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Manual mode is great, but make sure you get the shot too. And don't be afraid to go above 800 on the ISO.
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Canon Rebel XT or Nikon Coolpix L3. Flickr | The Photo Blog | Radio | Blog If you're going to edit, please make your edit private. I don't want my stuff floating around in other people's photostreams.
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I assume you are going to be shooting from your seat above the glass? You have to be aware of where the top of the glass is. If you get it in your photos, they will all scream "snap shots". If you can get next to the glass (maybe in warmups?) press your lens right up on the glass. If you are doing this in a game MAKE SURE YOU GET YOUR LENS OFF OF THE GLASS WHEN THE PLAYERS START GETTING CLOSE. I've seen one guy get smashed in the face with his cameras when the players checked against the boards. Take shots during warm ups. The players aren't moving so fast. Try to isolate a single player and make sure the background doesn't look like it was taken during warm ups. You can get "trading card" quality photos during warm ups if you watch your background. Get down to the glass and make sure your lens is up against it. If you are finding your photos during the game are motion blurred, change your strategy and start photographing non-action stuff. Some examples: coach yelling, goalie getting a drink, ref talking to players, ref signaling goal, celebration after goal, fans celebrating. There is a lot of stuff going on at a hockey game other than shoot score. 300mm will give you pretty good reach as long as you are not too high up in the stands. You will find that your better shots are when the action is closest to you. You may want to consider only shooting when the players are on your half of the ice. If I am shooting from a corner with my 70-200mm, I only shoot when the players are on my side of the ice. My best shots are when the players are inside the blue line. One other thing to consider is focus point selection. If you are pointing your camera in the direction of the ice, most focus systems will pick up the closest object and lock on that. Very rarely when shooting sports is the closest object to your lens the subject YOU want. YOU know what the subject is much better than your camera. Most cameras have a way to decouple focusing from the shutter button. Canon cameras allow you to move focus to the "*" or AF-ON button. If you can do that with your Pentax, I would recommend that you give it a try before you go to the game. Using a 2nd button for focus takes some practice. Take a lot of shots. Photographing hockey is very difficult. The movement is fast and sometime erratic. If you know the game, you will do better because you can predict where the action might go next. Last edited by mdruziak; 03-14-2009 at 11:30 AM. |
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A lot of time in the professional arenas the lighting is standard. ISO 800, camera on manual at f2.8 at either 500 to 1000th shutter speed, depending on just how many lights are set up for TV. But with your 7-300 lens, you might have to go at a higher ISO in order to stop the action. But pan and blur shots can produce some artistic images as well. So get your lighting set early and just have fun.
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url:www.jimbryantphotography.com http://pa.photoshelter.com/c/jimbryant http://jimbryantphotography.blogspot.com/ (3) EOS1D MKIIs', (1) EOS1Ds MKII, 14mmf2.8, 16-35mmf2.8, 28-70mmf2.8, 70-200mm f2.8, 300mm f2.8 and a 400mmf2.8. |
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Hi , everyone,
I wanted to thank you all for your assistance, I had an awesome time at the game last night - took more than 570 shots! I have posted one in the Share your photos- The linesman makes the call! I still have lots to learn, but I had a blast -- I did notice when I shot with continuous mode the lighting changed somewhat between shots - but once I learn Photoshop I may be able to correct them. thanks again PS the Canucks won the game tooo !!
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Darlene Pentax K2000, Pentax kit lens 18-55, Sigma 10-24, Sigma 70-300, Pentax 50mm F1.4 |
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