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First of all I have never used a polarizing filter before and was wondering if you are supposed to take the lens hood off while you use it otherwise how are you supposed to turn the filter? Also, I have a UV skylight filter can I use the polarizing filter on top of that and use them both together or use just the polarizer.
Thanks!
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/rachelgingell/ "Do not wait, the time will never be just right. Start where you stand and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along" - Napoleon Hill |
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com |
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Thanks for the speedy reply! I'm using it on my Tamron 28-300mm. I'm going on holiday to Zante in Greece in 8 days time. I read just now on the 'net that its best to use it only in bright, sunny conditions as it can cause longer exposures which can cause camera shake.
I'm excited to give it a try! Hopefully I'll get natural blue skies not those fake "too blue" ones that a novice like me might get lol!
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/rachelgingell/ "Do not wait, the time will never be just right. Start where you stand and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along" - Napoleon Hill |
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Rach, if you can get a split variable neutral density filter, it would be a good investment for those bright blue skies and those bright white buildings a little exposure compensation may be in order.
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com |
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A couple of things I've noticed when using my CPL - be careful not to screw it on too tight, they can be trouble to get off if you don't have a filter wrench, all you end up doing is turning the filter around.
When trying to work out which way up it needs to go, point the camera straight up at the sky and watch the shading as you turn it around. Obviously you want the darker side uppermost! I wouldn't use it with the UV filter due to the likely vignetting. And don't forget to check for dust before you put it on! ![]() Here is a shot I took recently using my CPL, this is SOOC so no other enhancement done. The richness of the colours, especially the sky is certainly something that can't be easily reproduced in PP. ![]() Oh, and have a great holiday
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LISA Canon EOS 1000D, 18-55mm & 75-300 mm kit lens for the flash stuff. Olympus Tough 8010, waterproof, shockproof compact P&S - great for the kids. Flickr Last edited by NgaiHill; 06-13-2011 at 11:58 PM. Reason: Fixed the picture |
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Thanks again for the replies! Autofocus the ND filters come in different strenghts which one do you suggest?
Lisa! Funnily enough I got my husband to fit the polarizer on for me but then I thought Uh Oh I didn't check to see if my lens was free of dust first so then I tried to take it off and it just went round and round and round and wouldn't come off lol! I got hubby to get if off. I have now put it back in its case and will use it when I need it (and make sure lens is dust free first). By the way your photo is saying "unavailable". Perhaps you have it set to "Private" ?? tyasa81: Thanks for your tips. I'll definately bracket the shot to get the best effects. Good idea! I'll be sure to post some pics in the Critique section in due course.
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/rachelgingell/ "Do not wait, the time will never be just right. Start where you stand and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along" - Napoleon Hill |
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LEE Filters Graduated Neutral Density (ND) 0.6 Resin P6NDG B&H Exposing for the foreground will produce a washed-out, over-exposed sky while exposing for the sky will leave the foreground dark and under-exposed. Lee Grad ND filters are part clear, part neutral density (available in grades of .3 (1 stop), .45 (1.5 stops), .6 (2 stops), .75 (2.5 stops), .9 (3 stops)). They allow the transition to be blended into the scene, often imperceptibly I would say you'd want a minimum of 2 stops (.6 option), or even the one to 3 stops reduction (.9) As you can see, they're not cheap, but you will find them very useful for much of your landscape photography...kind of a nice thing to have in your bag. Don't be afraid to check other suppliers to see what they offer.
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Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com Last edited by autofocus; 06-15-2011 at 09:57 PM. |
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Thanks for the heads up about the ND filter. I have had trouble in the past with a bright over-exposed sky and underexposed foreground. That happened when I photographed Durdle Door (a famous coastal landmark that you see in all the travel brochures). I feel the "pros" always use an ND filter. Here is my shot and you will see what I am up against.
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/rachelgingell/ "Do not wait, the time will never be just right. Start where you stand and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along" - Napoleon Hill |
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__________________
Vince "...the law of unintended consequences, sometimes, you get a truly memorable photograph" Gear: Canon G2, Canon 20D, Nikon D300...bunch of lenses http://www.flickr.com/photos/20127329@N06/ www.montalbanophotography.com |
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