getting tack sharp images

[inkista]

Whoops. Looking at the max. aperture, rather than the aperture. I'm going presbyopic these days...

[SusanH1970]

Originally Posted by inkista

Whoops. Looking at the max. aperture, rather than the aperture. I'm going presbyopic these days...

Oh, you big silly head. I got scared and thought the Goddess of All Things Technical was losing her mind. Don't scare me like that again, sheesh!

[inkista]

Hey, I'm allowed to screw up like everybody else! I've been documenting API function calls all day, I'm starting to see double.

Ok, few questions:

• What was the shutter speed?
• What tripod are you using?
• Did you use mirror lock-up?
• Did you use a cable release and/or the timer?

Also, f/8 might not be enough, given that you're shooting on a full-frame, although at 17mm and near the hyperfocal like you are, I wouldn't think it'd make much difference. I don't think IS should be an issue, if you're shooting with the 17-40 like the EXIF says, since that lens doesn't have IS. Agree with everyone else that it's very hard to help you with critical sharpness issues if the only sample you can give us is websized and we don't have EXIF to judge by. If you're judging the image at 100% crop, give us a 100% crop sample.

[arlon]

With slow shutter speeds, it's really hard to get everything in focus. Too many things can move (camera, zoom creep, subjects). DOF is certainly an issue too. You may have something in perfect focus it just may not be what you wanted. I also assume you are using some sort of filter. If it's a double polarizing fader, they are simply not perfect and always leave a slightly soft image. I have a B+W 10 stop, a HOYA ND400 9 stop and decent fader. The ND400 and 10x filters are noticeably sharper than the fader. More glass you hang on the front of a lens the more distortion and such you're going to get.

Using the 6-10 stop ND filters, the little jiggles caused buy mirror slap and such really don't make much of a contribution. Shutter speeds are going to be at least several seconds, a millisecond of slap just doesn't contribute like it does with a much faster shutter. I do use my self timer a lot when I'm using ND filters, never bother with mirror up personally. Biggest issue for me is usually getting the tripod good and steady. I never seem to on solid ground when I'm shooting slow shutter speeds.

Good luck, I think maybe you're expectations may just be a little too high considering all that can go against the perfect "tack sharp" shot with slow shutters..

Nice picture! Get yourself the B+W 1000x in 77mm and some step down rings for you various lenses. You won't be disappointed if you like playing with slow shutter speeds.

[SusanH1970]

Originally Posted by inkista

Hey, I'm allowed to screw up like everybody else! I've been documenting API function calls all day, I'm starting to see double.

I don't care if you're starting to see triple or quadruple. You're.....you're Inkista. Like, you're a legend around here. You're not allowed to be human and make mistakes.

OsmosisStudios, where are you to back me up on this?????

I'm shaken to my very core and my life will never be the same.





Okay, so I'm being a little melodramatic.

[Ruchika_2011]

Sharpness depends on a lot of things. The camera lens, settings and image processing - all play an important role in rendering a sharp result. While you may be using a high quality lens, it is most of the times that the Bayer interpolation implemented by the camera manufacturers which kills the sharpness. However shooting in RAW is an effective workaround for this. It enables you to process and sharpen the RAW image to precision. You can get further explanation on the facts here.

[RichardTaylor]

With the example above there is a lot than can go wrong.

(1) Can you take sharp pics, of static subjects, in good light (ISO 200 1/400 @F11 for example) using the camera+lens only
If jpgs (possibly with in camera sharpening) look good your camera & lens are probably OK and you focussing technique is OK
IF pp'd RAWS don't look good and jpgs do then you have a problem with your pping.

(2)How do long exposure pics, on static subjects and in calm conditions, (and moderate apertures like F8-F11) of static subjects, with the camera + lens look (no filters)
If they don't look good then you haver a problem with your technique (remote release, mirror lockup, focussing skills in low light etc) or with your tripod.
You may be able to check out your tripod by trying witgh a P&S camera as the load on the tripod is a lot less.

(3) Now try using the filter on static subjects, in calm conditions. If the pics still don't look good you have a problem with the filter or your ability to focus with the filter on.

(4)Now try a HDR on a static subject, in contrasty good light, and calm conditions. If the pics don't look good then you have a problem with your HDR technique either when shooting or PPing.

Keep in mind that shooting in the real world unwanted subject motion (like fern fronds in the breeze) can be a problem, made wose when using HDR. Also make sure you are using a small enough aperture to ensure your DOF is adequate.

Hope this helps.

[Tzetsin]

I'd actually like to see a screenshot of that picture zoomed in at 100%. Make the image as high resolutioin as you can and put it on flickr or some other photo site that allows a larger resolution.

I cant tell you jack from that photo example, the resolution is too low and its zoomed way way way out (21mp is huge)

The exif data is a huge help though. It tells me that your doing most things right.

You have a great camera, a lens that should be able to give you sharp images, your using the best iso your able...

I'm not going to say its subject movement as you said its a "common" issue on all images.

I'll get right to the potatoes here and assume you know a thing or two about how to achieve sharp images.

There could be a couple things going on here.

1: As alot of people do, perhaps you just expect too much out of the L series lens. Almost everyone that doesnt have one thinks they are this god like glass that makes your images sharp down to the last tick on a deer's ass. I'll know if this is the case when i see that example screenshot of that image at 100% zoom, and higher resolution than this forum allows. ( I need to see as good a representation of 100% zoom as you can show)

2: your shooting a lot in 'soft light'. soft light generally makes soft images. You want hard lines your going to have to use off camera lighting. Those images you see in advertising where you can see every water droplet in the mist around some model in a beer ad is all done with medium format cameras and LOTS of lighting. THAT is how you get tack sharp images. manual lighting.

3: Calibration. Every camera and lens is made to within certain tolerences which arnt always the very best for your autofocus system. one lens might be super sharp, while another might be a bit soft. in this case its technical and CAN be corrected in your camera. Look up "how to calibrate canon 5dmk2" or some such thing for the best way to do this. I cant tell you how because i havnt done it... i should though as my glass is a bit soft too.

[inkista]

Originally Posted by SusanH1970

... I'm shaken to my very core and my life will never be the same. ....

[grin]. Never noticed that nearly every single one of my posts has edits, didja?