Help needed with wrestling photos

[deppt]

I'm volunteering as the team photographer for my son's high school wrestling team. I'm using a Nikon D90 with 18-200m lens. Sometimes I shoot in Automode and other times in Program mode. I set white balance depending on the gym lighting. AF area mode = dynamic, Center focus mode = wide, no flash, ISO auto control = on, max = 3200, min shutter speed = 1/1000. Getting some great pictures, but some have blurry arms and legs. What can I do to freeze the action?

Mom Photographer

[Doug Sundseth]

I'd recommend putting up an example along with the exif data. Without that, it's pretty difficult to make a suggestion.

[deppt]

Can I upload a photo from Shutterfly? I don't have a flickr account.

[sk66]

You only have a couple options with your current gear (assuming you are already at max aperture.
You need more SS. You can increase ISO (probably not a good idea). Another option would be to go to S mode or Manual mode and set the SS higher. Either will result in underexposure which will have to be fixed in post. But the results will probably be better than going above 3200 on a D90 (3200 is really pushing it already on a D90...I would consider restricting to 1600 and underexposing further).

BTW, what is "Auto Mode" on a D90....Do you mean Aperture priority? (the big "A").

[Jim Bryant]

Do they use one overhead light suspended from the ceiling? I set up about three strobes that were triggered off by using a http://www.the-digital-picture.com/R...-Review.aspx.I believe they make them for nikon as well.

Best results I have is set the ISO 1600, out the camera on manual, shutter speed 250th and f-stops f2.8.

[deppt]

Ok, I've created a flickr account and posted a picture. Didn't see how to get the picture here, but here's the link
Flickr: Photos & Video from tdepp1

Does this help? Thanks so much. Another match tomorrow night!

Terry

[deppt]

Jim, we're in a high school gym.

[deppt]

sk66,

I have an Automatic (camera sets everything) and Aperture Priority on the D90. I'm a newbie, maybe my terminology isn't correct.

Terry

[inkista]

Terry: on Flickr, there's a "share" button. If you click on that, you should see a place where you can copy and paste code ("Grab the HTML/BBCode"). The BBCode will put in formatting/linking tags that this board can understand. To look at copy/paste the EXIF information, go to the link of your camera name on the upper right, and click on it, and the EXIF information should appear. I'll post it up for you, this time.



Camera Nikon D90
Exposure 0.017 sec (1/60)
Aperture f/5.0
Focal Length 82 mm
Focal Length 82.3 mm
ISO Speed 800
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Flash Auto, Did not fire

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Your problem here is slow shutter speed: 1/60s isn't nearly fast enough to "freeze the action." You don't have much light to work by, so you can increase the shutter speed one of three ways: a) light with a flash, b) increase the iso, or c) open up the aperture.

Problem is, your aperture is probably at its maximum, because the 18-200 has a maximum aperture of f/3.5-5.6.

Just me (and others would disagree), but I'd recommend getting an 85mm f/1.8D. The difference between f/1.8 and f/5 is 3 stops. That's eight times the light. You could then use a shutter speed eight times as fast (1/500s), without having to increase the iso. But. You would have a much thinner DoF so focusing accurately (and fast enough) would be tougher, and (of course), there's no zooming with a prime.

Indoor sports is probably one of the most demanding subjects when it comes to lenses, because you normally want reach and speed in combination. Either one costs. But in combination, the cost can get astronomical. The ideal lens for you for this type of shooting is probably a 70-200 f/2.8 VR lens. Unstabilized, and 3rd party, you're probably looking at $800-$900; the Nikkor VR version is probabyl closer to $1500.

Which is why I say a $450 85mm f/1.8 might be a better choice. A lot of others are likely to advocate adding light with flash.

If you can't afford new gear, another possibility is to shoot in RAW, increase the ISO, and then underexpose by a stop or two to get the shutter speed you need, and push the exposure (lighten it) in post. You will add a cartload of noise doing this, though. But you might be able to eliminate the subject blur.

[sk66]

Looks like the D90 isn't listening to any of your settings when in Program/Automatic....it thinks it's smarter than you are.
If the settings you described were used (ISO 3200 and 1/1000) you would have stopped the motion but underexposed. Looks like the best you could have gotten would have been about 1/250 at ISO 3200...Not quite fast enough IMO (but much better). ISO 3200 is quite noisy on that camera...

Inksta's right....if this is what you are going to be doing you need a gear solution. Faster lens, lights, etc.
As the" team photographer" maybe lighting is an option, but multiple strobes will cost a fair bit. I'm guessing that since you are using a D90 on program and volunteering that idea is a bit much in several ways...

The 85mm 1.8 is a good option. I say "good" and not "great" because it's just "better" than what you have now but it's a step in the right direction and cost effective. You are still likely to run into issues even with the faster lens.... "The solution" for this kind of stuff is a much more expensive body/lens/and possibly lighting...