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In response to Nicole's dilemma, I came up with this more definitive tutorial, guide, what-have-you. Read at your own risk.
Airshow, or air show if you prefer, photography can be some of the most rewarding and challenging genres that any amateur photographer can undertake. The excitement of jets screaming past at 300 knots, the drone of an Allison engine, and the near hysteria of the crowds can all make for a great day of photography. ![]() The Kit As with any hobby, photography in general can get as expensive as you can afford and airshow photography certainly is no exception to this. Your camera and your lenses can range from Wal-mart specials, to bank breaking behemoths, but no matter what you chose to take, the number one rule is to know your camera. My own airshow kit consists of the following: Camera: Pentax *ist DL. While no where near as popular as the Canon’s and Nikon’s (and it does garner me quite a few looks down the nose) it is small and compact. The 6.1 megapixels it offers is more than enough resolution for any application I can throw at it. Lenses: Pentax 18-55mm. A good wide lens is necessary especially for capturing that wingtip to wingtip shot of a B-17 or the cockpit of a CH-47. It also is worth it’s weight in gold for capturing those crowd vistas. Sigma 70-300mm. While not the best lens out there, but it’s the longest I have. All of the images on this page were taken on the long end of that range. A decent lens such as this and a little careful planning (to be discussed later) can lead to some amazing shots. Memory and batteries: My Pentax take SD cards and I pack no less that four 1GB cards every time I walk out the door. Ideally I’ll take as many cards as my pockets can hold, but typically I’ll have at least six on me per day. If you shoot RAW like I do, pack as many as you have. My camera also takes two CR-V3 batteries or four “AA” batteries. I’m personally a fan of NiMH rechargeable batteries and always have an extra set in my pocket. Clothing, headgear, and various brick-a-brack: Headgear. Do you like your melon to glow like a painful bright red cherry? I know I don’t. So it’s best to use that lump above your shoulders as a hat rack. Personally, I either sport a beat to death ball cap or an equally tattered boonie cap I have left over from the Army. Given a choice between the two, I’ll take the boonie every time thanks to it’s wrap-around brim. Cargo pants/shorts: Until recently this was all I had to carry my camera gear around in. Thanks to the usually insane rules regarding what you can and can not take to an airshow here in the States, backpacks are not an option and the large pockets of cargo pants/shorts made carrying all the various bits of this and that a much easier affair. Ziploc bags: Since backpacks are a no-no at most shows in the States, everything I have has to be stuffed into a pocket thus all my lenses, cards, and batteries went into these versatile clear plastic bags. This makes going through metal detectors easier since all you have to do is to hand security a clear plastic bag to inspect. Gallon sized bags are best and really come in handy if it starts raining and you want to turn one into an ad-hoc rain shield for your camera. Sunscreen: Remember the glowing red cherry mentioned above? Well, the higher the SPF the better. And it doesn’t remember if the skies are overcast or not, put it on. Forget it once and you’ll never forget it again. Earplugs: Planes are loud. Now admittedly I don’t use them because I love the sound of jets screaming by and I’m already “a wee bit deef” thanks to the Army, but a couple of sets of disposable foam ear plugs are a good idea for the more sensitive amongst us. (My kids are not allowed to go to a show without them.) Folding chairs: Some shows in the US will not allow you carry the case they come in, but a good folding chair can be a godsend. I have a couch style that I purchased at a show three years ago that serves as my primary base of operations at shows, as well as two single person chairs. Sun Umbrella: Again something that is forbidden at some shows, but strangely enough sold at them, I have two purchased at a couple of airshows over the years. One with the Blue Angels on it, the other with the Thunderbirds. These get clipped to the arms of my chairs/couch and makes picking out your spot a lot easier when away for a $7.00 polish sausage or a visit to the local port-a-stink. CamelBak: This 100oz. backpack of liquid love is my best friend. While many shows have even made these verboten, a full bladder of high quality H2O strapped to your back saves you from not only being dehydrated, but it also saves you from paying $4.00 for some tepid bottled water. Fill it up the night before and throw it in the freezer and throughout the day you will be rewarded with crisp, cool