, you'll get color tints instead of grayscale tweaks). Step Six Here's where the fun begins. The technique starts with two predetermined steps: (1) Lower the Constant slider (at the bottom) to -8 to darken the entire photo, and (2) lower the Red channel to around 75% (I do this on every image). Now, you're going to increase the Green and Blue channels to create the extreme contrast. How much do you move them? For this image, I moved the Green to 26% and the Blue to 34%, but I came up with those numbers using a tried-and-true method, which I will disclose (for the first time ever) in the next step. Step Seven I started dragging the Green slider to the right, and I kept dragging it as long as the photo continued to look better. As soon as it started to look bad, I stopped. Then, I did the exact same thing with the Blue slider. It sounds silly, but think about ithow can that not work? If it makes the photo look betterkeep doing it. If it stops looking better, stop. Once I clicked OK, I went to the Layers palette's flyout menu and chose Flatten Image (don't do this just yet if you want to try out the other methods). Then I went to the Filter menu, under Sharpen, and I added an Unsharp Mask filter with the settings: Amount 85%, Radius 1 pixel, and Threshold 4 levels. |
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The times, they are a-changin. In the upcoming CS3, there is an actual, honest-to-god Black and white adjustment layer. I played with it in the CS3 beta and fell in love.
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I know this is technically cheating, but for black and white shots I tend to use the Virtual Photographer plugin (works in Paintshop Pro as well as Photoshop and other image software). Very nice interface to use, you get previews of everything and you can fine tune it to the exact results you want.
I've never managed to digitally manipulate it "by hand" as effectively. |
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I am just lazy. I use Johny's B&W + Tint Tones Photoshop Action. Really a great action for B&W but also for dutones. I really love this action. And after execute the action, the image can still be tweaked to your likings.
http://www.outdooreyes.com/photo52.php3 |
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