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ken: White does change from paper to paper, but it's still (255,255,255) on a monitor. Assuming you arent overexposing it, it's a fine tool. The trick is knowing the difference between "exposed" and "blown out", which is fairly elemental.
You still shouldnt be printing your own grey cards in the method you describe.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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Actually be definition it's grey. It's supposed to have a constant value (ie a RGB value of (xx,xx,xx) and not (xx,yy,zz)).
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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Someone bought me a Spyder Cube for my birthday and I have to say, I love it.
![]() Helps me set my white balance and exposure quickly and accurately every time. It's been a timesaver for wedding shots, even if people do wonder what the hell I'm doing photographing a Christmas tree decoration
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Neil www.hargreavesphotography.com.au | Twitter | Blog | email Canon 5D2 | Canon 50D | Canon 10D 17-40L | 24-70L | 35L | 70-200 f/2.8L IS | 100L Macro IS | 135L | 85/1.8 | Sigma 50/1.4 | Pocketwizards & other lighting stuff |
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Quote:
Thanks, will check it out captain
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What is just as good as an 18% grey card is an expanse of grass or soil. Most images average out to about 18% grey or a midtone which is what you are looking at. Your camera can be fooled by an image which is considerably different in tone, such as a black cat on a heap of coal which the camera will try to make grey by overexposing, or a sheet of white snow which the camera will underexpose to try to bring the white back to grey
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