Sunny 16 - Does this image look right?

[maturner525]

Hi,

I took this today using the sunny 16 settings but it seems underxposed to me. I live just north of Atlanta Ga I have good sunlight. Here is the EXIF data and the image...

Camera Model Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XS
Shooting Date/Time 4/7/2011 2:19:01 PM
Shooting Mode Manual Exposure
Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1/100
Av( Aperture Value ) 16.0
Metering Mode Evaluative Metering
ISO Speed 100
Lens 70-200mm
Focal Length 70.0mm
Image Size 740x493
Image Quality Fine
Flash Off
White Balance Mode Daylight

I have not retouched the image in any way.. just resized id and uploaded.

[autofocus]

it's a pretty high contrast image and if you bumped the exposure up further it probably would have blown out the highlights

[maturner525]

hmm.. ok, I'll try again tomorrow on a less contrasty image. Hopefully it will be nice and sunny again.

Mark

[jdepould]

Looks OK ... what did the meter say?

[maturner525]

*sigh* I didn't take notice. I'll pay more attention to it when I try again tomorrow.

[kevingeary]

Originally Posted by maturner525

Hi,

I took this today using the sunny 16 settings but it seems underxposed to me. I live just north of Atlanta Ga I have good sunlight. Here is the EXIF data and the image...

Camera Model Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XS
Shooting Date/Time 4/7/2011 2:19:01 PM
Shooting Mode Manual Exposure
Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1/100
Av( Aperture Value ) 16.0
Metering Mode Evaluative Metering
ISO Speed 100
Lens 70-200mm
Focal Length 70.0mm
Image Size 740x493
Image Quality Fine
Flash Off
White Balance Mode Daylight

I have not retouched the image in any way.. just resized id and uploaded.

What are you trying to accomplish? If you're a portrait photographer, the sunny 16 rule isn't going to do much for you.

I'm also from Atlanta...what part are you located?

[maturner525]

Well im new to photography and I've read all over the place that the "sunny 16" rule is a good reference point to start with when figuring exposure in bright sunlight. Then adjust from there based on what you need to do. I've tried a couple of times with it and it always seems to be underexposed. This is the first time I've gotten an image that looks somewhat close to a proper exposure (I know thats subjective depending on what you are trying to do). That being said, I went out on Saturday close to the same time the photo above was taken and looked at the same spot with the same settings.. My meter was saying that it was underexposed 1/3 to 2/3 stop. It seems to be in the ball park for a good starting point for me to learn from. I'm thinking that it may be underexposed a bit because of the subject.

Currently I dont have a particular thing im working with as far as subject matter. Most of what I've been working with is indoor sports because my granddaughter is a willing subject and is in competetitive cheer (I finally got a lens to work with - a 70-200 mm F2.8) I'm looking at various ideas and seeing what fits to go more in depth. So basically this is a learning exercise for me to help me with exposure adjustments and lighting.

I've read alot of material and am getting the hang of my camera's settings and abilities. But thats where Im at so far.

Mark

[autofocus]

Mark, I wouldn't get too hung up on the sunny 16 rule, unless you have a camera without a working meter. By shooting everything at f/16 you're also not taking advantage of your ability to control depth of field, unless you do a lot of calculating with the aperture-shutter relationship. It's nothing more than a general guide that probably goes back to the days of not having meters. And as you shoot outdoors with all the dynamics of light, you're far better off to rely on your meter. What's probably more important is to learn how to read light, and what impact it will have on your exposure. Back lighting a subject is particularly problematic. It'll almost always wind up with a subject being underexposed. Contrasty subject matter can also present it's own set of exposure problems. Digital shooters usually opt to preserve the details in the highlights at the expense of blocked details in the shadows. I'd be willing to guarantee that if you stick to the rule, you will run into exposure problems at those times when correct exposure gets a little tricky, like in the above situations.

[maturner525]

Oh, no worries there. I was just going to use it as a quick reference point to start with for playing with manual settings. I wouldnt use F16 all the time by any means.. its on the fuzzy side of sharpness by a stop or two anyway. I mostly use Av or Tv depending on whether I want to specify F-Stop or Shutter speed.

I figure if I can learn as much about manual as possible then I'll be better equipped to be able to make quick decisions and still get the exposure I want when I want to get more creative then Av or Tv allows.

Mark

[Elmo]

Why not use the meter, you paid for it.

As for the rule it will give an overall good exposure in this case the bricks are close to middle gray and appear close to me.