Which settings do you shoot with the most

[FamilyPhotog]

I know that lighting, location, shadows, angle, etc. will affect a photo and will often cause changes in settings. I am shooting manual lately and I have mostly been changing around aperture and ISO depending on light, but sometimes I feel like I am just playing around until I get it right. I want to get things right in camera as much as I can, but when I shoot wide open with my 50 1.8, I get blown out shots. I shoot outdoors 90% of the time- which is my preferred method.
This weekend I have a shoot with an actor/singer, for some rep cards and promotional items. It will be outdoors, and probably early morning. My scenario would be to use my 50mm 1.8, flip around the aperture from 2.8 to as high as in the 7s. The ISO I will leave around 100 or 200, unless I don't have enough light. I usually don't go above 400. I never touch shutter speed. Am I not doing it right? I am teaching myself everything, and I am trying to understand aperture, shutter & ISO but it is so hard. I have been doing a lot of trial and error. I can't afford to do that anymore because I have paying clients that want a good outcome, and I really want to be able to provide it.
I have rambled and looked like an idiot but if I don't ask I don't learn.
Thanks!!

[SusanH1970]

Originally Posted by FamilyPhotog

I have been doing a lot of trial and error. I can't afford to do that anymore because I have paying clients that want a good outcome, and I really want to be able to provide it.

Not to sound harsh, but until you DO understand the exposure triangle and how to nail in every condition (as well as perfect focus, correct white balance, etc.), you really should not be charging. Just my humble opinion, take it or leave it.

[LeeR]

There is no shame in shooting in Auto Mode just as shooting in manual does not make you more of a man/woman/photographer. Sure, there are times your camera will make some improper assumptions and get the exposure wrong, but most of the time, like 90+%, it will be spot on. I do a lot of landscape photography using a spot meter and the Zone System to place values where I want them. I often check my results to the camera's auto setting and most of the time my setting is within a stop of the camera's; well within the reach of a good program like PS or GIMP to correct. So please, skip that machismo and shoot in auto until you can do exposures upside down and blindfolded in a windstorm.

[SusanH1970]

Originally Posted by LeeR

There is no shame in shooting in Auto Mode just as shooting in manual does not make you more of a man/woman/photographer. Sure, there are times your camera will make some improper assumptions and get the exposure wrong, but most of the time, like 90+%, it will be spot on. I do a lot of landscape photography using a spot meter and the Zone System to place values where I want them. I often check my results to the camera's auto setting and most of the time my setting is within a stop of the camera's; well within the reach of a good program like PS or GIMP to correct. So please, skip that machismo and shoot in auto until you can do exposures upside down and blindfolded in a windstorm.

Really? Someone charging clients should be throwing it on auto and hoping for the best? To learn, yes, shoot on auto, then move to program, then AV, mess with TV,and then move to M. But to throw your camera on auto because one doesn't understand proper exposure and still charging someone? Um.....ouch.

I shoot manual now but did not start charging clients till I had a very firm grasp on the exposure triangle, etc. My first few clients were shot using aperture priority mode and (gasp) in JPG, not RAW, lol!

[private]

I must say that shooting landscapes and still life is completely different that photographing a person. Auto does NOT work 90% of the time - at least in my experience. When shooting in manual, you control shutter speed and aperture. And of course WB (shoot in RAW and a lot of issues can be solved in PP) and ISO.

The 50mm is a good portrait lens. Think of the lens like your eyes. Shutter speed (how fast you blink) Aperture, your pupil, how wide your eyes are. ISO, light sensitivity.

If you are worried about blown hightlights...get a reflector, fill flash, grey card.... Its really not fair to a paying client to get portraits that YOU are not happy with. I would do it for free or a reduced rate if YOU are not happy with what you are producing...sorry :/

[SusanH1970]

Originally Posted by private

I must say that shooting landscapes and still life is completely different that photographing a person. Auto does NOT work 90% of the time - at least in my experience. When shooting in manual, you control shutter speed and aperture. And of course WB (shoot in RAW and a lot of issues can be solved in PP) and ISO.

