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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2009, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spencer28n View Post
If your more concerned about getting everyone in focus than the composition of the photograph, get everyone to stand in a line next to each other. use a focus higher than 3.5, and you should be good. But that probably makes for a horrible photograph.
Be careful about having everyone stand in a line. I've learned this the hard way! Aside from the poor posing (as you noted), you may also run into issues with sharpness falling off on either end depending on your focal length, distance to the subjects, and number of people in the line. When everyone stands in a straight line, the people in the center of the line (directly in front of the camera) are a certain distance from the camera, while the people on the ends (off at an angle from the camera) are actually farther away (and might actually fall out of your acceptable range of focus if you use a shallow aperture). I wish I could draw a diagram. Anyways, it's best to put people in an arc so everyone is equidistant from the camera.

Wulf's website recommendation is a good one. I've been there before and have found it helpful.
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Old 10-03-2009, 11:02 PM
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I still don't completely understand DOF- my main problem is with the calculations (i hate math!) so I've been relying on my aperture levels. Only thing I can say is avoid straight lines and try not to go too low, like 1.8, or you may run into trouble there.
Good luck! I'll be checking this topic again for sure
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Old 10-04-2009, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by CJWilkes View Post
Besides... if you have a large group and you are shooting outside in the shade... you really don't want to close up your Aperture too much. You can shoot f/5.6 and as mentioned - learn your field of depth.

Here is a group shot of many more than 11: Settings are:

Camera: Nikon D80
Exposure: 0.008 sec (1/125)
Aperture: f/5.6
Focal Length: 60 mm
Exposure: 0.00
ISO Speed: 160
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Flash: No Flash



I had moved back farther but as you can see the clarity is not too bad.
What is up with the guy in the second or third row from the front who looks like he's been edited into the picture? It caught my eye and made me curious.
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by LifePhotography08 View Post
What is up with the guy in the second or third row from the front who looks like he's been edited into the picture? It caught my eye and made me curious.
I didn't notice it until you pointed it out but he looks like a cardboard cut-out
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Old 10-04-2009, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LifePhotography08 View Post
What is up with the guy in the second or third row from the front who looks like he's been edited into the picture? It caught my eye and made me curious.
hahaha
nice observation mate
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Old 10-04-2009, 11:16 AM
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Now that you mention it, quite a few of them look photoshopped in. I wonder if it's a composite of different photographs? Not to be rude, it's a neat idea...just wondering.
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Old 10-04-2009, 01:58 PM
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I didn't even notice that guy at first - and now can't see how I didn't see it!!!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2009, 07:24 PM
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Default Hyperfocal distance.

I'm surprised that no-one has mentioned hyper-focal distance yet.
So surprised, infact, that I had to create an account and post about it myself!

The way the wedding photographer managed to get everyone in sharp focus with an aperture of only 5.6 is by judicious use of hyper-focal distance when composing their shot.

From Wikipedia
Quote:
In optics and photography, hyperfocal distance is a distance beyond which all objects can be brought into an "acceptable" focus.
So, for example. If we try to take a photo on an EOS1000d at 28mm, with an F-stop of 5.6, then according to Wulf's website link, if you focus at 7.2m (24 feet), then everything from 3.66m (12 feet) away will be in focus.

However, if you need to be closer than 3.66m (12 feet) from the closest subject in order to compose the shot, then you can sacrifice the amount of objects in focus in the far distance. For example, a EOS1000d at 28mm, F5.6 you could focus at 4m (13 feet), and everything from 2.6m (8.5 feet) to 8.78m (29 feet) away from you will be in acceptable focus.

-Jodi The Tigger

p.s. I would assume the cardboard cutout is for someone who wasn't able to make it to the wedding, but the wedding party wanted "included" in the celebration.
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:32 PM
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Ok, using the wedding photograph supplied in this thread as an example.

Nikon D80, 60mm at F5.6.

I'll guess that at least 4m (13 feet) needs to be in focus. In order to do that the photographer would have to be around 6.3m (20.5 feet) away from the bride and groom, and then focus about 7.8m (25.5 feet) away (maybe on the cardboard cutout?), then everyone should be in focus.

-Jodi
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2009, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LifePhotography08 View Post
What is up with the guy in the second or third row from the front who looks like he's been edited into the picture? It caught my eye and made me curious.
It must be an add-on; anyone standing in that position for real would have his left shoulder forward, not his right - just compare his stance with the older guy below him.
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