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Its not a stupid question, in fact self portraits of the nature you described are relatively difficult. To me it seems the set-up is correct (although I wouldn't know for sure without being there). I think the problem can be two things:
1. The self timer isn't long enough, so by the time you get there you're too late. This can be solved by going into your menu, and looking for self timer settings. Just put it on its longest time, to allow you to settle in before the shutter clicks. 2. The focus isn't 100% right. There is a few ways of correcting this. Either put it on auto focus (if you're not familiar with manual), and from the same distance at which you're going to take a picture, focus it on where you intend your faces to be (what you want focused upon). Make sure it looks correct and not focusing on another distance away from the camera. Then turn off auto focus, (so the focus doesn't change when you click the shutter) and click the picture. Focus is also made easier when you shoot at a larger aperture because they create a larger depth of field (depth of field is the field or space within an image that is in focus). But, I think Big Fuzzy is right, we need more information to help you more. Hope this helps. --Chase Guttman Photography Tip World Last edited by cagg1120; 01-26-2011 at 11:47 PM. |
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Not a stupid question, just a very beginner one and that's ok.
Also, it typically helps a lot if you're able to help us help you by posting a photo so we can see exactly what's going on. Also, at the very least, get us the EXIF info (you'll see why I need it below) The deal is that you're not really at the place where your camera focused. Your faces would have to be along the same plane as the exact spot your camera focused on. And considering what you told me, I'm assuming you're actually in front of the focal plane. What you need to do is try to put something were you think your head is going to be (or at least at the same depth) and focus on that, not the couch where your back, not your face is. Also, I'm pretty sure your aperture is pretty wide open (small f/number) which makes is so that a shallower area is in focus.. so it'd help if you had a narrower aperture..but then that affects your shutter speed... ack..basically, there are a few things you'd need to learn to really be able to play with selfies.. Also, consider getting a remote shutter release that allows you to make the camera focus before clicking the shutter. Then you can position yourself and then tell the camera to focus on you. I hope this helps.. some? Good luck |
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Thank you guys on your sugestions
I will defenetly try those. I will put a giant teddy bear to focus on, before I take a seat for the picture.. the hardest thing for me is to keep trying, as I get dissipointed if I dont get the desired results...but i just gotta learn to be patient Thanks again for the help
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Keep trying Yulchick...be patient.
Look on the bright side...we are shooting digital. If I was shooting film I'd be broke since 99% of my pics don't turn out! lol
__________________
Nikon D90 Nikkor 18-105mm (3.5-5.6), Nikkor 80-200mm (2.8) |
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Is the camera in auto or manual focus modes? During my first few attempts at self portraits with the kit lens on my D40 I realised that, while I might use autofocus when setting up the shot, I had to flick to manual focus mode before setting the timer going. If not, the camera would refocus at the point of automatic shutter release and it was very hard to be sure it was looking in the right place.
To be honest, if you are going to do a lot of self portraiture, a wireless remote is a real boon. If working indoors, a fast prime lens also helps with low light although you do have to be careful of the depth of field issue BigFuzzy picked up. At least with the wireless trigger, you can set up the camera some distance away, which copensates for the wide aperture to some extent and gives a safer margin for error. Another approach, if you have a laptop, is to investigate tethering your computer. You control it via the laptop which can be kept close with the screen facing you, providing a large preview image and a much better chance to nail the shot if you want a narrow (accurately placed) depth of field for artistic effect. Wulf |
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Another quick question that i forgot to ask, that came up from your suggestions...
There is an auto or manual focus button on my camera, and there is also one on the lense... TO focus in on the face do i change it to auto just on the cam, and than switch to manual to take a shot, or do i have to change it on both, the camera and the lense? |
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Well this depends on how you want to focus it. If you want to focus it automatically, aim it at the object (make sure that its focusing on just the subject and not whats around it). To do auto, simply put the camera in auto. I would only go with auto if you really don't feel comfortable in manual, since often times it confuses what you wish to focus (so aim for an area where it won't confuse the object you intend to focus on with another surface). If it keeps messing up, then consider reading this article. If you wish to do this manually, look through the lens and change then focus until the subject seems sharp. To accomplish this, put the camera and the lens in manual (just putting the camera in manual should override the settings on the lens, but put both in manual just in case). Hope this helps.
On the question you had for Wolf, although I've never done this for myself, you can tether it to see the picture you're about to take. But he also can be referring to the ability to have a picture you take on your camera go straight to your computer. Here's the best example I could find: http://www.scottkelby.com/blog/2008/archives/1207 ---Chase Guttman Photography Tip World Last edited by cagg1120; 01-28-2011 at 05:02 AM. |
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Manual on the camera refers to taking full responsibility for aperture, shutter speed and ISO. Given that portraits are normally done under controlled conditions, that isn't a bad idea as you can take a few shots, nail the perfect combination for what you want and then keep it there.
However, that is different from manual focus on the lens. The kit lens on my D40 has a fairly flimsy focus ring so I probably would use autofocus to set it and then flick the switch to keep it in that setting. Other lenses have much more controllable focusing rings and so you could choose to use manual focus from the start. The Scott Kelby article chase mentioned is exactly the kind of thing I meant. You don't necessarily get a live preview (I don't know how it works with cameras which offer that on their LCD screens) but you get instant feedback on a screen large enough to clearly see whether the focus was right. Wulf |
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