Sports shoot

[vidar42]

I'm doing a sports shoot in the next few weeks and was wondering if anyone had suggestions based on the kit that I have on hand.

I'm shooting with the following :

Nikon D3000 (yeah, I hope to upgrade that soon...as soon as money permits)
18-55 lens (not likely to be used)
70-200 lens (likely candidate)
I have a doubler that I can put between body and lens, but I do lose AF when I do that.

It will be my first shoot of university level football. I do have sideline access (all access really). Any tips or tricks that may help me out?

[Quo Fan]

When I shoot sports, I use a mono pod, along with my big white lens (Canon 100-400 f4.5-5.6 L. Even with sideline access, you want the 70-200 lens to "get close". Anticipate the action, be prepared to shoot at all times. Most of all, have fun.

[Hill Country Hack]

I would say look at periodicals of the specific sport to get ideas. I was watching American football the other night and all the photographers I saw had at least two camera bodies. One long lens and one shorter to make quick switches without having to do a lens change on a single camera body.

I am attempting to get field access to the local high school football team to do some action shots. I'm planning on taking my 75-300 non IS kit lens and use my tripod as a monopod. I'm sure I will only be able to get enough shutter speed to stop action while the sun is still up.

I hope I was able to help.

[Quo Fan]

Originally Posted by Hill Country Hack

I am attempting to get field access to the local high school football team to do some action shots. I'm planning on taking my 75-300 non IS kit lens and use my tripod as a monopod. I'm sure I will only be able to get enough shutter speed to stop action while the sun is still up.

I hope I was able to help.

At a high school game, the spectator fence is typically closer than at college or pro stadiums, unless you are in Texas, where high school football is more like a religion than a sport.

[jdepould]

Originally Posted by Quo Fan

At a high school game, the spectator fence is typically closer than at college or pro stadiums, unless you are in Texas, where high school football is more like a religion than a sport.

I have a feeling the OP is talking about soccer.

In either case, 70-200 is going to be short (I've used a 400 and still been short for soccer). I'd suggest trying to get near the goal, and shooting the action there, since it's likely to be closer.

[vidar42]

Originally Posted by jdepould

I have a feeling the OP is talking about soccer.

In either case, 70-200 is going to be short (I've used a 400 and still been short for soccer). I'd suggest trying to get near the goal, and shooting the action there, since it's likely to be closer.

Actually I'm not referring to soccer, but american style football.

I will try a few things at their practice first to see what I can do with the doubling lens...

[ErikUngerPhotography]

I've only shot high school football, but in my experience with using the 70-200, I have not needed a monopod. I used a monopod with basketball because I was sitting down leaning against a wall and the monopod+wall combo gave great support. For football I am constantly going from on one knee to standing, and I also don't find the weight of the 70-200 all that bad. Also shooting at least at 1/500, I don't notice any camera shake. I can see a monopod being very useful for the 100-400 or a prime at 300 or above though.

+1 for anticipate the action, but don't be afraid to take chances. I photographed a game last night, and the 2 other photographers moved down field with the play. I stayed back with an instinct that the play may come back my way (the team was dominating the other). Sure enough, within in 2 plays, there was a fumble that lead to a touchdown and I was the only photographer on that side of the field... of course it was all the way across and even at 200 wasn't all that close. Though I did get a great celebration and reaction shots of a teammate.

its going to be hard not having a 2.8 aperture. You will probably have to push the ISO to it's max at dark.

Get low to get faces.

[NathanFranke]

Before shooting, see what your actual camera shake limit is. Tape a newspaper to the wall, zoom to 200mm, start at 1/500 and take a few pictures at each shutter speed, down to 1/2--longer if you feel lucky. Check the photos on your computer, and determine where you start to get shake. The "rule" is not to shoot faster that 1/focal length, but with this test I found that I can get good results down to 1/125with a 75-300 mm lens. A stop or two can make a huge difference.

I shot some university field hockey a couple of weeks ago, and I used my 75-300, AI Servo focusing, hand held, high speed continuous drive mode. My first attempt, and I think the shots turned out pretty well. I haven't yet gotten permission from the team to post the pics to the world at large, or I'd have some examples.

[ErikUngerPhotography]

Originally Posted by NathanFranke

The "rule" is not to shoot faster that 1/focal length, but with this test I found that I can get good results down to 1/125with a 75-300 mm lens. A stop or two can make a huge difference.

While the rule of thumb is 1/focal length, this is for slower moving subject or still life. You are going to get motion blur if you are shooting almost any, if not all, sports at 1/125. 1/500 is a good place to start for sports. You will have a good chance of stopping most motion at 1/500.

I'd love to hear others chime in, but you shouldn't need permission to post the photos online. The photos are considered editorial ad as long as they aren't used for commercial use are yours to post and print.