|
||||
|
Quote:
Most proper birding photography is done with VERY long lenses with large apertures at VERY high shutter speeds. Birds are deceptively fast. You're looking at, at the very very least, a 400mm f/2.8 lens.
__________________
I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
|
|||
|
A good question. One way I like to do this kind of research is to find photos online and see what I can learn from them. You can do a lot worse than starting with a flickr search. We can get EXIF data for most shots on flickr to help, unless you're some kind of camera psychic.
So, here's one, and in the EXIF I see that this is a Canon 400D (not a high end camera!) taken at 186mm, f/7.1, 1/2000th. So, the photographer was actually pretty close, and there was probably a lot of light, a sunny day. The trick here is the shutter speed, that froze the action; the key is the ISO 400 setting. That's what allowed such a fast shutter at a moderate aperture. I can't see more lens info so I can't tell what lens it was taken with, but at f/7.1, even a cheap 18-200mm off-brand can be pretty sharp. And, looking at tags, I see it's a Sigma 150-500, a pretty good lens but not L glass. Also note this was taken in aperture priority, so the photographer chose f/7.1, hopefully for a reason (we always choose our settings for a good reason, right? Right?), probably for sharpness. Okay, so this tells us a lot, right? You want some telephoto action, you want to shoot fast, you want a relatively high ISO to help shoot fast. Okay, here's another and its EXIF. Now this was taken with a 1DMkIII -- not cheap stuff. I'll bet that helped. 1/1000th of a second is twice the time as the previous photo, and it shows -- look at the motion blur on the wingtips. That can be a creative decision, up to you, but it's good to know what speeds will stop what motion. And hey, this guy was nice enough to give us tons of info added here, so we know he used the Canon 100-400 (see a rough pattern), locked out at the far end, and wide open for that length at f/5.6 He also shot at ISO 400 -- I'll bet ISO 800 and 1/2000th would have worked fine and really frozen those wings, maybe he knew this and made this choice, or maybe he (like me) just picked a setting and ran with it for a while -- he's on shutter priority here, so he's dialing in that 1/1000th. So, a couple good examples, there's lots more if you want to do some extra research. Now, this is mainly useful to know what gear people used, though as you can see you can guess at technique a little. If you want to know more about technique, that's a different story -- you'll want to study your subjects to know their habits, learn some panning, be anticipatory, etc. -- but this is a good start. Last edited by BCampbell; 02-19-2010 at 04:50 PM. |
|
||||
|
Quote:
ya have to look thru the eye thingie.. not the screen on the back of the camera.. i guess finding the subject in flight and panning?? thanks for the info...
__________________
Cannon Rebel T3i EFS 18-55 EFS 50 mm 1:1:8 Quantaray 70-300 mm 1:4-5:5 tele macro(1.21) Cannon 70-300 1.4 L USM |
|
||||
|
Quote:
In terms of finding and tracking the bird, the easiest thing to do is simply shoot with both eyes open. The one that's not looking through the viewfinder can tell you where to point the lens to find the bird in the viewfinder. Simple as that. Then it's "just" a matter of getting an autofocus lock. If you're going for larger birds, though, they tend not to dart about as much, so it's easier to lock onto them. Pelicans, cranes, seagulls, hawks, eagles are generally not that hard to focus on in time to get the shot. The hard part is getting close enough to fill the frame (hence the 400mm). Passerines and hummingbirds are a whole other issue. [grin]. And, as everyone's saying, higher shutter speeds are required to freeze the action, so higher iso settings are likely to be what you want to use.
__________________
I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list Last edited by inkista; 02-19-2010 at 09:55 PM. |
|
||||
|
The live-view on dSLRs is essentially useful for two things: Product/macro work and landscapes. Anything moving is viewfinder only.
__________________
I am responsible for what I say; not what you understand. OsmosisStudios Gear List |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Each day we send out a quick email to thousands of DPS readers to notify them of updates. This email is just short excerpt of the first few lines of our latest post with a link if you want to read it all. You can unsubscribe from this this service at any time.
This service is provided by a third party (Feedburner) and you can subscribe to it by leaving your email address in the following field and confirming your subscription when you get an email asking you to do so.
Enter your email address for
Daily Updates:
For those wanting a weekly summary of what happens on this site this free email newsletter is probably your best option. It includes a summary of the tips posted to the site each week. This newsletter is subscribed to by over 25000 readers (many who also subscribe to the other options above) - come join the community!
To subscribe to this weekly newsletter simply add your email address to the following field and then follow the confirmation prompts. You will be able to unsubscribe at any time.
Enter your email address for
Free Weekly Newsletter: