Focusing on Birds

[Michael_2010]

[sk66]

Originally Posted by inkista

We could start a backlit bird thread!

That I've got!


_SK11830-Edit.jpg by skersting66, on Flickr

[dlambert]

Obligatory bird-butt shot:

[RichardTaylor]

I shoot birds with a Canon 40D and now days with a Canon 100-400mm F4.5-F5.6 IS L lens. The focus limiter is usually on to help speed up focussing..

Re focussing.
I use AI servo, centre focus point only active. I am not using back button focussing. yet.
For birds in flight I start tracking the birds early to get focus to lock on.

The other thing is that the closer you are the easier it is.

Re exposure - I usually use evaluative metering with exposure compensation dialed in if necessary.
I always shoot RAW

As always lighting can make a huge difference and shooting birds in amongst trees can make for very contrasty conditions - sometimes I don't even bother.

I shoot lots.

----------------------------

Three from last week - shot in an urban environment, however all the birds are wild.

(1)

Camera Canon EOS 40D
Exposure 0.001 sec (1/1250)
Aperture f/7.1
Focal Length 400 mm
ISO Speed 320

(2)

Camera Canon EOS 40D
Exposure 0.001 sec (1/1600)
Aperture f/8.0
Focal Length 180 mm
ISO Speed 320
Exposure Bias -2/3 EV

(3)

Camera Canon EOS 40D
Exposure 0.001 sec (1/1000)
Aperture f/13.0
Focal Length 220 mm
ISO Speed 320
Exposure Bias -2/3 EV

------------------------------
@dlambert
@sk66
@inkista

Beautiful captures guys.

[RichardTaylor]

@ Michael
With the out of focus duck pic. - where was the camera focused?
Focussing on glass and water can be very difficult.


Re flash and birds.
You may find this thread, written a couple of years ago, of interest.
It was part of a series on bird photography.

Flickr: Discussing 23.12 Bird Photography: Technical: Flash (1) in !afterclass! - Architectural Photography.

[FlyingKiwiGirl]

Originally Posted by dlambert

Obligatory bird-butt shot:
]

Plenty of those!



Michael_2010, I'm fairly new to bird photography too, I've found starting on the slower moving or static birds has helped me get a handle on the various settings needed, I've then been able to up the anti on the fast moving ones. Still lots to learn though.

[Michael_2010]

All you guys do some excellent work. I think I am going to find a park bench along the bay this weekend and just sit there and shoot shorebirds until I get a better feel for the focus and a better idea about the limitations of my lens.

All of these examples have great, rich color as well as tack sharp focus. How much would you say on average is straight out of the camera and how much is taken care of in processing? I know the photo needs very good bones in order to have something to work with, but yooz guyz seem to take it to the next level. If you don't have ideal conditions in the field, do you tend to over-expose and dial it back, or vice versa?

[dlambert]

Originally Posted by RichardTaylor

I shoot birds with a Canon 40D and now days with a Canon 100-400mm F4.5-F5.6 IS L lens.

I am really loving that lens. Gotta save me some pennies....

[sk66]

Originally Posted by Michael_2010

All you guys do some excellent work. I think I am going to find a park bench along the bay this weekend and just sit there and shoot shorebirds until I get a better feel for the focus and a better idea about the limitations of my lens.

All of these examples have great, rich color as well as tack sharp focus. How much would you say on average is straight out of the camera and how much is taken care of in processing? I know the photo needs very good bones in order to have something to work with, but yooz guyz seem to take it to the next level. If you don't have ideal conditions in the field, do you tend to over-expose and dial it back, or vice versa?

Anything I post has had some processing done....when you shoot in RAW images almost always look slightly soft initially. Then there's usually BG distractions which need fixed and sensor dust spots, etc, etc... But the image does need good basics t be worth bothering with.

RE- exposure... As long as I'm w/in a stop or so I can fix it, but if I have my preference it would be to overexpose 1/2-1 stop and pull it back in post (but not for sky).

The two hardest things w/ bird photography (IMO) is lighting and setting because you have little/no control over them and often things happen so quickly it's hard to pay attention to those things.
I tend to pass on a lot of shots because they just won't come out great regardless of what I do.

[RichardTaylor]

@ David.
The Canon 100-400mm F4.5-F5.6 IS L is a very versatile lens, and not just for sport or birding. .
Like any long tele it is great for when you just want to reach in and grab things wether that be a portrait at an outdoor event, a butterfly, a bird or a racing car.
It is my most used lens.
----------------------

Michael.

For me when shooting it is usually a matter of not blowing the whites on the birds.
Then try to get the best results when PPing the RAW files.

Have a look at some of the comments on this Flickr post

Question? | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Shooting black & white birds on a bright sunny day is a nightmare, contrast wise.

Like landscapes if you can pick your time of day, and shooting position in relation to the sun, you will get much better results.
My favourite is a nearby urban wetland (20 minute drive before peak hour starts) and shoot from dawns early light for about 2-3 hours. I am looking west so the sun is behind me which makes the exposure easy.

With birds in trees if you can position your self so that the sky is darker (with the light to your back) it will help control those blown highlights through the leaves.

(1) In this example I was looking away from the sun (south) in the southern hemisphere so the sky was blue instead of blown out white. The pic was taken in very late autumn.


Taken on May 24, 2009 at 10.28am EST
Exif data
Camera Canon EOS 40D
Exposure 0.003 sec (1/400)
Aperture f/8.0
Focal Length 275 mm
ISO Speed 800
Exposure Bias 0 EV


How much PPing do I do?
I am always shooting RAW.
It depends on the pic.

(2) With something like this, that had great light, from the right, and a nice clear background though it was shot in urban parkland. I was using a mono pod.
Crop, a Light room preset applied (like camera faithful and punch) to give it a bit of saturation and contrast and levels adjusted if need be,
Final sharpening is done in CS4 so it looks good on the screen.
If you have a good capture you don't have to do much sharpening.

Taken on February 20, 2011 at 8.32am EST (summer)
Exif data
Camera Canon EOS 40D
Exposure 0.008 sec (1/125)
Aperture f/5.6
Focal Length 400 mm
ISO Speed 800
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Flash Off, Did not fire

(3) With backlit shots like this, and with a messy background.
Quite a lot of PPing.
Beside the steps above
Selective blurring, and a bit of cloning out rubish, on the backdrop.
Selective exposure adustment to bring out the beak, some of the birds body, and highlights in the water
Selective sharpening of the bird and water as needed.
A mono pod was used.



Taken on August 17, 2008 at 11.18am EST (A bright sunny winters day)
Exif data
Camera Canon EOS 40D
Exposure 0.001 sec (1/1000)
Aperture f/6.3
Focal Length 400 mm
ISO Speed 200
Exposure Bias -1 EV (to control the whites on the pelican)

Lastly in line with Steve's comments.
Birding is very much like some out door sport photography.
You can't control your subject.
You cant control the lighting.
And you cant always control your shooting position.

Also keep in mind that you don't see our failures (unless it is to illustrate a point) and practice does really help a lot.