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One thing I've been told a few times when looking at portraits is to look at the sharpness of the subject's eye.
Can anyone help me with this - is there an example of what a "good" eye should look like?
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Camera: Canon T1i Lenses: Tamron 18-270; Tamron 90mm; Canon 50mm 1.8; Holga 60mm flickr |
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It should be in focus, and not out of focus, often this is more important for the "closer to the camera" eye, but it can also be important that it is the eye on a rule of thirds crossing. Often it is both eyes, but need not always be both.
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Flickr stream. http://www.flickr.com/photos/34094515@N00/ 500pics stream http://500px.com/Richard_Taylor |
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Quote:
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com |
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Thanks for the replies so far.
Here's the picture that got me to ask it... http://flickr.com/gp/misteral/6jLu2c It's something I've noticed a bit when doing similar shots. When viewing Original size, the "front" of her, the hat, looks to be sharp to me, but then the eyes don't. There should be just under 1 foot range for the DOF (90mm lense, f/3.5 from 13ft away), which should be enough to keep her features in focus. Am I looking at it wrong?
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Camera: Canon T1i Lenses: Tamron 18-270; Tamron 90mm; Canon 50mm 1.8; Holga 60mm flickr |
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Susan's question above is the first thing you need to address. If you are shooting in an auto/green box mode, the camera will be choosing the focus point(s), and more often than not you will miss focus on the eyes. Obviously, the best way to assure sharp focus on the eyes is to select the eye to be focused on when composing the shot. You'd also have to consider other possible issues for the cause, such as how well your lens resolves at various focal lengths/aperture settings, ISO settings, slight movements on your, or your subject's part, camera settings as in servo modes vs one shot mode, etc. (servo modes will allow the shot to be taken before focus needs to be locked in, whereas one shot will always lock focus prior to the shot)
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com |
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There's nothing in that shot thats properly in focus. If she was moving, she could have moved forward/backward slightly and gotten herself out of the focus zone
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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Thanks for the responses. I'm going to try this again tonight.
The focus mode is on 'One Shot'. I'm fairly certain the focus points marked on her face, nearest her eyes, but when I try this tonight I'm going to pay more attention there. Thanks for the insight so far!
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Camera: Canon T1i Lenses: Tamron 18-270; Tamron 90mm; Canon 50mm 1.8; Holga 60mm flickr |
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How about selecting a single focus point and use that one to focus on the eye(s) as Susan suggested. My focus recompose skills are not the best, so I toggle the focus point for the orientation/composition I'm shooting.
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Canon Rebel XS 18-55mm IS, 75-300mm, 50mm f1.8, 70-200mm f2.8 Flickr Always ok for DPS users to critique and edit my photos for instructional purposes. |
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