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Hello all im new to the forum and fairly new to digital photography. I have been reading a lot on photography over the past few months and also researched in to camera settings.
I get a basic gist of what aperature, shutter speed, iso does but i was hoping someone could give me a run down or send me in the right direction to become more confident in using manual or priority more. When i think i know a bit about them my confidence is shattered by getting very overexposed pictures or to dark leading me then to stick it back on a program or auto mode sometimes spoiling my days out as i know that there was a better image to be had in manual or a priority mode. I have read that each setting you change can influence another but how exacly does that work and is this the problem i am getting? |
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Well, for a start,read your manual to find out what every,switch,every button does,read your manual until you fully understand this-Then get on to: www.morguefile.com , where you will find a free, basic photography course of 10 lessons by Jodie Coston-(Just click on "Classroom" on the Home Page). Thats where you will learn the basics of photography,then come back here and pick our brains-it is better that you come here with some photographic knowledge, then we can give further input to help you on your way.Regards, Ken
Last edited by kencaleno; 03-20-2009 at 10:04 AM. |
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You might also find the Exposure Triangle on the DPS blog helpful because it provides a few examples of ways to understand how aperture, shutter speed, and ISO all work together using different metaphors.
![]() If you're often getting the exposures wrong, don't forget to look at the meter in your camera to make sure that you're getting it somewhere near the middle of the range. Between reading articles and reading your camera manual and practicing a lot, eventually you will get the hang of it, but there's also a lot to be said for simply hands on practice.
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Nikon D90 | Sony NEX-3 Nikkor 18-55 | Nikkor 70-300 | Nikkor 50 f/1.4D | Lensbaby 2.0 | Nikkor 85 f/1.8D | Nikkor 105 f/2.8 VR | Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 | Nikkor 10.5 f/2.8 Fisheye | Sony 16 f/2.8 | Sony 18-55 | 2xSB600 | Orbis Ring Flash Adapter My Flickr |
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I highly recommend NOT using the full-manual mode for a while. Start with priority modes. A good start is aperture priority: as you change the aperture, take the same photo a few times. Look at the results and see the difference. Also look at the other settings which the camera chose automatically for you (Shutter speed, especially) and notice how they change.
Then switch to shutter priority. Find a moving object (cars, dripping water, etc.) and change the shutter speed as you shoot a few photos. Again, notice what choices the camera made for you. Only go to full manual for two reasons (yes, this is over-simplifying, but it's a start). One: to test yourself and see if you really understand how shutter, aperture, and ISO work together. Two: when you are in a situation where your camera is choosing the wrong exposure (such as night shots, when you may want a shorter exposure than your camera thinks it needs). That's my advice. Keep trying!
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David Clark Photography, project 365 photo blog, flickr. It is OK to edit and repost my photos on the DPS forums only. |
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actually, dcclark, i would totally advise going to manual.
FInd some definitions and understand what youre doing. Understand the exposure triangle (aperture, iso, shutterspeed) and how each affects image quality. Then, go into Manual and adjust them each INDIVIDUALLY. Essentially this is like re-creating the AV and TV modes, but it gives you some fun to fiddle aorund with. Moved your aperture 2 stops by accident? well, try compensating by moving the shutterspeed one and see what happens.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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Quote:
![]() Ok, here's a very simple breakdown. All three settings are about getting more or less light into the exposure (i.e., turning the picture lighter or darker). So what you're worried about with overall amount of light. But you've got three controls to do this. And each control has a trade-off.
iso 100 -> iso 200 f/4 -> f/2.8 1/60s -> 1/30s. Doubling your iso, increasing your aperture by a stop, or halving your shutter speed will each double the amount of light in the exposure and make your photo lighter. If you do all three at once, you'll get eight times as much light (three stops). All three of these factors add to the overall exposure. Now, if you jump into full Manual, you have all three of these controls at your command. And your main tool to tell you where your exposure is before shooting is the meter in the viewfinder. In all the other modes, it acts as a compensation scale. But in Manual, it's your light meter. The camera thinks that being in the middle of that scale in the viewfinder is where your exposure ought to be. And chances are good it'll be somewhere in the ballpark (although chances are also good it may not be the optimal setting). That's the main thing to look at to avoid major overe- or under-exposure when shooting in M--making sure you're not past the ends of that scale unless you mean to be. If you change settings until that "needle" is parked in the center at 0, then you're where the AE system would have put you.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list Last edited by inkista; 03-20-2009 at 07:15 PM. |
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Do you like to try a lazy person's method.
Let assume your DSLR is a film SLR and begin with setting it to manual. 1) Film speed First determine the situation is bright or poorly lit, then pick your base ISO (just like buying the right film). 100/200 for bright outdoor and 400/800/1600 otherwise. Let auto ISO takes care of the rest if your have this feature. We need an exposure meter here and you can use the DSLR as a reflective meter. A gray card will be useful until you know how to meter a scene properly. Nevertheless, just use the DSLR matrix metering for now. 2) S/Tv or A/Av mode (That's how you should be thinking. It will just be the same for deciding which camera mode to use.) Ask yourself this question. Am I shooting a fast moving object? If yes, pick a higher shutter speed (1/125, 1/500 etc). You are now in (S)hutter preferred mode. Adjust the aperture until the meter rest at the 0 or center mark (check your manual about meter reading). If you run out of apertures then lower the shutter speed. Now take the picture and adjust the aperture to compensate the error in the next round. If the object is not moving, then the (A)perture preferred mode (great for portraits). If you want shallower DOF, then set the aperture to max (f/1.2-2.8 etc). Otherwise f/5.6-11 (for landscape). Adjust the shutter speed to get the meter rest at the 0/center mark again. 3) Just meter and bracket your shoots. Then study your photos and learn from them. 4) WB is another story. Just pick a preset or auto for now. 5) Keep practicing. |
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At any rate, the point really is to try things, and if they don't work, try more things and see what changes! That's really a lot of photography right there. But don't get bogged down in the technical aspects. I shoot in P mode about 50% of the time, and in one or the other priority mode most of the rest -- if I'm looking for a particular effect. The real effort goes into composition and planning. I highly recommend working more on that.
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David Clark Photography, project 365 photo blog, flickr. It is OK to edit and repost my photos on the DPS forums only. |
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