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Use the distance scale on your lens. That's about your only recourse.
Another possibility is to focus using flash or IR assist beam, the turn OFF your autofocus and flash, then shoot. Your focus should already be locked into the correct focus.
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- Sander <---- that's my name. |
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I know it's an old post but ya never know who may need it right.
Landscapes either set to infinity + MF depending on the distance or use hyperfocal Hyperfocal distance - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia For people you can also get then to hold their mobile in their face while you focus lock.
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Ptrbee Canon EOS 50D, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L USM, EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS, EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM, EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro, EF 50mm f/1.8 II Canon Lens, Sigma 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM, BG ES Grip, Pro Line Apollo 180/180 Kit, Manfroto 458B Tripod, Pocket Wizards TT1 & TT5. |
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Autofocus using a torch, that way you can see the object you're focussing on. Then switch the camera into manual.. I also use the distance scale if you have a rough idea of how far away things are... If you've got an iPhone there's a great little free app called "Simple DoF calculator" that does exactly that.. You put in the camera you use (so it knows the size of your sensor) the focal length, F stop and distance and it'll tell you the distance in front of and behind the subject your camera will focus as well as the hyperfocal distance.. In your circumstances I'd use the hyperfocal distance for setting the focus and make sure the subject was at least that far away.
Nice thing about that app is that you can sit at home and fiddle with it and see how hyperfocal length changes with focal length and f stop and decide how you'll set your camera up before you leave your nice warm house!
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Happiness is everyone and everything that's loved by you. Flickriver Portfolio Flickr |
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