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Ok, been noticing a slight problem I seem to keep having with my focus. I'm having the same problem over 3 different cameras and two different brands. So I'm pretty sure the problem lies with me.
Basically, I find too many of my shots to be slightly out of focus and I can't seem to figure out why. It happens with all different types of shots for me. The focus seems close enough that only those of you who know what you're looking for notice--the casual observer doesn't really notice it. I almost always shoot by selecting my focal point and, on many of the shots, I remember I had the focal point spot on where I wanted it to focus but I seem to just miss the spot too often. I do get good shots but still missing too many. Now, in most of them--wrestling shots--I'm shooting with a large aperture (f1.8-2.8) so I know it's easy to miss the mark since my DOF is so narrow but I've had it happen on smaller apertures, too (talking like f5.6-7 not REALLY small). I've gotten it with lenses with some form of optical stabilization enabled as well as lenses with no stabilization. So I'm not sure it's camera movement, however, I'm wondering if it might be me pressing the shutter in some way making me move the camera ever so slightly moving what I'm focusing on? I know it's difficult to describe but I don't know any other way to describe it. I'm hoping it's something simple someone here will go, "That's easy, happens to a lot of people..." kinda thing. Thanks for looking. Hoping someone can help, it's a bit frustrating. |
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Just Kidding. I know for me, its due to camera shake, even the little bit of hitting the shutter release. Work on breathing and have a very steady hand, If you are shooting hand held, look for something to lean against. If possible use a tripod or a mono pod. Also as I am sure someone is going to ask, post up a pic or two showing the problem, with the Exif data.. Mostly its all about practice practice practice
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[Body] Nikon d3100 | [Glass] Nikon 18-55mmVR | Nikon AF-S 55-200 | Nikon 35mm 1.8 AF-S [Flash] Nikon SB600 | [Other] Sears 28mm f2.8 | Nikon 50mm f1.8 E | Tokina 80-200 f/4 | |
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Most of my recent shots have been shot with a 50mm prime. Here are some shots I took with a Nikon D90 and the 50mm. All shot at f2.8 ISO 1600. Shutter speeds ranged from 1/250 to 1/400.
Picasa Web Albums - GadgetRick - Wrestling Feb... |
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But the images really don't look that bad. When shooting indoor sports you won't get pristine, noiseless images. A friend of mine shoots a lot of college basketball and volleyball for the school newspaper and says as a photojournalist he doesn't mind a bit of noise as long as he captured the important moments. |
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Especially if you are shooting in JPG, your camera is applying some noise reduction for you. You can't stop it. By necessity noise reduction softens your image -- some software is better at retaining detail but there's no way around some loss. You can certainly sharpen after the fact, but noise reduction and sharpening are sort of mortal enemies. They're going to be fighting each other. I would say a good start would be an unsharp mask no stronger than radius 3, threshold 0.3. Play with it from there and see what you like. If you shoot in RAW you have some more control over the noise reduction, and actually that will give you a good idea of the impact of NR to overall clarity. |
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Ok I always shoot in RAW and most of those images were run through Noise Ninja. I know you have a lot of control over NN and how it applies noise reduction. I need to learn more about that so it doesn't apply it to things like the faces since there's usually not noise there. Hmm, might be getting closer on this. Thanks...
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Hopefully 1/250s is fast enough, but have you tried increasing the shutter speed? (maybe opening up to f/2?) I'm seeing a tiny bit of motion blur.
For the shutter button--try thinking of it as "rolling" your finger over the button, rather than pushing. Also, make sure you're supporting most of the weight of the camera body on the palm of your left hand, with thumb and forefinger curled around the base of the lens for added stability. Are you in AF-S or AF-C? And are you using the center AF point? (it's your only cross-type sensor in the array). Is your 50 the f/1.8? or the AF-S 50/1.4? If the Nikon 50/1.8 is anything like the Canon 50/1.8, its autofocus performance may not be as fast or sure as the AF-S 50/1.4. So, using AF-C may help you keep up with the movement.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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^^^ Also keep in mind that if in AF-C that the shutter will release even if focus hasn't been achieved. This is opposed to AF-S, where the shutter will not release until focus is achieved. I can see both scenarios causing blur in certain (rare I'm sure) circumstances. If in AF-C, shooting in dim lighting at a low contrast subject, the camera may not have time to achieve focus before the shutter button is depressed. If shooting the same scene in AF-S mode, there may be a slight lag (as it tries to achieve focus) between the time the shutter button is pressed and the time the shutter actually releases. If the camera holding technique doesn't account for this slight delay, camera shake could be introduced.
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Your comment on rolling my finger over the shutter button is interesting. I'll have to try that. All of these shots were with me laying on the mat in a prone position supporting the camera with my left hand under the body. So it's about as steady a position as I can shoot in. ![]() Those shots were with the f1.8. I have the Canon f1.8 now as well and I may wind up looking at one of the better 50mms. I'm actually considering an 85mm since I'm having to crop more than I'd like. |
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