Night Glow Balloon Fest- how could I have improved

[FlyingKiwiGirl]

Just before I found this great site in March I attended a Night Glow Balloon Festival. I did a quick Google to see if I could pick up anything to help me take some decent photos. Most of it was gobbledygook (then, now it makes so much more sense) but I picked up a few things. I had my tripod and I used the self timer. A low shutter speed and a high ISO was suggested or drop the ISO and close the apeture which is what I believe I did.

We got there early and got a good spot but as you can probably imagine the place was packed by the time the Glow started, no chance to move about or re-frame the shots and dozens of people in front with their cameras too. Initially there was plenty of twilight but I believe they left the fully inflated mode until it was too late, it was pitch black so there was no background light to help. The other issue was when the blowers were turned up every minute or so the balloon movement increased as did the light.

Any suggestions to help me get better photos next year? Thanks.



Exif data
Camera Sony DSLR-A350
Exposure 3.2
Aperture f/18.0
Focal Length 18 mm
ISO Speed 100
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Flash Off, Did not fire

This one is when the blowers were turned up-


Exif data
Camera Sony DSLR-A350
Exposure 6
Aperture f/18.0
Focal Length 40 mm
ISO Speed 100
Exposure Bias 0 EV

Maybe next year I'll head there during the day when the colours are fabulous. It wasn't a totally wasted trip as I managed to get some great fireworks shots-

[RichardTaylor]

In conditions like this I would have used a very high ISO (1600+?)
Shoot aperture priority wide open and taken what ever shutter speed you can get.
If the shutter speed falls below what I can safely hand hold (and that is lens dependant) I would have used a tripod.
If I have room to move with the shutter speed I would consider reducing the ISO and or the aperture a couple of stops at the very most and never ever to F18. However I am quite happy shooting at high ISO if need be.
Shoot RAW to give more leeway when PPing (especially in noise reduction).

Know how to read your histogram to determine if the exposure is correct or not (don't believe the image on the screen on the back of your camera)
Use exposure compensation if need be (this may depend on how you are metering the scene).

If you have any fast lenses (F2) make sure they are in your bag. They may be a lifesaver although with image stabilised lens for slow moving subjects like this you may be ok .

It is possible to shoot hand held in very low light, with the right gear. I can post a couple of examples if you like.

[jdepould]

Moved to technique.

The biggest thing for me is that you're too far away. I'd start around ISO800 so you could get a faster shutter speed.

[FlyingKiwiGirl]

Thanks Richard once again for some good information, just a pity I can't try it all out now. I've printed this out and it's safely filed for next year. Do I understand right; a "fast lens" has a large aperture which lets in a lot more light so shutter speed can be fast which catches the action? What would the minimum aperture be to be considered fast?

Thanks Jamie for your suggestion too. Unfortunately that was as close as I could get, over 80,000 people attended the night glow and by the time night fell we were packed in like sardines. We actually got there early and chose a bank area so we could get an overall view of the balloons, next year I think I'll take up a position close to the fence and concentrate on just a few of the balloons.

[FlyingKiwiGirl]

I was just thinking....
would a "fast lens" be the best way to capture my bird shots in the dark bush?

[candleman]

Originally Posted by FlyingKiwiGirl

Thanks Richard once again for some good information, just a pity I can't try it all out now. I've printed this out and it's safely filed for next year. Do I understand right; a "fast lens" has a large aperture which lets in a lot more light so shutter speed can be fast which catches the action? What would the minimum aperture be to be considered fast?
.

Yes.. exactly right.


"fast" is subjective
prettymuch anything under f/2.8 could be considered fast.


The biggest issue I see in those images is the f/18
Crank that Aperture wide open, knock the ISO to 800ish

Now, as for Aperture Priority Vs. Manual exposure... I would avoid Aperture priority here.
(unless you spot meter off the glowing balloon)

If you rely on Aperture Priority to find a shutterspeed for you here and you dont fully understand the Metering Modes properly... all the darkness around is most likley to cause the camera to choose a shutterspeed too slow. (because cameras are stupid, and most people dont use their metering modes properly).