water. Comfortable shoes: This should be a no brainer, but I’m including it for friends of mine that I’ve seen in stylish sandals at shows. Chances are you’ll be on your feet from the time the show start to the time it finishes, so save your feet some heartache and wear something comfortable. (I especially hate sandals because guess the one spot most everyone forgets to put sunscreen?) Photo vest: I recently acquired a photo vest that has yet to make it to an airshow, but this is already a winner. A good vest should be comfortable and breathable and at least a size larger than you think you need. Why? So when you wear a coat, it’ll still fits. And the bonus thing about vests, security doesn’t usually have an issue with it. ![]() The Tips Shooting I could speak forever on this topic alone, but in order to keep things easy we’ll keep it simple. Generally speaking, do not shoot at a speed slower than twice the length of the longest part of the lens you are using. In other words, if you are using a 70-300mm lens, shoot no lower than 1/600. There is a notable exception to this generalization, anything with a propeller. Propeller driven aircraft are a challenge in that if you shoot them at a high shutter speed the image you capture will be unnatural looking since the propeller will be frozen in flight. A much better alternative is to shoot at a slower shutter speed and capture the ever elusive “prop blur.” Prop blur occurs when the shutter speed is adequately slow enough to capture at least some of the arc of the tip of the propeller. I usually shoot anywhere from 1/125 to 1/180, but the results are hit and miss, which leads me to this, shoot in continuous mode. Chance are greatly increased for getting that perfect shot if you hit the button and multiple frame are shot, but don’t forget to follow through. Now when it comes to static displays or shots of the crowds, I’ll jump over to Av mode. Given that airshows occur in reasonably good weather, worrying about the amount of light while shooting a lower aperture generally isn’t a problem. Shoot whatever you feel comfortable with. Location, location, location Get to the show early to scope out the best possible location to shoot with. You’ll recognize the best location one of two ways. One, it’s where all the folks with the really expensive camera toys are at, and two, it’s show center. Show center is where you’ll usually find the announcer’s cart and it is where all the action is choreographed to occur. Get as close to show center as you can and get and as far forward as you can. If you get there early enough you’ll be rewarded by being right on the fence thus preventing the snotty little kids to follow from getting in front of you and ruining your shot. Once you get that prime location, set up your chairs and umbrellas and settle back until the show starts. HAVE FUN Airshows are great. Airshows are fun. Don’t get so engrossed in shooting that you forget to have a good time. Even after dozens of airshows over the years and seeing thousands of aircraft in flight, I still get goose bumps every time a Mustang screams past. I still well up inside when ever the sun glints off the wingtips of the Blue Angels. But I no longer jump during the sneaks. ![]() Conclusions There are a lot pf resources out there about airshow photography, and don’t be afraid to use them. Flickr alone is rife with dozens of groups on the topic, but besides those, here are some of my favorite resources: Fence Check Aviation Photography (www.fencecheck.com)- Probably the single best resource out there, this site is loaded with tips, tricks, and tons of user submitted photos. Profotos Airshow Tips (http://www.profotos.com/education/pr...n2004/airshow/)- Simple, straightforward tips for shooting airshows. International Council of Air Shows, Inc. (www.icashq.org)- The end all be all of airshow listings, if you want a schedule of major airshows, this is the place. Air and Feel (www.airandfeel.com)- Photography by Françoise Guilé, arguably the most beautiful images of aircraft you’ll ever see and never thought to take. Richard Seaman Photography (http://www.richard-seaman.com/Photog...ows/index.html)- It doesn’t get any easier than this, definitely written for the layman. And of course, the Digital Photography School Forums. ![]() So whether it’s your first show, or your twentieth, go out there and have fun!
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Will Pentax K10D w/ D-BG2 grip, Pentax *ist DL, Pentax 18-55mm f3.5-5.6, Sigma 28-80mm f3.5-5.6 DL Macro, Pentax-M 50mm f1.7, Sigma 135-400mm f4.5-5.6 APOMy flickr Please do not edit/manipulate my photos without my permission.
Last edited by Gunsotsu; 01-19-2007 at 06:56 PM. Reason: Fixed some typos |
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Sweet tutorial Gunsotsu. Any tips for where to start and end the pan as aircraft go by?
