anti shake in body?

[Nulrich]

i have the 10d and i stll get movment when taking pics, the anti shake is turned on, i still get camera shake when zooming out or not, is there something else i need to do? thanx

[Mr Guy]

Two things to check. First is that antishake takes a second to kick in from the time you half press the shutter, so make sure it's actually engaging. The other is that it's still not a miracle worker. What kinda shutter speeds are you working with that you're experiencing the shake, and are you sure it's camera motion and not motion blur of the subject?

[Nulrich]

Originally Posted by Mr Guy

Two things to check. First is that antishake takes a second to kick in from the time you half press the shutter, so make sure it's actually engaging. The other is that it's still not a miracle worker. What kinda shutter speeds are you working with that you're experiencing the shake, and are you sure it's camera motion and not motion blur of the subject?

yeah i fugured it out my expsosure were too long and iso not night enough, was doing all the shots inside, working alot better since i found this out lol.

[mattdm]

Originally Posted by Nulrich

yeah i fugured it out my expsosure were too long and iso not night enough, was doing all the shots inside, working alot better since i found this out lol.

Rule of thumb: make your shutter speed equal to or faster than the focal length. So if you're shooting at 50mm, make sure you're at 1/50th of a second or faster. Shake reduction will buy you a couple of stops, but the rule is a bit old and not very demanding, so I find it's good to keep in mind even with SR activated.

Also, of course, SR will do nothing for subject movement.

[Usuqa]

also mind that 50mm on a crop body is actually 75mm

Theres a little green hand that you should see in your viewfinder once the shake reduction is ready.. If you have it tuned on and press the shutter before this you can actually add blur to your photos since the shake reduction is moving trying to get ready for you.

[Mr Guy]

Originally Posted by Usuqa

also mind that 50mm on a crop body is actually 75mm

Don't think of it that way. A 50mm will have the field of view of a 75mm on a 35mm body, but that doesn't change the physics of the situation as far as vibration goes because the magnification is unchanged.

[mattdm]

Originally Posted by Mr Guy

Don't think of it that way. A 50mm will have the field of view of a 75mm on a 35mm body, but that doesn't change the physics of the situation as far as vibration goes because the magnification is unchanged.

Except, if you print both the 75mm-lens-on-35mm and the 50mm-on-1.5×-crop-dSLR image at the same size, the magnification has changed — by exactly 1.5×.

[inkista]

One more thing you need to do, aside from checking your shutter speed, if you're handholding--check your handholding technique. Left hand with the palm supporting the bottom of the camera and thumb and forefinger wrapped around the lens, elbows in, feet planted, watch the breathing, etc. etc. A tripod or other support might also not go amiss. Stabilization still can't beat a tripod for long exposures.

[Mr Guy]

Originally Posted by mattdm

Except, if you print both the 75mm-lens-on-35mm and the 50mm-on-1.5×-crop-dSLR image at the same size, the magnification has changed — by exactly 1.5×.

Could you rephrase that, it sounds like you are saying that if you matched the field of view of 75mm on film to exactly the same field of view with a 50mm on a 1.5x crop body, and printed them both as an arbitrary large size with a hypothetically matching aperture and shutter speed, you'd get exactly the same picture, which you wouldn't.

What you get with a crop body is exactly what it says: a cropped version of what the same focal length would give you on a full frame sensor of the same quality.