I'd personaly spot meter off the middle of a balloon, and get a suitable shutterspeed in Manual mode.
In this situation, You will find you can select a faster shutterspeed in M than Aperture priority wil try make you use

[FlyingKiwiGirl]

Originally Posted by candleman

Yes.. exactly right.


"fast" is subjective
prettymuch anything under f/2.8 could be considered fast.


The biggest issue I see in those images is the f/18
Crank that Aperture wide open, knock the ISO to 800ish

Now, as for Aperture Priority Vs. Manual exposure... I would avoid Aperture priority here.
(unless you spot meter off the glowing balloon)

If you rely on Aperture Priority to find a shutterspeed for you here and you dont fully understand the Metering Modes properly... all the darkness around is most likley to cause the camera to choose a shutterspeed too slow. (because cameras are stupid, and most people dont use their metering modes properly).

I'd personaly spot meter off the middle of a balloon, and get a suitable shutterspeed in Manual mode.
In this situation, You will find you can select a faster shutterspeed in M than Aperture priority wil try make you use

Thanks candleman, you explain it very well. I just hope my brain can contain it all. I think I understand. The problem is at the moment I am trialing all modes along with all the whistles and bells of my camera, I'm on a steep learning curve and I'm finding I understand it reading it here but then I get out in the field andit all flies out the window. Practice, practice & practice again. I've added your points to my notes for next year too.

One thing that has me confused- is a fast lens & a macro lens one and the same? Both have wide aperture. But you couldn't use a macro lens to take the balloon photo, right? How does that work.

[candleman]

Originally Posted by FlyingKiwiGirl

Thanks candleman, you explain it very well. I just hope my brain can contain it all. I think I understand. The problem is at the moment I am trialing all modes along with all the whistles and bells of my camera, I'm on a steep learning curve and I'm finding I understand it reading it here but then I get out in the field andit all flies out the window. Practice, practice & practice again. I've added your points to my notes for next year too.

One thing that has me confused- is a fast lens & a macro lens one and the same? Both have wide aperture. But you couldn't use a macro lens to take the balloon photo, right? How does that work.

no problem. ..only for next year? what's happening then...

a "fast" lens is basically only referring to the maximum Aperture.
IE. the size of the hole that allows the light in.

I have little experience with Macro lenses, but i know that simply because it's a macro lens, it doesn't mean it can't be used for other things.
EG. a Nikkor 105mm 2.8 VR is a great Macro lens, but also makes for decent portraits.

[RichardTaylor]

Macro lenses allow you to focus close as well as infinity (for most of them).
Some of them are can be fast (F2) or reasonably fast (F2.8)
Focussing can be slow so you wouldn't want to use one for tracking some fast moving objects at a sporting event,however providing the focal length meets your needs you could take the balloon pics with one.

A lot of people tend to think of lenses as being a bit spe******ed, like a "landscape" or "portrait" or macro lens.
Most if them are quite capable capturing images over a range of subjects.
For example a macro lens is great at taking very close ups, however it can be ok for portraits and 'scapes. Sometimes it just means you take a different style of photograph.

[FlyingKiwiGirl]

Originally Posted by candleman

no problem. ..only for next year? what's happening then...

Another Balloon Fest over Hamilton of course! That will be the only time I'm likely to see a balloon again (and be able to trial the suggestions) unless one miraculously flies past my window someday soon.

Thanks Richard for your explanations, things are starting to make sense now. I do eventually want to purchase a macro lens but I'll sure as h*ll be reading up alot about them before then, and asking a lot of questions.

Silly me, I always thought the aperture was in the camera(body) obviously it's in the lens.So why don't lenses have a wide aperture anyway? I understand there would be spe******t lens but why doesn't your general middle of the road lens have a wide aperture ie my 18-250 has a maximum(or is that minimum) aperture of f/3.5. Quality maybe? Hope these aren't darft questions; no question is a stupid question if you don't know the answer, right?