FYI- if you try to follow those links you'll get a page load error. Make sure you take out the )- in the URLs to get the pages to load. Try these: Fence Check Aviation Photography Profotos Airshow Tips International Council of Air Shows, Inc. Air and Feel Photography by Françoise Guilé Richard Seaman Photography Last edited by AZ4Runner; 01-18-2007 at 03:31 AM. Reason: Had problems following the links, suggesting fix. |
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Quote:
I'm kidding... while I do own quite a few pairs of those, they are not my choice shoe for photography.Quote:
![]() Thanks soooo much for this comprehensive tutorial on the subject. I'm going to read it over several times before the weekend. And I'll say it again, you've got some amazing example shots. Thanks
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Nikon D90 | Sony NEX-3 Nikkor 18-55 | Nikkor 70-300 | Nikkor 50 f/1.4D | Lensbaby 2.0 | Nikkor 85 f/1.8D | Nikkor 105 f/2.8 VR | Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 | Nikkor 10.5 f/2.8 Fisheye | Sony 16 f/2.8 | Sony 18-55 | 2xSB600 | Orbis Ring Flash Adapter My Flickr |
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wow this is excellent Gunsotsu thank you for posting this..
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Cheers Leisa Nikon D80 | Sigma 50-500mm EX DG HSM | Sigma APO 70-300 | Sigma 50mm macro | Nikon 50mm 1.8 | Nikkor 18-70mm | Lensbaby 2.0 | SB-800 Speedlight | Black Macbook C2D Little pixels from my world . Flickr |
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Quote:
![]() Depends on what kind of image you want. There are several tips as to what makes a "good" image in the links I mentioned, but the best advice I can give with regard to that is to start shooting before you think you should. Seems like a strange bit of advice, but once you shoot a show or two, you'll understand better what I mean. Panning an aircraft is different than panning, say, a car because the path an aircraft takes is not predictable and has the added headache of happening in three dimensions. I find it best as with any action photography to get used to shooting with both eyes open. This is especially true of catching opposing passes. Catching an opposing pass is about good timing, and a lot of luck. Having a camera with a high fps in continuous mode helps, but no one would be so arrogant as to say they're good enough to do it without the aid of said mode. The way to do it is to track the aircraft tracking from the right and the moment you catch the opposing aircraft in your peripheral vision, start shooting. Sometimes you get it, sometimes you don't. You can also increase your chances of capturing them by backing off on your zoom. ![]() Not sure I actually answered your question, but shooting aircraft is about anticipation and a lot of luck. Only happy to help.
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Will Pentax K10D w/ D-BG2 grip, Pentax *ist DL, Pentax 18-55mm f3.5-5.6, Sigma 28-80mm f3.5-5.6 DL Macro, Pentax-M 50mm f1.7, Sigma 135-400mm f4.5-5.6 APOMy flickr Please do not edit/manipulate my photos without my permission.
Last edited by Gunsotsu; 01-18-2007 at 05:03 PM. |
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I appreciate that Darren. Excellent idea too considering airshow season starts soon for those of us in the northern hemisphere.
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Will Pentax K10D w/ D-BG2 grip, Pentax *ist DL, Pentax 18-55mm f3.5-5.6, Sigma 28-80mm f3.5-5.6 DL Macro, Pentax-M 50mm f1.7, Sigma 135-400mm f4.5-5.6 APOMy flickr Please do not edit/manipulate my photos without my permission.
Last edited by Gunsotsu; 01-19-2007 at 02:46 AM. |
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yes, quite wonderfully done sir, very much appreciated
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Cameras: Canon Rebel XSi (450D) Canon Lenses: 18-55mm IS kit lens, 50mm 1.8, EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Accessories: Lowepro Fastpack 250 backpack, Canon Speedlite 580EX II Flash OK to edit & repost my images in the DPS forum only. Click for my flickr The views expressed by this user should not be taken as the views of DPS.. basically if you don't like what I say, tell me, don't blame the site. |
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Since there's a 10000 character limit to posts I had to cut a bit out of the above post and felt that a few things that were cut are worth mentioning.
