Help for indoor action shots. (Basketball)

[Michelleltn]

Today I was trying to capture some shots of my daughter and her team playing basketball.

I tried several modes. Several shutter speeds etc. (I took over 81 pictures.) Out of those-7 were able to be salvaged. These few were not extremely blurred. The biggest issue is that the pictures that came out best were very dark, but in order to get a faster shutter speed it would darken the photo. I didn't want to up my ISO because I was afraid it would get all grainy.

These in manual mode were the few that came out. I tried TV mode, AV mode, CA mode, and even auto, and sports modes. (All were either too dark or blurred when the action was going.)



Camera Canon EOS REBEL T2i
Exposure 0.008 sec (1/125)
Aperture f/5.6
Focal Length 47 mm
ISO Speed 3200
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Flash No Flash



Camera Canon EOS REBEL T2i
Exposure 0.01 sec (1/100)
Aperture f/5.6
Focal Length 47 mm
ISO Speed 3200
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Flash No Flash


Here the picture is not blurred, but it is dark. When I manually increase the shutter speed it darkens up the whole photo.




Camera Canon EOS REBEL T2i
Exposure 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture f/10.0
Focal Length 47 mm
ISO Speed 1600

So what can I do to change my settings so I can capture these shots well?
Thanks

[graciousness]

You need a better lens.

I am assuming that you are using a kit lens?

Indoor sports is a hard scene to photograph and this is where kit lenses fall short on performance. You need to use a better lens with wider aperture (f.2.8 or better if possible) and preferably, it's a zoom.

[Hill Country Hack]

I agree with above. Even with a f2.8 lens it is still tricky. To our eye it looks like enough light, but to the camera, not so much. I went to a stock show last night and knew immediately I was in trouble not having an external flash even with my f2.8 L lens.

I first went to shutter priority and dialed in 1/200...No luck even with the ISO to 800 out of highest ISO of 1600. I changed to apeture priority, opened to widest (2.8) with ISO at 800 and the fastest shutter I could get was 1/50. Needless to say, I only got maybe two decent shots out of the bunch. I was panning, bracing against firm objects, shot at the shortest focal length for the lens (70mm). I just could not get the 1:1 shutter to focal length ratio. No matter the quality of your gear, there are some absolutes one cannot work around without external flash.

Of course nobody every stands still while handling livestock. The ones I did keep are noisey. Ok for snaps, but nothing more than that. Here is the best of the group.

[Michelleltn]

These are the only two lenses I have, and I don't think they go that low. I think 3.5 is the lowest I can get the 18-55. (Which is what I was using.) My zoom won't even go that low. Is there anything else I can do to compensate? I really figured these two lenses would do most of what I want.

I eventually plan to get the 50mm 1.8 but it doesn't zoom-so if you are far, do you just have to crop a lot?

The lenses I see that go down to f2.8 are really expensive (More than my camera cost.) Ugh.

[inkista]

Originally Posted by Michelleltn

These are the only two lenses I have, and I don't think they go that low. I think 3.5 is the lowest I can get the 18-55. (Which is what I was using.)

It can only open up to f/3.5 at the 18mm end of the zoom range (i.e., zoomed all the way out). If you're at 55mm, then you're limited to f/5.6 or smaller. Which is why most of your photos were at f/5.6. The f/3.5-5.6 written on your lens is not its aperture range (unlike the focal length numbers) it's the maximum aperture at the different ends of the zoom range. Everyone gets confused by this.

My zoom won't even go that low. Is there anything else I can do to compensate? I really figured these two lenses would do most of what I want.

ISO or flash are the only other two options.

Getting a faster lens would help.

I eventually plan to get the 50mm 1.8 but it doesn't zoom-so if you are far, do you just have to crop a lot?

Actually, if you look at your photos, you were zoomed to 47mm. A 50mm lens wouldn't frame much differently. However, I'm not sure I'd recomend getting the 50mm f/1.8 II for basketball. It lacks USM, so it'll be a bit slower to autofocus than you might want. The EF 50mm f/1.4 USM might be better. Most folks would actually prefer a little additional reach, though, to get closer to the action, and the EF 85mm f/1.8 USM has been nicknamed "Mr. Basketball" on the dpreview Canon lens forum. There's also the EF 100mm f/2 USM.

Yes, it's relatively expensive ($400), but you might be able to find it for less used, and it's a LOT cheaper than even a third-party 70-200 f/2.8 zoom lens.

Yup. Good lenses are expensive. Bodies come and go. Your glass can last you decades. Unfortunately, indoor sports is probably one of the most demanding subjects you could have picked in terms of lenses.

[Michelleltn]

Thanks Inkista,

I will keep that in mind. (Maybe I need to find a camera shop where I can look for some good used lenses.)

Not sure what USM is. Guess I need to google it. (I don't know much about gear etc.) But at least now I know it is more the equipment, than me. I just kept thinking here I have this camera (2) lenses etc. and I still cannot manage very many decent shots.

[Jim Poor]

Raise your ISO and over expose a bit to combat the noise.

[Michelleltn]

Originally Posted by Jim Poor

Raise your ISO and over expose a bit to combat the noise.

So does just raising the ISO overexpose the picture or do you mean to up the metering too?

[Jim Poor]

Originally Posted by Michelleltn

So does just raising the ISO overexpose the picture or do you mean to up the metering too?

That depends on what mode you're using.

Personally, I'd shoot this with auto ISO turned on as with the limit set as high as you trust it (probably higher than you think) and use the exposure comp function of your camera to dial in at least + 1/3 stop.

[Michelleltn]

Originally Posted by Jim Poor

That depends on what mode you're using.

Personally, I'd shoot this with auto ISO turned on as with the limit set as high as you trust it (probably higher than you think) and use the exposure comp function of your camera to dial in at least + 1/3 stop.

I used manual mode, it was the only mode I even came close to getting a shot in.