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1: Getting "sharp" focus isn't terribly accurate. Getting ACCURATE focus is important: how sharp something looks depends on the lighting of the scene and the sharpness of the lens. Your macro should be able of very sharp photos if it's used properly. I doubt it's an equipment problem. If you're shooting portraits, for instance, try getting a catchlight in the subjects eyes: that usually is a good indicator of proper focus.
2: Spot metering uses only the area under a focus point for metering where as partial uses that and the area around the focus point. You meter wherever you've set a focus point, whether that's the centre or a side point is up to how youve got the camera set up. 3: Depends on format, not size. Certain formats are Lossless, which means they dont lose quality as you save them. These are almost always larger files.
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I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
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Agreed with everything Adam said, but also wanted to add that for a photo to be in focus, shutter speed is also key. If you're shooting at too low of a shutter speed, you're likely to get camera shake which leads to blurry photos. A good rule of thumb to follow when shooting hand-held is to not let your shutter speed be a lower number than your focal length. For instance, if you're shooting a portrait with your 60mm macro (which is actually a pretty nice portrait lens btw) on your XSi which has a crop factor of 1.6, you shouldn't shoot lower than 1/100 SS (on the crop sensor 60mm is more like 96mm).
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