![]() Airshows acts are generally arranged in such a way that the really big acts happen towards the end of the show. Plan accordingly. Nothing is more irritating than an excellent day of shooting only to discover you only have 3 shots left on your last memory card to shoot the Thunderbirds. There's two ways to avoid this. One, if it's your first show and you shoot RAW normally I recommend you try shooting in JPEG or it's equivalent. You lose some of the ability to easily fix some of your mistakes, but it'll increase the amount of shots you can take fourfold (at least on my camera it does). And two, shoot only the acts that interest you. This will be difficult to do, especially if it's your first show, but once you get a show or two under your belt, you'll have a better feel for what interests you and what doesn't. (Jet trucks don't do it for me, nor does Tora! Tora! Tora!) Be prepared for disappointment. Missed timing, blurry shots, etc. Since you're shooting digital, shooting yourself happy isn't usually an issue, but don't go through the process of deleting all those less than perfect shots until after you go home. You never know what you will miss happening in the air while you're deleting those bad shots. ![]() Remember the static displays, they're easy to forget in all the excitement of the day. If I'm able to go to a show over multiple days, provided there is no change in the acts, I'll try to spend one shooting the flight displays and then another shooting the static aircraft and crowds. It's difficult to shoot both in a single day, so if you can break it up, more the better. The best airshow is a free airshow... and there ain't no such thing as a free airshow. Oh sure, some have free admission, but $15 parking. Some have free parking, but $7 polish sausages and $4 bottles of water. Some just charge you tooth and nail from the get go. Bring plenty of cash, not just plastic. Many vendors at shows these days have the ability to accept plastic, but more can't than can. So make sure you have plenty of the green stuff (or whatever the color of your currency may be) for all the little things at the show. And be sure to save some of that cash for that souvenir t-shirt, poster, or patch. ![]() A back up point and shoot isn't a bad idea if you have one. Of course this is more aimed at the DSLR folks, but you P&S types can benefit from this piece of advice too. The reason? For that buddy you brought with you. Bringing a friend, spouse, child, etc. is one of the best bits of kit you can bring with you and having a camera for them (if they don't already have one) is good so they can shoot a different perspective than you. And your buddy serves another purpose besides taking still more pictures, they can also run interference for you. By surrounding yourself with friends you thus create a force field keeping the little ones who are yammering for a better view from stomping all over you or your kit (it will happen). Tripods, bad idea. Monopods, slightly better, but still a bad idea*. Either only gets in the way and makes things more difficult. A much better idea if you can afford one (it's on my wish list, along with a Bigma) is a Bushhawk. I've seen these at shows before and panning with them is amazing. ![]() Weather for airshows generally needs to be good, but sometimes it isn't. Make sure you bring any wet weather gear you have. Especially for your camera. A cheap rain coat or small umbrella can go a long way, and all those Ziploc bags you're hauling around really come in handy when the wet stuff starts falling. I bring mine regardless of the weather report because, gasp, weather forecasters have been know to get it wrong from time to time and there is only so much room for people underneath the wing of a Viper. Shoot helos the same way you would propeller driven aircraft. The blades on a helo turn at a much slower rate comparatively speaking due to their size than a propeller, but getting rotor blur really makes the shot. I'm sure there are more tips that I can think of, and I will continue adding to this thread as I think of them. I'm also happy to field any question you may think of, so don't be shy. *-Unless you use it as a shoulder stock like I've been know to do from time to time.
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Will Pentax K10D w/ D-BG2 grip, Pentax *ist DL, Pentax 18-55mm f3.5-5.6, Sigma 28-80mm f3.5-5.6 DL Macro, Pentax-M 50mm f1.7, Sigma 135-400mm f4.5-5.6 APOMy flickr Please do not edit/manipulate my photos without my permission.
Last edited by Gunsotsu; 01-20-2007 at 02:57 AM. |
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Thanks for those additions. I'm heading to the show tomorrow when the bigger acts will be there
Reading the tutorial totally gets me all excited again.
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Nikon D90 | Sony NEX-3 Nikkor 18-55 | Nikkor 70-300 | Nikkor 50 f/1.4D | Lensbaby 2.0 | Nikkor 85 f/1.8D | Nikkor 105 f/2.8 VR | Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 | Nikkor 10.5 f/2.8 Fisheye | Sony 16 f/2.8 | Sony 18-55 | 2xSB600 | Orbis Ring Flash Adapter My Flickr |
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