Mountain Bike Competition

[RecceDen]

Guys, need a bit of advice.

I have been asked by someone to photograph a mountain bike competition that's being run mid week.

Now I know some of the shots I want/he wants ie start of race, some team group shots winner crossing line. But I want to get some shots in the wood too.

Now looking at my kit list below you see what limited resources I have.

Will there be enough range ISO wise before there is too much grain?

Should I go SB900 on camera, or venture to off camera wireless flash?

I have not been to the course yet for a recce but I am doing that tomorrow. I will be setting the course up with the chap in charge as we both bike.

Im after some advice from people that have done sports photography like this before.

Many thanks.

RD

[sk66]

Flash on camera (tuned back some) and auto FP enabled. You could go off-camera via sync cable. Use Aperture or SS priority so the flash is in "fill" mode. I'd probably use SS with the ISO set to rather low limits (maybe 800).

I'd suggest a little practice first.

[Krusty79]

I don't have any technique advice, but I was thinking if I was in the race, there is no way I would want a flash going off in my face if I'm trying to navigate some technical downhill section. So, I just wanted to verify that you have approval to use a flash from the race officials and riders. All of the MTB pictures I've seen online use natural light.

[Doug Sundseth]

Off camera is nearly always better looking than on-camera. It can also be set to not be shooting into the faces of the competitors more easily than on-camera flash. But definitely talk to the race organizers first.

If the light is decent on the day, you can probably use ambient for key and just use flash for fill. (There's a decent short piece in the Tutorials section of the forums.)

[sk66]

Originally Posted by Doug Sundseth

Off camera is nearly always better looking than on-camera. It can also be set to not be shooting into the faces of the competitors more easily than on-camera flash. But definitely talk to the race organizers first.

True enough, but using the flash off camera with anything other than sync cable (d3000 doesn't have commander mode) will restrict the camera to standard flash sync speed (1/200) which is too slow for action unless the flash is throwing a lot of light as the primary source to freeze the action....I wouldn't generally recommend that. But if the light is not decent a slower sync speed and stronger flash may be the only option (and more problematic for competitors). Consider getting close and going wide with the 35 f/1.8 to help here.

Originally Posted by Doug Sundseth

If the light is decent on the day, you can probably use ambient for key and just use flash for fill. (There's a decent short piece in the Tutorials section of the forums.)

This is what I would recommend as first choice, using SS to freeze the action and fill for exposure. In this case on camera flash will work fine if tuned back about 1/2-1 stop.

[Doug Sundseth]

Originally Posted by sk66

True enough, but using the flash off camera with anything other than sync cable (d3000 doesn't have commander mode) will restrict the camera to standard flash sync speed (1/200) which is too slow for action unless the flash is throwing a lot of light as the primary source to freeze the action....I wouldn't generally recommend that. But if the light is not decent a slower sync speed and stronger flash may be the only option (and more problematic for competitors). Consider getting close and going wide with the 35 f/1.8 to help here.

I know the D5000 doesn't do HSS and I'm pretty sure the D3000 doesn't either. Fortunately, for an action sport, many interesting parts of a mountain bike course are not fast moving, so you might be able to get away with a slower shutter speed. And if you're at 1/200 or under (and probably 1/250 or a bit faster if you're willing to lose a bit from the bottom of the frame) you can still use flash, especially if the course has shaded areas.

Originally Posted by sk66

This is what I would recommend as first choice, using SS to freeze the action and fill for exposure. In this case on camera flash will work fine if tuned back about 1/2-1 stop.

[sk66]

Originally Posted by Doug Sundseth

I know the D5000 doesn't do HSS and I'm pretty sure the D3000 doesn't either.

What???
I was unaware of that....I just thought that was a basic function of all Nikons.
In that case, I'd probably just put the flash on camera and set it to a -1 EC.Camera A mode for fill flash function, P to fry 'em and freeze action.
The problem with the cactus for off camera is the sync speed is actually even slower than basic camera sync; probably more like 1/150.

[ororockcrawler]

I shot the Ontario Cup Pre race in may, on camera flash is a huge NO ! the riders will be blinded and officials will stop you immediatly, without flash you need a shutter of 800 or better to freeze action. a flash placed on either side of the trail with a remote trigger works well, unless your taking side shots shutter of 200-250 is fine the rider is coming at you so freezing action is easier. This is without flash using a 70-200f4, and 10-20f3.5

Mountain Bike-Super D Race and DH Practice Day May 7 - a set on Flickr