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I'm sure one of the more experienced members will be along to comment about the fringing, but I am more interested in your use of a polariser with that lens. I've read many discussions about that and most say NO polariser with an ultrawide. What are your general thoughts about that? Do you like the effect you get while using the filter?
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I use a CP on my 10-20mm many times -- what is the problem you are talking about?
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Nikon D700, D300, D5000, NIKON GLASS 85mm F/1.8 D, 105mm f/2.8 Micro AF-S VR, 70-200 AF-S VR f/2.8, 28-300 AF-S VRII,10.5mm Fisheye, 24-70 AF-S f/2.8, TC-20E II AF-S, Sigma 12-24 HSM, Sigma 30mm f/1.4 HSM, Sigma 150-500 OS, 2 SB-600 Speedlights, Manfrotto 190MF3 tripod & 322RC2 ball grip head. - NJ, USA Flickr Photobucket Ok to edit and repost my shots on DPS forums |
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There are couple reasons CP's don't always work on wide angle lenses. First, the polarizer effect works best when you are 90 degrees to the sun. As you get closer to the sun, the polarizer effect changes. This "transition" can become very noticeable with wide angle lenses. As an example, you might see changes in the blueness of the sky from white to dark blue. The narrower your view, the less this change is perceptible.
Also, depending on design, many very wide angle lenses can't use a filter as you will see it in the photo (the field of view is actually close to 180 degrees). Hope that helps!
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Cameras: Pentax K5, K20D, K10D, *istDL, ZX-7, ZX-L Eagle Vista Photography - Flickr - Pentax Gallery "Anybody can make the simple complicated. Creativity is making the complicated simple." Charlie Mingus |
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Thanks for the reply. I now understand more fully that the angle may be 90 degrees at the centre of view to the sun, but obviously a super wide angle, by definition, is going to include more image either side of 90 degree consequently reducing the polarising effect. Simple when you think about it I guess! Thanks again.
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To the OP.
The fringing is likely normal - an aberration of the lens design. As for what you can do about it - depends on the lens, The fringing will probably be reduced by stopping the lens down - for that lens, I don`t know how far you must stop down. Also - The fringing is likely to occur where lines or edges are contrasty - a lower contrast day would probably ease some of that. A different wide angle lens with a better optical formula is another (very expensive solution). Most lenses have their foibles - wide angles tend to suffer from fringing. If you shoot in raw - or with a newer camera in jpg - you can do some software removal of fringing - but it may not be enough. A program like DXO optics pro will have very high quality measurements of fringing at different focal length and aperture - allowing for software correction of the fringing and lens distortion. Side note about polarizers. Superwide won`t reduce the effect of the circular polarizer. I think reduction implies a uniform lowering of the effect. Instead you will get uneven polarization through the whole image because the polarizer is dependant on the light`s angle. So you can imagine a horizon from left to right - with full polarization affecting the middle, but fading to little effect on the left and right sides of the image. |
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Quote:
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LenDog's Flickr |
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The fringing is normal, but it's exaggerated by the editing (what looks like HDR).
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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