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I know that you can use a neutral density filter to allow longer shutter speeds for waterfall photos.
I saw somewhere the number "eight" in correlation with the strength ND filter that you want for waterfalls. Some ND filters are labeled 0.3 or 0.6 or 0.9, but some are labeled with the number of stops of light it cuts down. So, what number should I be looking at, and can anyone tell me what ND filter is good for taking photos of waterfalls in daylight? Thanks.
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-Indigo D90, Minolta xg-9, Petri gx-1 A bunch of glass, mostly old, manual lenses. Flickr |
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Re the numbers.
See this. How To Use Graduated Filters What to use all depends on (1) light levels (2) What minimum aperture do you want to use?. (3) What is your camera's minimum ISO? (4) How slow do you want the shutter speed to be. In other words how "milky" do you want the waterfall to look. That also depends on the waterfall. Personally I would go for a ND 8 for maximum flexibility. Here is an example: Taken at 1 second in daylight (very light cloud) , but in a forest where the light levels were low. I did not like the pics taken at longer exposures as they were too milky. A ND filter was not used. ![]() Camera Canon EOS 5D Exposure 1 Aperture f/13.0 Focal Length 200 mm ISO Speed 400 I can post pics at 2 & 10 seconds and stream closeups of 6 seconds if you like.
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Flickr stream. http://www.flickr.com/photos/34094515@N00/ 500pics stream http://500px.com/Richard_Taylor Last edited by RichardTaylor; 01-25-2011 at 12:06 AM. |
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Okay, when you say "ND 8", what exactly is that number? That is the part I am having trouble with.
Found this: Quote:
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-Indigo D90, Minolta xg-9, Petri gx-1 A bunch of glass, mostly old, manual lenses. Flickr |
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Three stops NDx8 (in Hoya terminolgy.)
(2 is one stop (1/2 the light comes through)) (4 is 2 stops (1/4 the light comes through)) (8 is 3 stops (1/8 of the light come through)) See this page from Hoya. HOYA FILTERS - The Difference is Clear B&W terminology is different See this PDF (from B&W site) https://www.schneideroptics.com/info...dbook10_11.pdf
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Flickr stream. http://www.flickr.com/photos/34094515@N00/ 500pics stream http://500px.com/Richard_Taylor Last edited by RichardTaylor; 01-25-2011 at 12:28 AM. |
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I see, different manufacturers have different terms. So confusing.
Thanks for setting it straight for me.
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-Indigo D90, Minolta xg-9, Petri gx-1 A bunch of glass, mostly old, manual lenses. Flickr |
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Even if most manufacturers use different nomenclature, they'll all at least give you how many stops of light it blocks.
I have a 3-stop as a general-use filter for certain things, but have a 10-stop for super long daytime exposures. I sometimes stack them.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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another thing you can use is a polarizer. I find this useful when shooting waterfalls because there's often wet rocks around the waterfall, and a polarizer can remove the reflection. Then if I need to reduce the shutter speed so more, I add a neutral density filter on top.
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Nikon D7000, 16-85mm, 55-300mm, 35mm 1.8, Sigma 30mm 1.4, Sigma 50-500mm Olympus E-PL2 Infrared flickr View my Blurb books Vote for my JPG Mag entries |
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I use a variable ND (Light Craft version) 2-8 stops....
They are on the expensive side, but get a large one and step up rings and one filter does it all.
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Steve the Photographic Academy.com My Portfolio, My Flickr, My Blog D4, D7000, G10, 1030SW and a bunch of other stuff.... |
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I use the Cokin system Welcome to COKIN.COM. I have 1,2 and 3 stop NDs and a CP, I can combine up to three at a time for the effect that I need. I have read people saying that there is a color cast to them, but I have been using them for many years and have never had that problem.
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