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Thanks Fletch and Ken
1) Forgot to ask should we avoid hood if the sun is behind us since then the hood might throw a shadow like when we use a flash with a hood. 2) Whats the point in using hood during golden hour since then we don't have any harsh or stray light ( correct me if I am wrong) My Hood is a screw on type which can be screwed on to the CPF, and if I need to rotate the CPF all I need / or can do is rotate the hood itself ( that's why I asked that positioning question )
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Nikon D80 , Nikkor AF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR ; Nikkor AF-S VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 G IF-ED : Sony DSC H2 - 36-432mm (35mm equivalent) Believe in everything but Trust no One Visit my Photo Site |
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Thanks that was helpful
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Nikon D80 , Nikkor AF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR ; Nikkor AF-S VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 G IF-ED : Sony DSC H2 - 36-432mm (35mm equivalent) Believe in everything but Trust no One Visit my Photo Site |
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Quote:
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If there is light, there is some form of stray light that will be outside the frame being imaged, but that is still incident upon the lens and hence may cause some form of light artefact.Quite simply, a hood greatly reduces the 'risk' of unimportant light falling on the lens and leaving some trace (e.g. flare, ghosting etc) and at the same time will likely improve the contrast of the image. |
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2) Arguably the hood is more usefull in the golden hour, the low light will be more likely to be directly hitting the lens even without the sun in frame. It definately won't have any detrimental effects. As ken said the only time I can see when a hood would be a problem would be when using the pop up flash. Otherwise just keep it on. |
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Thanks Rediguana Thanks Fletch
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Nikon D80 , Nikkor AF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR ; Nikkor AF-S VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 G IF-ED : Sony DSC H2 - 36-432mm (35mm equivalent) Believe in everything but Trust no One Visit my Photo Site |
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Yes. Thank you, thank you, thank you. For clarifying my questions, expanding on them, and the answers.
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Since posting gear is totally hip these days: Canon 30D, Cannon lens of the zoom variety, Tamaron 2.5/17-55mm, currently flash shopping.
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Noob Question here
which is better the straight connical hoods or the petal ones?
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He shoots with a Nikon D40, 18-55m Kit lens. He is saving up for a 55-200mm lens and a tripod IM me midnightsoiree@yahoo.com Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/midnightmidmorning/ |
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My understanding is that the type of hood is tied to the focal length range of the lens. The wider the lens goes, the more likely you'll have a petal hood (and the shorter it becomes), and the longer you go the more likely it will be a straight conical section - especially if it is a long prime (and of course it will become longer). Also, zooms are more likely to have a petal design to accommodate the wider end of their zoom range. With zooms it is a case of the 'lowest common denominator' - in that hoods are limited by their widest focal length. E.g. a hood for a 28-135mm lens may not be as effective at 135mm as a hood for a 135mm prime, because a compromise needs to be made to ensure that the hood is not in the frame and causing vignetting at 28mm. This may be partly why primes can deliver better contrast, as they have an ideal lens hood, where as zooms have to make compromises in their hood design to try to accommodate a range of focal lengths. Of course hood design is also inherently tied to the internal design of the lens as well.
Last edited by rediguana; 05-11-2009 at 12:02 AM. |
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I have been considering getting hoods for my lenses but wasn't sure of the pupose. I currently use UV filters as protection (some of the stuff I shoot is in a dusty environment so they limit getting dust on the front element and the need to clean too often).
Does anyone have an example of hood vs non-hood shots? I am intrigued by the concept of better contrast. CG
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CG blog.inlina.com | xenonphoto.com.au | Flickr Canon 1D MKIV | Canon 450D | EF16-35 F2.8L II | EF24-70 F2.8L | EF70-200 F2.8L II | EF50 F1.4 | EF-S IS 18-55 | EF-S IS 55-250 | EF 50mm Macro | Canon IXUS65 |
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