Help with backlit subjects

[jackhammer_22]

Hi all this is my first on DPS! From what i see it's real great. Anyway, i just got a new camera and I'm going to bring it on a trip to NY very soon. In my past trips I've always had a problem some shots.

For example if I want to take a shot of someone with the eiffel tower in the background and the background is very bright, what should i do here? I have tried using spot metering for this but when i half-press on the person's face and recompose, the eiffel tower becomes too bright



if i meter for the eiffel tower the people become too dark



Does anyone have any suggestions on how to correctly expose the shot so both the people and the eiffel tower are properly exposed and focused? Any help is greatly appreciated!!

[Eberbachl]

I would try metering for the Eiffel tower and using fill flash so that your subjects are illuminated. That way you should have both your subjects and the tower properly exposed. You could also give the second shot some positive exposure compensation - the tower is still quite dark, and with a bit more exposure you should be able to bring out some detail in the trees.

[kencaleno]

several ways to cope with this:
When you half press to spot meter, take note of Fstop and shutter speed,and when you recompose,make sure you have these settings in the viewfinder; or

use a graduated Neutral density filter or,do it in photoshop:

Try Dynamic Range Increase: With camera on tripod: meter for highlight, take a shot-then meter for shadows, take another shot. In Photoshop, add lighter image to darker as a new layer, then: Select> Color Range-click highlights ,check “invert”, click “OK”. Add layer mask. Filter> Blur> Gaussian Blur 250 pixels. Flatten and save. You will get detail in highlights and shadows.

As below:

regards, Ken

[Eberbachl]

Wouldn't that be dependent on the trees and the people not making any movements at all between the shots?

Fine for static subjects, but surely wouldn't that be extremely difficult with people?

[kencaleno]

Originally Posted by Eberbachl

That would all be very well, but wouldn't it be dependent on the trees and the people not making any movements at all between the shots?

Fine for static subjects, but surely wouldn't that be extremely difficult with people?

You can do it in one shot if the sky isn't too dark, like this:

Graduated Neutral Density Filter effect

Add adjustment layer> levels
Drag right slider to left
Drag middle slider to left (These moves enable you to get the ground or sea how you want it)
Press “D”
Press “G”
Choose linear gradient (Black to transparent)
Drag cursor from horizon up to mid-sky
flatten/save

Regards, ken

[Eberbachl]

Thanks - very interesting. Some things for me to try.

[jackhammer_22]

Wow thank you both for your fast replies they were all very helpful! I'd like to clarify something though, for the below quote what exactly does that mean doing?

Originally Posted by kencaleno

When you half press to spot meter, take note of Fstop and shutter speed,and when you recompose,make sure you have these settings in the viewfinder

Does it mean setting the Fstop and shutter speed to exactly what was shown when metering? Pardon my curiosity, (i just like knowing how everything works) but how does that help to keep both the person and the eiffel tower both detailed?

[kencaleno]

Originally Posted by jackhammer_22

Wow thank you both for your fast replies they were all very helpful! I'd like to clarify something though, for the below quote what exactly does that mean doing?



Does it mean setting the Fstop and shutter speed to exactly what was shown when metering? Pardon my curiosity, (i just like knowing how everything works) but how does that help to keep both the person and the eiffel tower both detailed?

exactly! that's what i meant-regards, Ken

[candleman]

spot metering isnt generally a good idea for outdoors in the first place..

i find matrix metering works well outdoors if you want the sky and foreground exposed (thats why the auto-mode "landscape/scenery" uses matrix by default..

focus, then from there use evposure bias to underexpose and use flash to fill.

spot gives allot of extremes whereas matrix will tend to even things out more.

[zespri]

Using a flash is one option, otherwise go for underexposed if you have to choose between the two, it's much easier to fix up in Photoshop later.