The 50mm is a good portrait lens. Think of the lens like your eyes. Shutter speed (how fast you blink) Aperture, your pupil, how wide your eyes are. ISO, light sensitivity.

If you are worried about blown hightlights...get a reflector, fill flash, grey card.... Its really not fair to a paying client to get portraits that YOU are not happy with. I would do it for free or a reduced rate if YOU are not happy with what you are producing...sorry :/

^^ What Pat said, LOL. And, by the way, she's a VERY successful portrait photographer.

[sk66]

Begin Rant:
I must say that I choose to control ONLY the aspect(s) of exposure I care about...Even if I am in "Manual", ISO is usually set to "auto".... I shoot in RAW so unless it's a very mixed lighting situation I ignore WB.
Almost every exposure is a compromise.
I will even use Auto without guilt...but I can also "see" like my camera does most of the time (yes, I still screw up even after decades of photography) I know when the Auto will be fooled and dial in some exposure comp, or select an appropriate exposure metering pattern for the situation, or switch to some other mode etc etc..

I paid a lot of money for the capabilities of my camera and I get the best results by knowing how to use them. I can set my camera to auto and still have as much control over the exposure as you can in manual....(setting limits for ISO range, min/max shutter speed, exposure comp, metering mode etc)

And THAT'S the difference. What gear you use and how you use it has little to do with being a photographer...KNOWING how to use your gear to best advantage and getting results does.
Understanding the exposure triangle is key.....(.but it is still subservient to being able to "see" a photograph in the first place.)

I will never agree that manual mode is "the only way" just like I will never agree that a manual focus "nifty fifty" is the best choice (but it MAY be the best choice for a given individual in a given situation).

There is no shame in using Auto mode, there is no "skill" in being dependent upon it. "Talent" is another issue altogether....

End Rant....

To answer your question: I think you have a decent understanding....now start messing with shutter speed as well and you'll get there quickly. You're not doing anything "wrong", but you are not fully incorporating all aspects of control you might.
Should you be charging at this point? That depends on the results you get, regardless of how you get them....

I use aperture mode the most with manual being next (ISO set to auto within limits)

[IABoomer]

If you're using manual and changing aperture and ISO, but not adjusting shutter speed, then if the shutter is set too long, you're going to blow everything out. There is a meter built into the camera, and that meter will indicate to you in the viewfinder if things are over/under exposed. Chances are, your meter keeps blinking at you and you've never learned why.

You should be able to lock in the aperture at 1.8-2.8 for shallow DOF, lock the ISO to 100 for low noise, then adjust the shutter speed to get the exposure you want. It might only take 1/250 or faster to get the proper exposure if the situation is very bright. But, if you're locked into something like 1/30 or 1/60, that's probably why you're blowing out shots.

You could go to aperture mode, set the aperture by itself and let the camera figure out shutter speed, which you could then adjust using the exposure adjustment (+/-) settings. Spend some time with your manual to really understand how the things work and you should get better results.

[BigVinnie]

Shooting early morning your light is going to be changing about every 15 minutes. You really have to keep an eye on your exposure.

Since I use flash a lot I pretty much just shoot on manual with ISO set at 100. The aperture is set for my flash and I tweek the shutter speed to give me what I want. It is all about ratios of flash and ambient.

You pretty much have to go out and practice to figure out what type of look you want. I'm not real big on the camera making my decisions for me in this type of situation.

[MindRaider]

Originally Posted by SusanH1970

^^ What Pat said, LOL. And, by the way, she's a VERY successful portrait photographer.

Susan, I still didn't get your point...you are not being objective at all.
If the client wanted a photographer with large portfolio and xx yrs of hands on experience, he would have chosen one and paid a load of bucks.

I don't see a problem in using Auto mode but try to learn how to move into AV and M mode.
And there are many talents out there that shoot in auto and produce outstanding photos as they apply more creativity and less technique.