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I take thousands of pictures each year of my three year old and love photography. I recently upgraded cameras from a Kodak Z760, which I absolutely loved, to a Kodak Z950. I just assumed since it was a newer model, the Z950 would be even better and please me just as much, if not more. I was so wrong. I only know how to shoot in "auto" mode. With the Z950, if there is any bit of movement, my picture comes out blurry. The camera doesn't do well in low light, either. I have only been able to take perfect pictures in sunny outdoor conditions, while using the "sport" setting. I am very disappointed because, with a young child, I don't have time trying to figure out what setting to use. I have live-chatted with Kodak 3 times--for a total of 3 or more hours. They've told me, which may be "bunk," that since cameras have gone up in megapixels in the last 3 or so years, you now have to "work" (adjust settings, etc.) at getting a clear picture. They keep referring me to this site. I am a competent photographer (or so I thought) but need to shoot in "auto" function for most shots...don't understand all the p, s, a, or m settings. I need crisp pictures, though, which my old Kodak z760 gave me! Can you provide any help with my Kodak Z950? And, if not, could you steer me towards a camera that would provide what I need? (I don't want a cheap $75 WalMart camera but don't want an over-the-top-priced one, either. I need one that is going to take great pictures--no blur when there is movement--and is going to last through THOUSANDS of shots.) Thank you so much!
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Rentham is right...would be nice to see some pictures and some EXIF data to help you figure out what is wrong.
If I'm not mistaken, the Kodak you are referring to is a point-and-shoot model, which in itself is rather limited in manual settings. You can do it but it doesn't give you the range of aperture settings or a wide range of ISO options. But I"m also not really familiar with the camera. Ultimately I think your problems with blurry pictures are related to the shutter speed you are shooting with (or that the camera is choosing for you). That is also why it is not doing well in low light. And since you get the best pictures with the sport setting (automatically chooses a fast shutter) while outdoors (largest amount of light), I think that seals it. The question is why is this camera doing worse than the last camera in auto mode. Did you have issues in low light with the last camera? Does the flash fire in low light conditions on the new camera? If not, is it turned off by accident?
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Cameras: Pentax K5, K20D, K10D, *istDL, ZX-7, ZX-L Eagle Vista Photography - Flickr - Pentax Gallery "Anybody can make the simple complicated. Creativity is making the complicated simple." Charlie Mingus |
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Exif Data would definitely help.
However what Kodak is saying is not just bunk, I had to learn this myself. As cameras have gained in mp for the most part sensors have stayed the same size. That's more data pushed into a smaller space, gives you better quality (to an extent...) but also lessens your margin for error. Awhile back I upgraded from the 40D to the 50D and for the first week it seemed everything was blurry. I was ticked, I was shooting the same but everything sucked. I blamed the camera, I blamed the lens, everything but myself. I began doing some research and while I did find others complaining I also found what I stated above. So I looked at my technique, mostly how I was holding the camera and my breathing. Guess what? Things got better. There is a possibility you got a bum, do some shots on a tripod with a remote shutter if you have one, or the timer otherwise to test it out. |
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Okay, you guys have just lost me. I am shooting primarily in Auto (other than when I use the sport setting some). Don't know at all how to use the other functions or really care to use them. I'm not setting the aperature, etc. in auto, so I'm not sure what I should provide you. The flash is going off in auto mode--even low light level--but the pictures just suck. I'm attaching some pictures for you to see. Also, this camera is not tagged as a "point and shoot" for Kodak. It's labeled as a "performance" camera. I bought it because the shutter speed was faster than the cheaper point and shoot models, but I guess that may have been a mistake because I need a camera that I can literally just pick up and use without messing with functions. And to answer another question---no problems with the older camera in auto mode. Worked perfectly. Wish I could just buy another one of the old version.
Also, here's what little data I even understand to give you. (I don't know if it is relevant because I'm not shooting in the "P, A, S, or M" modes.) But here it is: ISO 100, f 3.5 (have no idea what that is), AF control is set to single. I just cannot get a crisp picture to save my life and am ready to chunk this camera out the window. If you cannot help, PLEASE recommend a good, simple, easy-to-use camera to me that will give me the shots I want (in auto mode, please!) |
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Won't let me mess with ISO in auto. Would changing it in the other settings affect it in auto? And, if so, what should I change it to? It has an ISO auto, 100, 200, 400, 800, and 1600. Not sure it changing it in P, A, S, or M modes would affect auto mode...but, at this point, I'm willing to try anything.
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looks like you're going to have to learn some settings!
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Nikon D7000:18-105mm VR Kit, Nikkor 35-70mm 2.8AF, Nikkor 50mm f/1.8d AF, Sigma 150-500mm f/5-6.3 AF, SB600 Web Design of Palm Beach Photo Blog Become a Fan on Facebook |
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Why not switch to P mode, the camera will still chose your Aperture and shutter but you can mess with the ISO and compensation. If you don't want to mess with compensation just leave it zeroed out and it will not affect what the camera thinks. For a dimmer room you may want to up your ISO to about 800. General rule is keep your ISO as low as you can while getting the shot you need. Hope this helps, as I'm not really sure about camera suggestions in the mid range.
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