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Yes, you can post process any image. Just be thoughtful of the fact that jpg files are by definition compressed and can be degraded if saved too many times. So my suggestion to you is open a copy of the file in your editing program and when done save the edit as png or tiff. This will enable you to reopen it and continue to edit again.
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I do a lot of my editing on Jpegs.... My camera records to two disks. One is in Raw and one Jpeg-fine. For images properly exposed and minimal post I usually use the jpegs.
And if images aren't properly exposed they usually aren't worth the post.....
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Steve the Photographic Academy.com My Portfolio, My Flickr, My Blog D4, D7000, G10, 1030SW and a bunch of other stuff.... |
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Pay extra attention that your white balance setting is correct for the environment you're shooting in. A big advantage for RAW is that all of the color information is preserved, so if you need to make white balance corrections it's a very simply procedure when working with that format. In JPEG however, a lot of color information is discarded according to JPEG format's compression. So if you have to make WB color corrections to a jpeg, the original hue may not return true due to the missing color data.
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My flickriver |
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When I used to shoot JPG and would edit them to finish the pic I would open the original in Photoshop duplicate the layer and hide the original background layer so it never gets touched and do all my post processing on the dupe layer finally saving it as PSD.
If I wanted to send the image as a JPG I would always have the PSD with the original image as my master giving me the best chance of minimizing JPG artifacts. And I have the original (in the hidden layer) in case I wanted to refine or alter the post processing for a totally different result again without further compression loss. Also............also............darn it. I forgot what else I was going to say... ![]() .
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Canon 60D, G12, Leica V-LUX 20, Canon 10-22mm EF-S f/3.5-4.5, 18-135mm EF-S f/3.5-5.6 IS, 100mm EF f/2.8 Macro, 15-85mm EF-S f3.5-5.6 IS, 50mm EF f1.4, 70-200mm EF f2.8L IS II, Kenko tubes, Satechi WR-C100 Wireless Remote, B+W Filters, Gitzo monopod, Sunpak 623px tripod, Sunbounce mini micro reflector, Colormunki Photo, DPP, PSD, Pixma Pro9000 Mark II, MAC, WIN. |
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If I couldn't shoot RAW, then I would at least want to use a tripod and bracket my shots.
From my experience, it's easier to brighten an underexposed image than try to recover detail in an overexposed image. I saw a tutorial on YouTube on PSP, but I think this will apply to other programs. The author had a single jpg and created a duplicate layer, but used the Screen blending mode, I believe. Different blending modes will give you lighter/darker versions of your original jpg. You can then use a layer mask to blend the layers and even out your exposure.
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GREG - Canon XS with 18-55 kit flickr flickriver My 500px "You can't be young forever, but you can always be immature." - Larry Andersen. |
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I think that only applies to Raw. And I'm not sure if it's much of a difference either. But I do know what you're talking about, I've seen that said more than a few times when I was learning about the histogram. It was recommended that shooting slightly overexposed saves more data from the scene, and allows you to have more detail in your photo in the shadows. But you'd only want to slightly overexpose, not enough to lose the detail in your highlights when you bring the exposure down.
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David Equipment Camera: Canon EOS Rebel 550d | Battery Grip | Lens: 18-55mm, 55-250mm, 50mm F/1.8 | Attachments: Zeikos Macro Extension Tubes | Flashes : 430ex II | Umbrellas: 60" Portfolio |
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