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If you are on a tight budget and still want to try your hand at Macro (1:1 or better)
There are several things you can try. 1 Extention tubes the Kenko or Tamron ones work just fine and are a lot less than Canon. Plus you get a set of 3 Tubes have no glass to affect your IQ but they will reduce the minimum focusing distance allowing you to get closer to your subject. 2. Many macro shooters use the reversed lens option. You will need a reversing ring the same size as your lens filter size. It will screw into the filter ring. There are two types. The first mounts the reversed ring directly to the body. The second reverses a second lens to the front of your primary lens. They some in a variety of sizes and size combinations to match up with an assortment of lenses. Most people use primes ( single focal length lenses) the 50mm 1.8 is one and not usually too expensive. With the reversing option and the tubes as well you will need to focus manually. But most macro shooters always focus manually to get the sharpest images.
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Canon 50D, 70-200 f4L IS, 20-35 f2.8L, 100 F2.8L IS, 300mm F4L IS, 430ex, and assorted gadgets.
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Thank you for the info. I took a look at extension tubes but I didnt really know if they are any good. I am new to this so I dont really understand all those values and definitions, but thats not the case.
Lets say I buy an extension tube, are those any good: Extension set 1 Or should I go for something like those: Kenko Extension set I can see the HUGE price difference, so I am pretty confused Thanks again for the info!
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Software: Adobe Photoshop CS5.5 flickr | facebook Last edited by Kalogerus; 01-01-2010 at 09:02 PM. |
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Yes it is a huge difference. The cheap set dose not have any electronics so could only be used for manual and at that price I fear pretty flimsy. The Kenko should have electronics that will still allow auto focus, though when using all 3 the AF gets sluggish. Resale value on the Kenko is good if you later decide to get rid of them. I use a Kenko set purchased used off the Canon forum POTN ( Canon Digital Photography Forums - Powered by vBulletin ) I think I paid something like $100 for them. You just have to keep watch on the Sell Board and maybe post on the Want board. Another site to find good used equipment is Fred Miranda
( fredmiranda.com: Specialized in Canon - Nikon SLR Cameras, Forum, Photoshop Plugins, Actions, Reviews, Hosting and Digital Darkroom ) Both sites also have good people to talk to regarding equipment and critique. For high quality Macro you really do not need to spend a great deal not untill you are ready to move to a different level. Tubes and reversing rings will take you a long way in the creative process. to help clarify... AF = Auto Focus IQ = image quality 50mm 1.8 is a 50 mm prime lens ( single focal length ) with a max aperture of 2.8. Most people refer to their lens by their Apertures. so a 70-200 F4 has a smaller aperture than a lens that is 2.8 ( yeah weird I know ) Basically the smaller the F # the bigger the opening, the bigger the opening the more light is let in for the exposure. When there is more light you can use a faster shutter speed. Lens with wide apertures such as a 2.8 or 1.4 when used at those " faster settings" give that lovely blurred background you see behind those macro shots of bugs and flowers you see. This is all very simplistic hopefully it will give you some idea as to how it works.
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Canon 50D, 70-200 f4L IS, 20-35 f2.8L, 100 F2.8L IS, 300mm F4L IS, 430ex, and assorted gadgets.
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I forgot what your original question was. Basically any Canon lens will fit an XT ( as well as XTi, XSI, XS, T1i 10 ,20,30,40 and 50D.) But the EF-S lenses that fit these cameras will not fit the upper level Canons.
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Canon 50D, 70-200 f4L IS, 20-35 f2.8L, 100 F2.8L IS, 300mm F4L IS, 430ex, and assorted gadgets.
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The XT can use any Canon lens with a name that starts with EF or EF-S. (Also TS-E and MP-E, but you're unlikely to run into the tilt-shift or 5x macro lens).
You cannot mount EF-S lenses on the 1D, 1Ds or 5D bodies. With Sigma lenses, read "DC" for EF-S. The 28-300 is a DG lens, so it can be used on any Canon digital body. But it's not a true macro lens. Sigma describes its macro capabilities in the specs: Minimum Focusing Distance 50cm/19.7 in. Maximum Magnification 1:3 The closest you can get to anything is half a meter, or a foot and a half. And the maximum magnification you'll get is 1:3. A true macro lens lets you get 1:1 magnification where the image on the sensor is the same size as the object in real life. With 1:3, you can only get a third the size of the object on the sensor. If you really want this lens primarily for close-up macro work, you will want to find a prime lens (one with a fixed focal length) that does 1:1 magnification. This lens is primarily designed to offer the wide-to-telephoto zoom range. Extension tubes are very different from having a true macro lens--they will only allow you to focus at a specific subject distance. So you have much less flexibility in choosing your framing. If you want an inexpensive set with electronic contacts, Adorama offers the Pro Optic set for $85, and a budget plastic mount set for $45.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list Last edited by inkista; 01-01-2010 at 10:29 PM. |
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Ok so let me try this. I got a EF-S 18-55 1:3.5-5.6 IS
What I can understand from that is that my max aperture would be 3.5 at 18mm zoom correct? This means I should probably use a slower shutter speed in order to get a higher IQ. Correct? Also I would like to thank you for the suggestions and the very helpful reply. Grazie
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No. A slower shutter speed won't necessarily get you better image quality--it'll get you more light, and more possibility of motion blur. But you are correct that your maximum aperture @18mm will be f/3.5, and @55mm, it will be f/5.6.
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I shoot with a Canon 5DmkII, 50D, and S90, and Pansonic G3. flickr stream and equipment list |
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